Original Posted By: dcsBell(at)netcom.ca
Can anyone give me a good reason to build the three piece wing if Idon't ever have any intention of hauling the plane on a trailer? That'sprobably the sure way to get it damaged is by some idiot in a car on thefreeway.Brad Schultzbrsch(at)afcon.com________________________________________________________________________________
Pietenpol-List: Wing
Pietenpol-List: Re: Wing
Original Posted By: Doug Hunt
Brad Schultz wrote:> > Can anyone give me a good reason to build the three piece wing if I> don't ever have any intention of hauling the plane on a trailer? That's> probably the sure way to get it damaged is by some idiot in a car on the> freeway.> > Brad Schultz> brsch(at)afcon.comHi Brad,I chose the three piece wing and built it as such for ease of Assembly,you can do it yourself; for ease of transport, you don't need a 30 foottrailer. And who can plan so far into the future as never havingintensions of trailering. What if you have a mishap in some far awayfield and can't fly out. The 3 piece wing is slightly heavier, but Ithink well worth the effort.Regards,Domenico/Toronto________________________________________________________________________________
Brad Schultz wrote:> > Can anyone give me a good reason to build the three piece wing if I> don't ever have any intention of hauling the plane on a trailer? That's> probably the sure way to get it damaged is by some idiot in a car on the> freeway.> > Brad Schultz> brsch(at)afcon.comHi Brad,I chose the three piece wing and built it as such for ease of Assembly,you can do it yourself; for ease of transport, you don't need a 30 foottrailer. And who can plan so far into the future as never havingintensions of trailering. What if you have a mishap in some far awayfield and can't fly out. The 3 piece wing is slightly heavier, but Ithink well worth the effort.Regards,Domenico/Toronto________________________________________________________________________________
Pietenpol-List: Re: Wing
Original Posted By: GMalley(at)aol.com
Brad Schultz wrote:> Can anyone give me a good reason to build the three piece wing if I> don't ever have any intention of hauling the plane on a trailer?> That's> probably the sure way to get it damaged is by some idiot in a car on> the> freeway.>> Brad Schultz> brsch(at)afcon.com Sure.You have as single car garage of 12 by 20 feet.: )Steve________________________________________________________________________________
Brad Schultz wrote:> Can anyone give me a good reason to build the three piece wing if I> don't ever have any intention of hauling the plane on a trailer?> That's> probably the sure way to get it damaged is by some idiot in a car on> the> freeway.>> Brad Schultz> brsch(at)afcon.com Sure.You have as single car garage of 12 by 20 feet.: )Steve________________________________________________________________________________
Pietenpol-List: Re: Wing
Original Posted By: Michael D Cuy
On two occasions in the last 7 years I have experienced damage to the Pietwhile far from home (broken landing gear and splintered prop from rough fieldand a ditch). Both times I was easily able to remove the wings and totransport the aircraft in a U-Haul. Once repaired, reassembly wasstraightforward. With the exception of lifting it into the truck, I was ableto perform all of the work alone.Jim Malley________________________________________________________________________________
On two occasions in the last 7 years I have experienced damage to the Pietwhile far from home (broken landing gear and splintered prop from rough fieldand a ditch). Both times I was easily able to remove the wings and totransport the aircraft in a U-Haul. Once repaired, reassembly wasstraightforward. With the exception of lifting it into the truck, I was ableto perform all of the work alone.Jim Malley________________________________________________________________________________
Pietenpol-List: Re: Wing
Original Posted By: dcsBell(at)netcom.ca
>Can anyone give me a good reason to build the three piece wing if I>don't ever have any intention of hauling the plane on a trailer? Brad- Here's my take on the advantages of the 3pc wing: 1) Involves no splicing of wood spars.2) Requires 1/2 the space to build and store-lengthwise.3) Panels can be moved, flipped, etc. by you only- never have to ask forhelp-until after cover.4) Two sawhorses and you are in business. No need to build a 30' long table.5) If you scrape a wingtip someday you only have to rebuild one panel.6) My friends wife, Kathy Meyers hurt her shoulder and neck helping flipEarl's 1 pce wing last year. (and to boot she won't get a ride because it is a singleseat Scout)7) You can incorporate a little diehedral if you like.8) The weight issue of the center section is a factor, but many are builtlike that with overall low empty weights. (The center section won't make your plane ahog.)9) You can rig the entire airplane outside with no help. I did it.10)Off field landing someday ?? Maybe it will have to come apart to gethome easily.11)A whole Piet can be stored easily in a single car garage with the 3pcwing. Ask Steve E.These are the neatest airplanes, Mike C>________________________________________________________________________________
>Can anyone give me a good reason to build the three piece wing if I>don't ever have any intention of hauling the plane on a trailer? Brad- Here's my take on the advantages of the 3pc wing: 1) Involves no splicing of wood spars.2) Requires 1/2 the space to build and store-lengthwise.3) Panels can be moved, flipped, etc. by you only- never have to ask forhelp-until after cover.4) Two sawhorses and you are in business. No need to build a 30' long table.5) If you scrape a wingtip someday you only have to rebuild one panel.6) My friends wife, Kathy Meyers hurt her shoulder and neck helping flipEarl's 1 pce wing last year. (and to boot she won't get a ride because it is a singleseat Scout)7) You can incorporate a little diehedral if you like.8) The weight issue of the center section is a factor, but many are builtlike that with overall low empty weights. (The center section won't make your plane ahog.)9) You can rig the entire airplane outside with no help. I did it.10)Off field landing someday ?? Maybe it will have to come apart to gethome easily.11)A whole Piet can be stored easily in a single car garage with the 3pcwing. Ask Steve E.These are the neatest airplanes, Mike C>________________________________________________________________________________
Pietenpol-List: Re: Wing
Original Posted By: Brad Schultz
Michael D Cuy wrote:> > >Can anyone give me a good reason to build the three piece wing if I> >don't ever have any intention of hauling the plane on a trailer?> > Brad- Here's my take on the advantages of the 3pc wing:> 1) Involves no splicing of wood spars.> 2) Requires 1/2 the space to build and store-lengthwise.> 3) Panels can be moved, flipped, etc. by you only- never have to ask for> help-until after cover.> 4) Two sawhorses and you are in business. No need to build a 30' long table.> 5) If you scrape a wingtip someday you only have to rebuild one panel.> 6) My friends wife, Kathy Meyers hurt her shoulder and neck helping flip> Earl's 1 pce wing> last year. (and to boot she won't get a ride because it is a single> seat Scout)> 7) You can incorporate a little diehedral if you like.> 8) The weight issue of the center section is a factor, but many are built> like that with> overall low empty weights. (The center section won't make your plane a> hog.)> 9) You can rig the entire airplane outside with no help. I did it.> 10)Off field landing someday ?? Maybe it will have to come apart to get> home easily.> 11)A whole Piet can be stored easily in a single car garage with the 3pc> wing. Ask Steve E.> > These are the neatest airplanes, Mike C>I certainly agree with all of the above. Go for it, be sensible notnostalgic. Domenico________________________________________________________________________________
Michael D Cuy wrote:> > >Can anyone give me a good reason to build the three piece wing if I> >don't ever have any intention of hauling the plane on a trailer?> > Brad- Here's my take on the advantages of the 3pc wing:> 1) Involves no splicing of wood spars.> 2) Requires 1/2 the space to build and store-lengthwise.> 3) Panels can be moved, flipped, etc. by you only- never have to ask for> help-until after cover.> 4) Two sawhorses and you are in business. No need to build a 30' long table.> 5) If you scrape a wingtip someday you only have to rebuild one panel.> 6) My friends wife, Kathy Meyers hurt her shoulder and neck helping flip> Earl's 1 pce wing> last year. (and to boot she won't get a ride because it is a single> seat Scout)> 7) You can incorporate a little diehedral if you like.> 8) The weight issue of the center section is a factor, but many are built> like that with> overall low empty weights. (The center section won't make your plane a> hog.)> 9) You can rig the entire airplane outside with no help. I did it.> 10)Off field landing someday ?? Maybe it will have to come apart to get> home easily.> 11)A whole Piet can be stored easily in a single car garage with the 3pc> wing. Ask Steve E.> > These are the neatest airplanes, Mike C>I certainly agree with all of the above. Go for it, be sensible notnostalgic. Domenico________________________________________________________________________________
Pietenpol-List: Re: Wing
Original Posted By:> ADonJr(at)aol.com
Pietenpol-List: Re: Wing
Original Posted By: Doug Hunt
Now that we have that out of the way...who has the good drawings for thethree piece wing. I have the Grega drawings, but I wonder if there is abetter, or at least an alternate set someone would recommend.Thanx, Don________________________________________________________________________________
Now that we have that out of the way...who has the good drawings for thethree piece wing. I have the Grega drawings, but I wonder if there is abetter, or at least an alternate set someone would recommend.Thanx, Don________________________________________________________________________________
Pietenpol-List: Re: Wing
Original Posted By: Ian Holland
>Now that we have that out of the way...who has the good drawings for the>three piece wing. I have the Grega drawings, but I wonder if there is a>better, or at least an alternate set someone would recommend.>Thanx, Don>Don- Grant MacLaren's homepage for Piets shows Vi Kapler's addresssomewhere for the 3 pce wing. Gary Price of Yesterday's Wings (also found on the BPAN page)has planstoo...I think a 'no-gap' type design. One thing newer Piet folks should be aware of is that the Grega design doesnot allow youto shift the wing fore and aft to adjust your CG as does the Piet wing.That's why the Pietcan accommodate so many different powerplants. (and various pilot weights)In the Grega you have to shift CG in some other fashion, ie lengthening orshortening the motor mount, ballast, .... Mike C . ________________________________________________________________________________
>Now that we have that out of the way...who has the good drawings for the>three piece wing. I have the Grega drawings, but I wonder if there is a>better, or at least an alternate set someone would recommend.>Thanx, Don>Don- Grant MacLaren's homepage for Piets shows Vi Kapler's addresssomewhere for the 3 pce wing. Gary Price of Yesterday's Wings (also found on the BPAN page)has planstoo...I think a 'no-gap' type design. One thing newer Piet folks should be aware of is that the Grega design doesnot allow youto shift the wing fore and aft to adjust your CG as does the Piet wing.That's why the Pietcan accommodate so many different powerplants. (and various pilot weights)In the Grega you have to shift CG in some other fashion, ie lengthening orshortening the motor mount, ballast, .... Mike C . ________________________________________________________________________________
Pietenpol-List: Re: Wing
Original Posted By:> Doug Hunt
I obtained bothh the Grega plans and the plans from Don Pietenpol includingthe 3 piece wing suppliment. I am very happy with the package supplied byDon and elected to build from those. If any one wants an unused Grega set,give me a call. First $20 US gets them. I am fitting the spars to thecenter section now, and everything is going well. It is staight forward,relatively simple, and fits.
I obtained bothh the Grega plans and the plans from Don Pietenpol includingthe 3 piece wing suppliment. I am very happy with the package supplied byDon and elected to build from those. If any one wants an unused Grega set,give me a call. First $20 US gets them. I am fitting the spars to thecenter section now, and everything is going well. It is staight forward,relatively simple, and fits.
Re: Pietenpol-List: Wing
Original Posted By: catdesigns(at)att.net
Varnishing under metal fittings-is the proper procedure. Don't forget to varnish inside all bolt holes.-Greg Cardinal----- Original Message -----
Varnishing under metal fittings-is the proper procedure. Don't forget to varnish inside all bolt holes.-Greg Cardinal----- Original Message -----
Re: Pietenpol-List: Wing
Original Posted By: catdesigns(at)att.net
Varnishing under metal fittings is the proper procedure. Don't forget tovarnish inside all bolt holes.Greg Cardinal----- Original Message -----
Varnishing under metal fittings is the proper procedure. Don't forget tovarnish inside all bolt holes.Greg Cardinal----- Original Message -----
Re: Pietenpol-List: Wing
Original Posted By: catdesigns(at)att.net
Varnishing under metal fittings is the proper procedure. Don't forget to varnishinside all bolt holes.Greg Cardinal----- Original Message -----
Varnishing under metal fittings is the proper procedure. Don't forget to varnishinside all bolt holes.Greg Cardinal----- Original Message -----
Re: Pietenpol-List: Wing
Original Posted By: catdesigns(at)att.net
Varnishing under metal fittings=C2-is the proper procedure. Don't forget to varnish inside all bolt holes.=C2-Greg Cardinal----- Original Message -----
Varnishing under metal fittings=C2-is the proper procedure. Don't forget to varnish inside all bolt holes.=C2-Greg Cardinal----- Original Message -----
Re: Pietenpol-List: Wing
Original Posted By: catdesigns(at)att.net
Varnishing under metal fittings is the proper procedure. Don't forget to varnish inside all bolt holes. Greg Cardinal ----- Original Message -----
Varnishing under metal fittings is the proper procedure. Don't forget to varnish inside all bolt holes. Greg Cardinal ----- Original Message -----
Re: Pietenpol-List: Wing
Original Posted By:
Varnishing under metal fittings is the proper procedure. Don't forget tovarnish inside all bolt holes.Greg Cardinal----- Original Message -----
Varnishing under metal fittings is the proper procedure. Don't forget tovarnish inside all bolt holes.Greg Cardinal----- Original Message -----
RE: Pietenpol-List: Wing
Original Posted By: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto: owner-pietenpol-li
Man, that=99s a LOT of varnishing to be done at one time.=C2- Given that varnish takes a long time (several days) to dry between coats, you might do better to be varnishing one portion while working on building another =93 for example, put a coat of varnish on your spars while working on the fuselage.=C2-You will want at least two coats of varnish on everything.=C2- Whether using epoxy varnish (my personal recommendation), a 2 part polyurethane varnish (next best) or a one can Home Depot variety of polyurethane spar varnish (check to make sure it won=99t be lifted by the covering materials), you will get best protection by thinning the first coat about 50/50 with reducer so it will soak into the wood more easily.=C2- Then put a full strength coat over that.=C2- Make sure you get into all the little nooks and crannies (what exactly is the difference between a nook and a cranny?), particularly in the ribs and tail section.=C2-Just my 2=C2=A2 worth.=C2-Jack PhillipsNX899JPRaleigh, NC=C2-
Man, that=99s a LOT of varnishing to be done at one time.=C2- Given that varnish takes a long time (several days) to dry between coats, you might do better to be varnishing one portion while working on building another =93 for example, put a coat of varnish on your spars while working on the fuselage.=C2-You will want at least two coats of varnish on everything.=C2- Whether using epoxy varnish (my personal recommendation), a 2 part polyurethane varnish (next best) or a one can Home Depot variety of polyurethane spar varnish (check to make sure it won=99t be lifted by the covering materials), you will get best protection by thinning the first coat about 50/50 with reducer so it will soak into the wood more easily.=C2- Then put a full strength coat over that.=C2- Make sure you get into all the little nooks and crannies (what exactly is the difference between a nook and a cranny?), particularly in the ribs and tail section.=C2-Just my 2=C2=A2 worth.=C2-Jack PhillipsNX899JPRaleigh, NC=C2-
RE: Pietenpol-List: Wing
Original Posted By: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:
Man, that=99s a LOT of varnishing to be done at one time. Given that varnish takes a long time (several days) to dry between coats, you might do better to be varnishing one portion while working on building another =93 for example, put a coat of varnish on your spars while working on the fuselage. You will want at least two coats of varnish on everything. Whether using epoxy varnish (my personal recommendation), a 2 part polyurethane varnish (next best) or a one can Home Depot variety of polyurethane spar varnish (check to make sure it won=99t be lifted by the covering materials), you will get best protection by thinning the first coat about 50/50 with reducer so it will soak into the wood more easily. Then put a full strength coat over that. Make sure you get into all the little nooks and crannies (what exactly is the difference between a nook and a cranny?), particularly in the ribs and tail section. Just my 2=C2=A2 worth. Jack Phillips NX899JP Raleigh, NC----------------------------------------------------------------------
Man, that=99s a LOT of varnishing to be done at one time. Given that varnish takes a long time (several days) to dry between coats, you might do better to be varnishing one portion while working on building another =93 for example, put a coat of varnish on your spars while working on the fuselage. You will want at least two coats of varnish on everything. Whether using epoxy varnish (my personal recommendation), a 2 part polyurethane varnish (next best) or a one can Home Depot variety of polyurethane spar varnish (check to make sure it won=99t be lifted by the covering materials), you will get best protection by thinning the first coat about 50/50 with reducer so it will soak into the wood more easily. Then put a full strength coat over that. Make sure you get into all the little nooks and crannies (what exactly is the difference between a nook and a cranny?), particularly in the ribs and tail section. Just my 2=C2=A2 worth. Jack Phillips NX899JP Raleigh, NC----------------------------------------------------------------------
RE: Pietenpol-List: Wing
Original Posted By: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:
Man, that=92s a LOT of varnishing to be done at one time. Given that varnishtakes a long time (several days) to dry between coats, you might do betterto be varnishing one portion while working on building another ' forexample, put a coat of varnish on your spars while working on the fuselage.You will want at least two coats of varnish on everything. Whether usingepoxy varnish (my personal recommendation), a 2 part polyurethane varnish(next best) or a one can Home Depot variety of polyurethane spar varnish(check to make sure it won=92t be lifted by the covering materials), you willget best protection by thinning the first coat about 50/50 with reducer soit will soak into the wood more easily. Then put a full strength coat overthat. Make sure you get into all the little nooks and crannies (whatexactly is the difference between a nook and a cranny?), particularly in theribs and tail section. Just my 2=A2 worth. Jack Phillips NX899JP Raleigh, NC _____
Man, that=92s a LOT of varnishing to be done at one time. Given that varnishtakes a long time (several days) to dry between coats, you might do betterto be varnishing one portion while working on building another ' forexample, put a coat of varnish on your spars while working on the fuselage.You will want at least two coats of varnish on everything. Whether usingepoxy varnish (my personal recommendation), a 2 part polyurethane varnish(next best) or a one can Home Depot variety of polyurethane spar varnish(check to make sure it won=92t be lifted by the covering materials), you willget best protection by thinning the first coat about 50/50 with reducer soit will soak into the wood more easily. Then put a full strength coat overthat. Make sure you get into all the little nooks and crannies (whatexactly is the difference between a nook and a cranny?), particularly in theribs and tail section. Just my 2=A2 worth. Jack Phillips NX899JP Raleigh, NC _____
Re: Pietenpol-List: Wing
Original Posted By: Michael Perez
I have successfully sprayed Minwax Polycrylic (which is an indoor acrlic finish) with an HVLP sprayer. It sprays nicest with no thinning.This was for kitchen cabinets - not an airplane. The Polycrylic dries in two hours, repeat, hours, and is water-based, so clean-up was easy and I had no worries of explosion in the shop. I tested the dried Polycrylic with water and it held up well. Must confess, though, I didn't weight the sample before and after. But the finish sample didn't degrade after a week in the water.I'd think this would work perfectly well for covered parts. But the directions say to sand between coats, so that might be an issue.For many finishes, you can buy small jars or cans. That lets you try a few.David Paulele, List Admin.________________________________________________________________________________Date: Thu, 28 Jan 2010 11:39:29 -0800 (PST)
I have successfully sprayed Minwax Polycrylic (which is an indoor acrlic finish) with an HVLP sprayer. It sprays nicest with no thinning.This was for kitchen cabinets - not an airplane. The Polycrylic dries in two hours, repeat, hours, and is water-based, so clean-up was easy and I had no worries of explosion in the shop. I tested the dried Polycrylic with water and it held up well. Must confess, though, I didn't weight the sample before and after. But the finish sample didn't degrade after a week in the water.I'd think this would work perfectly well for covered parts. But the directions say to sand between coats, so that might be an issue.For many finishes, you can buy small jars or cans. That lets you try a few.David Paulele, List Admin.________________________________________________________________________________Date: Thu, 28 Jan 2010 11:39:29 -0800 (PST)
Re: Pietenpol-List: Wing
Original Posted By: catdesigns(at)att.net
Varnishing under metal fittings is the proper procedure. Don't forget to varnish inside all bolt holes.Greg Cardinal ----- Original Message -----
Varnishing under metal fittings is the proper procedure. Don't forget to varnish inside all bolt holes.Greg Cardinal ----- Original Message -----
Re: Pietenpol-List: Wing
Original Posted By:> catdesigns(at)att.net
Q-tips work well for holes...JackDSMSent from my iPhoneOn Jan 28, 2010, at 6:47 AM, "gcardinal" wrote:> Varnishing under metal fittings is the proper procedure. Don't > forget to varnish inside all bolt holes.>> Greg Cardinal> ----- Original Message -----
Q-tips work well for holes...JackDSMSent from my iPhoneOn Jan 28, 2010, at 6:47 AM, "gcardinal" wrote:> Varnishing under metal fittings is the proper procedure. Don't > forget to varnish inside all bolt holes.>> Greg Cardinal> ----- Original Message -----
> Pietenpol-List: Wing
Original Posted By: Michael Perez
Pietenpol-List: Wing
Original Posted By: Jim Markle
Re: Pietenpol-List: Wing
Original Posted By: gcardinal
except, don't forget, once the leading edge plywood is on, you cannot get the forward strut fitting off. Varnish under that one and install before installing leading edge.Gene ----- Original Message -----
except, don't forget, once the leading edge plywood is on, you cannot get the forward strut fitting off. Varnish under that one and install before installing leading edge.Gene ----- Original Message -----
RE: Pietenpol-List: Wing
Original Posted By: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
Man, that=92s a LOT of varnishing to be done at one time. Given that varnishtakes a long time (several days) to dry between coats, you might do betterto be varnishing one portion while working on building another ' forexample, put a coat of varnish on your spars while working on the fuselage.You will want at least two coats of varnish on everything. Whether usingepoxy varnish (my personal recommendation), a 2 part polyurethane varnish(next best) or a one can Home Depot variety of polyurethane spar varnish(check to make sure it won=92t be lifted by the covering materials), you willget best protection by thinning the first coat about 50/50 with reducer soit will soak into the wood more easily. Then put a full strength coat overthat. Make sure you get into all the little nooks and crannies (whatexactly is the difference between a nook and a cranny?), particularly in theribs and tail section.Just my 2=A2 worth.Jack PhillipsNX899JPRaleigh, NC _____
Man, that=92s a LOT of varnishing to be done at one time. Given that varnishtakes a long time (several days) to dry between coats, you might do betterto be varnishing one portion while working on building another ' forexample, put a coat of varnish on your spars while working on the fuselage.You will want at least two coats of varnish on everything. Whether usingepoxy varnish (my personal recommendation), a 2 part polyurethane varnish(next best) or a one can Home Depot variety of polyurethane spar varnish(check to make sure it won=92t be lifted by the covering materials), you willget best protection by thinning the first coat about 50/50 with reducer soit will soak into the wood more easily. Then put a full strength coat overthat. Make sure you get into all the little nooks and crannies (whatexactly is the difference between a nook and a cranny?), particularly in theribs and tail section.Just my 2=A2 worth.Jack PhillipsNX899JPRaleigh, NC _____
Pietenpol-List: Wing
Original Posted By: "TOM STINEMETZE"
RE: Pietenpol-List: Wing
Original Posted By: greg menoche
Pietenpol-List: Wing
Original Posted By: Jim Markle
RE: Pietenpol-List: Wing
Original Posted By: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim Markle
Group,On the topic of varnish...can it be sprayed on rather than brushed on? It seemsit would be much faster and easier, unless the varnish is too thick to spray.BrianSLC-UT-----Original Message-----
Group,On the topic of varnish...can it be sprayed on rather than brushed on? It seemsit would be much faster and easier, unless the varnish is too thick to spray.BrianSLC-UT-----Original Message-----
RE: Pietenpol-List: Wing
Original Posted By: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff Boatright
I was thinking more on the lines of spraying varnish out of the gallon can throughmy industrial paint sprayer, I would think the varnish would be too thickto spray through my automotive paint sprayer.BrianSLC-UT-----Original Message-----
I was thinking more on the lines of spraying varnish out of the gallon can throughmy industrial paint sprayer, I would think the varnish would be too thickto spray through my automotive paint sprayer.BrianSLC-UT-----Original Message-----
Pietenpol-List: Wing
Original Posted By: Jack
Greg asked->could you just dip the rib in a pan of varnish>instead of Qtip and brush method?Just to throw out another idea, there was anarticle and photos in one of the old newsletterswhere a builder connected a pump-type oil canto a paintbrush with some clear tubing andpumped varnish to the brush as he went, whichis much faster than dipping the brush in a can.I don't remember which issue but the concept issimple enough...Oscar ZunigaAir Camper NX41CCSan Antonio, TXmailto: taildrags(at)hotmail.comwebsite at http://www.flysquirrel.net ________________________________________________________________________________
Greg asked->could you just dip the rib in a pan of varnish>instead of Qtip and brush method?Just to throw out another idea, there was anarticle and photos in one of the old newsletterswhere a builder connected a pump-type oil canto a paintbrush with some clear tubing andpumped varnish to the brush as he went, whichis much faster than dipping the brush in a can.I don't remember which issue but the concept issimple enough...Oscar ZunigaAir Camper NX41CCSan Antonio, TXmailto: taildrags(at)hotmail.comwebsite at http://www.flysquirrel.net ________________________________________________________________________________
Re: RE: Pietenpol-List: Wing
Original Posted By:> owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-
Sprayed my wings, Ace spar varnish diluted 10 percentJackDSMSent from my iPhoneOn Jan 28, 2010, at 9:31 AM, brian.e.jardine@l-3com.com wrote:>> Group,> On the topic of varnish...can it be sprayed on rather than brushed > on? It seems it would be much faster and easier, unless the varnish > is too thick to spray.>> Brian> SLC-UT>>> -----Original Message-----
Sprayed my wings, Ace spar varnish diluted 10 percentJackDSMSent from my iPhoneOn Jan 28, 2010, at 9:31 AM, brian.e.jardine@l-3com.com wrote:>> Group,> On the topic of varnish...can it be sprayed on rather than brushed > on? It seems it would be much faster and easier, unless the varnish > is too thick to spray.>> Brian> SLC-UT>>> -----Original Message-----
Re: Pietenpol-List: Wing
Original Posted By: Ryan Mueller
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Wing
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Wing
Re: Pietenpol-List: Wing
Original Posted By: "Perry Rhoads"
I have successfully sprayed Minwax Polycrylic (which is an indoor acrlic finish) with an HVLP sprayer. It sprays nicest with no thinning.This was for kitchen cabinets - not an airplane. The Polycrylic dries in two hours, repeat, hours, and is water-based, so clean-up was easy and I had no worries of explosion in the shop. I tested the dried Polycrylic with water and it held up well. Must confess, though, I didn't weight the sample before and after. But the finish sample didn't degrade after a week in the water.I'd think this would work perfectly well for covered parts. But the directions say to sand between coats, so that might be an issue.For many finishes, you can buy small jars or cans. That lets you try a few.David Paule________________________________________________________________________________
I have successfully sprayed Minwax Polycrylic (which is an indoor acrlic finish) with an HVLP sprayer. It sprays nicest with no thinning.This was for kitchen cabinets - not an airplane. The Polycrylic dries in two hours, repeat, hours, and is water-based, so clean-up was easy and I had no worries of explosion in the shop. I tested the dried Polycrylic with water and it held up well. Must confess, though, I didn't weight the sample before and after. But the finish sample didn't degrade after a week in the water.I'd think this would work perfectly well for covered parts. But the directions say to sand between coats, so that might be an issue.For many finishes, you can buy small jars or cans. That lets you try a few.David Paule________________________________________________________________________________
Pietenpol-List: Intercom
Original Posted By: Jim Ash
Any suggestions for a portable intercom that works well in the open cockpit environment?Perry RhoadsN12939________________________________________________________________________________Date: Thu, 28 Jan 2010 13:07:07 -0500 (GMT-05:00)
Any suggestions for a portable intercom that works well in the open cockpit environment?Perry RhoadsN12939________________________________________________________________________________Date: Thu, 28 Jan 2010 13:07:07 -0500 (GMT-05:00)
Re: Pietenpol-List: Intercom
Original Posted By: Dan Yocum
Perry if you are electronic capable, do an google on "intercom schematics" otherwise there are several commercial solutions that revolve around motorcycle intercoms, also many of the GMRS radios can be fitted with headsetsJake"Perry Rhoads" Sent by: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com01/28/2010 11:47 AMPlease respond topietenpol-list(at)matronics.comToccSubjectPietenpol-List: IntercomAny suggestions for a portable intercom that works well in the open cockpit environment?Perry RhoadsN12939________________________________________________________________________This email has been scanned for SPAM content and Viruses by the MessageLabs Email Security System.________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________Date: Thu, 28 Jan 2010 12:13:46 -0600
Perry if you are electronic capable, do an google on "intercom schematics" otherwise there are several commercial solutions that revolve around motorcycle intercoms, also many of the GMRS radios can be fitted with headsetsJake"Perry Rhoads" Sent by: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com01/28/2010 11:47 AMPlease respond topietenpol-list(at)matronics.comToccSubjectPietenpol-List: IntercomAny suggestions for a portable intercom that works well in the open cockpit environment?Perry RhoadsN12939________________________________________________________________________This email has been scanned for SPAM content and Viruses by the MessageLabs Email Security System.________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________Date: Thu, 28 Jan 2010 12:13:46 -0600
Re: Pietenpol-List: Intercom
Original Posted By: Michael Perez
Pietenpol-List: Wing
Original Posted By: Ben Charvet
Re: Pietenpol-List: Wing
Original Posted By: Ben Charvet
Re: Pietenpol-List: Another Airworthiness inspection scheduled.
Original Posted By: "Ben Charvet"
Ben,Glad to hear your Piet is ready. I would like to come down again and take a look at it (you shouldn't have fed me the pizza). I just finished a Rans S6S and am getting it inspected tomorrow. After that I'll have to get tailwheel lessons and fly off the 40 hrs. Good luck on your inspection. I'm still working on the Piet in Ohio.Tim WhiteWoods and Lakes, Ocklawaha, Fl----- Original Message -----
Ben,Glad to hear your Piet is ready. I would like to come down again and take a look at it (you shouldn't have fed me the pizza). I just finished a Rans S6S and am getting it inspected tomorrow. After that I'll have to get tailwheel lessons and fly off the 40 hrs. Good luck on your inspection. I'm still working on the Piet in Ohio.Tim WhiteWoods and Lakes, Ocklawaha, Fl----- Original Message -----
Pietenpol-List: Another Airworthiness inspection scheduled.
Original Posted By: Michael Perez
Pietenpol-List: Re: Wing
Original Posted By:
I use a cheap spraygun that has a screw on cannister. It pressurizes whenthe gun is in use. It sprays varnish without thinning very good. I use 20 #.30# if outdoors where overspray is not a deal. I think it's called an internalmix. My small compressor keeps up with it nicely. I have a Binks that would work great but I no longer have a big compressor. It wants 8 or 10 CFM.--------Jerry Dotson59 Daniel Johnson RdBaker, FL 32531Started building NX510JD July, 2009Ribs and tailfeathers doneusing Lycoming O-235Read this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... __________
I use a cheap spraygun that has a screw on cannister. It pressurizes whenthe gun is in use. It sprays varnish without thinning very good. I use 20 #.30# if outdoors where overspray is not a deal. I think it's called an internalmix. My small compressor keeps up with it nicely. I have a Binks that would work great but I no longer have a big compressor. It wants 8 or 10 CFM.--------Jerry Dotson59 Daniel Johnson RdBaker, FL 32531Started building NX510JD July, 2009Ribs and tailfeathers doneusing Lycoming O-235Read this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... __________
Re: Pietenpol-List: Wing
Original Posted By: Michael Perez
You guys crack me up with some of your responses. I'm with Mike P. on this, as I plan on building and fit everything before it gets varnished, sealed, coated and what not. I was just worried that removing the wires and fittings would mess up the trueness of the wing but after looking at Jack Texters pictures I think I will be fine. Thanks for the pictures on your website Jack.ChrisSacramento, CAWestCoastPiet.com ----- Original Message -----
You guys crack me up with some of your responses. I'm with Mike P. on this, as I plan on building and fit everything before it gets varnished, sealed, coated and what not. I was just worried that removing the wires and fittings would mess up the trueness of the wing but after looking at Jack Texters pictures I think I will be fine. Thanks for the pictures on your website Jack.ChrisSacramento, CAWestCoastPiet.com ----- Original Message -----
RE: Pietenpol-List: Wing
Original Posted By: Michael Perez
Thank you Chris for your site! One day when I get a minute I plan to getworking on mine with updates.JackDSMYou guys crack me up with some of your responses. I'm with Mike P. on this, as I plan on building and fit everything before itgets varnished, sealed, coated and what not. I was just worried thatremoving the wires and fittings would mess up the trueness of the wing butafter looking at Jack Texters pictures I think I will be fine. Thanks forthe pictures on your website Jack.ChrisSacramento, CAWestCoastPiet.com----- Original Message -----
Thank you Chris for your site! One day when I get a minute I plan to getworking on mine with updates.JackDSMYou guys crack me up with some of your responses. I'm with Mike P. on this, as I plan on building and fit everything before itgets varnished, sealed, coated and what not. I was just worried thatremoving the wires and fittings would mess up the trueness of the wing butafter looking at Jack Texters pictures I think I will be fine. Thanks forthe pictures on your website Jack.ChrisSacramento, CAWestCoastPiet.com----- Original Message -----
>>> Pietenpol-List: Wing
Original Posted By: "Jack Phillips"
Subject: Pietenpol-List: spraying varnish on wings/ tailsurfacesI sprayed my wings and tailsurfaces over a gravel driveway on two simple sawhorsesusing Minwax Fast Dry Polyurethane spar varnish (thinned even more with more mineralspirits than the fast dry already has in it) thru a Better Homes and Garden typeHudsonor bug sprayer pump up unit. To coat the wing I basically adjusted the spray nozzle to get an appropriate fan,set outsome iced beer in a cooler in the garage then once one side was dripping nicelyI'd flipthe wing over so the drips would run down into other bare areas and hit that sidewiththe sprayer. I'd keep flipping the wing and dab areas of dripping or dry areaswith a 2"brush and then the next day repeat the process. I think I have 2 or 3 coats onthe wingof the thinned fast-dry stuff. For all other parts of the airplane I used thenormalMinwax spar urethane (not thinned at the factory or by me) with a brush until Iwas happywith the appearance--especially inside the cockpit areas where everyone sees. I allowed many weeks and in some cases months to pass before applying fabric cement(MEKin my case) but was advised by the old IA's and A&P's at the local airport to sprayanautomotive DuPont 222S sanding sealer over any area that would see solvent. Backto theBetter Homes and Garden bug sprayer with a gallon or two of that stuff that I foundat alocal NAPA store. The stuff goes on like water, dries in less than 5 minutes. Two coats of that insure that the MEK won't attack your varnish. Some builders painta 2-partepoxy on any varnished surfaces where they anticipate solvents to be used in fabricworkso that the solvent won't soften the varnish. I thought that was too heavy andif thismethod of sanding sealer worked for guys in their 70's and 80's who had been restoringairplanes for 60 years then it was good enough for me. Caution-- the sanding sealer won't guarantee that your solvent won't attack yourvarnish. The best policy for the sanding sealer to work is to allow your varnish to curefor manyweeks...at least 3 or 4 before applying the sanding sealer. Any sooner and you'dbetterjust use the 2-part epoxy where you are going to be applying solvent to do fabricattachingor finishing tape applications. Mike C. >-----Original Message----->From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-pietenpol->list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of brian.e.jardine(at)L-3Com.com>Sent: Thursday, January 28, 2010 11:16 AM>To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com>Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Wing>>>I was thinking more on the lines of spraying varnish out of the gallon>can through my industrial paint sprayer, I would think the varnish would>be too thick to spray through my automotive paint sprayer.>>Brian>SLC-UT>>>-----Original Message----->From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-pietenpol->list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff Boatright>Sent: Thursday, January 28, 2010 9:07 AM>To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com>Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Wing>>>I'm interested in this, too. Many types of>"varnish" are available in spray cans. Some are>true oil-based varnishes (Cabot sells this).>Others are urethane (just about all the major>players like Krylon sell their version of this),>and I guess there could be other types.>>One big concern I have about this use is whether>the solvents and propellants are compatible with>whatever glue you are using. Most of us use>epoxy, but many still use rescorcinol, and still>others are exploring the newer one-part glues. I>would not assume that the solvent mix in a spray>can is the same as the solvent in brush can, even>for the same varnish by the same maker.>>Of course, this may just be paranoia.>>Does anyone have experience with the various spray varnishes?>>>>>>Group,>>On the topic of varnish...can it be sprayed on>>rather than brushed on? It seems it would be>>much faster and easier, unless the varnish is>>too thick to spray.>>>>Brian>>SLC-UT>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>-----Original Message----->>From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com>>[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com]>>On Behalf Of Jim Markle>>Sent: Thursday, January 28, 2010 8:15 AM>>To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com>>Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Wing>>>>>>>Some have just put one coat of varnish on to>>save on weight. Or grind off any varnish OR>>epoxy drips, runs or squeeze out...to save>>weight.>>>>Dipping would probably be overkill in terms of>>quantity and I wonder how you would keep all>>those, ok I'll say it: nooks and crannys from>>retaining little puddles?>>>>Would probably work but I'll bet the time spent>>hand brushing would save some weight...and on>>the Pietenpol it ALL adds up!>>>>jm>>>>>>-----Original Message----->>>From: greg menoche >>>Sent: Jan 28, 2010 9:05 AM>>>To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com>>>Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Wing>>>>>>>>>>To save time, could you just dip the rib in a>>>pan of varnish instead of Qtip and brush>>>method? Greg Menoche>>>>>>-----Original Message----->>>From: Jack Phillips>>>Sent: Jan 28, 2010 9:11 AM>>>To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com>>>Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Wing>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>Man, that's a LOT of varnishing to be done at>>>one time. Given that varnish takes a long time>>>(several days) to dry between coats, you might>>>do better to be varnishing one portion while>>>working on building another - for example, put>>>a coat of varnish on your spars while working>>>on the fuselage.>>>>>>You will want at least two coats of varnish on>>>everything. Whether using epoxy varnish (my>>>personal recommendation), a 2 part polyurethane>>>varnish (next best) or a one can Home Depot>>>variety of polyurethane spar varnish (check to>>>make sure it won't be lifted by the covering>>>materials), you will get best protection by>>>thinning the first coat about 50/50 with>>>reducer so it will soak into the wood more>>>easily. Then put a full strength coat over>>>that. Make sure you get into all the little>>>nooks and crannies (what exactly is the>>>difference between a nook and a cranny?),>>>>particularly in the ribs and tail section.>>>>>>Just my 2 worth.>>>>>>Jack Phillips>>>NX899JP>>>Raleigh, NC>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com>>>[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com]>>>On Behalf Of Michael Perez>>>Sent: Thursday, January 28, 2010 8:18 AM>>>To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com>>>Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Wing>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>I plan to build the complete plane, minus>>>covering, all fitted together cables and all.>>>THEN take apart and varnish/stain just prior to>>>covering.>>>>>>--- On Thu, 1/28/10, gcardinal wrote:>>>>>>From: gcardinal >>>Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Wing>>>To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com>>>Date: Thursday, January 28, 2010, 7:47 AM>>>>>>>>>Varnishing under metal fittings is the proper>>>procedure. Don't forget to varnish inside all>>>bolt holes.>> >>>>>>>>>>Greg Cardinal>>>>>>>>>----- Original Message ----->>>>>>From: catdesigns(at)att.net>>>>>>To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com>>>>>>Sent: Thursday, January 28, 2010 1:52 AM>>>>>>Subject: Pietenpol-List: Wing>>>>>>>>>>>>For all you wing builders, I am planing on>>>building my wings (3-piece) completely then>>>take the fittings off to varnish the wood. Is>>>this ok or is this going to screw something up?>>>>>>>>>>>>Chris>>>Sacramento, CA>>>WestCoastPiet.com>>>href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Piet ... nics.com/c>>>" target=_blank>>>rel=nofollow>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Piet ... ==>>style=" font-size:10.0pt;color:black;>>>Forums!http://forums.matronics.com>>font-size:10.0pt;color:black;="================>>style=" font-size:10.0pt;color:black;>>>support!http://www.matronics.com/contribution>> ... __________
Subject: Pietenpol-List: spraying varnish on wings/ tailsurfacesI sprayed my wings and tailsurfaces over a gravel driveway on two simple sawhorsesusing Minwax Fast Dry Polyurethane spar varnish (thinned even more with more mineralspirits than the fast dry already has in it) thru a Better Homes and Garden typeHudsonor bug sprayer pump up unit. To coat the wing I basically adjusted the spray nozzle to get an appropriate fan,set outsome iced beer in a cooler in the garage then once one side was dripping nicelyI'd flipthe wing over so the drips would run down into other bare areas and hit that sidewiththe sprayer. I'd keep flipping the wing and dab areas of dripping or dry areaswith a 2"brush and then the next day repeat the process. I think I have 2 or 3 coats onthe wingof the thinned fast-dry stuff. For all other parts of the airplane I used thenormalMinwax spar urethane (not thinned at the factory or by me) with a brush until Iwas happywith the appearance--especially inside the cockpit areas where everyone sees. I allowed many weeks and in some cases months to pass before applying fabric cement(MEKin my case) but was advised by the old IA's and A&P's at the local airport to sprayanautomotive DuPont 222S sanding sealer over any area that would see solvent. Backto theBetter Homes and Garden bug sprayer with a gallon or two of that stuff that I foundat alocal NAPA store. The stuff goes on like water, dries in less than 5 minutes. Two coats of that insure that the MEK won't attack your varnish. Some builders painta 2-partepoxy on any varnished surfaces where they anticipate solvents to be used in fabricworkso that the solvent won't soften the varnish. I thought that was too heavy andif thismethod of sanding sealer worked for guys in their 70's and 80's who had been restoringairplanes for 60 years then it was good enough for me. Caution-- the sanding sealer won't guarantee that your solvent won't attack yourvarnish. The best policy for the sanding sealer to work is to allow your varnish to curefor manyweeks...at least 3 or 4 before applying the sanding sealer. Any sooner and you'dbetterjust use the 2-part epoxy where you are going to be applying solvent to do fabricattachingor finishing tape applications. Mike C. >-----Original Message----->From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-pietenpol->list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of brian.e.jardine(at)L-3Com.com>Sent: Thursday, January 28, 2010 11:16 AM>To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com>Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Wing>>>I was thinking more on the lines of spraying varnish out of the gallon>can through my industrial paint sprayer, I would think the varnish would>be too thick to spray through my automotive paint sprayer.>>Brian>SLC-UT>>>-----Original Message----->From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-pietenpol->list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff Boatright>Sent: Thursday, January 28, 2010 9:07 AM>To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com>Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Wing>>>I'm interested in this, too. Many types of>"varnish" are available in spray cans. Some are>true oil-based varnishes (Cabot sells this).>Others are urethane (just about all the major>players like Krylon sell their version of this),>and I guess there could be other types.>>One big concern I have about this use is whether>the solvents and propellants are compatible with>whatever glue you are using. Most of us use>epoxy, but many still use rescorcinol, and still>others are exploring the newer one-part glues. I>would not assume that the solvent mix in a spray>can is the same as the solvent in brush can, even>for the same varnish by the same maker.>>Of course, this may just be paranoia.>>Does anyone have experience with the various spray varnishes?>>>>>>Group,>>On the topic of varnish...can it be sprayed on>>rather than brushed on? It seems it would be>>much faster and easier, unless the varnish is>>too thick to spray.>>>>Brian>>SLC-UT>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>-----Original Message----->>From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com>>[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com]>>On Behalf Of Jim Markle>>Sent: Thursday, January 28, 2010 8:15 AM>>To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com>>Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Wing>>>>>>>Some have just put one coat of varnish on to>>save on weight. Or grind off any varnish OR>>epoxy drips, runs or squeeze out...to save>>weight.>>>>Dipping would probably be overkill in terms of>>quantity and I wonder how you would keep all>>those, ok I'll say it: nooks and crannys from>>retaining little puddles?>>>>Would probably work but I'll bet the time spent>>hand brushing would save some weight...and on>>the Pietenpol it ALL adds up!>>>>jm>>>>>>-----Original Message----->>>From: greg menoche >>>Sent: Jan 28, 2010 9:05 AM>>>To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com>>>Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Wing>>>>>>>>>>To save time, could you just dip the rib in a>>>pan of varnish instead of Qtip and brush>>>method? Greg Menoche>>>>>>-----Original Message----->>>From: Jack Phillips>>>Sent: Jan 28, 2010 9:11 AM>>>To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com>>>Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Wing>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>Man, that's a LOT of varnishing to be done at>>>one time. Given that varnish takes a long time>>>(several days) to dry between coats, you might>>>do better to be varnishing one portion while>>>working on building another - for example, put>>>a coat of varnish on your spars while working>>>on the fuselage.>>>>>>You will want at least two coats of varnish on>>>everything. Whether using epoxy varnish (my>>>personal recommendation), a 2 part polyurethane>>>varnish (next best) or a one can Home Depot>>>variety of polyurethane spar varnish (check to>>>make sure it won't be lifted by the covering>>>materials), you will get best protection by>>>thinning the first coat about 50/50 with>>>reducer so it will soak into the wood more>>>easily. Then put a full strength coat over>>>that. Make sure you get into all the little>>>nooks and crannies (what exactly is the>>>difference between a nook and a cranny?),>>>>particularly in the ribs and tail section.>>>>>>Just my 2 worth.>>>>>>Jack Phillips>>>NX899JP>>>Raleigh, NC>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com>>>[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com]>>>On Behalf Of Michael Perez>>>Sent: Thursday, January 28, 2010 8:18 AM>>>To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com>>>Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Wing>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>I plan to build the complete plane, minus>>>covering, all fitted together cables and all.>>>THEN take apart and varnish/stain just prior to>>>covering.>>>>>>--- On Thu, 1/28/10, gcardinal wrote:>>>>>>From: gcardinal >>>Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Wing>>>To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com>>>Date: Thursday, January 28, 2010, 7:47 AM>>>>>>>>>Varnishing under metal fittings is the proper>>>procedure. Don't forget to varnish inside all>>>bolt holes.>> >>>>>>>>>>Greg Cardinal>>>>>>>>>----- Original Message ----->>>>>>From: catdesigns(at)att.net>>>>>>To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com>>>>>>Sent: Thursday, January 28, 2010 1:52 AM>>>>>>Subject: Pietenpol-List: Wing>>>>>>>>>>>>For all you wing builders, I am planing on>>>building my wings (3-piece) completely then>>>take the fittings off to varnish the wood. Is>>>this ok or is this going to screw something up?>>>>>>>>>>>>Chris>>>Sacramento, CA>>>WestCoastPiet.com>>>href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Piet ... nics.com/c>>>" target=_blank>>>rel=nofollow>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Piet ... ==>>style=" font-size:10.0pt;color:black;>>>Forums!http://forums.matronics.com>>font-size:10.0pt;color:black;="================>>style=" font-size:10.0pt;color:black;>>>support!http://www.matronics.com/contribution>> ... __________
Pietenpol-List: Re: spraying varnish on wings/ tailsurfaces
Original Posted By: "taildrags"
I just read the article in the new Sport Aviation about Ken Perkin's and his"Time Machine". Good article, and great publicity for Pietenpols.Jack PhillipsNX899JPRaleigh, NC________________________________________________________________________________Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: spraying varnish on wings/ tailsurfaces
I just read the article in the new Sport Aviation about Ken Perkin's and his"Time Machine". Good article, and great publicity for Pietenpols.Jack PhillipsNX899JPRaleigh, NC________________________________________________________________________________Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: spraying varnish on wings/ tailsurfaces
Pietenpol-List: Re: Article on Ken Perkins
Original Posted By: "ivan.todorovic"
Yet another point in favor of the Stewart Systems water-based covering system,I guess. Although I have really grown to love and appreciate the smell of thePoly-Fiber materials, there are many positives to eliminating the solvent-basedcovering systems. I assume that the Stewart System materials wouldn't do athing to varnish of any type.--------Oscar ZunigaSan Antonio, TXAir Camper NX41CCRead this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ___Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Article on Ken Perkins
Yet another point in favor of the Stewart Systems water-based covering system,I guess. Although I have really grown to love and appreciate the smell of thePoly-Fiber materials, there are many positives to eliminating the solvent-basedcovering systems. I assume that the Stewart System materials wouldn't do athing to varnish of any type.--------Oscar ZunigaSan Antonio, TXAir Camper NX41CCRead this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ___Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Article on Ken Perkins
Original Posted By: Jeff Boatright
They've just published three nice links about Sky Scout:http://www.eaa.org/sportaviationmag/201 ... 11.pdfRead this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ______Date: Fri, 29 Jan 2010 18:07:21 -0500
They've just published three nice links about Sky Scout:http://www.eaa.org/sportaviationmag/201 ... 11.pdfRead this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ______Date: Fri, 29 Jan 2010 18:07:21 -0500
Re: Pietenpol-List: Article on Ken Perkins
Original Posted By: Jeff Boatright