Original Posted By: "Mike Whaley"
HiGot my own message back and found that I attached the wrong pics. Hereare the correct ones.Deon EngelmannEAA322 Midrand # SA12055PretoriaSouth Africa________________________________________________________________________________
RE: Pietenpol-List: Rib jig 2
Re: Pietenpol-List: Rib jig 2
Original Posted By: Clif Dawson
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Rib jig 2Deon, Your rib jig is lookin' good !! Triple check the dimensions between the spars, and make sure they are parallel to each other, before you install the spar blocks. Triple check all the dimensions up from the datum line, and all along the outside dimension lines, while you have your first capstrip in the jig, and adjust accordingly. Sometimes ya just gotta split the difference. On my Pietenpol rib jig, when installing the gussets, I used weight to hold them till cured, after the epoxy was spread. Instead of using stables ornails, I used every 1/2" socket I had, as well as anything that weighed about 10 ounces, on top of each gusset. That was quit a bit of weight on the table,with two ribs (one flipped over). On my Tailwind rib jig, I made clamps and wing nuts to hold the gussets during cure. It took a bit longer to build, though. Spread a thin coat of epoxy to the entire side of the gusset where it contacts, as well as on the surfaces of the cap strips where it is between thegussets. This will eliminate the necessity of the tedious job of using a smallbrush to dab varnish up in there between the gussets, when you are to the varnish stage (after the wing is 100% complete). Leave the forward, and aft ends of the capstrips hang over, and cut them off after the rib has gussets on both sides. It's best to cut them off after you have a ship set of ribs built, so you can do that operation at the same time. Then slide and stack all of ribs together on to the spars, and sand andplane the forward and aft ends of the ribs all the same final length. Max used a method of popping the rib out of the jib, after epoxy cure, that uses a dowel pin, up through a hole, located under each gusset location. I used a thin blade to carefully pop each location out. If you have some problem popping the rib out of the jig, after you've built a few ribs, you couldalways drill a hole in the rib jig at the gusset locations, and use Max's method.Chuck GantzerNX770CGNorEaster blew in today...Cold day in Kansas________________________________________________________________________________Date: Tue, 27 Jan 2004 00:45:20 -0800
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Rib jig 2Deon, Your rib jig is lookin' good !! Triple check the dimensions between the spars, and make sure they are parallel to each other, before you install the spar blocks. Triple check all the dimensions up from the datum line, and all along the outside dimension lines, while you have your first capstrip in the jig, and adjust accordingly. Sometimes ya just gotta split the difference. On my Pietenpol rib jig, when installing the gussets, I used weight to hold them till cured, after the epoxy was spread. Instead of using stables ornails, I used every 1/2" socket I had, as well as anything that weighed about 10 ounces, on top of each gusset. That was quit a bit of weight on the table,with two ribs (one flipped over). On my Tailwind rib jig, I made clamps and wing nuts to hold the gussets during cure. It took a bit longer to build, though. Spread a thin coat of epoxy to the entire side of the gusset where it contacts, as well as on the surfaces of the cap strips where it is between thegussets. This will eliminate the necessity of the tedious job of using a smallbrush to dab varnish up in there between the gussets, when you are to the varnish stage (after the wing is 100% complete). Leave the forward, and aft ends of the capstrips hang over, and cut them off after the rib has gussets on both sides. It's best to cut them off after you have a ship set of ribs built, so you can do that operation at the same time. Then slide and stack all of ribs together on to the spars, and sand andplane the forward and aft ends of the ribs all the same final length. Max used a method of popping the rib out of the jib, after epoxy cure, that uses a dowel pin, up through a hole, located under each gusset location. I used a thin blade to carefully pop each location out. If you have some problem popping the rib out of the jig, after you've built a few ribs, you couldalways drill a hole in the rib jig at the gusset locations, and use Max's method.Chuck GantzerNX770CGNorEaster blew in today...Cold day in Kansas________________________________________________________________________________Date: Tue, 27 Jan 2004 00:45:20 -0800