Original Posted By: Mike
Thanks Ed,I hadn't thought of that aspect about making the metal parts first.Regarding 4130 versus 1025 I'm wondering if it isn't just "gilding the lily"to use 4130 instead of the mild steel?My understanding is very marginal but I never really understood why use 4130and then weld it with mild steel rod. Also, they say to reheat the joint torelieve stress. Isn't this just moving the stress down the tube a ways? Ihave a friend that builds race cars and he tells me that they stopped using4130 because ithas a tendency to crack where subject to a lot of vibration in places likemotor mounts. Also if BHP used 1025 without problems why change to aproduct that is a lot more expensive, much harder to work with and prone tocracking when subject to a lot of vibration? I'm not trying to start a big deal over this, I would really like to knowthe pros and cons. Also I'm a strong adherent of the KISS principle (Keepit simple stupid!) and with a very few exceptions want to stick with thebasic design.Regards,Bob> I made that mistake (I followed Tony Bingelis'> recommendation while waiting for my wood order) and ended up remaking alot> of the metal parts. I think most Pieters will agree that you should makethe> wood parts first...then.... using the plans as a guide make the metalparts> to fit the wood parts. Just trying to save you some time , metal and> aggrevation. Have fun building though, the Piet is a great project! EdG.> P.S. The plans call for brazing some of the metal parts and 4130 is the> norm for building these days> ( actually since the early 50s) Some people recommend that 4130 should not> be brazed.________________________________________________________________________________Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2003 14:10:19 -0700Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: metal parts 4130 versus 1025?? was impressions of a newbie