Original Posted By: catdesigns(at)juno.com
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Painting Metal
Pietenpol-List: Painting Metal
Re: Pietenpol-List: Spruce sources
Original Posted By: "DJ Vegh"
Larry If you are willing to take a chance I found this one, No experience with them. They have a priclist with 4/4 and 8/4 rough cut Sticka Spruce also.Matt http://www.publiclumber.com/1x9sitkaspruce.html Larry Ragan writes: > > > Anyone else besides ASS and Wicks sell aircraft spruce? > > > Larry Ragan > Jacksonville, Fl. > lragan(at)hotmail.com > > MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: Click Here > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Larry If you are willing to take a chance I found this one, No experience with them. They have a priclist with 4/4 and 8/4 rough cut Sticka Spruce also.Matt http://www.publiclumber.com/1x9sitkaspruce.html Larry Ragan writes: > > > Anyone else besides ASS and Wicks sell aircraft spruce? > > > Larry Ragan > Jacksonville, Fl. > lragan(at)hotmail.com > > MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: Click Here > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Re: Pietenpol-List: Painting Metal
Original Posted By: catdesigns(at)juno.com
I have powdercoated most of my fittings. will preserve the metal long after Ileave this world!DJwww.raptoronline.com ----- Original Message -----
I have powdercoated most of my fittings. will preserve the metal long after Ileave this world!DJwww.raptoronline.com ----- Original Message -----
Pietenpol-List: Painting Metal
Original Posted By: Kip & Beth Gardner
RE: Pietenpol-List: Painting Metal
Original Posted By: kirk
Chris, I beadblasted all my steel parts, whether welded or not, beforepriming with epoxy primer. You probably would not be happy with the resultsif you just painted directly over the black finish of chromoly tubing -there is an oil on the surface that will prevent good paint adhesion. Forwhat it's worth, zinc chromate is not a bad primer for aluminum, but isn'tvery good on steel. The best primer I have found is PolyFiber's epoxyprimer, I used Randolph Epibond on the first few parts I did but have foundit to be totally unsatisfactory - it can be scraped off with very littleeffort. The PolyFiber primer is hard as nails once cured. In fact, once itis cured the only way to get it off is by beadblasting.Most aircraft maintenance shops have a beadblast cabinet stuck somewhere inthe back of a hangar. I'm sure if you asked they would let you use it. Itreally does a nice job of cleaning scale off welds, and genrally gives steela nice burnished satin look that provides good "tooth" for the primer toadhere to. The PolyFiber epoxy primer is very expensive, but what's a fewdollars to protect all the work you've put into this project? I guarenteeyou will like it (other than the price).Jack -----Original Message-----Question for all you metal painting expert, informed, opinionated, orhelpful people. What do I need to do to my metal welded fittings, let ususe the torque tube as an example, before I spray it with some zinc chromateprimer? Do I need to sand every inch of the part that is to be primed to ashinny chrome like appearance then spray on the primer or can I hit it witha wire brush and spray. What about the flaky stuff (scale?) left over afterwelding that will not sand off? Do I grind it off then sand then paint? DoI need to use some kind of metal prep solution like an etching solutionbefore priming? Can I just wipe it down with acetone or paint thinner andprime it? Can you paint over the black stuff on the outside of 4130 tubingor does it need to be removed first? Lets say I have developed a little bitof red-rust in the weld area between the tubing and the control horn. Whatdo I need to this area before spraying on the primer?ThanksChrisSacramento, CA________________________________________________________________________________Date: Wed, 18 Sep 2002 07:34:54 -0500
Chris, I beadblasted all my steel parts, whether welded or not, beforepriming with epoxy primer. You probably would not be happy with the resultsif you just painted directly over the black finish of chromoly tubing -there is an oil on the surface that will prevent good paint adhesion. Forwhat it's worth, zinc chromate is not a bad primer for aluminum, but isn'tvery good on steel. The best primer I have found is PolyFiber's epoxyprimer, I used Randolph Epibond on the first few parts I did but have foundit to be totally unsatisfactory - it can be scraped off with very littleeffort. The PolyFiber primer is hard as nails once cured. In fact, once itis cured the only way to get it off is by beadblasting.Most aircraft maintenance shops have a beadblast cabinet stuck somewhere inthe back of a hangar. I'm sure if you asked they would let you use it. Itreally does a nice job of cleaning scale off welds, and genrally gives steela nice burnished satin look that provides good "tooth" for the primer toadhere to. The PolyFiber epoxy primer is very expensive, but what's a fewdollars to protect all the work you've put into this project? I guarenteeyou will like it (other than the price).Jack -----Original Message-----Question for all you metal painting expert, informed, opinionated, orhelpful people. What do I need to do to my metal welded fittings, let ususe the torque tube as an example, before I spray it with some zinc chromateprimer? Do I need to sand every inch of the part that is to be primed to ashinny chrome like appearance then spray on the primer or can I hit it witha wire brush and spray. What about the flaky stuff (scale?) left over afterwelding that will not sand off? Do I grind it off then sand then paint? DoI need to use some kind of metal prep solution like an etching solutionbefore priming? Can I just wipe it down with acetone or paint thinner andprime it? Can you paint over the black stuff on the outside of 4130 tubingor does it need to be removed first? Lets say I have developed a little bitof red-rust in the weld area between the tubing and the control horn. Whatdo I need to this area before spraying on the primer?ThanksChrisSacramento, CA________________________________________________________________________________Date: Wed, 18 Sep 2002 07:34:54 -0500
RE: Pietenpol-List: Painting Metal
Original Posted By: "Oscar Zuniga"
Chris, I beadblasted all my steel parts, whether welded or not, beforepriming with epoxy primer. You probably would not be happy with the resultsif you just painted directly over the black finish of chromoly tubing -there is an oil on the surface that will prevent good paint adhesion. Forwhat it's worth, zinc chromate is not a bad primer for aluminum, but isn'tvery good on steel. The best primer I have found is PolyFiber's epoxyprimer, I used Randolph Epibond on the first few parts I did but have foundit to be totally unsatisfactory - it can be scraped off with very littleeffort. The PolyFiber primer is hard as nails once cured. In fact, once itis cured the only way to get it off is by beadblasting.Most aircraft maintenance shops have a beadblast cabinet stuck somewhere inthe back of a hangar. I'm sure if you asked they would let you use it. Itreally does a nice job of cleaning scale off welds, and genrally gives steela nice burnished satin look that provides good "tooth" for the primer toadhere to. The PolyFiber epoxy primer is very expensive, but what's a fewdollars to protect all the work you've put into this project? I guarenteeyou will like it (other than the price).Jack -----Original Message-----Question for all you metal painting expert, informed, opinionated, orhelpful people. What do I need to do to my metal welded fittings, let ususe the torque tube as an example, before I spray it with some zinc chromateprimer? Do I need to sand every inch of the part that is to be primed to ashinny chrome like appearance then spray on the primer or can I hit it witha wire brush and spray. What about the flaky stuff (scale?) left over afterwelding that will not sand off? Do I grind it off then sand then paint? DoI need to use some kind of metal prep solution like an etching solutionbefore priming? Can I just wipe it down with acetone or paint thinner andprime it? Can you paint over the black stuff on the outside of 4130 tubingor does it need to be removed first? Lets say I have developed a little bitof red-rust in the weld area between the tubing and the control horn. Whatdo I need to this area before spraying on the primer?ThanksChrisSacramento, CA________________________________________________________________________________
Chris, I beadblasted all my steel parts, whether welded or not, beforepriming with epoxy primer. You probably would not be happy with the resultsif you just painted directly over the black finish of chromoly tubing -there is an oil on the surface that will prevent good paint adhesion. Forwhat it's worth, zinc chromate is not a bad primer for aluminum, but isn'tvery good on steel. The best primer I have found is PolyFiber's epoxyprimer, I used Randolph Epibond on the first few parts I did but have foundit to be totally unsatisfactory - it can be scraped off with very littleeffort. The PolyFiber primer is hard as nails once cured. In fact, once itis cured the only way to get it off is by beadblasting.Most aircraft maintenance shops have a beadblast cabinet stuck somewhere inthe back of a hangar. I'm sure if you asked they would let you use it. Itreally does a nice job of cleaning scale off welds, and genrally gives steela nice burnished satin look that provides good "tooth" for the primer toadhere to. The PolyFiber epoxy primer is very expensive, but what's a fewdollars to protect all the work you've put into this project? I guarenteeyou will like it (other than the price).Jack -----Original Message-----Question for all you metal painting expert, informed, opinionated, orhelpful people. What do I need to do to my metal welded fittings, let ususe the torque tube as an example, before I spray it with some zinc chromateprimer? Do I need to sand every inch of the part that is to be primed to ashinny chrome like appearance then spray on the primer or can I hit it witha wire brush and spray. What about the flaky stuff (scale?) left over afterwelding that will not sand off? Do I grind it off then sand then paint? DoI need to use some kind of metal prep solution like an etching solutionbefore priming? Can I just wipe it down with acetone or paint thinner andprime it? Can you paint over the black stuff on the outside of 4130 tubingor does it need to be removed first? Lets say I have developed a little bitof red-rust in the weld area between the tubing and the control horn. Whatdo I need to this area before spraying on the primer?ThanksChrisSacramento, CA________________________________________________________________________________
Re:RE: Pietenpol-List: Painting Metal
Original Posted By: catdesigns(at)juno.com
Subject: Re:RE: Pietenpol-List: Painting Metal
Subject: Re:RE: Pietenpol-List: Painting Metal
RE: RE: Pietenpol-List: Painting Metal
Original Posted By: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
Chris, I used glass beads. They don't scratch like sand, but I will have touse sand on the large parts (like the lift struts) since I can't fit theminto a beadblast cabinet and the glass beads are too expensive to let runout on the grass. In a cabinet they are recycled so the cost is negligible.Jack -----Original Message-----
Chris, I used glass beads. They don't scratch like sand, but I will have touse sand on the large parts (like the lift struts) since I can't fit theminto a beadblast cabinet and the glass beads are too expensive to let runout on the grass. In a cabinet they are recycled so the cost is negligible.Jack -----Original Message-----