Brodhead Pietenpol Association

Original Posted By: "Alan Swanson"
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Getting started.Hello Kent: Keep asking questions. Lots of questions! The one sorespot I have about the Piet project is the fact that the plans, althoughlook good are very vague and lacking in detail. I wish I'd found thislist before I started as you have. BHP. built 20+ "ships" ( I love thatword) and it appears that he never bothered to re draw a cleaned up setof plans. That's why you are getting so many great suggestions, and whyI have so large a box of scrap! Here is my tipon gluing. If using epoxy, pour equal amounts of each part intoRubbermaid squeeze bottles. For mixing, get a bunch of medicine cups(like the one that comes on Pepto Bizmo) Hobby shops or Hobby Lobby hasthem. They have graduated markings on them so you will always have equalparts of resin and hardener. You will have to mark the amountgraduations you will be using on the cup with a small dot from a felttip pen as the graduations don't show up well when you get the resin andhardener in it. Put the thicker resin in the cup first. then the thinhardener will pour nicely on top of the resin. If you put the thinhardener in the cup first, the heavy resin will sink sink to the bottomof the cup and blow your accurate measurement. I'm on my 3rd filling ofthe squeeze bottles and the two bottles have always kept at equal levelsthroughout telling me that my glue batches have always been the proper50/50 ratio. Leon S. In colder wind swept Ks. ________________________________________________________________________________

Original Posted By: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
Kent, to build on what Leon said about using epoxy:I bought a bunch of hypodermics (without the needles) that have ml markingson them. I found mine at the Fly Market at Oshkosh and Lakeland. I foundsmall 3 oz plastic cups like you get in cheap restaurants at Sam's Club- 500for a very reasonable fee. I put resin in one hypo, and hardener in theother, then empty them into the cup. I found that 15ml of each was aboutall I could use in a batch before it started to get thick. When I'm done Ileave the mixing stick in the excess glue in the cup, let it cure, thenwrite the date and what it was used for on the cup. Then I have a gluesample that I can match to my builder's log.Great thing about this list- there are a hundred ways of doing things, andyou can pick and choose what works best for you. I have printed many of thee-mails from this group and file them in my construction book for later so Idon't forget a good idea.Thanks to everyone on the list over the years!Al Swanson-----Original Message-----

Original Posted By: "John Myers"
John,What was the cost that Mr. Corder quoted you for the prop? Is is a scimitarshape?Chris Bobka----- Original Message -----

Original Posted By: "maynord"
The wood must be dried to realise its full strength. The EAA wood bookcovers this in detail. Also, once the wood is dried, it will pretty muchretain that dried out (13% or so) moisture level indefinitely. That way itwill not warp and twist.Get some kiln dried wood and spend the extra dough.chris Bobkatech counselor----- Original Message -----