Brodhead Pietenpol Association

Original Posted By: del magsam
"The Clean Air Store" Email= mailto:pietenpoller(at)hotmail.comA few days ago this was discussed, but I missed. I have my fuse completeand ofcourse the tail end is 2" across, as I did nothing. Can some of youwith completed airframes let me know if this will present a problem downthje road. I could se nothing from the drawings the suggested a problem thatI could not live with. I buildin the extended fuse and have a 0 timeFranklin 65 hp to hang on it.ThanksTed, A Pietenpoller from PEO.________________________________________________________________________________Date: Wed, 25 Oct 2000 09:16:22 -0700 (PDT)

Original Posted By: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
Ted,,, My two cents is you could probably get away with the width,,,countersinkthe L brackets to align with the vert stab,,instead of making a two inchwide stab andrudder as Del had mentioned as you would pick up a lot of unwanted weight.The only thing that would bother me is the strength you would lose when thatlast 7 inches or so come together and are bonded with the glue. That reallyseems to make the tail end a lot stronger. Couldn't you cut out the tailpost, taper the insides so it comes together right and replace the tailpostback on?In the long run you would probably save time up the road and feel betterwith thestrength back there. Just a thought.Carl-----Original Message-----

Original Posted By: Edward Nolan
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Fabric weight leopowning(at)yahoo.comI'm sorry I erased all the inquiries about using oil based polyurathane paints as the fabric fill, UV, and color. It is from an article from Sept 97 Kitplanes. We used this method on the Gantzer/Bryant aircamper ('A' powered). Doug Bryant Wichita, Ks________________________________________________________________________________Date: Wed, 25 Oct 2000 16:47:51 -0700 (PDT)

Original Posted By: "The Clean Air Store"
Ted:I definitly would NOT cut it apart and re-do it if it is already glued.I've found that re-working a major part is a real pain - I had a fit ofimpatience and put in the absolutely worst floorboard materialimagineable. -LUAN Spent a whole weekend grinding it out only to replace itwith good material.How did you tie the two fuse sides together? Gussetts top and bottom?You're probably ok. The surface area that is glued in a proper mitred jointis relatively small. The fact that you have two sides pulled together,positioned, but not glued together, probably can be offset with goodgussetting on the top and botton of the triangular junction of the sides.Maybe even some extra gussetting on the verticals in each side or on the"underside" of the horizontals that span from one fuse slab across to theother side back at the last station.. Plywood is light. There IS a littleadded weight you have (it's a matter of ounces). However, remember therecan be a significant negative moment to consider regarding the weight andbalance when you hang a few extra ounces out on a long moment arm. But letsface it, these type planes are sometimes a bit heavy on the rear end anyway(with tail wheels, heavy pilots, etc) and a little trim tab, wingrelocation, or horizontal stab adjustment goes a long way when rigging.The extra width may not really be noticeable. Yeah... the rudder will be 1"wide and the tailpost will be 2 inches wide. That means, if centered, eachside will stick out 1/2 inch further than the rudder. Carefully bevel eachside down a quarter and you now have a mere 1/4 sticking out beyond the edgeof the rudder. That part of the plane is about as hard to see as any, it'sbelow the horiz stab/elevator and on the ground, so really , most peopleprobably wouldnt even see it anyway.Just my 2 cents...Lets us know what you do.Best, Bert----- Original Message -----

Original Posted By: "The Clean Air Store"
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Tail Of FuselageIn a message dated 10/25/00 4:59:03 PM Pacific Daylight Time, bconoly(at)surfsouth.com writes:<< Ted: I definitly would NOT cut it apart and re-do it if it is already glued. I've found that re-working a major part is a real pain - I had a fit of impatience and put in the absolutely worst floorboard material imagineable. -LUAN Spent a whole weekend grinding it out only to replace it with good material. How did you tie the two fuse sides together? Gussetts top and bottom? You're probably ok. The surface area that is glued in a proper mitred joint is relatively small. The fact that you have two sides pulled together, positioned, but not glued together, probably can be offset with good gussetting on the top and botton of the triangular junction of the sides. Maybe even some extra gussetting on the verticals in each side or on the "underside" of the horizontals that span from one fuse slab across to the other side back at the last station.. Plywood is light. There IS a little added weight you have (it's a matter of ounces). However, remember there can be a significant negative moment to consider regarding the weight and balance when you hang a few extra ounces out on a long moment arm. But lets face it, these type planes are sometimes a bit heavy on the rear end anyway (with tail wheels, heavy pilots, etc) and a little trim tab, wing relocation, or horizontal stab adjustment goes a long way when rigging. The extra width may not really be noticeable. Yeah... the rudder will be 1" wide and the tailpost will be 2 inches wide. That means, if centered, each side will stick out 1/2 inch further than the rudder. Carefully bevel each side down a quarter and you now have a mere 1/4 sticking out beyond the edge of the rudder. That part of the plane is about as hard to see as any, it's below the horiz stab/elevator and on the ground, so really , most people probably wouldnt even see it anyway. Just my 2 cents... Lets us know what you do. Best, Bert ----- Original Message -----