Brodhead Pietenpol Association

Original Posted By: "Gary Leopold"
Subject: Pietenpol-List: varnishGood morning group, I am about to do some varnishing using Stitts epoxy spar varnish. It says to reduce it and gives a part # for their reducer that I didn't get, is there something else I could use? Thanks in advance, Robert Bush________________________________________________________________________________

Original Posted By:
----- Original Message -----

Original Posted By:
Do you need to use any type of fungus treatment before applying the Stitsepoxy varnish? The EAA "Wood" book (somewhat dated I think)discusses theneed to treat for fungus before coating with varnish but I have not heard ofanyone doing it. Since epoxy varnish should seal better and crack less doesthis reduce/eliminate the need for fungus treatment?----- Original Message -----

Original Posted By: JOEL CARROLL

Original Posted By: JOEL CARROLL
The fungus they are talking about is mildew and drywrought. The chemicalsealer used under the varnish is "pentachlorophenal". I don't know if it'sstill available as it is a carcinogen. It must not be sprayed, only brushed.It works very well and was used for many years. I don't know if it is stillavailable. I found (I think) the last gallon in Toronto at an old hardwarestore. The major chains didn't carry it. In any case there must be somesubstitute. I would try and find something or kiss your structure good-byewithin a few years.Regards,Domenico________________________________________________________________________________Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2000 20:02:22 -0800 (PST)

Original Posted By: "ws133b(at)uswest.net
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: varnishRobert, It's not good to mix any brand name paint or chemical with another brandname. A lot of guys do it and it often works OK, but there is always thechance that something bad will happen. It's best not to take the chance.John LangstonPipe Creek, TXnle97(at)juno.com> > Good morning group, > > I am about to do some varnishing > using Stitts > epoxy spar varnish. It says to reduce it and gives a part # for > their reducer > that I didn't get, is there something else I could use? > > > > Thanks in advance, > > Robert Bush> > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________

Original Posted By:>
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: varnishReferencing AC 43.13-1B, Chapter 1, the primary objective of interior finishes(i.e., varnish) is to afford protection of the wood against serious change inmoisture content when exposed to damp air or to water that gains entrance toclosed spaces by condensation or by penetration of rain, mist, or fog. Itfurther states the moisture content of the wood will have to be 20% or greater(versus 8-12% for dry wood) to sustain fungus growth. Keep your wood dry, andyou shouldn't have a decay problem. I've not heard of adding fungicidalcompounds to aircraft varnish. Also, I would be concerned about pre-treatingwood with these compounds prior to assembly of components, because of possibleimpact on glue performance/adhesion.Approved fungicidal compounds are commonly added to dope used to coat cotton andlinen aircraft fabric, however.With regard to substitute thinners for the Stits varnish, suggest sticking withmanufacturer's recommendations.Ted TuckermanMike wrote:>> Do you need to use any type of fungus treatment before applying the Stits> epoxy varnish? The EAA "Wood" book (somewhat dated I think)discusses the> need to treat for fungus before coating with varnish but I have not heard of> anyone doing it. Since epoxy varnish should seal better and crack less does> this reduce/eliminate the need for fungus treatment?> ----- Original Message -----

Original Posted By: "richard navratil"
Hey Guys,Dry wrought is a real problem. Treating wood before varnishing has been donefor at least 90 years. I know of at least 2 planes at the Brampton airportwith the decease. If pentachlorophenal is no longer available use asubstitute but use something. Talk to some of the old timers at yourrespective airports. Call the E.A.A. or the R.A.A. in Canada for someadvice. Make sure also that there is plenty of air circulation in the wingsand fuselage. On the trailing edge of your wing use seaplane grommets(facethe open end to the rear of the plane. This allows for water to exit in arainfall and moist air from the inside to be exited whilst flying. Make sureyou have small holes at the rear/bottom of the fuselage for water andcondensation to exit. Another thing, cut the grass short near the tail ofthe plane. Moisture from the long grass will will eventually wrought therear of the fuselage (just ask Jack Watson of Fergus, Ontario). He has theonly Pietenpol that has never flown in 20 years and had to rebuild the rearof the fuselage due to dry wrought. In winter if you park outside raise thetail a little to keep it higher than the snow.I think I've said enough,Domenic________________________________________________________________________________

Original Posted By: "Domenico Bellissimo"
What about West System Epoxy. Greg, you and Dale used it on your ribs ,Didn't you? In boat building West system is as good as they get .Dick Navratil----- Original Message -----

Original Posted By: JOEL CARROLL
Hi everyone,The West System Epoxy is about the best you can get for boats. There is onemore thing I forgot to mention, and that is that spar varnish allows thewood fibre to breath. All wood must breath or there will be trouble down theroad. It may be o.k. for a few years but then look out. For this reason Iused varnish and not any plastic/ epoxy sealers.Domenic________________________________________________________________________________Date: Thu, 23 Mar 2000 18:46:14 -0800 (PST)

Original Posted By: Greggotone(at)aol.com
I'm not an expert, but from what I've read, epoxy has a very stablizing effect on wood and the WEST system (or any other epoxy varnish) has virtually revived wooden boat building since it minimizes the problems with rot (unlike traditional varnishes).Joe K.Spring, TX(14' Skipjack, now building Piet tail)>From: "richard navratil" >Reply-To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com>To: >Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: varnish>Date: Thu, 23 Mar 2000 20:19:24 -0600>>>>What about West System Epoxy. Greg, you and Dale used it on your ribs ,>Didn't you? In boat building West system is as good as they get .>Dick Navratil>----- Original Message ----->From: "Domenico Bellissimo" >To: >Sent: Thursday, March 23, 2000 7:36 PM>Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: varnish>>>> >> > Hey Guys,> >> > Dry wrought is a real problem. Treating wood before varnishing has been>done> > for at least 90 years. I know of at least 2 planes at the Brampton >airport> > with the decease. If pentachlorophenal is no longer available use a> > substitute but use something. Talk to some of the old timers at your> > respective airports. Call the E.A.A. or the R.A.A. in Canada for some> > advice. Make sure also that there is plenty of air circulation in the>wings> > and fuselage. On the trailing edge of your wing use seaplane >grommets(face> > the open end to the rear of the plane. This allows for water to exit in >a> > rainfall and moist air from the inside to be exited whilst flying. Make>sure> > you have small holes at the rear/bottom of the fuselage for water and> > condensation to exit. Another thing, cut the grass short near the tail >of> > the plane. Moisture from the long grass will will eventually wrought the> > rear of the fuselage (just ask Jack Watson of Fergus, Ontario). He has >the> > only Pietenpol that has never flown in 20 years and had to rebuild the>rear> > of the fuselage due to dry wrought. In winter if you park outside raise>the> > tail a little to keep it higher than the snow.> >> > I think I've said enough,> >> > Domenic________________________________________________________________________________

Original Posted By: Javier Cruz
Javier:OK, sounds good.Don't forget to put you mark on the TACO map.PLATA ----- Original Message -----

Original Posted By: harvey rule

Original Posted By: "Steve Ruse"
Ben;Like Chuck Gantzer, I have used Ace spar varnish (from your Ace hardware store) on wood repairs to NX41CC. It's quite thin so needs several coats but I love the smell of the hangar after I varnish something so I don't mind. I found that if you shake the can the varnish sometimes has tiny bubbles when you apply it, but it's thin enough that the bubbles disappear as it dries. Purists say "stirred, not shaken", but I'm too impatient so I shake the can.Oscar ZunigaSan Antonio, TXmailto: taildrags(at)hotmail.comwebsite at http://www.flysquirrel.net_________________________________________________________________Get FREE company branded e-mail accounts and business Web site from Microsoft Office Live ________________________________________________________________________________