Brodhead Pietenpol Association

Original Posted By: DonanClara(at)aol.com
Dear Group, I read a piece about sanding joints that are to be glued. It sug-gested avoiding it because (I guess microscopically) it weakens the gluejoint. If this is so, I would like to learn from a professional ifcleaning a sanded joint surface with something, like maybe acetone wouldhelp freshen the joint for gluing.Dunno, DannyMac________________________________________________________________________________

Original Posted By: walter evans
Danny, Just use a cabinet makers scrapper to get past the sanded and filledwood pores. Doesn't really take much.dannymac wrote:> Dear Group,>> I read a piece about sanding joints that are to be glued. It sug-> gested avoiding it because (I guess microscopically) it weakens the glue> joint. If this is so, I would like to learn from a professional if> cleaning a sanded joint surface with something, like maybe acetone would> help freshen the joint for gluing.>> Dunno, DannyMac________________________________________________________________________________

Original Posted By: Dlwoolsey(at)aol.com
The problem with sanding the joint is that it fills the pore with smallparticles of mashed wood fibers. The glues don't get deeply into the poresand the joint is weaker.Some folks use "cabinet scrapers" to clean the stock before glueing, butbeing a scrounge, I use a glass cutter to cut strips of broken window panesabout an inch and a half wide. Then into pieces about four inches long. Theedge stays sharp for a while, then I turn it over and use the next edge. Ifigure I get eight scraping edges per piece. Pretty cheap eh? the glasscutting experience doesn't hurt either.John Mc> I read a piece about sanding joints that are to be glued. It sug->gested avoiding it because (I guess microscopically) it weakens the glue>joint. If this is so, I would like to learn from a professional if>cleaning a sanded joint surface with something, like maybe acetone would>help freshen the joint for gluing.>>Dunno, DannyMac>________________________________________________________________________________

Original Posted By: Thomas E Bowdler
Sand it to rough dimensions then plane it the last little bit!dannymac wrote:> Dear Group,>> I read a piece about sanding joints that are to be glued. It sug-> gested avoiding it because (I guess microscopically) it weakens the glue> joint. If this is so, I would like to learn from a professional if> cleaning a sanded joint surface with something, like maybe acetone would> help freshen the joint for gluing.>> Dunno, DannyMac--David B.Schober, CPEInstructor, Aviation MaintenanceFairmont State CollegeNational Aerospace Education CenterRt. 3 Box 13Bridgeport, WV 26330-9503(304) 842-8300________________________________________________________________________________

Original Posted By: Adolfo Pando
Dear Danny,In my job as a violin maker, we NEVER sand any joints, as quite apart from the microscopic particles weakening the joint, it is virtually impossible to get a completely flat wood to wood joint. The only 100% safe way to get good results in violin making is to have a freshly cut surface, either planed, chiselled or whatever is appropriate. I would suggest in the case of jointing the longerons at the sternpost, the best way may well be to sand first for quick wood removal, but finish off with a block plane. Do remember that the plane blade will be blunted very quickly by the abrasive particles left in the wood by the sander!Happy jointing,Dominic________________________________________________________________________________