Original Posted By: Mary & Paul Winkworth
01/09/2003 08:27:45 AMAll you continental guys (Mike C., Walt , etc...) how many of you guysoverhauled your own engine? How difficult was it? I have a friend who saysit is not bad and is willing to sign off my work to make it a legalcertified engine. But although I have done some engine work on my antiquetruck, I am not a pro, and I don't wish to bite off more than I can chew.Thanks for any input.John DupreyIn Wintery Massachusetts________________________________________________________________________________Date: Thu, 09 Jan 2003 08:56:07 -0500
Pietenpol-List: Continental 65
Re: Pietenpol-List: Continental 65
Original Posted By:
John,I read Mike Cuy's response, and it's good advice. Only difference with mineis that I got lucky and got an engine that was rumored to have only 800hours on it since overhaul. so I took a chance and luckily my AP gave it avisual and confirmed it ( after teardown) He felt the side play on the rodbearings and advised not to split the case, so I didn't. All else was inspec, except one valve shank.So it wound up costing me the price of a manual ( a must)ringsgasket setsome different length pushrods and my own laborNot to mention a second teardown to redo the valves. Only laped them in butthey didn't seal right. But that was only my own free labor.The pushrods above were for a spec on the engine that apparently isoverlooked by many. I had never heard of the concept till my AP filled mein. This is a must if you redo the valves.Here it is,,,the hydraulic lifter has a certain working range, and you mustrun in that range or the engine will be "weak"The spec is in the manual, and you correct each one that isn't right byreplacing that pushrod. You can get different lengths from Fresno parts.My advice on doing it yourself is that if you have the interest to do it,it's not a hard engine to do. But like anything else, if you don't reallyhave it in you, then let someone else do it.walt evans----- Original Message -----
John,I read Mike Cuy's response, and it's good advice. Only difference with mineis that I got lucky and got an engine that was rumored to have only 800hours on it since overhaul. so I took a chance and luckily my AP gave it avisual and confirmed it ( after teardown) He felt the side play on the rodbearings and advised not to split the case, so I didn't. All else was inspec, except one valve shank.So it wound up costing me the price of a manual ( a must)ringsgasket setsome different length pushrods and my own laborNot to mention a second teardown to redo the valves. Only laped them in butthey didn't seal right. But that was only my own free labor.The pushrods above were for a spec on the engine that apparently isoverlooked by many. I had never heard of the concept till my AP filled mein. This is a must if you redo the valves.Here it is,,,the hydraulic lifter has a certain working range, and you mustrun in that range or the engine will be "weak"The spec is in the manual, and you correct each one that isn't right byreplacing that pushrod. You can get different lengths from Fresno parts.My advice on doing it yourself is that if you have the interest to do it,it's not a hard engine to do. But like anything else, if you don't reallyhave it in you, then let someone else do it.walt evans----- Original Message -----
Re: Pietenpol-List: Continental 65
Original Posted By:
01/09/2003 03:27:44 PMThanks Mike and Walt good advice, I will get a manaul and dig in...John"walter evans" (at)matronics.com on 01/09/200303:01:35 PMPlease respond to pietenpol-list(at)matronics.comSent by: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.comcc:Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Continental 65John,I read Mike Cuy's response, and it's good advice. Only difference withmineis that I got lucky and got an engine that was rumored to have only 800hours on it since overhaul. so I took a chance and luckily my AP gave it avisual and confirmed it ( after teardown) He felt the side play on the rodbearings and advised not to split the case, so I didn't. All else was inspec, except one valve shank.So it wound up costing me the price of a manual ( a must)ringsgasket setsome different length pushrods and my own laborNot to mention a second teardown to redo the valves. Only laped them inbutthey didn't seal right. But that was only my own free labor.The pushrods above were for a spec on the engine that apparently isoverlooked by many. I had never heard of the concept till my AP filled mein. This is a must if you redo the valves.Here it is,,,the hydraulic lifter has a certain working range, and you mustrun in that range or the engine will be "weak"The spec is in the manual, and you correct each one that isn't right byreplacing that pushrod. You can get different lengths from Fresno parts.My advice on doing it yourself is that if you have the interest to do it,it's not a hard engine to do. But like anything else, if you don't reallyhave it in you, then let someone else do it.walt evans----- Original Message -----
01/09/2003 03:27:44 PMThanks Mike and Walt good advice, I will get a manaul and dig in...John"walter evans" (at)matronics.com on 01/09/200303:01:35 PMPlease respond to pietenpol-list(at)matronics.comSent by: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.comcc:Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Continental 65John,I read Mike Cuy's response, and it's good advice. Only difference withmineis that I got lucky and got an engine that was rumored to have only 800hours on it since overhaul. so I took a chance and luckily my AP gave it avisual and confirmed it ( after teardown) He felt the side play on the rodbearings and advised not to split the case, so I didn't. All else was inspec, except one valve shank.So it wound up costing me the price of a manual ( a must)ringsgasket setsome different length pushrods and my own laborNot to mention a second teardown to redo the valves. Only laped them inbutthey didn't seal right. But that was only my own free labor.The pushrods above were for a spec on the engine that apparently isoverlooked by many. I had never heard of the concept till my AP filled mein. This is a must if you redo the valves.Here it is,,,the hydraulic lifter has a certain working range, and you mustrun in that range or the engine will be "weak"The spec is in the manual, and you correct each one that isn't right byreplacing that pushrod. You can get different lengths from Fresno parts.My advice on doing it yourself is that if you have the interest to do it,it's not a hard engine to do. But like anything else, if you don't reallyhave it in you, then let someone else do it.walt evans----- Original Message -----
RE: Pietenpol-List: Continental 65
Original Posted By: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
Hi John,I overhauled my Continental A-65 this summer, under the watchful eye of thelocal FBO. It was not difficult at all. I watched the video that Mattituckput out on overhauling an O-200 (which is very similar to the A-65) andlearned a lot from that. If you have the manuals and watch the video youshouldn't have much trouble.On mine, nearly everything was new (new camshaft, cam followers, cylinders,pistons, intake tubes). The only original parts were the crankcase,connecting rods, rocker arms, valve lifters, gears, pushrods and crankshaft.All of those I had overhauled and inspected at Triad Aviation in Burlington,NC, except for the valve lifters, which I inspected myself per the overhaulmanual. I also overhauled the carburetor myself, per the manual.Do NOT buy your hardware from Fresno Airparts (opening page ofTrade-a-Plane). I bought the cylinder base nuts from them and I think theyare bogus hardware. Several of the nuts smeared before I put the fulltorque on them, so now I am in the process of re-torquing my cylinders withknown good hardware.I have not run the engine yet, but it turns over very smoothly and I havefull confidence in it. Better yet, I know everything that is in it, andhave a much better idea about what is going on inside the engine than Iwould if I had just paid somebody to do it.Go for it.Jack -----Original Message-----
Hi John,I overhauled my Continental A-65 this summer, under the watchful eye of thelocal FBO. It was not difficult at all. I watched the video that Mattituckput out on overhauling an O-200 (which is very similar to the A-65) andlearned a lot from that. If you have the manuals and watch the video youshouldn't have much trouble.On mine, nearly everything was new (new camshaft, cam followers, cylinders,pistons, intake tubes). The only original parts were the crankcase,connecting rods, rocker arms, valve lifters, gears, pushrods and crankshaft.All of those I had overhauled and inspected at Triad Aviation in Burlington,NC, except for the valve lifters, which I inspected myself per the overhaulmanual. I also overhauled the carburetor myself, per the manual.Do NOT buy your hardware from Fresno Airparts (opening page ofTrade-a-Plane). I bought the cylinder base nuts from them and I think theyare bogus hardware. Several of the nuts smeared before I put the fulltorque on them, so now I am in the process of re-torquing my cylinders withknown good hardware.I have not run the engine yet, but it turns over very smoothly and I havefull confidence in it. Better yet, I know everything that is in it, andhave a much better idea about what is going on inside the engine than Iwould if I had just paid somebody to do it.Go for it.Jack -----Original Message-----
Re: Pietenpol-List: Continental 65
Original Posted By: Rcaprd(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Continental 65John,The A-65 is a really easy engine to overhaul. Before tearing it down let me tell you about a couple things that will help. There are a couple of shoulder bolts that are really tight holding the case together, I have used a large C-clamp to get them started followed by a drift to get them out. Be Extra careful, not to ruin these or you will have to buy a complete set. Also there is bolt sorta hidden behind one of the rear lower mounts don't forget it. Once you get this far do not pry the case use a rubber mallet and carefully work it apart. Also when removing the cylinders do not allow the rods to drop against the case, it will leave a nice ding mark. Reuse all of your parts that are serviceable, don't leave flying time on the shelf, just because of a little wear. Hopefully you will have a standard shaft within limits, or one that will grind to . 010 , if not delay grinding to .020 as the cost of bearings is much higher. In fact you can probably find a new shaft ground .010 cheaper than the cost of going .020 hope this helps you out. I am on my third A-65. Dan ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Continental 65John,The A-65 is a really easy engine to overhaul. Before tearing it down let me tell you about a couple things that will help. There are a couple of shoulder bolts that are really tight holding the case together, I have used a large C-clamp to get them started followed by a drift to get them out. Be Extra careful, not to ruin these or you will have to buy a complete set. Also there is bolt sorta hidden behind one of the rear lower mounts don't forget it. Once you get this far do not pry the case use a rubber mallet and carefully work it apart. Also when removing the cylinders do not allow the rods to drop against the case, it will leave a nice ding mark. Reuse all of your parts that are serviceable, don't leave flying time on the shelf, just because of a little wear. Hopefully you will have a standard shaft within limits, or one that will grind to . 010 , if not delay grinding to .020 as the cost of bearings is much higher. In fact you can probably find a new shaft ground .010 cheaper than the cost of going .020 hope this helps you out. I am on my third A-65. Dan ________________________________________________________________________________
Re: Pietenpol-List: Continental 65
Original Posted By: "Cy Galley"
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Continental 65 Some good advise on the Continental overhaul from Mike, Walt, and like Gene said it is a silk thread. The thread doesn't come in the gasket kit, so I'll check the local sewing store...I wonder what they'll think when I tell 'em what I'm using it for. I'm deep in the overhaul process now. I have a Continental A75 engine, and I've learned the major difference is that the A75 has holes drilled in the rods in a location so when it is at the bottom of the stroke, it squirts a shot of oil up under the adjacent piston, for extra cooling. This allows for a higher R.P.M. and thus more power, accomplished with less pitch on the prop. The A65 is rated at 2300 R.P.M., and the A75 is rated at 2600 R.P.M. When I mic the crank, I recorded my readings on like a spread sheet. I checked four locations on each journel, and eight locations on the front main journel. On each journel I checked the forward portion, aft portion, and perpindicular to each of these locations. This allows you to spot a tapered worn journel, and an oval worn journel. I found that I have a crank that is in standard spec. My cam was good too. I checked the valve lift before I disassembled the engine, and they were all within .001 to .002 of each other, and the bearing journel was in spec. The two areas where I've gotta spend lots of money, is the ignition system, and the cylinders. My cylinders were worn past the limits, so I sent them off to Aircraft Cylinders of America, in Tulsa OK, for chrome. This is the only type work they do. Bore, chrome, then regrind the chrome back to original specs, to use std. pistons. It's an approved process, and they give a yellow tag with the cylinders (FAA airworthy part). The advantages are I can salvage the cylinders, chrome doesn't rust from prolonged storage, and it's hard enough to outlast 3 or 4 sets of rings. The first four I sent to them had rust pits in two of the cylinders, that were too deep for the process to be acceptable. I sent four more cylinders, found two more good ones, and now they have two done, two to go. They use Brown Aviation to do the head / valve work, so that's where my cylinders are going next. I haven't got them back yet, so I don't know the total bill, but it should be less than $1000. That's a lot less than $800 ea. for new ones. I bought the Slick Mag Kit #4334, which includes two mags with impulse couplings, gears, shielded ignition leads, and Autolite shielded plugs. Slick offers $150 rebate for your old mags, no matter the make...then they crush 'em !! Sheds a whole new lite on eliminating the competition ! With the rebate, it was just over $1000.Chuck Gantzer________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Continental 65 Some good advise on the Continental overhaul from Mike, Walt, and like Gene said it is a silk thread. The thread doesn't come in the gasket kit, so I'll check the local sewing store...I wonder what they'll think when I tell 'em what I'm using it for. I'm deep in the overhaul process now. I have a Continental A75 engine, and I've learned the major difference is that the A75 has holes drilled in the rods in a location so when it is at the bottom of the stroke, it squirts a shot of oil up under the adjacent piston, for extra cooling. This allows for a higher R.P.M. and thus more power, accomplished with less pitch on the prop. The A65 is rated at 2300 R.P.M., and the A75 is rated at 2600 R.P.M. When I mic the crank, I recorded my readings on like a spread sheet. I checked four locations on each journel, and eight locations on the front main journel. On each journel I checked the forward portion, aft portion, and perpindicular to each of these locations. This allows you to spot a tapered worn journel, and an oval worn journel. I found that I have a crank that is in standard spec. My cam was good too. I checked the valve lift before I disassembled the engine, and they were all within .001 to .002 of each other, and the bearing journel was in spec. The two areas where I've gotta spend lots of money, is the ignition system, and the cylinders. My cylinders were worn past the limits, so I sent them off to Aircraft Cylinders of America, in Tulsa OK, for chrome. This is the only type work they do. Bore, chrome, then regrind the chrome back to original specs, to use std. pistons. It's an approved process, and they give a yellow tag with the cylinders (FAA airworthy part). The advantages are I can salvage the cylinders, chrome doesn't rust from prolonged storage, and it's hard enough to outlast 3 or 4 sets of rings. The first four I sent to them had rust pits in two of the cylinders, that were too deep for the process to be acceptable. I sent four more cylinders, found two more good ones, and now they have two done, two to go. They use Brown Aviation to do the head / valve work, so that's where my cylinders are going next. I haven't got them back yet, so I don't know the total bill, but it should be less than $1000. That's a lot less than $800 ea. for new ones. I bought the Slick Mag Kit #4334, which includes two mags with impulse couplings, gears, shielded ignition leads, and Autolite shielded plugs. Slick offers $150 rebate for your old mags, no matter the make...then they crush 'em !! Sheds a whole new lite on eliminating the competition ! With the rebate, it was just over $1000.Chuck Gantzer________________________________________________________________________________
Re: Pietenpol-List: Continental 65
Original Posted By:
Did you check the cam for the REQUIRED 0.001 lobe taper from side to side?It is necessary to make the lifters rotate.Cy Galley - Bellanca Champion ClubNewsletter Editor & EAA TCwww.bellanca-championclub.comWe support Aeroncas----- Original Message -----
Did you check the cam for the REQUIRED 0.001 lobe taper from side to side?It is necessary to make the lifters rotate.Cy Galley - Bellanca Champion ClubNewsletter Editor & EAA TCwww.bellanca-championclub.comWe support Aeroncas----- Original Message -----
Re: Pietenpol-List: Continental 65
Original Posted By: Rcaprd(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Continental 65Chuck,Would you mind giving me an address/ phone on the Slick Mag package you spoke of. ThanksCorky in LaThe fun is in the building, most any jughead can fly em________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Continental 65Chuck,Would you mind giving me an address/ phone on the Slick Mag package you spoke of. ThanksCorky in LaThe fun is in the building, most any jughead can fly em________________________________________________________________________________
Re: Pietenpol-List: Continental 65
Original Posted By: Rcaprd(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Continental 65In a message dated 1/10/03 8:03:17 AM Central Standard Time, cgalley(at)qcbc.org writes:>No, I did not. I'll check it today. There were two lifters that were not rotating, as shown by the slight line worn across the bottom of the lifter. One had a bit of corrosion, or a burr in the bore of the lifter hole, and that's what I determined was the cause. I planned on cleaning up the lifter bore, with some fine emory cloth, and just swap 'em out for two others I have from another engine. Cy, what can I do if I do not have that .001 taper ?Chuck Gantzer________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Continental 65In a message dated 1/10/03 8:03:17 AM Central Standard Time, cgalley(at)qcbc.org writes:>No, I did not. I'll check it today. There were two lifters that were not rotating, as shown by the slight line worn across the bottom of the lifter. One had a bit of corrosion, or a burr in the bore of the lifter hole, and that's what I determined was the cause. I planned on cleaning up the lifter bore, with some fine emory cloth, and just swap 'em out for two others I have from another engine. Cy, what can I do if I do not have that .001 taper ?Chuck Gantzer________________________________________________________________________________
Re: Pietenpol-List: Continental 65
Original Posted By: Les Schubert
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Continental 65In a message dated 1/10/03 10:32:48 AM Central Standard Time, Isablcorky(at)aol.com writes:>I bought the Slick Mag Kit #K4334-40 at :Airparts Company Inc. 1991 Airport RoadP.O. Box 12370Wichita, KS 67277(800) 333-4221email - airparts-wi(at)juno.comTerry A. Gardner - Branch ManagerThey are a Unison dealer & Continental DealerUnison Industries is the distributor for Slick Mags. Their number is 1-815-965-4700 They only sell through their dealers, and could let ya know the nearst one to you. The guy I got alot of info from that works there is Adam Moler, his desk is 1-904-739-4068Chuck Gantzer - pulled the ol' Model A off the airframe a couple of days ago, when it was 70 !! I had almost 27 hrs flight time on it, with only two deadstick landings ! (47 hrs tt) Finishing up the engine mount & 6 gal fiberglass fuel tank, in the nose. Prop & cowling is next.________________________________________________________________________________Date: Fri, 10 Jan 2003 10:23:39 -0700
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Continental 65In a message dated 1/10/03 10:32:48 AM Central Standard Time, Isablcorky(at)aol.com writes:>I bought the Slick Mag Kit #K4334-40 at :Airparts Company Inc. 1991 Airport RoadP.O. Box 12370Wichita, KS 67277(800) 333-4221email - airparts-wi(at)juno.comTerry A. Gardner - Branch ManagerThey are a Unison dealer & Continental DealerUnison Industries is the distributor for Slick Mags. Their number is 1-815-965-4700 They only sell through their dealers, and could let ya know the nearst one to you. The guy I got alot of info from that works there is Adam Moler, his desk is 1-904-739-4068Chuck Gantzer - pulled the ol' Model A off the airframe a couple of days ago, when it was 70 !! I had almost 27 hrs flight time on it, with only two deadstick landings ! (47 hrs tt) Finishing up the engine mount & 6 gal fiberglass fuel tank, in the nose. Prop & cowling is next.________________________________________________________________________________Date: Fri, 10 Jan 2003 10:23:39 -0700
> Re: Pietenpol-List: Continental 65
Original Posted By: Les Schubert
RE: Pietenpol-List: Continental 65
Original Posted By: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
I would get the cam reground and also have the lifters reground. Do thisbefore you size your pushrods as the reground cam will normally increase thedeflated lifter clearance and you might wind up needing a few longerpushrods. Also, swapping pushrods from one place to another might correctclearance issues as it is hard to tell the difference between pushrods byeye. Aircraft Specialties in Tulsa does the cam/lifter regrinding. Thisregrinding is really inportant because the lifter to cam contact is the onlyplace besides the rings that you have hard metal to hard metal contact. Anymetal that wears off here will be in your oil, eventually recirculatingthrough and embedding itself into the main or rod bearing soft metal. Theythen will act as little lathe ctuting bits that will turn down your crankuntil it is no good no more.Chris-----Original Message-----
I would get the cam reground and also have the lifters reground. Do thisbefore you size your pushrods as the reground cam will normally increase thedeflated lifter clearance and you might wind up needing a few longerpushrods. Also, swapping pushrods from one place to another might correctclearance issues as it is hard to tell the difference between pushrods byeye. Aircraft Specialties in Tulsa does the cam/lifter regrinding. Thisregrinding is really inportant because the lifter to cam contact is the onlyplace besides the rings that you have hard metal to hard metal contact. Anymetal that wears off here will be in your oil, eventually recirculatingthrough and embedding itself into the main or rod bearing soft metal. Theythen will act as little lathe ctuting bits that will turn down your crankuntil it is no good no more.Chris-----Original Message-----
RE: Pietenpol-List: Continental 65
Original Posted By: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
If he has the grooves on the lifter surface, he has proof enough that theyare not rotating.Chris Bobka-----Original Message-----
If he has the grooves on the lifter surface, he has proof enough that theyare not rotating.Chris Bobka-----Original Message-----
Re: Pietenpol-List: Continental 65
Original Posted By:
There must be a slight crown on the lifter body face as well. Since itisn't a certified engine, just a slight honing with a stone can produce thedesired taper. However the A-series manual says that the lobs can be lightlystoned. The C-series manual says to replace the cam shaft. It also statesthat the taper is necessary to rotate the lifters. If they don't then aline is worn into the face of the lifter. They can be salvaged by makecasting an shaped hose block out of epoxy and micro-balloons and using valvegrinding compound to reshape the lifter face. The fact that it is tapered ison page 60 of my c-series manual but the engines and many of the parts likethe cam are the same for the A-series. They also have to work the same.Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, OshkoshEditor, EAA Safety Programscgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.orgAlways looking for articles for the Experimenter----- Original Message -----
There must be a slight crown on the lifter body face as well. Since itisn't a certified engine, just a slight honing with a stone can produce thedesired taper. However the A-series manual says that the lobs can be lightlystoned. The C-series manual says to replace the cam shaft. It also statesthat the taper is necessary to rotate the lifters. If they don't then aline is worn into the face of the lifter. They can be salvaged by makecasting an shaped hose block out of epoxy and micro-balloons and using valvegrinding compound to reshape the lifter face. The fact that it is tapered ison page 60 of my c-series manual but the engines and many of the parts likethe cam are the same for the A-series. They also have to work the same.Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, OshkoshEditor, EAA Safety Programscgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.orgAlways looking for articles for the Experimenter----- Original Message -----
RE: Pietenpol-List: Continental 65
Original Posted By: TomTravis(at)aol.com
Hi Les,I'm sure it could have been done cheaper, but my costs were as follows:Basic Engine (rebuildable Core) $1,500Millenium Cylinders (original cylinders were worn beyond the limits)$3,350 (New cylinders come with new pistons, rings, valves, valve seats, rockershafts and piston pins)Overhauled crankcase $575Overhauled crankshaft, connecting rods, rocker arms, oil pump $975 (crank was reground .010 undersize and magnafluxed)New camshaft, cam followers $750New Slick Magnetos, after rebate $835Total $7,985A boatload of money, but then I have essentially a brand new engine to showfor it. I expect to get at least 1800 hours out of this engine. TheMillenium cylinders are better than the originals in a number of ways, suchas improved heat rejection (better fin design), choked bore, better steel,etc. I weighed all the reciprocating parts before assembly and mixed andmatched them to make the weights as even as possible between the cylindersand found that the Millenium pistons all weighed within 0.5 grams of eachother. The Continental pistons were within about 2 grams each.I considered having the old cylinders re-worked, but they were made in 1945and I have no logs on the engine, so I have no idea how many hours they hadon them. They were not in real bad shape, but they were worn to the pointthat any honing would take them past the limits. I decided that I wouldrather bite the bullet and buy new cylinders rather than put a lot of moneyinto 58 year old parts.Jack -----Original Message-----I am curious as to how much some of these A65 continental overhauls havecostI am just getting started on a Piet project and am trying to figure whatthe engineis going to cost to get it right. I assume that the guys who have done theseoverhauls recently can give the rest of a idea of the cost.Chuck and the rest of you: one thing about the hard chrome cylinders youshouldknow. Hard Chrome is porous and provides NO additional corrosion protection.The fact is in some circumstances it is worse for corrosion resistance. Sokeep yourcylinders oiled and if you are storing in a humid climate (relativehumidity over 50%average) then take special fogging precautions over the winter. For thoseof us wholive in a arid climate we don't generally have this problem.Les form sunny dry Alberta________________________________________________________________________________
Hi Les,I'm sure it could have been done cheaper, but my costs were as follows:Basic Engine (rebuildable Core) $1,500Millenium Cylinders (original cylinders were worn beyond the limits)$3,350 (New cylinders come with new pistons, rings, valves, valve seats, rockershafts and piston pins)Overhauled crankcase $575Overhauled crankshaft, connecting rods, rocker arms, oil pump $975 (crank was reground .010 undersize and magnafluxed)New camshaft, cam followers $750New Slick Magnetos, after rebate $835Total $7,985A boatload of money, but then I have essentially a brand new engine to showfor it. I expect to get at least 1800 hours out of this engine. TheMillenium cylinders are better than the originals in a number of ways, suchas improved heat rejection (better fin design), choked bore, better steel,etc. I weighed all the reciprocating parts before assembly and mixed andmatched them to make the weights as even as possible between the cylindersand found that the Millenium pistons all weighed within 0.5 grams of eachother. The Continental pistons were within about 2 grams each.I considered having the old cylinders re-worked, but they were made in 1945and I have no logs on the engine, so I have no idea how many hours they hadon them. They were not in real bad shape, but they were worn to the pointthat any honing would take them past the limits. I decided that I wouldrather bite the bullet and buy new cylinders rather than put a lot of moneyinto 58 year old parts.Jack -----Original Message-----I am curious as to how much some of these A65 continental overhauls havecostI am just getting started on a Piet project and am trying to figure whatthe engineis going to cost to get it right. I assume that the guys who have done theseoverhauls recently can give the rest of a idea of the cost.Chuck and the rest of you: one thing about the hard chrome cylinders youshouldknow. Hard Chrome is porous and provides NO additional corrosion protection.The fact is in some circumstances it is worse for corrosion resistance. Sokeep yourcylinders oiled and if you are storing in a humid climate (relativehumidity over 50%average) then take special fogging precautions over the winter. For thoseof us wholive in a arid climate we don't generally have this problem.Les form sunny dry Alberta________________________________________________________________________________
Re: Pietenpol-List: Continental 65
Original Posted By: "Oscar Zuniga"
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Continental 65In a message dated 1/13/03 7:25:49 PM Central Standard Time, leskarin(at)telus.net writes:>Les, I talked with them today, and the process on the cylinders is called 'Channel Chrome'. They are the ones that told me it will not corrode. My cylinders are done, and they are sending 'em off for the head work.Chuck________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Continental 65In a message dated 1/13/03 7:25:49 PM Central Standard Time, leskarin(at)telus.net writes:>Les, I talked with them today, and the process on the cylinders is called 'Channel Chrome'. They are the ones that told me it will not corrode. My cylinders are done, and they are sending 'em off for the head work.Chuck________________________________________________________________________________