Original Posted By: TOM MICHELLE BRANT
Question for those that milled their own cap strip, or are more experienced inresawing than I am. I have been thinking lately about purchasing my spruce fromMcCormick in Madison, and understand that they are selling 1" thick rough cut.If that is the case, how many "layers" of cap strip could I resaw out of a 1" thickboard? I know I could get 2. Is it possible (for an amateur) to get 3 layers?With the thickness of the band saw blade, and the need to run everythingthrough the planner, I am worried that 3/32" of waste between layers wont beenough. See attached picture that shows what I am talking about.Thanks in advance for your expertise!Read this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ttachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/resa ... __________
Pietenpol-List: Resaw Options
> Pietenpol-List: Resaw Options
Original Posted By:> gtche98(at)gmail.com
I'd say 3 would be tight if you're resawing.. Guess it depends how careful you are when you're resawing - minimize the wavi-ness by setting up a fence of course... When I planed mine down I had about 7/8" thk boards. FWIW=2C it's a lot of extra work for not that much savings=2C especially when you factor in the trip there or shipping to your door. I'd just order the capstrip from ASS or Wicks.. If you're doing spars or most of the other structure=2C Mckormicks is great.Just my $.02Tom B.> Subject: Pietenpol-List: Resaw Options
I'd say 3 would be tight if you're resawing.. Guess it depends how careful you are when you're resawing - minimize the wavi-ness by setting up a fence of course... When I planed mine down I had about 7/8" thk boards. FWIW=2C it's a lot of extra work for not that much savings=2C especially when you factor in the trip there or shipping to your door. I'd just order the capstrip from ASS or Wicks.. If you're doing spars or most of the other structure=2C Mckormicks is great.Just my $.02Tom B.> Subject: Pietenpol-List: Resaw Options
RE: Pietenpol-List: Resaw Options
Original Posted By: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
Gtche98,I know that many on this list have spoken of using planer, but I seriouslydoubt that it's a requirement. Also, there is no need to lose 1/32" on theedge of each board. What would be the purpose of that? I don't know aboutusing a band saw to cut strips...I think a table saw would be far better,but please know that virtually ALL of my wood was cut on a table saw out ofstandard pieces of 1x poplar. With capstrips, especially, there is no needfor perfection. The 1/2" width is important, as is 1/4" thickness, but it'smore important that all are the same. In the end, you will be clamping allyour ribs together and sanding the edges well...just my 2 cents...well,actually it was closer to 5 cents...Gary Boothe Cool, Ca. Pietenpol WW Corvair Conversion, Running! Tail done, Fuselage on gear (22 ribs down.) -----Original Message-----
Gtche98,I know that many on this list have spoken of using planer, but I seriouslydoubt that it's a requirement. Also, there is no need to lose 1/32" on theedge of each board. What would be the purpose of that? I don't know aboutusing a band saw to cut strips...I think a table saw would be far better,but please know that virtually ALL of my wood was cut on a table saw out ofstandard pieces of 1x poplar. With capstrips, especially, there is no needfor perfection. The 1/2" width is important, as is 1/4" thickness, but it'smore important that all are the same. In the end, you will be clamping allyour ribs together and sanding the edges well...just my 2 cents...well,actually it was closer to 5 cents...Gary Boothe Cool, Ca. Pietenpol WW Corvair Conversion, Running! Tail done, Fuselage on gear (22 ribs down.) -----Original Message-----
Pietenpol-List: Re: Resaw Options
Original Posted By: "Kringle"
Bill - I used the tubes a couple of times and then went back to the bottles andthe little graduated plastic mixing cups. The only advantage they offer is ifyou have a whole bunch of gluing to do. Waste of money and effort for buildingribs. Mix your glue on some plastic in the kitchen and put some plastic onthe flour around your work area so she doesn't shoot you if you drop the littleplastic cup of glue on her clean floor.Kevin--------Kevin PurteeNX899KPAustin/Georgetown, TXRead this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ___Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Resaw Options
Bill - I used the tubes a couple of times and then went back to the bottles andthe little graduated plastic mixing cups. The only advantage they offer is ifyou have a whole bunch of gluing to do. Waste of money and effort for buildingribs. Mix your glue on some plastic in the kitchen and put some plastic onthe flour around your work area so she doesn't shoot you if you drop the littleplastic cup of glue on her clean floor.Kevin--------Kevin PurteeNX899KPAustin/Georgetown, TXRead this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ___Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Resaw Options
Pietenpol-List: Re: Resaw Options
Original Posted By: "Dangerous Dave"
I looked at the same thing. I purchased some wood from mcmcormick but decidedto save it for some of the bigger sticks needed. Ordered enough capstrip to domy ribs from aircraft Spruce last week.--------JohnRead this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ___Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Resaw Options
I looked at the same thing. I purchased some wood from mcmcormick but decidedto save it for some of the bigger sticks needed. Ordered enough capstrip to domy ribs from aircraft Spruce last week.--------JohnRead this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ___Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Resaw Options
Pietenpol-List: Re: Resaw Options
Original Posted By: "Kringle"
Hi,I cut all my capstrips and milled them.Takes 86 to do the 3 piece wing.I used1 1/2- 2"x9"x6' rough cut sitka.You loose about half the wood and it takes about4 hours.Make sure you have the grain laying correctly for a capstrip.--------Building a PietRead this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ttachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/piet ... ___Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Resaw Options
Hi,I cut all my capstrips and milled them.Takes 86 to do the 3 piece wing.I used1 1/2- 2"x9"x6' rough cut sitka.You loose about half the wood and it takes about4 hours.Make sure you have the grain laying correctly for a capstrip.--------Building a PietRead this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ttachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/piet ... ___Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Resaw Options
Pietenpol-List: Re: Resaw Options
Original Posted By: "gtche98"
U picked up five 6 foot long 5/4 x 4 boards... ripped them just over a half inch..then ripped each half by 5/4 piece into 1/4x1/2 .. i think i have enough..stoppedcounting after 80 pieces. i used a 3/4 blade with 10 teeth per inchon my band sawjeffRead this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ___Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Resaw Options
U picked up five 6 foot long 5/4 x 4 boards... ripped them just over a half inch..then ripped each half by 5/4 piece into 1/4x1/2 .. i think i have enough..stoppedcounting after 80 pieces. i used a 3/4 blade with 10 teeth per inchon my band sawjeffRead this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ___Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Resaw Options
Original Posted By: Michael Perez
Thanks to all for your ideas. Couple of things:John - I think you bring up a very good point about the work that goes into makingyour own capstrip. I may end up using McCormick for all the wood but the capstrip and just order that from aircraft spruce. Dave - I am by no means an expert, but is your grain running the right way? I wouldhave thought you would want it running in the other direction for strength.Jeff - great info. You are the first I have heard mention 5/4 lumber. Was it afull 5/4? Did you get it from McCormick? If I could get 5/4, I would feel muchmore confident in resawing 3 1/4" sections out of the thickness of the board.GaryRead this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ______Date: Tue, 26 Oct 2010 07:09:48 -0700 (PDT)
Thanks to all for your ideas. Couple of things:John - I think you bring up a very good point about the work that goes into makingyour own capstrip. I may end up using McCormick for all the wood but the capstrip and just order that from aircraft spruce. Dave - I am by no means an expert, but is your grain running the right way? I wouldhave thought you would want it running in the other direction for strength.Jeff - great info. You are the first I have heard mention 5/4 lumber. Was it afull 5/4? Did you get it from McCormick? If I could get 5/4, I would feel muchmore confident in resawing 3 1/4" sections out of the thickness of the board.GaryRead this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ______Date: Tue, 26 Oct 2010 07:09:48 -0700 (PDT)
Pietenpol-List: Leading edge material
Original Posted By: dpilot88(at)earthlink.net
I am laying out my full size rib diagram for the GAU 612 airfoil and I was wondering what most people are using for leading and trailing edge material. Ready to buy some spruce and get going!________________________________________________________________________________
I am laying out my full size rib diagram for the GAU 612 airfoil and I was wondering what most people are using for leading and trailing edge material. Ready to buy some spruce and get going!________________________________________________________________________________
Re: Pietenpol-List: Leading edge material
Original Posted By: Kenneth Howe
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Returned Mail: Leading edge materialI apologize for this automatic reply to your email.To control spam, I now allow incoming messages only from senders Ihave approved beforehand.If you would like to be added to my list of approved senders, pleasefill out the short request form (see link below). Once I approve you,I will receive your original message in my inbox. You do not need toresend your message. I apologize for this one-time inconvenience.Click the link below to fill out the request:https://webmail.pas.earthlink.net/wam/a ... ___Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Leading edge material
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Returned Mail: Leading edge materialI apologize for this automatic reply to your email.To control spam, I now allow incoming messages only from senders Ihave approved beforehand.If you would like to be added to my list of approved senders, pleasefill out the short request form (see link below). Once I approve you,I will receive your original message in my inbox. You do not need toresend your message. I apologize for this one-time inconvenience.Click the link below to fill out the request:https://webmail.pas.earthlink.net/wam/a ... ___Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Leading edge material
Pietenpol-List: Re: Resaw Options
Original Posted By: "Dangerous Dave"
I haven't gotten the LE/TE material yet. When the time comes I will probably lookat the using a piece of molding from Home Despot (or other DIY big-box store)for the TE. It's been talked about here in the past if you search the archives.I'm not sure if the ripped section from a stair railing will work as well for theRiblett LE section as it has for people building the original Piet section.If that doesn't work then I'll probably search the lumber stacks to find somestraight grain fir or hemlock and plane it to shape. Use a table saw to rip itclose to shape then hand-plane it to the final contour. After finally learninghow to correctly sharpen and set up a hand plane a few years ago in a classby a local furniture builder, I look forward to planing the leading edge. Whatbetter way to make some parts for your plane than with a plane?KenOn Oct 26, 2010, at 3:40 PM, Robert Perry wrote:> > I am laying out my full size rib diagram for the GAU 612 airfoil and I was wonderingwhat most people are using for leading and trailing edge material. Readyto buy some spruce and get going!> > > > ________________________________________________________________________________Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Resaw Options
I haven't gotten the LE/TE material yet. When the time comes I will probably lookat the using a piece of molding from Home Despot (or other DIY big-box store)for the TE. It's been talked about here in the past if you search the archives.I'm not sure if the ripped section from a stair railing will work as well for theRiblett LE section as it has for people building the original Piet section.If that doesn't work then I'll probably search the lumber stacks to find somestraight grain fir or hemlock and plane it to shape. Use a table saw to rip itclose to shape then hand-plane it to the final contour. After finally learninghow to correctly sharpen and set up a hand plane a few years ago in a classby a local furniture builder, I look forward to planing the leading edge. Whatbetter way to make some parts for your plane than with a plane?KenOn Oct 26, 2010, at 3:40 PM, Robert Perry wrote:> > I am laying out my full size rib diagram for the GAU 612 airfoil and I was wonderingwhat most people are using for leading and trailing edge material. Readyto buy some spruce and get going!> > > > ________________________________________________________________________________Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Resaw Options
Pietenpol-List: Re: Resaw Options
Original Posted By: "bender"
I did a most of the shaping of my leading and trainling edges on the tail sectionwith a hand plane. I roughed it in close to shape on the table saw, and thenfinalized it with a small, very sharp and nicely tuned plane and did it invery short order. Probably a lot quicker than trying to clamp everything downand set up a router to to shape the parts. Using a sharp and tuned up hand planeis a very satisfying thing in and of itself, but even more so when usingit to build airplane parts!--------Billy McCaskillUrbana, ILtail section almost done, starting on ribs soonRead this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ___Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Resaw Options
I did a most of the shaping of my leading and trainling edges on the tail sectionwith a hand plane. I roughed it in close to shape on the table saw, and thenfinalized it with a small, very sharp and nicely tuned plane and did it invery short order. Probably a lot quicker than trying to clamp everything downand set up a router to to shape the parts. Using a sharp and tuned up hand planeis a very satisfying thing in and of itself, but even more so when usingit to build airplane parts!--------Billy McCaskillUrbana, ILtail section almost done, starting on ribs soonRead this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ___Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Resaw Options
Pietenpol-List: Re: Resaw Options
Original Posted By: "coxwelljon"
May I ask a question,How are you controlling your rudder and tail wheel ? If by the same rudder cables,are the rudder and tail wheel control arms the same length ? as they mustturn equal radius to get full rudder control. If the tail wheel arms are shorterthe rudder will not swing fully.Pieti LowellRead this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ___Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Resaw Options
May I ask a question,How are you controlling your rudder and tail wheel ? If by the same rudder cables,are the rudder and tail wheel control arms the same length ? as they mustturn equal radius to get full rudder control. If the tail wheel arms are shorterthe rudder will not swing fully.Pieti LowellRead this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ___Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Resaw Options
Pietenpol-List: Re: Resaw Options
Original Posted By: "Billy McCaskill"
gtche98 wrote:> Question for those that milled their own cap strip, or are more experienced inresawing than I am. I have been thinking lately about purchasing my sprucefrom McCormick in Madison, and understand that they are selling 1" thick roughcut.> > If that is the case, how many "layers" of cap strip could I resaw out of a 1"thick board? I know I could get 2. Is it possible (for an amateur) to get 3layers? With the thickness of the band saw blade, and the need to run everythingthrough the planner, I am worried that 3/32" of waste between layers wontbe enough. See attached picture that shows what I am talking about.> > Thanks in advance for your expertise!If you have a bandsaw that is the only way to go. Get a woodslicer blade here http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/wood ... lades.aspx . This blade is expensive $30 + but it is amazing. The finish is nearly as good as if run through a planer or jointer. Lightly sand and you are done. With this blade you can easily get 3 cap strips out of a 1" board and not have to plane them. As an aside I cut all of the 1/4" planking for a wood strip canoe with a band saw and really saved a lot of material With the wood slicer blade I have cut as thin as 1/8" x 6" panels from a 1 x 6 maple board and they needed very little sanding.--------Jon Coxwell GN-1 BuilderRecycle and preserve the planetRead this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ___Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Resaw Options
gtche98 wrote:> Question for those that milled their own cap strip, or are more experienced inresawing than I am. I have been thinking lately about purchasing my sprucefrom McCormick in Madison, and understand that they are selling 1" thick roughcut.> > If that is the case, how many "layers" of cap strip could I resaw out of a 1"thick board? I know I could get 2. Is it possible (for an amateur) to get 3layers? With the thickness of the band saw blade, and the need to run everythingthrough the planner, I am worried that 3/32" of waste between layers wontbe enough. See attached picture that shows what I am talking about.> > Thanks in advance for your expertise!If you have a bandsaw that is the only way to go. Get a woodslicer blade here http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/wood ... lades.aspx . This blade is expensive $30 + but it is amazing. The finish is nearly as good as if run through a planer or jointer. Lightly sand and you are done. With this blade you can easily get 3 cap strips out of a 1" board and not have to plane them. As an aside I cut all of the 1/4" planking for a wood strip canoe with a band saw and really saved a lot of material With the wood slicer blade I have cut as thin as 1/8" x 6" panels from a 1 x 6 maple board and they needed very little sanding.--------Jon Coxwell GN-1 BuilderRecycle and preserve the planetRead this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ___Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Resaw Options
Original Posted By: "Jack"
Ditto what Jon said about using the bandsaw for resawing thin strips vs. usingthe table saw. I own both machines, and find it much safer and easier and getfar less kerf waste with the bandsaw. I have consistently resawn veneers as thin as .030" on my Delta bandsaw but wouldnever try to get such thin slices on a table saw if there were any way aroundit. The 1/8" kerf from the table saw blade is tremendously wasteful when tryingto maximize the amount of thin strips you can cut from a larger board. The keft from a good bandsaw resawing blade is usually less than 1/16" and asJon said, if you use a good blade, planing is not necessary. A light sandingis all you will need.--------Billy McCaskillUrbana, ILtail section almost done, starting on ribs soonRead this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... __________
Ditto what Jon said about using the bandsaw for resawing thin strips vs. usingthe table saw. I own both machines, and find it much safer and easier and getfar less kerf waste with the bandsaw. I have consistently resawn veneers as thin as .030" on my Delta bandsaw but wouldnever try to get such thin slices on a table saw if there were any way aroundit. The 1/8" kerf from the table saw blade is tremendously wasteful when tryingto maximize the amount of thin strips you can cut from a larger board. The keft from a good bandsaw resawing blade is usually less than 1/16" and asJon said, if you use a good blade, planing is not necessary. A light sandingis all you will need.--------Billy McCaskillUrbana, ILtail section almost done, starting on ribs soonRead this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... __________
RE: Re: Pietenpol-List: Leading edge material
Original Posted By: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
Cliff,The flute finger hole burner...I'm lost, what is that for?Thanks,JackDSM-----Original Message-----
Cliff,The flute finger hole burner...I'm lost, what is that for?Thanks,JackDSM-----Original Message-----
Re: Pietenpol-List: Leading edge material
Original Posted By: Jim Markle
Pietenpol-List: Re: Resaw Options
Original Posted By: "gtche98"
I have an old Poly-Fiber sheet here that says witth two coats polybrush, three ofpolyspray and three of polytone, 1.7oz fabric weighs 1.4oz / ft=B2 .>From my "Aircraft Materials and Processes" 1937, birch 1/16 ply= 4oz/ft=B2 andmahogany about three oz. This before paint.These are out of books of course so your mileage may vary. :-)Clif Out of curiosity, does anyone have a guess as to the weight difference between covering the turtle deck with fabric or 1/16" plywood? Ray Krause, Colusa, CA. Ribs and tail sections done, fuselage coming along.________________________________________________________________________________Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Resaw Options
I have an old Poly-Fiber sheet here that says witth two coats polybrush, three ofpolyspray and three of polytone, 1.7oz fabric weighs 1.4oz / ft=B2 .>From my "Aircraft Materials and Processes" 1937, birch 1/16 ply= 4oz/ft=B2 andmahogany about three oz. This before paint.These are out of books of course so your mileage may vary. :-)Clif Out of curiosity, does anyone have a guess as to the weight difference between covering the turtle deck with fabric or 1/16" plywood? Ray Krause, Colusa, CA. Ribs and tail sections done, fuselage coming along.________________________________________________________________________________Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Resaw Options
Pietenpol-List: Re: Resaw Options
Original Posted By: "Bill Church"
Saw a Piet for sale in Atlantic Flyer (online). Covered, ready to assemble w/65Conti. $5k... incase someone would like to know. Forgot exact address..googleit, then hit 'home' to get to current issue. Might be worth the price for partsalone.Read this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ___Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Resaw Options
Saw a Piet for sale in Atlantic Flyer (online). Covered, ready to assemble w/65Conti. $5k... incase someone would like to know. Forgot exact address..googleit, then hit 'home' to get to current issue. Might be worth the price for partsalone.Read this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ___Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Resaw Options
Original Posted By: Oscar Zuniga
The ribs are very sturdy as per plans. Some say that they are overdesigned. Providedthat you are using Sitka, or a wood with similar strength, the capstripsfor the ribs can be made a little bit narrower. So, if you can get 7/16" widecapstrips out of your boards, you should be okay. The ribs would still be strongerthan ribs made from 1/4" x 1/2" Western Red Cedar - which many Piets haveflow quite successfully with. Bill C.Read this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... __________
The ribs are very sturdy as per plans. Some say that they are overdesigned. Providedthat you are using Sitka, or a wood with similar strength, the capstripsfor the ribs can be made a little bit narrower. So, if you can get 7/16" widecapstrips out of your boards, you should be okay. The ribs would still be strongerthan ribs made from 1/4" x 1/2" Western Red Cedar - which many Piets haveflow quite successfully with. Bill C.Read this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... __________
Original Posted By: "Gary Boothe"
> To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com> > > Question for those that milled their own cap strip=2C or are more experienced in resawing than I am. I have been thinking lately about purchasing my spruce from McCormick in Madison=2C and understand that they are selling 1" thick rough cut.> > If that is the case=2C how many "layers" of cap strip could I resaw out of a 1" thick board? I know I could get 2. Is it possible (for an amateur) to get 3 layers? With the thickness of the band saw blade=2C and the need to run everything through the planner=2C I am worried that 3/32" of waste between layers wont be enough. See attached picture that shows what I am talking about.> > Thanks in advance for your expertise!> > > > > Read this topic online here:> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... 044#317044> > > > > Attachments: > > http://forums.matronics.com//files/resa ... ns_232.jpg> > > > ============================================> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
> To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com> > > Question for those that milled their own cap strip=2C or are more experienced in resawing than I am. I have been thinking lately about purchasing my spruce from McCormick in Madison=2C and understand that they are selling 1" thick rough cut.> > If that is the case=2C how many "layers" of cap strip could I resaw out of a 1" thick board? I know I could get 2. Is it possible (for an amateur) to get 3 layers? With the thickness of the band saw blade=2C and the need to run everything through the planner=2C I am worried that 3/32" of waste between layers wont be enough. See attached picture that shows what I am talking about.> > Thanks in advance for your expertise!> > > > > Read this topic online here:> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... 044#317044> > > > > Attachments: > > http://forums.matronics.com//files/resa ... ns_232.jpg> > > > ============================================> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
