Original Posted By: "McNarry, John"
Just got this post from the rec.aviation.restoration news group andthought this list would be interested based on recent items- - - SNIP - - -Spruce kits We were fortunate recently in obtaining a large quanity of sitkaspruce. We have 25 Years experience suppling quality sitka spruce forultra lights. The Sitka spruce is the highest quality aircraft gradeto be found in the world. All material is milled to your specs. Wehave supplied kits to numerous customers all over the world.Western Aircraft Supplies623 Markerville Rd. S.E.Calgary Alberta, T2E 5X1CanadaBus ph 403-275-3513Res ph 403-276-3087Email wbeck(at)nucleus.com * E-Mail glhuber(at)mail.wiscnet.net Procurement Services Division *________________________________________________________________________________
Pietenpol-List: Sitka Spruce
Pietenpol-List: Re: Sitka Spruce
Original Posted By: Gary Gower
Hi,Being from Calgary, I can vouch for these guys. It's a one man operation located in a small hangar at YYC (Calgary intl.). Gene (I think) is a pretty good guy and the last time I talked to him he had a couple of thousand board feet of S. Spruce. He provides complete wood kits for most popular designs and even builds up spars and the like for certain planes. When I was there last year picking up my spars (that he milled to spec and even put the top and bottom bevels on for me) he was building up a GP-4 spar on his bench for another customer. He's also built a couple of planes which gives him an understanding of what we need. He's opinionated, but definitely knows his stuff.Ken.On Fri, 12 Dec 1997, Gerard "Larry" Huber wrote:> Just got this post from the rec.aviation.restoration news group and> thought this list would be interested based on recent items> > - - - SNIP - - -> > Spruce kits> We were fortunate recently in obtaining a large quanity of sitka> spruce. We have 25 Years experience suppling quality sitka spruce for> ultra lights. The Sitka spruce is the highest quality aircraft grade> to be found in the world. All material is milled to your specs. We> have supplied kits to numerous customers all over the world.> > Western Aircraft Supplies> 623 Markerville Rd. S.E.> Calgary Alberta, T2E 5X1> Canada> > Bus ph 403-275-3513> Res ph 403-276-3087> > Email wbeck(at)nucleus.com________________________________________________________________________________
Hi,Being from Calgary, I can vouch for these guys. It's a one man operation located in a small hangar at YYC (Calgary intl.). Gene (I think) is a pretty good guy and the last time I talked to him he had a couple of thousand board feet of S. Spruce. He provides complete wood kits for most popular designs and even builds up spars and the like for certain planes. When I was there last year picking up my spars (that he milled to spec and even put the top and bottom bevels on for me) he was building up a GP-4 spar on his bench for another customer. He's also built a couple of planes which gives him an understanding of what we need. He's opinionated, but definitely knows his stuff.Ken.On Fri, 12 Dec 1997, Gerard "Larry" Huber wrote:> Just got this post from the rec.aviation.restoration news group and> thought this list would be interested based on recent items> > - - - SNIP - - -> > Spruce kits> We were fortunate recently in obtaining a large quanity of sitka> spruce. We have 25 Years experience suppling quality sitka spruce for> ultra lights. The Sitka spruce is the highest quality aircraft grade> to be found in the world. All material is milled to your specs. We> have supplied kits to numerous customers all over the world.> > Western Aircraft Supplies> 623 Markerville Rd. S.E.> Calgary Alberta, T2E 5X1> Canada> > Bus ph 403-275-3513> Res ph 403-276-3087> > Email wbeck(at)nucleus.com________________________________________________________________________________
Pietenpol-List: Re: Sitka Spruce
Original Posted By:> Ken Beanlands
Pietenpol-List: Re: Sitka Spruce
Original Posted By: Ken Beanlands
________________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
Pietenpol-List: Sitka Spruce
Original Posted By: Warren Shoun
Gentlemen,I recently purchased some rough-cut Sitka spruce from a lumber mill inCanada. It supposedly meets the mil spec (it has beautiful straight grain)but is not yet fully dried. My information says that I should try to get itto 12% moisture content. A couple of the boards are 20' x 8" x 2". Othersare 16' long. I also have some Douglas fur and Alaskan Yellow Cedar.I have carefully stacked them with perfectly aligned 1" "stickers" (spacedevery 24") between the boards. I have two stacks side-by-side. I put somevertical boards along the sides (scrap pine) to keep the good boards fromwarping while they dry. I sealed the ends with paraffin. I bought a Humidifier and a moisture content meter (pinless). I have ahumidity gauge which tells me that the relative humidity in my shop is nowat about 75% (I live in Atlanta, GA). The current moisture content of thewood averages 15 to 17%.I plan to slowly drop the relative humidity (over the next 3 to 4 months) inmy shop to a point that brings the wood down to the 12%. Am I going about this correctly? Does anyone have anysuggestions/experience along these lines?If I am successful, I am open to ideas for an all wood airplane once my SkyScout is finished.I can supply information regarding sources for all of the above if anyone isinterested.Thanks, Distribution Design Specialist * Lucent Technologies, Inc.________________________________________________________________________________
Gentlemen,I recently purchased some rough-cut Sitka spruce from a lumber mill inCanada. It supposedly meets the mil spec (it has beautiful straight grain)but is not yet fully dried. My information says that I should try to get itto 12% moisture content. A couple of the boards are 20' x 8" x 2". Othersare 16' long. I also have some Douglas fur and Alaskan Yellow Cedar.I have carefully stacked them with perfectly aligned 1" "stickers" (spacedevery 24") between the boards. I have two stacks side-by-side. I put somevertical boards along the sides (scrap pine) to keep the good boards fromwarping while they dry. I sealed the ends with paraffin. I bought a Humidifier and a moisture content meter (pinless). I have ahumidity gauge which tells me that the relative humidity in my shop is nowat about 75% (I live in Atlanta, GA). The current moisture content of thewood averages 15 to 17%.I plan to slowly drop the relative humidity (over the next 3 to 4 months) inmy shop to a point that brings the wood down to the 12%. Am I going about this correctly? Does anyone have anysuggestions/experience along these lines?If I am successful, I am open to ideas for an all wood airplane once my SkyScout is finished.I can supply information regarding sources for all of the above if anyone isinterested.Thanks, Distribution Design Specialist * Lucent Technologies, Inc.________________________________________________________________________________
Pietenpol-List: Re: Sitka Spruce
Original Posted By: Michael D Cuy
Hi Russell, I would be interested in all of your information. Sounds like well thoughtout and detailed information. "Good on ya, mate"!Warren"Lassetter, Russell B (Russell)" wrote:> Gentlemen,>> I recently purchased some rough-cut Sitka spruce from a lumber mill in> Canada. It supposedly meets the mil spec (it has beautiful straight grain)> but is not yet fully dried. My information says that I should try to get it> to 12% moisture content. A couple of the boards are 20' x 8" x 2". Others> are 16' long. I also have some Douglas fur and Alaskan Yellow Cedar.>> I have carefully stacked them with perfectly aligned 1" "stickers" (spaced> every 24") between the boards. I have two stacks side-by-side. I put some> vertical boards along the sides (scrap pine) to keep the good boards from> warping while they dry. I sealed the ends with paraffin.>> I bought a Humidifier and a moisture content meter (pinless). I have a> humidity gauge which tells me that the relative humidity in my shop is now> at about 75% (I live in Atlanta, GA). The current moisture content of the> wood averages 15 to 17%.>> I plan to slowly drop the relative humidity (over the next 3 to 4 months) in> my shop to a point that brings the wood down to the 12%.>> Am I going about this correctly? Does anyone have any> suggestions/experience along these lines?>> If I am successful, I am open to ideas for an all wood airplane once my Sky> Scout is finished.>> I can supply information regarding sources for all of the above if anyone is> interested.>> Thanks,>> Distribution Design Specialist> * Lucent Technologies, Inc.________________________________________________________________________________
Hi Russell, I would be interested in all of your information. Sounds like well thoughtout and detailed information. "Good on ya, mate"!Warren"Lassetter, Russell B (Russell)" wrote:> Gentlemen,>> I recently purchased some rough-cut Sitka spruce from a lumber mill in> Canada. It supposedly meets the mil spec (it has beautiful straight grain)> but is not yet fully dried. My information says that I should try to get it> to 12% moisture content. A couple of the boards are 20' x 8" x 2". Others> are 16' long. I also have some Douglas fur and Alaskan Yellow Cedar.>> I have carefully stacked them with perfectly aligned 1" "stickers" (spaced> every 24") between the boards. I have two stacks side-by-side. I put some> vertical boards along the sides (scrap pine) to keep the good boards from> warping while they dry. I sealed the ends with paraffin.>> I bought a Humidifier and a moisture content meter (pinless). I have a> humidity gauge which tells me that the relative humidity in my shop is now> at about 75% (I live in Atlanta, GA). The current moisture content of the> wood averages 15 to 17%.>> I plan to slowly drop the relative humidity (over the next 3 to 4 months) in> my shop to a point that brings the wood down to the 12%.>> Am I going about this correctly? Does anyone have any> suggestions/experience along these lines?>> If I am successful, I am open to ideas for an all wood airplane once my Sky> Scout is finished.>> I can supply information regarding sources for all of the above if anyone is> interested.>> Thanks,>> Distribution Design Specialist> * Lucent Technologies, Inc.________________________________________________________________________________
Pietenpol-List: RE: Sitka Spruce
Original Posted By:> Warren Shoun[SMTP:wbnb(at)earthlink.net]
Warren,Here are the moisture meters URL'shttp://electrophysics.on.ca/ep_home.htmhttp://www.moisturemeter.com/index.htmhttp://w ... mm.htmHere is some info on wood drying.http://infoseek.go.com/?win=_search&sv= ... tings&top= I also found good information in the EAA's book, Building WoodenAircraft which is a compilation of articles from past magazines. Also, "Fine Woodworking" magazine publishes a softcover book titledWood and How to Dry It that is helpful. Email the fellow below (out of Canada) to find out about Sitkaspruce or Douglas fur etc. You can get it rough-cut for around $3.00 to$4.00 per board foot whereas the aircraft supply houses charge around $16.00per board foot. The cost quickly rises though when you add shippingcharges, humidifier, moisture meter and divorce lawyers. Still though I'm thinking way less than half of what the aircraftplaces charge. Also, I'll have to find a way to cut and mill those largepieces. I'm also sure there will be some waste. Hope this helps, [SMTP:tbailey(at)direct.ca]> ----------
Warren,Here are the moisture meters URL'shttp://electrophysics.on.ca/ep_home.htmhttp://www.moisturemeter.com/index.htmhttp://w ... mm.htmHere is some info on wood drying.http://infoseek.go.com/?win=_search&sv= ... tings&top= I also found good information in the EAA's book, Building WoodenAircraft which is a compilation of articles from past magazines. Also, "Fine Woodworking" magazine publishes a softcover book titledWood and How to Dry It that is helpful. Email the fellow below (out of Canada) to find out about Sitkaspruce or Douglas fur etc. You can get it rough-cut for around $3.00 to$4.00 per board foot whereas the aircraft supply houses charge around $16.00per board foot. The cost quickly rises though when you add shippingcharges, humidifier, moisture meter and divorce lawyers. Still though I'm thinking way less than half of what the aircraftplaces charge. Also, I'll have to find a way to cut and mill those largepieces. I'm also sure there will be some waste. Hope this helps, [SMTP:tbailey(at)direct.ca]> ----------
Pietenpol-List: Re: Sitka Spruce
Original Posted By: Lassetter, Russell B (Russell)
Russell:Some thoughts on drying wood.I think you are doing most everything right but your timeline may be tooshort.Conventional wisdom among woodworkers is that it takes 1 year for eachinch of thickness to reduce moisture from a nominal 35% down to around15% which is the about the best you can do un an unheated space.In order to get the wood down to 12% you will probably need to keep thelumber in a heated space for around 6 months. On the other hand, maybe15% is OK for something that will be stored outside or in an unheatedspace.What we are after is stability, we don't want the moisture content tochangetoo much after we build the plane to minimize dimensional changes andinternal stress.You want to have good circulation around the stickered pile, look at theway you have it stacked to make sure you are getting good circulationaround the wet wood.Stack some scrap lumber on top of the pile, the extra weight will helpprevent twisting and warping.Randy Stockberger----- Original Message -----________________________________________________________________________________
Russell:Some thoughts on drying wood.I think you are doing most everything right but your timeline may be tooshort.Conventional wisdom among woodworkers is that it takes 1 year for eachinch of thickness to reduce moisture from a nominal 35% down to around15% which is the about the best you can do un an unheated space.In order to get the wood down to 12% you will probably need to keep thelumber in a heated space for around 6 months. On the other hand, maybe15% is OK for something that will be stored outside or in an unheatedspace.What we are after is stability, we don't want the moisture content tochangetoo much after we build the plane to minimize dimensional changes andinternal stress.You want to have good circulation around the stickered pile, look at theway you have it stacked to make sure you are getting good circulationaround the wet wood.Stack some scrap lumber on top of the pile, the extra weight will helpprevent twisting and warping.Randy Stockberger----- Original Message -----________________________________________________________________________________
Pietenpol-List: Fw: Sitka Spruce
Original Posted By:> Randy Stockberger
for those that wish not to wait for the one or more years for the moisturecontent to fall, a small drying kiln could be constructed. FINE WOODWORKINGhad plans for a small kiln made of plywood, a 100 watt light bulb, a smallfan, and a dehumidifier at one end. the light bulb provided a small amountof heat, which absorbed moisture from the wood, which was condensed at theend with the dehumidifier. it was a very slick outfit, and could dry lumberat a fraction of the time.
for those that wish not to wait for the one or more years for the moisturecontent to fall, a small drying kiln could be constructed. FINE WOODWORKINGhad plans for a small kiln made of plywood, a 100 watt light bulb, a smallfan, and a dehumidifier at one end. the light bulb provided a small amountof heat, which absorbed moisture from the wood, which was condensed at theend with the dehumidifier. it was a very slick outfit, and could dry lumberat a fraction of the time.
Pietenpol-List: Re: Sitka Spruce
Original Posted By: Randy Stockberger
Last year I bought 175 board feet of spruce straight from the mill (at about$100 ). Properly stacked in my basement it got to about 10% moisture inabout 8 months- started at about 17%. I used spray paint rather than parafinon the ends. No losses due to checking, 1 board sorta lost to a split (ribsticks from that one!). All the boards were 16 and 18' 1" and 2" thick.Mike-----Original Message-----
Last year I bought 175 board feet of spruce straight from the mill (at about$100 ). Properly stacked in my basement it got to about 10% moisture inabout 8 months- started at about 17%. I used spray paint rather than parafinon the ends. No losses due to checking, 1 board sorta lost to a split (ribsticks from that one!). All the boards were 16 and 18' 1" and 2" thick.Mike-----Original Message-----
Pietenpol-List: RE: Sitka Spruce
Original Posted By:> CALLAIR(at)cybersol.com[SMTP:CALLAIR(at)cybersol.com]
Randy,Thanks for the info. I should have said that I have a de-humidifier---not ahumidifier.The current moisture content in my wood is 17%. I'm trying to get it downto 12%. That is a difference of 5%. If I drop the moisture content 1/2%per month--that would take 10 months. Does that sound more reasonable?I guess that I may have to add heat at the later stages. My workshop is ina basement that stays a nice even 75 deg. (F) which makes for a pleasentplace to work in the summer time. I'd hate to spoil that.I did put scrap wood (1/2 inch pine) on top of all exposed pieces of "good"wood. I continued with the 1" stickers between the "good" wood and thescrap wood. I hoped this would keep the exposed "faces" of the good woodfrom drying faster than than those deeper in the stack.I thought about the kiln as you mentioned. I may still have to go thatroute but I'm struggling with a 13' airplane. I'm hesitant to take on a 20'kiln.Thanks again,> ----------
Randy,Thanks for the info. I should have said that I have a de-humidifier---not ahumidifier.The current moisture content in my wood is 17%. I'm trying to get it downto 12%. That is a difference of 5%. If I drop the moisture content 1/2%per month--that would take 10 months. Does that sound more reasonable?I guess that I may have to add heat at the later stages. My workshop is ina basement that stays a nice even 75 deg. (F) which makes for a pleasentplace to work in the summer time. I'd hate to spoil that.I did put scrap wood (1/2 inch pine) on top of all exposed pieces of "good"wood. I continued with the 1" stickers between the "good" wood and thescrap wood. I hoped this would keep the exposed "faces" of the good woodfrom drying faster than than those deeper in the stack.I thought about the kiln as you mentioned. I may still have to go thatroute but I'm struggling with a 13' airplane. I'm hesitant to take on a 20'kiln.Thanks again,> ----------
Pietenpol-List: RE: Sitka Spruce
Original Posted By:> CALLAIR(at)cybersol.com[SMTP:CALLAIR(at)cybersol.com]
Do you really think that 12% is reasonable to expect in Atlanta. If you getit dried to 12% and then have it around your shop for awhile, won't it probablywork its way back up to about 15%?? Even after you get it sealed with a twopart epoxy or urethane varnish, it will still probably creep back up. Idon't have a source for this, just comes to mind and is based on a lot of yearsof sporadic reading about wood. Should my above supposition be reasonable,wouldn't it be better to aim for 15% and use your wood six months sooner?Conjecturely yours,Mike BellColumbia,SCAt least as humid as AtlantaMaiser(at)adena.byu.edu on 08/06/99 07:50:33 AMPlease respond to piet(at)byu.edu @ INTERNETcc:Subject: Pietenpol-List: RE: Sitka SpruceRandy,Thanks for the info. I should have said that I have a de-humidifier---not ahumidifier.The current moisture content in my wood is 17%. I'm trying to get it downto 12%. That is a difference of 5%. If I drop the moisture content 1/2%per month--that would take 10 months. Does that sound more reasonable?I guess that I may have to add heat at the later stages. My workshop is ina basement that stays a nice even 75 deg. (F) which makes for a pleasentplace to work in the summer time. I'd hate to spoil that.I did put scrap wood (1/2 inch pine) on top of all exposed pieces of "good"wood. I continued with the 1" stickers between the "good" wood and thescrap wood. I hoped this would keep the exposed "faces" of the good woodfrom drying faster than than those deeper in the stack.I thought about the kiln as you mentioned. I may still have to go thatroute but I'm struggling with a 13' airplane. I'm hesitant to take on a 20'kiln.Thanks again,> ----------
Do you really think that 12% is reasonable to expect in Atlanta. If you getit dried to 12% and then have it around your shop for awhile, won't it probablywork its way back up to about 15%?? Even after you get it sealed with a twopart epoxy or urethane varnish, it will still probably creep back up. Idon't have a source for this, just comes to mind and is based on a lot of yearsof sporadic reading about wood. Should my above supposition be reasonable,wouldn't it be better to aim for 15% and use your wood six months sooner?Conjecturely yours,Mike BellColumbia,SCAt least as humid as AtlantaMaiser(at)adena.byu.edu on 08/06/99 07:50:33 AMPlease respond to piet(at)byu.edu @ INTERNETcc:Subject: Pietenpol-List: RE: Sitka SpruceRandy,Thanks for the info. I should have said that I have a de-humidifier---not ahumidifier.The current moisture content in my wood is 17%. I'm trying to get it downto 12%. That is a difference of 5%. If I drop the moisture content 1/2%per month--that would take 10 months. Does that sound more reasonable?I guess that I may have to add heat at the later stages. My workshop is ina basement that stays a nice even 75 deg. (F) which makes for a pleasentplace to work in the summer time. I'd hate to spoil that.I did put scrap wood (1/2 inch pine) on top of all exposed pieces of "good"wood. I continued with the 1" stickers between the "good" wood and thescrap wood. I hoped this would keep the exposed "faces" of the good woodfrom drying faster than than those deeper in the stack.I thought about the kiln as you mentioned. I may still have to go thatroute but I'm struggling with a 13' airplane. I'm hesitant to take on a 20'kiln.Thanks again,> ----------
Pietenpol-List: RE: Sitka Spruce
Original Posted By:>
Mike,I tend to agree with you. Maybe I was under the false impression thatmoisture content had a direct correlation to strength. I am sure that thereis a correlation, but maybe the difference is minimal between 12 and 15%.I thought that I would try to keep the relative humidity in my shop at thesame percentage that is required to get the wood to it's final equalibrium(12% for example). Then I would varnish before rolling the airplane outinto the Georgia humidity.I guess you are saying that the wood would eventually creep back up toaround 15% which would be its more natural equilibrium state in a humidclimate. This would cause expansion of the wood which may cause glue jointsto fail-- a very unsettling thought.Then is it fair to say that the final moisture content of wood should betargeted for a percentage (15%) that can be maintained by your localconditions.Thanks,> ----------
Mike,I tend to agree with you. Maybe I was under the false impression thatmoisture content had a direct correlation to strength. I am sure that thereis a correlation, but maybe the difference is minimal between 12 and 15%.I thought that I would try to keep the relative humidity in my shop at thesame percentage that is required to get the wood to it's final equalibrium(12% for example). Then I would varnish before rolling the airplane outinto the Georgia humidity.I guess you are saying that the wood would eventually creep back up toaround 15% which would be its more natural equilibrium state in a humidclimate. This would cause expansion of the wood which may cause glue jointsto fail-- a very unsettling thought.Then is it fair to say that the final moisture content of wood should betargeted for a percentage (15%) that can be maintained by your localconditions.Thanks,> ----------
Pietenpol-List: RE: Sitka Spruce
Original Posted By:> Lassetter, Russell B (Russell)
As an afterthought. I think that I recently read that propeller makers tryto get their wood to 8% moisture content. The reason was stated that apropeller is susceptible to balance problems associated with excessmoisture.Regardless, how do they keep this low moisture content.> ----------
As an afterthought. I think that I recently read that propeller makers tryto get their wood to 8% moisture content. The reason was stated that apropeller is susceptible to balance problems associated with excessmoisture.Regardless, how do they keep this low moisture content.> ----------
Pietenpol-List: Sitka Spruce
Original Posted By: "Glenn Thomas"
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Sitka SpruceAbout a year ago I bought Sitka from McCormack and I also paid about $4.50 a foot, maybe a dime or two more -- excellent lumber and although I was a novice, it was easy to pick out the good knot-free, straight grained, correct rings-per-inch stuff. I think a person would have to be pretty sloppy to not recognize inferior wood. Anyway, I hope that they continue to carry the Sitka asI will need to make another trip to get stock for the wing spars. They also carryWest System epoxy, although I've found that here in La Crosse at Powerhouse Marine. I'm only a two-hour drive from Madison and it's a nice drive on a niceday -- I like to take old Highway 14 instead of I-90 -- it's kind of the equivalent of flying a Piet versus some 200 mph skyrocket. The older I get theslower I like to go in order to enjoy the scenery...and much less stressful. By the way, somebody mentioned shoulder harness pics the other day -- how do I access those pics? Fred B.La Crosse, WI________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Sitka SpruceAbout a year ago I bought Sitka from McCormack and I also paid about $4.50 a foot, maybe a dime or two more -- excellent lumber and although I was a novice, it was easy to pick out the good knot-free, straight grained, correct rings-per-inch stuff. I think a person would have to be pretty sloppy to not recognize inferior wood. Anyway, I hope that they continue to carry the Sitka asI will need to make another trip to get stock for the wing spars. They also carryWest System epoxy, although I've found that here in La Crosse at Powerhouse Marine. I'm only a two-hour drive from Madison and it's a nice drive on a niceday -- I like to take old Highway 14 instead of I-90 -- it's kind of the equivalent of flying a Piet versus some 200 mph skyrocket. The older I get theslower I like to go in order to enjoy the scenery...and much less stressful. By the way, somebody mentioned shoulder harness pics the other day -- how do I access those pics? Fred B.La Crosse, WI________________________________________________________________________________
> Re: Sitka Spruce
Original Posted By: GMalley
> > Hi,> > Being from Calgary, I can vouch for these guys. It's a one man operation > located in a small hangar at YYC (Calgary intl.). Gene (I think) is a > pretty good guy and the last time I talked to him he had a couple of > thousand board feet of S. Spruce. He provides complete wood kits for most> popular designs and even builds up spars and the like for certain planes.> When I was there last year picking up my spars (that he milled to spec > and even put the top and bottom bevels on for me) he was building up a > GP-4 spar on his bench for another customer. He's also built a couple of > planes which gives him an understanding of what we need. He's > opinionated, but definitely knows his stuff.> > Ken.> > On Fri, 12 Dec 1997, Gerard "Larry" Huber wrote:> > > Just got this post from the rec.aviation.restoration news group and> > thought this list would be interested based on recent items> > > > - - - SNIP - - -> > > > Spruce kits> > We were fortunate recently in obtaining a large quanity of sitka> > spruce. We have 25 Years experience suppling quality sitka spruce for> > ultra lights. The Sitka spruce is the highest quality aircraft grade> > to be found in the world. All material is milled to your specs. We> > have supplied kits to numerous customers all over the world.> > > > Western Aircraft Supplies> > 623 Markerville Rd. S.E.> > Calgary Alberta, T2E 5X1> > Canada> > > > Bus ph 403-275-3513> > Res ph 403-276-3087> > > > Email wbeck(at)nucleus.com> > -----------I also purchased my spar material from Western Aircraft Suppliesand am happy with the quality,he also carries an epoxy that is nearlyodourless,though is slow to set,but very strong.---Doug Hunt..________________________________________________________________________________
> > Hi,> > Being from Calgary, I can vouch for these guys. It's a one man operation > located in a small hangar at YYC (Calgary intl.). Gene (I think) is a > pretty good guy and the last time I talked to him he had a couple of > thousand board feet of S. Spruce. He provides complete wood kits for most> popular designs and even builds up spars and the like for certain planes.> When I was there last year picking up my spars (that he milled to spec > and even put the top and bottom bevels on for me) he was building up a > GP-4 spar on his bench for another customer. He's also built a couple of > planes which gives him an understanding of what we need. He's > opinionated, but definitely knows his stuff.> > Ken.> > On Fri, 12 Dec 1997, Gerard "Larry" Huber wrote:> > > Just got this post from the rec.aviation.restoration news group and> > thought this list would be interested based on recent items> > > > - - - SNIP - - -> > > > Spruce kits> > We were fortunate recently in obtaining a large quanity of sitka> > spruce. We have 25 Years experience suppling quality sitka spruce for> > ultra lights. The Sitka spruce is the highest quality aircraft grade> > to be found in the world. All material is milled to your specs. We> > have supplied kits to numerous customers all over the world.> > > > Western Aircraft Supplies> > 623 Markerville Rd. S.E.> > Calgary Alberta, T2E 5X1> > Canada> > > > Bus ph 403-275-3513> > Res ph 403-276-3087> > > > Email wbeck(at)nucleus.com> > -----------I also purchased my spar material from Western Aircraft Suppliesand am happy with the quality,he also carries an epoxy that is nearlyodourless,though is slow to set,but very strong.---Doug Hunt..________________________________________________________________________________
> Re: Sitka Spruce
Original Posted By:> Lassetter, Russell B (Russell)
> > Russell:> > Some thoughts on drying wood.> > I think you are doing most everything right but your timeline may be too> short.> > Conventional wisdom among woodworkers is that it takes 1 year for each> inch of thickness to reduce moisture from a nominal 35% down to around> 15% which is the about the best you can do un an unheated space.> > In order to get the wood down to 12% you will probably need to keep the> lumber in a heated space for around 6 months. On the other hand, maybe> 15% is OK for something that will be stored outside or in an unheated> space.> What we are after is stability, we don't want the moisture content to> change> too much after we build the plane to minimize dimensional changes and> internal stress.> > You want to have good circulation around the stickered pile, look at the> way you have it stacked to make sure you are getting good circulation> around the wet wood.> > Stack some scrap lumber on top of the pile, the extra weight will help> prevent twisting and warping.> > Randy Stockberger> > ----- Original Message -----
> > Russell:> > Some thoughts on drying wood.> > I think you are doing most everything right but your timeline may be too> short.> > Conventional wisdom among woodworkers is that it takes 1 year for each> inch of thickness to reduce moisture from a nominal 35% down to around> 15% which is the about the best you can do un an unheated space.> > In order to get the wood down to 12% you will probably need to keep the> lumber in a heated space for around 6 months. On the other hand, maybe> 15% is OK for something that will be stored outside or in an unheated> space.> What we are after is stability, we don't want the moisture content to> change> too much after we build the plane to minimize dimensional changes and> internal stress.> > You want to have good circulation around the stickered pile, look at the> way you have it stacked to make sure you are getting good circulation> around the wet wood.> > Stack some scrap lumber on top of the pile, the extra weight will help> prevent twisting and warping.> > Randy Stockberger> > ----- Original Message -----
> > Re: Sitka Spruce
Original Posted By:> > Lassetter, Russell B (Russell)
> > > > Russell:> > > > Some thoughts on drying wood.> > > > I think you are doing most everything right but your timeline may be too> > short.> > > > Conventional wisdom among woodworkers is that it takes 1 year for each> > inch of thickness to reduce moisture from a nominal 35% down to around> > 15% which is the about the best you can do un an unheated space.> > > > In order to get the wood down to 12% you will probably need to keep the> > lumber in a heated space for around 6 months. On the other hand, maybe> > 15% is OK for something that will be stored outside or in an unheated> > space.> > What we are after is stability, we don't want the moisture content to> > change> > too much after we build the plane to minimize dimensional changes and> > internal stress.> > > > You want to have good circulation around the stickered pile, look at the> > way you have it stacked to make sure you are getting good circulation> > around the wet wood.> > > > Stack some scrap lumber on top of the pile, the extra weight will help> > prevent twisting and warping.> > > > Randy Stockberger> > > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > > Russell:> > > > Some thoughts on drying wood.> > > > I think you are doing most everything right but your timeline may be too> > short.> > > > Conventional wisdom among woodworkers is that it takes 1 year for each> > inch of thickness to reduce moisture from a nominal 35% down to around> > 15% which is the about the best you can do un an unheated space.> > > > In order to get the wood down to 12% you will probably need to keep the> > lumber in a heated space for around 6 months. On the other hand, maybe> > 15% is OK for something that will be stored outside or in an unheated> > space.> > What we are after is stability, we don't want the moisture content to> > change> > too much after we build the plane to minimize dimensional changes and> > internal stress.> > > > You want to have good circulation around the stickered pile, look at the> > way you have it stacked to make sure you are getting good circulation> > around the wet wood.> > > > Stack some scrap lumber on top of the pile, the extra weight will help> > prevent twisting and warping.> > > > Randy Stockberger> > > > ----- Original Message -----
> > Re: Sitka Spruce
Original Posted By:> > Lassetter, Russell B (Russell)
> >> > Russell:> >> > Some thoughts on drying wood.> >> > I think you are doing most everything right but your timeline may be too> > short.> >> > Conventional wisdom among woodworkers is that it takes 1 year for each> > inch of thickness to reduce moisture from a nominal 35% down to around> > 15% which is the about the best you can do un an unheated space.> >> > In order to get the wood down to 12% you will probably need to keep the> > lumber in a heated space for around 6 months. On the other hand, maybe> > 15% is OK for something that will be stored outside or in an unheated> > space.> > What we are after is stability, we don't want the moisture content to> > change> > too much after we build the plane to minimize dimensional changes and> > internal stress.> >> > You want to have good circulation around the stickered pile, look at the> > way you have it stacked to make sure you are getting good circulation> > around the wet wood.> >> > Stack some scrap lumber on top of the pile, the extra weight will help> > prevent twisting and warping.> >> > Randy Stockberger> >> > ----- Original Message -----
> >> > Russell:> >> > Some thoughts on drying wood.> >> > I think you are doing most everything right but your timeline may be too> > short.> >> > Conventional wisdom among woodworkers is that it takes 1 year for each> > inch of thickness to reduce moisture from a nominal 35% down to around> > 15% which is the about the best you can do un an unheated space.> >> > In order to get the wood down to 12% you will probably need to keep the> > lumber in a heated space for around 6 months. On the other hand, maybe> > 15% is OK for something that will be stored outside or in an unheated> > space.> > What we are after is stability, we don't want the moisture content to> > change> > too much after we build the plane to minimize dimensional changes and> > internal stress.> >> > You want to have good circulation around the stickered pile, look at the> > way you have it stacked to make sure you are getting good circulation> > around the wet wood.> >> > Stack some scrap lumber on top of the pile, the extra weight will help> > prevent twisting and warping.> >> > Randy Stockberger> >> > ----- Original Message -----
> > > Re: Sitka Spruce
Original Posted By:> > > Lassetter, Russell B (Russell)
> > >> > > Russell:> > >> > > Some thoughts on drying wood.> > >> > > I think you are doing most everything right but your timeline may be> too> > > short.> > >> > > Conventional wisdom among woodworkers is that it takes 1 year for each> > > inch of thickness to reduce moisture from a nominal 35% down to around> > > 15% which is the about the best you can do un an unheated space.> > >> > > In order to get the wood down to 12% you will probably need to keep> the> > > lumber in a heated space for around 6 months. On the other hand,> maybe> > > 15% is OK for something that will be stored outside or in an unheated> > > space.> > > What we are after is stability, we don't want the moisture content to> > > change> > > too much after we build the plane to minimize dimensional changes and> > > internal stress.> > >> > > You want to have good circulation around the stickered pile, look at> the> > > way you have it stacked to make sure you are getting good circulation> > > around the wet wood.> > >> > > Stack some scrap lumber on top of the pile, the extra weight will help> > > prevent twisting and warping.> > >> > > Randy Stockberger> > >> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > >> > > Russell:> > >> > > Some thoughts on drying wood.> > >> > > I think you are doing most everything right but your timeline may be> too> > > short.> > >> > > Conventional wisdom among woodworkers is that it takes 1 year for each> > > inch of thickness to reduce moisture from a nominal 35% down to around> > > 15% which is the about the best you can do un an unheated space.> > >> > > In order to get the wood down to 12% you will probably need to keep> the> > > lumber in a heated space for around 6 months. On the other hand,> maybe> > > 15% is OK for something that will be stored outside or in an unheated> > > space.> > > What we are after is stability, we don't want the moisture content to> > > change> > > too much after we build the plane to minimize dimensional changes and> > > internal stress.> > >> > > You want to have good circulation around the stickered pile, look at> the> > > way you have it stacked to make sure you are getting good circulation> > > around the wet wood.> > >> > > Stack some scrap lumber on top of the pile, the extra weight will help> > > prevent twisting and warping.> > >> > > Randy Stockberger> > >> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > > Re: Sitka Spruce
Original Posted By:> > > > Lassetter, Russell B (Russell)
> > > >> > > > Russell:> > > >> > > > Some thoughts on drying wood.> > > >> > > > I think you are doing most everything right but your timeline may be> > too> > > > short.> > > >> > > > Conventional wisdom among woodworkers is that it takes 1 year for> each> > > > inch of thickness to reduce moisture from a nominal 35% down to> around> > > > 15% which is the about the best you can do un an unheated space.> > > >> > > > In order to get the wood down to 12% you will probably need to keep> > the> > > > lumber in a heated space for around 6 months. On the other hand,> > maybe> > > > 15% is OK for something that will be stored outside or in an> unheated> > > > space.> > > > What we are after is stability, we don't want the moisture content> to> > > > change> > > > too much after we build the plane to minimize dimensional changes> and> > > > internal stress.> > > >> > > > You want to have good circulation around the stickered pile, look at> > the> > > > way you have it stacked to make sure you are getting good> circulation> > > > around the wet wood.> > > >> > > > Stack some scrap lumber on top of the pile, the extra weight will> help> > > > prevent twisting and warping.> > > >> > > > Randy Stockberger> > > >> > > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > >> > > > Russell:> > > >> > > > Some thoughts on drying wood.> > > >> > > > I think you are doing most everything right but your timeline may be> > too> > > > short.> > > >> > > > Conventional wisdom among woodworkers is that it takes 1 year for> each> > > > inch of thickness to reduce moisture from a nominal 35% down to> around> > > > 15% which is the about the best you can do un an unheated space.> > > >> > > > In order to get the wood down to 12% you will probably need to keep> > the> > > > lumber in a heated space for around 6 months. On the other hand,> > maybe> > > > 15% is OK for something that will be stored outside or in an> unheated> > > > space.> > > > What we are after is stability, we don't want the moisture content> to> > > > change> > > > too much after we build the plane to minimize dimensional changes> and> > > > internal stress.> > > >> > > > You want to have good circulation around the stickered pile, look at> > the> > > > way you have it stacked to make sure you are getting good> circulation> > > > around the wet wood.> > > >> > > > Stack some scrap lumber on top of the pile, the extra weight will> help> > > > prevent twisting and warping.> > > >> > > > Randy Stockberger> > > >> > > > ----- Original Message -----