Brodhead Pietenpol Association

Original Posted By: Isablcorky(at)aol.com
Buds-I am putting the cowling on my Cherry Grove missile and am wondering about theplywood piece on the plans. Looks like the suggested way is to bolt that 3/4" plywood ring to the front ofthe engine and nail the bottom and side pieces to it. Step #2 is to take out thebolts and nail the front ring in place. I'm not too keen on having that much weight flailing around close to my shiny newprop and fatiguing my .020 aluminum cowling. I'm opting out of the plywoodring altogether and my "nosebowl" will be the only thing being supported. Comments?????Larry in CVG________________________________________________________________________________

Original Posted By: mboynton(at)excite.com

Original Posted By: "ken breier"
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Order quantity of 1/8 inch plywoodIn a message dated 7/10/01 2:13:21 PM Pacific Daylight Time, mboynton(at)excite.com writes:> To all:> > A question for those of you who have already ordered/bought your 1/8 inch> plywood... How much did you need for the whole airplane?> > Mark Boynton> Gilbert, AZ> > > Mark,Two 4x8 sheets will do nicely and you will have some extra. You can calculate the requirement more precisely and probably get by with a little less. Doug Bryant Wichita Ks________________________________________________________________________________

Original Posted By: "Warren D. Shoun"
To all:What are some of the alternatives for aircraft grade 1/8 ply?Ken BreierAtlanta Ga.________________________________________________________________________________Date: Tue, 10 Jul 2001 20:08:40 -0700

Original Posted By: "Owen Davies"
Ken, I've used some Marine grade plywood that meets the British standard - BS1088 I believe it is. It is a spec for internal voids, boil times etc. It was marketed under the name "Aquatek" and "Hydratek". The 1088 spec appeared to be basically the same as the aircraft plywood spec, so I was comfortable with the substitution. It is a little lighter colored than mahogany, but when varnished, darkens down to a close match for mahogany. I bought a 1/8" sheet and a 1/4" sheet and together they were something like $40-$50. I used the real stuff in the sides of the fuselage before I found the marine stuff, and used the 1/4" for my floor, and the 1/8" for my bulkheads. and 2 - 1/8" sheets and 1 1/4" sheet looks about right, I think someone already said that.Anyway, it looks fine, and seems plenty strongGood luck!Gary MeadowsSpring, TX(eyeballing the landing gear, and hoping for time to work on it....)________________________________________________________________________________

Original Posted By: Michael D Cuy
07/11/2001 12:30:47 PMHi List,While we're at it, can anybody shed light on the amount of 1/16" ply neededto do all the wing rib gussets?Thanks!Kip GardnerLaboratory ManagerOld Dominion UniversityDept. of Ocean, Earth & Atmos. Sciences, Rm. 4414600 Elkhorn Ave.Norfolk, VA 23529Ph: 757-683-5654Bumper Sticker of the Week:"Honor Veterans - Stop War"(On the car of a friend who is a DFC-decorated WWII veteran)________________________________________________________________________________Date: Wed, 11 Jul 2001 13:01:22 -0400

Original Posted By: KGardner(at)odu.edu
Warren D. Shoun helpfully wrote:> Take a look at> http://www.aitwood.com> under "ultra-thin plywood".> Keep in mind that in addition to meeting the "standards" you are alsolooking> at certified insurance coverage. The above products exceed the aircraft> standards, but are not certified and insured. Check with local cabinet> makers for a local supplier.Actually, that page worries me. There is nothing in the descriptionto indicate that this Finnish birch is waterproof. The Australianhoop pine at least is described as "exterior" grade, and the Europeanbirch is available in a marine grade, though only down to 1/4 inch.Under the circumstances, unless you definitely know something thatdoes not appear in the online catalog, the fact that the "ultra-thinplywood"is not specifically described as being okay for moist environmentsstrongly suggests to me that it isn't. More checking indicated!Owen Davies________________________________________________________________________________Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Order quantity of 1/8 inch plywood

Original Posted By: Tim Willis

Original Posted By: Michael Perez
Hey guys,You are right Mike, since the engine is moving, NO part of the cowlingshould touch it. As it's cantilevered from the firewall, it is quite stiffand doesn't need any support up front.There are many ways to attach it to the fuse and work, but my $.02 aboutwhat is most important is this. Be sure your mounting points are secure andsolid, and secondly, use a system that enables you to whip that cowling offeasily or you'll curse yourself later, I promise.You don't want anything making it difficult to open the engine up, or togive you an excuse to not ck something, and removing dozens of screws mightdo that IMHO.A cowling that is split horizontally makes removal much easier and thingscan often be seen or reached by just removing the top half. Mike Cuys' is a super system or something like it.Once I got the cowling sides attached, I riveted a section of aluminum angleacross the inside of the bottom of the cowling so that it would "index" withthe bottom of the firewall. This did two things, firstly it helps give yousomething to gauge where things are when you're putting the bit bottom halfof the cowling on, AND since the thing is cantilevered from the sides, it is"resting" against the bottom of the cowling and taking some potential strainoff the other fasteners.Also, think of things that need to come off to remove the cowling, likebreather tube etc. Can you get to your gascolator easily? Can you changethe oil with the cowling in place? Also keep in mind that you'll be usingyour cowling latches, pins or whatever lots of times each year, will itscratch the surrounding paint? Is there something you can do to stop that??Good luck!Douwe________________________________________________________________________________Date: Mon, 6 Jan 2014 18:50:32 -0800 (PST)

Original Posted By: Dan Yocum

Original Posted By: Jonathan Ragle
>>>>>>>>>>Lowell,>>>>>>Two years ago at Brodhead I listened to your conversation regarding>>the superiority of the GA30U-612 airfoil over BP's airfoil. In Tim>>Willis' posting I read about the GA3OU 613.5 airfoil.>>>>>>If I am understanding the thread of conversation correctly the 612>>airfoil seems to be preferred over the 613.5 for aircraft with 100+ hp. I'm>>>intending to use a WW Corvair conversion for my Piet.>>>>>>Who should I contact to get a print, coordinates, and any notes>>relating to the GA30U-612 airfoil?>>>>>>Please confirm my understanding in selecting the 612 airfoil.>>>>>>Regards,>>>>>>Allan Macklem >>>>>>________________________________________________________________________________