Original Posted By: del magsam
Kip or anyone, I hear that the glues in plywood are rough on saw blades, and thatyou should have a separate blade for plywood.Kent________________________________________________________________________________Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 08:19:43 -0800 (PST)
Pietenpol-List: Blades, sears
Re: Pietenpol-List: Blades, sears
Original Posted By: Gary Gower
Re: Pietenpol-List: Blades, sears
Original Posted By: "John Dilatush"
I agree. I have hollow ground blades for my table saw but I endup using my narrow-kerf carbide blades for just about everything.They are only about .080" thick. Standard blades are about .125".If you aren't cutting real thick wood (need the full height of the blade) use blade stabilizers and you'll get a smoother cut, especially for the narrow blades. They cut down on the vibations. They are just very large heavy cupped washers that go on each side of the blade. I recommend an 80 toothed blade for almost all cuts but ripping. A 40T or 60T might be better.Wood working is one of my hobbies. Someday I'll get good at it.George AllenHarrisburg, PAGeorgeA(at)PAonline.com(wait'n for wood Peit'. builder)----- Original Message ----- > this is true with steel blades, but carbide is not a> problem. to comment on why good carbide blades work> good is this. to get a saw blade to work well you have> to have each tooth in the blade follow each other> within .002. carbide blades and hollow ground steel> blades are the only way to achieve this, you cannot> achieve this accuracy with any blade with a "set"> (teeth that are bent to get side clearance) and this> is why you want a good tablesaw. you need one that the> arbor runs true. if you have this combination you will> not see any saw marks in your cut. I sell and sharpen> carbide blades to commercial shops for a living.> Del________________________________________________________________________________
I agree. I have hollow ground blades for my table saw but I endup using my narrow-kerf carbide blades for just about everything.They are only about .080" thick. Standard blades are about .125".If you aren't cutting real thick wood (need the full height of the blade) use blade stabilizers and you'll get a smoother cut, especially for the narrow blades. They cut down on the vibations. They are just very large heavy cupped washers that go on each side of the blade. I recommend an 80 toothed blade for almost all cuts but ripping. A 40T or 60T might be better.Wood working is one of my hobbies. Someday I'll get good at it.George AllenHarrisburg, PAGeorgeA(at)PAonline.com(wait'n for wood Peit'. builder)----- Original Message ----- > this is true with steel blades, but carbide is not a> problem. to comment on why good carbide blades work> good is this. to get a saw blade to work well you have> to have each tooth in the blade follow each other> within .002. carbide blades and hollow ground steel> blades are the only way to achieve this, you cannot> achieve this accuracy with any blade with a "set"> (teeth that are bent to get side clearance) and this> is why you want a good tablesaw. you need one that the> arbor runs true. if you have this combination you will> not see any saw marks in your cut. I sell and sharpen> carbide blades to commercial shops for a living.> Del________________________________________________________________________________