Brodhead Pietenpol Association

Original Posted By: Alan Swanson
CrewLots of talk about working with wood/glue at low temperatures. Any problems I should be aware of when working at high temps (75-100F)?Gets kinda hot down here in the summerThanksRobOZ Piets: The only ones to fly inverted...________________________________________________________________________________

Original Posted By: rrager(at)idir.net (Rager)
>Crew>Lots of talk about working with wood/glue at low temperatures. Any >problems I should be aware of when working at high temps (75-100F)?>>Gets kinda hot down here in the summer>>Thanks>Rob>>OZ Piets: The only ones to fly inverted...>>Rob,In Australia any epoxy that the manufacturer states is suitable for glueingtimber can be deemed to be approved as long as the manufacturersINSTRUCTIONS are followed.I have used capital letters to emphasise thepoint. RTBI- Read the bloody instructions! This applies to all of us!Peter________________________________________________________________________________

Original Posted By: dannymac
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Glue>Any one else using the West system for glue? I am and I will probably use>it for varnish as well. I understand many wooden boats are using it. I>Just ripped up $100 Cdn worth of fir into longerons last week. Beautiful>piece of lumber with 35 rings to the inch. Have not found any vertical cut>lumber locally but should be able to get it ordered in. Got a set of old>Cleveland hubs, brakes and master cylinders plus 30 feet of streamlined>tube for the struts at a local airfield for a good price.> Good to know there are some builders close by, Ian and John. I fly on 435>sqn with Dennis Scharf, so I know him well. Guess that's all for now.>Wayne Sippola>Winnipeg>>________________________________________________________________________________

Original Posted By: Ian Holland
Any one else using the West system for glue? I am and I will probably useit for varnish as well. I understand many wooden boats are using it. IJust ripped up $100 Cdn worth of fir into longerons last week. Beautifulpiece of lumber with 35 rings to the inch. Have not found any vertical cutlumber locally but should be able to get it ordered in. Got a set of oldCleveland hubs, brakes and master cylinders plus 30 feet of streamlinedtube for the struts at a local airfield for a good price. Good to know there are some builders close by, Ian and John. I fly on435sqn with Dennis Scharf, so I know him well. Guess that's all for now.Wayne Sippola Winnipeg ________________________________________________________________________________

Original Posted By: Doug
Wayne,I suggest that you get in touch with Western Aircraft Suppliesin Calgary. Jean sells really nice spruce. I had mine sentto Rochester, NY from there.Dave________________________________________________________________________________

Original Posted By: wayne
WayneI have been using the West System and have no complaints about it at all areally good product. I aquired some syringes from the vet. that makemeasuring out small amounts easier than the pump system that came with thecans. Perhaps some day in the future we can host a Western Ontario, Easternpraires Piet gathering. John McPS Say hello to Dennis for me.-----Original Message-----

Original Posted By: John Fay
I've been using it on my Christavia MK 1, here in Calgary. I have foundthat it is ver strong and due to it's thin viscosity, it really works itsway into the wood. The only problem is that the same thin viscosity makesit poor for gap filling. I've been using a combination of T-88 forstructural joints and West-System stuff for laminations. As for using it as a varnish, keep in mind that it is NOT impervious toUV. If left untreated, it can detiorate over time. I built a canoe usingthe West-System epoxy and was warned of this from several sources. It wasactually finished with a UV protective varnish. However, I have heard thatthere is no problem applying fabric over the epoxy resigns. So, unless thearea is exposed to direct sunlight, go for it.Ken.On Sun, 9 May 1999, wayne wrote:> Any one else using the West system for glue? I am and I will probably use> it for varnish as well. I understand many wooden boats are using it. I> Just ripped up $100 Cdn worth of fir into longerons last week. Beautiful> piece of lumber with 35 rings to the inch. Have not found any vertical cut> lumber locally but should be able to get it ordered in. Got a set of old> Cleveland hubs, brakes and master cylinders plus 30 feet of streamlined> tube for the struts at a local airfield for a good price. > Good to know there are some builders close by, Ian and John. I fly on435> sqn with Dennis Scharf, so I know him well. Guess that's all for now.> Wayne Sippola > Winnipeg > ________________________________________________________________________________

Original Posted By: Gordon Brimhall
Most folks in central KS. are using Aero-Poxy. Probably because it'ssold by our local wood guru Gus Wiebe. Works fine. Here is a tip onmixing that worked for me. Get 2 Rubbermaid salad dressing squeezebottles. they are clear. Put your parts A&B in there separate bottles ,than you nerver have to mess with spoons again. Mix in medicine cups,like the one you see shrink rapped on top of your bottle of Pepto-Bismo.You can get these at hobby shops. R/Cars use them for mixing there 5min. epoxy. They have 5 different measurements marked on the side. Youmust mark the one you want with a sharpie before you add your glue,because the markings disappear when glue is put in cup. Squeeze thethicker part in first, to your mark, then add thinner part next to itsmark. Perfect measurement every time. You never get sticky fingers. Soapand water clean up before it sets. Mix and apply with toothpicks onsmall gussets, Popsickle sticks for bigger gussets. Mixing batches wasso easy and fast I even used these small cups on my biggest job, puttingon my plywood fus. sides. If you have a little glue left over in bottomof your cup, leave the tooth pick in and set aside for a few days. whencured,squeeze sides and bottom of cup to crack epoxy loose, usetoothpick as a handle to lift old glueplug out and cup is reusable LeonS.________________________________________________________________________________

Original Posted By: vistin(at)juno.com
I know we've all been through the glue thing so many times, but I want touse T-88 on the ribs for my Aeronca Ribs and 43.13-1B says the epoxyadhesive must have a Mil Spec, Aerospace Material Specification (AMS) orTechnical Service Order (TSO) for wooden aircraft structures. Does anyoneknow if T-88 fits into any of those categories? ThanksCopinfo(at)ix.Netcom.ComTim CunninghamDes Moines, Iowa (515) 237-1510________________________________________________________________________________

Original Posted By: Copinfo
Check the Archives PLeaseGordon----- Original Message -----________________________________________________________________________________

Original Posted By: "TED BROWN"
My plans have been ordered but a few questions can't wait. What is the glueof choice? Where do you solo the Air Camper from and how does it performwith an Cont. A65 with a 72/44. Are Champ style heel brakes workable intothe design? Will a small Scott tailwheel be adaptable?ThanksPete SmithLewistown, MT________________________________________________________________________________

Original Posted By: Michael D Cuy

Original Posted By: nle97(at)juno.com
I recommend "The West System" as an excellent glue. Originally designed for marine applications. Very strong epoxy. No smell/fumes. Easy to mix. Can work with it down to 60 degrees F. Not particularly cheap however. I get mine from WICKS in Illinois. Building in the garage>From: "Pete Smith" >>My plans have been ordered but a few questions can't wait. What is the glue>Thanks>>Pete Smith>Lewistown, MT>>________________________________________________________________________________Date: Thu, 2 Nov 2000 11:22:08 -0600Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Newbie question: Rudder Bar versus Pedals

Original Posted By: TomTravis(at)aol.com
Subject: Pietenpol-List: GlueFirst............let me classify by stating that I'm no high-faluting, high-stepping,sweet-smeller like some of those nawth'ern gents I was forced to associate with in the damn Army. BUT I'm at a point where Isabelle won't even hold my hand anymore and no one wants me at the bridge table so I can only turn to the Piet net for HELP.How do you get the residue, waste,spillage off your hands after using that new urethane glue? I've gone from soap & water, varsol, acetone to no avail. Please, someone come forth and help this pooooooooooor ,ooooooooooooold southern country boy.Corky in beauuuuuuuuuuuuutiful La________________________________________________________________________________

Original Posted By: Edwin Johnson
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: GlueCorky,Try mineral spirits followed by that orange hand cleaner. That works for me.Also try to keep your fingers out of your nose until the glue dries. Tom________________________________________________________________________________Date: Mon, 2 Apr 2001 10:38:35 -0500 (CDT)

Original Posted By: "Mike Bell"
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Drilling---off center?In a message dated 4/2/01 9:04:21 AM Pacific Daylight Time, childsway@indian-creek.net writes:> We have finished our landing gear and have the fuselage up on the gear> and didn't go about it that way. The plans show a much simpler way to> drill the holes and they come out easily and quickly.> > Cut the fittings to the required length and deburr, place in a "vee" block> and set on end, mark the 1/8" offset with a centerpunch and drill the> 1/4" hole. No angle drilling required or needed. The "vee" block safely> holds the fitting straight up for drilling.> > Then, as the plans call out, file the flat to an approximate angle, setting> the> fitting on the plate, to which it will be welded later, which is placed on> the> upside down fuselage at the proper locations. Insert a long 1/4" rod to> connect the forward and rear bushings, being careful of sag in the rod, and> check how much fileing of the angled flat is needed.> > Then as described by a previous lister, align, mark, clamp and tack weld> the fitting to the plate and adjust as required using a drill rod inserted> in> both forward and rear bushing/plates for alignment and finish welding. Of> course, do the welding off the fuselage, no need to set fire to the> structure> in the excitement of the moment.> > Rodger Childs> Piet in progress> > > Rodger,This is the way I do this task also. Your instructions are well written and should answer the 'how to' (at least one way) to do the gear attach. I was able to build the V block capability into my drill press vise which was handy also. Doug Bryant________________________________________________________________________________Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Glue

Original Posted By: "Gary Meadows"
04/02/2001 01:16:07 PMLBJ gave us all some good advice. He said, any time that you here thephrase, "I'm just a poor old ________ "(fill in the blank),"immediately check to see if you still have your wallet."Corky, I'm sure? that this doesn't apply to you in particular, but thephrase does suggest that the hearer or reader should immediatelyexercise caution.Mikeps. your newsletter copy is back from the printer and will be mailedas soon as my wife, who generously volunteered, finishes packing andlabeling. This note also goes for all others who trustingly senttheir hard-earned $$$ to this "poor old South Carolina country boy." Isablcorky(at)aol.com Sent by: To: pietenpol-list-digest(at)matronics.com owner-pietenpol-list-server@mat cc: ronics.com Subject: Pietenpol-List:Glue 04/02/2001 12:32 PM Please respond to pietenpol-list First............let me classify by stating that I'm no high-faluting,high-stepping,sweet-smeller like some of those nawth'ern gents I wasforcedto associate with in the damn Army. BUT I'm at a point where Isabellewon'teven hold my hand anymore and no one wants me at the bridge table so Icanonly turn to the Piet net for HELP.How do you get the residue, waste,spillage off your hands after usingthatnew urethane glue? I've gone from soap & water, varsol, acetone to noavail.Please, someone come forth and help this pooooooooooor,oooooooooooooldsouthern country boy.Corky in beauuuuuuuuuuuuutiful La________________________________________________________________________________

Original Posted By: "Rodger & Betty Childs"
Corky, I think I know what you're talking about. I've used the foam crack filler to try to seal some air leaks around the house, and I believe that's a urethane-based foam. I hope someone tells you, cause I couldn't figure it out! I wonder is working some of the liquid glove or something onto your hands before you work with the glue would help?T-88 washes off with good old vinegar - gotta love that!Gary MeadowsSpring, TX________________________________________________________________________________

Original Posted By: Isablcorky(at)aol.com
Corky,Sandpaper would work to get the old glue off, but the best is to avoid theglue in the first place. Get some surgical or examination gloves, avoid thelatex variety just in case you turn up allergic to the stuff. As a lot ofpeople have.But heck, I would shake hands with anyone with airplane glue on their hands.As long as it was dried that is.RodgerIn the Texas Hillcountry(with little gluing left to do)________________________________________________________________________________

Original Posted By: "Merrill"
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: GlueThanks for all the glue plight suggestions but I decided to try a new Louisiana remedy.Clean about 3 lbs of good La gulf shrimp. Chop a lot of onions and celery, saute in a lot of butter then add some tomato sauce and tomato paste andsome" Corky's secret ingrediment. Cook for about 1 1/2 hrs,low, then add those shrimp which helped get the glue off with a lot of green onion tops and a BIG bell pepper finely chopped. Mince about 4 pods of garlic, throw in some parsley and cook another 30 minutes before you serve over a big plate of rice with about 4 bottles of beer or 2 large bottles of wine. This will surely clean your fingers and burst your belley but you will sure sleep good tonightCorky in Shrimpy La________________________________________________________________________________

Original Posted By:
Kind of scarey to think that when you started cooking you had glue on yourhands, and when you were done cooking the glue was gone!Is that Corky's secret ingredient?walt---------------------------------------------------------- Original Message -----

Original Posted By: Steve Eldredge
Kent,Unless your deadset on using T-88, you could use WELDWOOD. This is anFAA approved glue, and it is available at Home Depot. I had theunfortunate opportunity to test the strength of this glue when I had tobreak apart my tailposts to reposition them. Best of all, its cheap(about 5 or 6 bucks for a 1lb. tub) and no hazmat shipping charges! Andif you run out, you can just run down to H.D. and get some more.Jody in Tulsa.________________________________________________________________________________

Original Posted By:> gbloud [mailto:gbloud(at)msn.com]
I'll check it out. I saw some on the shelf last weekend and knew some guysuse it. I'll go over my glue notes and decide.Thanks!Kent> -----Original Message-----

Original Posted By: "Greg Cardinal"
gbloud advised:> Unless your deadset on using T-88, you could use WELDWOOD. This is an> FAA approved glue...Which WELDWOOD are we talking about here? I'd buy theirresorcinol any day, but it's around $18 for a two-pint package,at least in this area. Other than that, I'm not so sure. The onlyglue unreservedly endorsed by AC43.13b (other than the heat-cured phenol-formaldehyde glue used in plywood) is resorcinol.Epoxy gets a nod, but with strong reservations about its sensitivityto mixing ratios and possible loss of strength in high temperatures.Urea-formaldehyde glues and, of course, casein glues are described as obsolete. Beyond that, FAA passes the buck tothe Mil Spec, AMS, and TSO standards.A friend built significant parts of his all-wood ultralight usingstandard WELDWOOD contact adhesive, which he describedas being "good enough." It was the first evidence that he wasnot quite the craftsman I'd imagined him to be. This has sincebeen confirmed by other deficiencies and misdeeds.Owen Davies________________________________________________________________________________Date: Thu, 06 Dec 2001 13:35:13 -0600

Original Posted By: "Robert Haines"
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Glue If my glue is 15 years old, I would replace it for the peace ofmind. New wood, new airplane, might as well use new glue. I still havemy wings to assemble and have used only 1 1/3 qt's. I'm using Aeropoxy.I'm sure it's about the same as T88. At $30 per qt. kit, the cost isn'ttoo bad. If you have a good joint you'd be surprised how little glueyou need. with a very thin coat on each glue surface, I still had gluesquish out when I stapled gussets on. Leon S.________________________________________________________________________________

Original Posted By:> lshutks(at)webtv.net [mailto:lshutks(at)webtv.net]
I like the idea of stapling gussets. I went to Sun 'n Fun this year and sawa guy make ribs for a Piet, using an office stapler like we all have at homeor work. He removed the base part and just went whack-whack whack! He hada rib stapled in less than 30 seconds. I asked if he had to remove staplespenetrate the gusset and wood, something I'll need to try.I figure an office stapler can be used on the gussets on the fuselage andtail.By the way, this site www.2wings.com is not about Piets, but a Pitts 12.They have wood wings too. Check the menus/ wings. Lots of thumbnails of thePitts wing with close-ups. Might show something someone needs. Check alsoCory's pics-rib jig. A real nice, solid looking set up. Read FAQ files-wings. Discuss T-88 and System 3 there. Another section called "cover paintrig" talks about Covering methods. Check the 3rd quarter2000 area, and lookat his work bench. He used some kind of special Timberstrand joist to make abench level to something like .003" !! I'd like to find some of that stuff.Has anyone here used something different than 2x4, 2x6's for their bench?Kent> -----Original Message-----

Original Posted By: Michael D Cuy
I deleted too much > a rib stapled in less than 30 seconds. I asked if he had to > remove staples .... I LEFT SOMETHING OUT HERE.."HE SAID NO"aND HERE TOO. " I never knew regular staples could"> penetrate the gusset and wood, something I'll need to try.> > I figure an office stapler can be used on the gussets on the > fuselage and> tail.> > (snip)________________________________________________________________________________Date: Fri, 07 Dec 2001 08:13:08 -0500

Original Posted By: Tim

Original Posted By: Dave and Connie
Subject: Pietenpol-List: GlueLeaving staples in your wood is a bad idea, unless someone makesaircraft quality staples which I've never heard of. Staples are plainsteel which will rust away inside your wood weakening your wood/gluejoint. I have a 12 oz. can full of removed staples that must weigh 3lbs.Removing them is kind of a pain, but it's something you can do inyour easy chair with a pocket knife as you watch tv. CAUTION Place anold magazine over the family jewels when you do this. LeonS....sheepish grin.________________________________________________________________________________Date: Fri, 07 Dec 2001 18:05:21 -0600

Original Posted By: "Leon Stefan"
If you are worried about the possibility of the joint being weakened by arusty staple; one that rusts under a good coat of varnish then buy stainlessstaples. Most large building supply stores carry them. They are about 5 to8 times the cost of regular staples.----- Original Message -----

Original Posted By: "Leon Stefan"
The biggest problem with staples is that once they rust, and they will, theyleave an easy route for moisture to enter the wood. Best to take thestaples out then you can varnish over the rib and the varnish fills anyholes sealing the wood surface. Don't leave the staples in there. (My mosthumble opinion)Also, yep, that was probably Charlie Rubeck at Sun N Fun - I think Charlieactually builds his ribs without stapling at all - it really only takesmoderate pressure (ie, just mash down on the gussetts with your thumbs andgive it firm pressure to mash out any air) The T-88 will take over and dothe rest.It also may have been Bill Cameron, Naples FL, - he has built a ton of ribsover the years at SNF. He uses a stapler as I recall. I can put you guysin touch with either of these guys if you have questions... E-Mail me.Bert----- Original Message -----

Original Posted By: Mike Hardaway
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: GlueIn a message dated 12/7/01 5:37:47 PM Eastern Standard Time, lshutks(at)webtv.net writes:>I can tell you from first hand experience, that if you don't remove the stapes (and varnish the holes) you end up with rusty staples, and rust will seep or soak into the wood. Aircraft inspectors will tell you than any rust that has soaked into the wood is a no-no, and wood must be replaced. I used a Tackler staple gun, worked great.________________________________________________________________________________Date: Fri, 07 Dec 2001 21:58:21 -0800

Original Posted By: "Cy Galley"
Leon Stefan & Group,Leon, I have no intention of using my 15 year old T88 on myairplanes. Instead, I use it for a multitude of other purposes,such as fixing chairs, but am pleased to learn that it has an "indefinite" shelf life.At the same time, I would not hesitate to use it for repairs onmy Pietenpol because even 15 year old T88 has to be vastlysuperior to the casein glue we used to use, or the 30+ yearold Aerolite still holding my plane together. (I never use any-thing but T88 or a good quality epoxy for re-bonding old gluejoints because Aerolite and a lot of other adhesives aren't very good for making a reliable joint the second time around.) Many years ago, about 1949 while at technical school, we re-moved the fabric cover from a set of Avro Avian (similar to aDH Gypsy Moth) wings and a lot of rib capstrips came off with the fabric because the casein glue joints in the ribs had failed completely (Ugh!). For years and years casein glue was the "approved" aircraft glue, and somehow the airplanes held to-gether---most of the time. Just about any glue available today has to be superior to the casein kind---even my 15 year old T88!But you are right in saying one should use new glue with new wood for a new airplane. The cost of glue is not great when onefigures it into the total cost of a new Pietenpol. I used new glueand new wood for mine when I built it long ago. T88 and similaradhesives did not exist. Aerolite and Weldwood Resorcinolwere widely used then and I chose Aerolite. Today, I would gofor T88 (fresh stock, of course).Just my opinion, for what it's worth.Cheers,Graham Hansen________________________________________________________________________________

Original Posted By:
I am curious. Where in AC 43.13-1b is this "rust" prohibition?Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, OshkoshEditor, EAA Safety Programscgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.orghttp://www.eaa.org for latest flying rulesAlways looking for articles for the Experimenter----- Original Message -----

Original Posted By: del magsam

Original Posted By: "Mike Bell"
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: GlueIn a message dated 12/8/01 8:46:20 AM Eastern Standard Time, cgalley(at)qcbc.org writes:>I don't have AC 43.13-1b handy. I do remember very clearly our Aircraft Mechanic Instructor telling us that any wood that has rust imbedded into the wood, probably has had water damage as well. Testing the piece of wood that has this water / rust damage would be the only way to know if it really was "weaker" where the rust was. Just like previous posts, if your building a new airplane, no need to put questionable parts into a perfectly good airplane. After 30 years I would imagine the rust damage would eventually lead to replacing said parts, upon a rebuild.-dennis in Tenn.________________________________________________________________________________

Original Posted By:
I can understand if that the rust might be an indicator of water damageespecially if it emanates from some plated AN hardware. I cannot see how theamount of rust from a plated desk staple would create a structural problem.I can see your point that if it was a varnished over staple and it rustedthat there could be water damage. On the other hand with out the rust as anindicator, then how would one tell that there was water damage?I do have AC 43.13-1b handy... The only reference I can find is ..." (j)Also check for any cracks that indicate a bond line failure orstructural failure of the wood member. Any evidence of movement of fittings,bushings, or fasteners should be cause for concern, and further inspectionis warranted. Splits in fabric covering the plywood, especially on uppersurfaces exposed to ultraviolet light and water, dictate that the mechanicremove the fabric around the split so the underlying plywood may beinspected for physical damage or decay. When removing metal fasteners fromwood, check for evidence of corrosion. Any corrosion present indicates thepresence of moisture and the strong probability of decay in the adjoiningwood structure."This supports your instructor's warning, but it still doesn't say that thecorrosion (rust) has structurally damaged the wood. If you have installedbolts in a wood structure, you will find minor corrosion after severalyears, That is why you want to use a pipe cleaner and seal bolt holes withvarnish before installing the bolt. But even this is not perfect.Cy Galley - Bellanca Champion ClubNewsletter Editor & EAA TCwww.bellanca-championclub.com----- Original Message -----

Original Posted By: "John Dilatush"
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: GlueIn a message dated 12/8/01 10:51:39 AM Eastern Standard Time, cgalley(at)qcbc.org writes:>Without the moisture, there would be little or no rust. Excessive rust usually means excessive moisture. If rust has "bled" into the wood fibers, then moisture is evident. This was the case in several ribs I had built, using staples, and I had not varnished them. They hung on the garage wall for at least a year. The ribs that I had pulled the staples from, even though not varnished, appeared to be OK.The metal staple also tents to "attract" moisture, especially with temperature changes. So my advice is to "Pull the staples" and do it BEFORE you varnish. Just found a reference in AC43.1B, under Defects not permitted.Says, "Mineral Streaks. Not acceptable if accompanied by decay"as well as under decay " Decay - Examine all discolorations and stains carefully to determine whether or not they are harmless, or are in a stage of preliminary or advanced decay. All pieces must be free from rot, dote, red heart, purple heart and all other forms of decay"Apparently my instructor interpreted this to include rust.Guess that depends on your judgement as to whether rusted staples weaken the rib gusset or not. Pulling the staples and varnishing the wood certainly would make me feel better about the over all airworthiness of the airplane. The other thing about staples OR nails, as mentioned in the AC43.1B, is the crushing and splintering effect of nails. This in itself may be a good reason to apply gluing pressure by some other means, such as spring clamps. ________________________________________________________________________________

Original Posted By: Wayne Meier
Carl,Got a blank E-Mail from you with an attachment, made the mistake ofJohn________________________________________________________________________________Date: Sat, 08 Dec 2001 19:18:40 -0600

Original Posted By: FTLovley(at)aol.com
Subject: Pietenpol-List: GlueI've been using the West System epoxy. I buy it in the quart cans and use thier mini-pumps which are sized for the correct 5:1 mixture. One full strokeof resin, plus one full stroke of hardener equals the right mixture. If you need more,, two or three full strokes of each. The key is to make sure you've got the right pump in the right can. I use the plastic lids off the "new" plastic coffee cans for mixing. I've used almost exactly one full quart can of resin and it appears that I have 4/5 of a can of hardener remaining. Also found out that the local boating place carries the West system. Check their Web site fordealers in your area if you're inclined to use this glue. I made a test joint, of course, and after a day of curing, could not break it no-how. Gave it to my weight-lifter son who can squat 500 pounds as easily as I can manage 50 lbs -- he couldn't break the joint! I concluded that the stuff is airworthy. Of course, builders have been using it for years, too! Was 57 degrees this past weekend -- back to the 30s today. Spring is nigh! Fred B. ________________________________________________________________________________

Original Posted By: glenschweizer(at)yahoo.com
I have just ordered my wing kit and am wondering if anyone has a strongreason use a specific glue like the West System epoxy or other glue.Robert Gow________________________________________________________________________________Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Glue

Original Posted By: "Jack Phillips"
Hello RobertHere we go again. You might want to check the archives for many in depth discussions of this topic. Obviously, an important component of your project, this is one area where you should follow the lead of previous successes. Enjoy your build!Sent from my iPhone> On Jul 8, 2014, at 10:01 AM, Robert Gow wrote:> > I have just ordered my wing kit and am wondering if anyone has a strong reason use a specific glue like the West System epoxy or other glue.> > Robert Gow> > 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D> ________________________________________________________________________________

Original Posted By: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
OK I will see what I can find

Original Posted By: Robert Gow
T-88 is fine, even the FAA will approve it on a 337 for STC aircraft on wood repair.Is easy to mix, 1:1, and have a good overall strength in a wide range oftemperatures. Many, many home-builts flying using T-88 epoxy, that is real worldproof enough.--------Read this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... __________

Original Posted By: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
Yes and it is spec'ed by a number of homebuilt kit companies. So T-88 itis.Thanks-----Original Message-----