Brodhead Pietenpol Association

Original Posted By: "George Allen"
Guys, sears has blade stabilizers that are really nice ground tool steel.they fit the 5/8" arbor on most 10 and12 inch saws. Maybe the last thingleft at sears worth buying since they discontinued roebucks jeans.Chris bobka----- Original Message -----

Original Posted By:> Larry Neal [mailto:llneal2(at)earthlink.net]
Larry, I just finished truing my Craftsman saw too. The blade was about1/64" out at the back. I thought that was ok, but it binded cutting. Mysaw adjusts by slipping shims between the motor and mount. Incredibly, (ittook 3 attempts,) but it is dead on! I measured with a dial indicatorscrewed to a stick, then clamp the stick to the mitre gage. Measure a toothat the front, rotate the same tooth back, measure again and figure out whatto adjust. Of course I had to remove the slop the mitre gage had first, byusing a pin punch to expand the side of the bar just a bit, so it stillslides but without the slop. I'm going for those blade stabilizers too, and a thin kerf blade.By the way, I don't know if all circular saw blades are 1/16" thick, butmine is. It's 7", (7 1/4" ? ) but would probably work fine on thetablesaw.> -----Original Message-----

Original Posted By: "Greg Cardinal"

Original Posted By: "Kent Hallsten"
Kent,A thinner blade, while using up less material in cutting the kerf, will alsonot be as rigid as a thicker one. Is there a concern with this as far asmaintiain trueness while cutting. Will harder wood near one side of thekerf force the blade to deflect the other way?I prefer to use the 1/8" thick carbide tipped blades with more TPI thanless. They cut through the wood like butter and very accurate. The toplimit on TPI is based on the thickness on the wood and hence, the ability ofthe gullets to hold cut material before dumping it out beyond the cut. Forthe thin wood we cut, it is negligible. Optimally, you also want to have atleast two teeth in the material at any one point in time. That is why I gofor max TPI.Turn your saw on with a thin blade while some flourescent lights are on inyour shop to get the strobe flicker and as the blade comes up to speed,watch the "wave" in the blade. Scares me. Anyone?Chris Bobka----- Original Message -----

Original Posted By: "Christian Bobka"
Two things my FAA guy either missed or let me slide on was I did not have a compass correction card (still do not) nor an ELT (still do not). Mike C. ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Same here, but I bought an ELT last year. Mike B Piet N687MB ( Mr Sam ) PS: check your compass to the runway heading.________________________________________________________________________________

Original Posted By: "Michael D Cuy"
Mike,An ELT is not a required item, per se. Domestically, if you fly more than50 miles from your home airport in an aircraft with at least one additionalseat beyond that for required crewmember(s), then it is required. There isan exclusion for air carriers and other certain operators that have a"flight following" system set up as part of their FAA approved operationsspecifications.So, if you build a Sky Scout or a single seat Pitts, no ELT required. Whenyour ship was originally signed off, your practice area was most likely aplace that physically kept you within the 50 mile radius. The inspector hadno need to make the requirement. He could then further assume that younever intended to fly the aircraft beyond the 50 mile radius even after youflew of the hours. But he also has the last laugh.Since ramp checks love to look at things like the required batteryexpiration sticker mounted on the outside of your ELT and compass correctioncard, it would behoove you to take care of these before you go somewhere andare "visited". It has happened to me and always when I have my gaurd waydown. The compass correction card is required to have a value for at leastevery thirty degrees of heading. So you need 0, 30, 60, 90, etc. Make itup if you have to. Just have it there for the feds.Besides, all in all, an ELT is a good thing. It could save your life oneday. Transponders and that stuff....now that is where I have to draw theline. ATC still manages to crash transponder equipped aircraft into eachother.chris bobka----- Original Message -----

Original Posted By:> Christian Bobka [mailto:bobka(at)charter.net]
Chris, I picked up a 120 tooth blade ,inexpensive but carbide tips.Thought I would save it for plywood. How would that do for ripping oursoftwoods? with so many teeth the gullets are not deep. It should be goodfor cross cuts and mitres. I did crosscut some 2x4's and it was good, but Ihaven't tried ripping with it. Kent> -----Original Message-----

Original Posted By: "Kent Hallsten"
Kent,It should work fine for everything except maybe ripping the spar, thich Idoubt you need to do since most by the spar to the correct size.Chris bobka----- Original Message -----

Original Posted By: "Cy Galley"
Hey All,I've been lurking here for a while. The Piet talk and banter is interestingand great fun. Here is the URL for ILPA http://www.centercomp.com/ILPA/There is lots of information there on the website for anyone interested...Dan----- Original Message -----

Original Posted By:> Daniel A McNeill [mailto:dmcneil3(at)mindspring.com]
Dan, On the links for the web site you gave us... MMMMM... is that L-4Pucker gage for real? LMAO!!Kent> -----Original Message-----

Original Posted By: Michael D Cuy

Original Posted By: "Michael Brusilow"
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: ELT loopholesMike,Don't be distressed about your cousins' conduct yesterday in Cleveland. These actions plus many more have been going on at Tiger Stadium in Baton Rouge since they built the stadium and admitted the first cajun.Corky, half-cajun in La rebuilding his throttle linkage and installing a different fuel cut off system. I might never finish this thing if I continue to try to improve upon what I completed 6 months ago________________________________________________________________________________

Original Posted By: "D.Dale Johnson"
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Blade stabilizers

Original Posted By: "Ed Grentzer"
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: what he missedIn a message dated 12/17/01 10:39:37 AM Eastern Standard Time, tbertw(at)tenbuckplans.com writes:>Does that mean: If I have a single place Piet (Scout) I don't need to worry about an ELT ?________________________________________________________________________________

Original Posted By: "D.Dale Johnson"
Actually, Dale, tell the truth. The carbide tooth went halfway through yourwindow. The inner pane of glass is busted but not the outer pane. And thetooth is not in between.Chris----- Original Message -----

Original Posted By:
If you have a single seat airplane, you will never have to install an ELT.chris bobkatech counselor----- Original Message -----

Original Posted By: "Tom & Michelle Brant"
I'm sorry I didn't think of this sooner but it was several years ago. WhenI got my Craftsman table saw, I had to make three adjustments. There was astop for the 0 angle cut and there was a stop for the 45 angle cut, bothfrom an adjustment screw on the top. The third was the angle that everyoneis currently talking about. As I recall, that adjustment was performed byadjusting a set screw located on the underside of the fence behind thesliding flat. Typically, that's how the larger saws are adjusted for thisrunout and I think that's how these small saws are adjusted as well. I'mjust not sure.Robert HainesMurphysboro (middle left of the bottom 1/3), Illinois>> Larry,> I just finished truing my Craftsman saw too. The blade was about> 1/64" out at the back. I thought that was ok, but it binded cutting. My> saw adjusts by slipping shims between the motor and mount. Incredibly,(it> took 3 attempts,) but it is dead on! I measured with a dial indicator________________________________________________________________________________Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 23:22:31 -0800

Original Posted By: Kent Hallsten
I looked last night, the Craftsman benchtop does not have those adjustments.I must have been thinking of another saw.Robert H.> As I recall, that adjustment was performed by> adjusting a set screw located on the underside of the fence behind the> sliding flat.________________________________________________________________________________

Original Posted By:> Robert Haines [mailto:robertsjunk(at)hotmail.com]
Sears changes designs like we change socks. The manual with my saw said toadjust 3 screws on TOP of the table. No screws. I call customer serviceand a very helpful guy said I had a newer model of my model. They sent meshims for the motor mount. My blade is straight now, but it would have beeneasier with adjusting screws on top.Kent> -----Original Message-----

Original Posted By: "John Hofmann"
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Looking for:Pieters: An old hand and I were yesterday discussing covering systems. The last job of covering he used, which he said was very simple, was from some outfit in Jacksonville, Arkansas. He can't remember the name of the concern. Can anyone on this net help with this search? He said it was a three step operation without any sanding.Corky in La looking ahead________________________________________________________________________________

Original Posted By: Dmott9(at)aol.com
Here you go Corky. Air Tech Coatings.TakeCare,-john-http://www.airtechcoatings.com/>> Pieters: An old hand and I were yesterday discussing covering systems. The> last job of covering he used, which he said was very simple, was from some> outfit in Jacksonville, Arkansas. He can't remember the name of theconcern.> Can anyone on this net help with this search? He said it was a three step> operation without any sanding.> Corky in La looking ahead>>________________________________________________________________________________

Original Posted By: "John Hofmann"
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: getting started (Finally)In a message dated 12/19/2001 12:11:54 AM Eastern Standard Time, tmbrant(at)uswest.net writes:>Good news ! Glad to hear you got the wood orderd.Where and what is McCormicks ? If you don't mind,how much wood did you order and at what prices ?-dennis the menace, in Tennessee________________________________________________________________________________

Original Posted By: Isablcorky(at)aol.com
McCormick's is in Madison Wisconsin, a little over an hour from my house. Ifanyone is interested I can make a run there and let all know what they keepin stock. They are known for aircraft quality (though not necessarilycertified) spruce.http://www.mccormicklumber.com/Here is their website.TakeCare,-john->> Tom Brant, MPLS >>> Good news ! Glad to hear you got the wood orderd.> Where and what is McCormicks ? If you don't mind,> how much wood did you order and at what prices ?> -dennis the menace, in Tennessee________________________________________________________________________________

Original Posted By: Gary Gower
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Looking for:Thanks JohnDo you know anything about their system? Quality, prices etc?Corky in La counting his pennies before covering________________________________________________________________________________Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2001 12:29:43 -0800 (PST)

Original Posted By: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
I bought my spar lumber there. They have 20' boards, both in 4/4 and 5/4rough sawn. I bought there over a year ago, but the quality was very high.I bought early so they would have a year or two to season in my hangar.They let me pick through the stock for as long as I wanted, and were greatto work with. After I cut out the best spots for the spars, I will probablyhave enough left over for another plane!Al Swansonswans071(at)tc.umn.edu-----Original Message-----

Original Posted By: Isablcorky(at)aol.com
> Thanks John> Do you know anything about their system? Quality, prices etc?> Corky in La counting his pennies before coveringCorky et al.,Covering always seems to be a controversial subject and I have kept my twocents out of it to this point. But now I will add it. This area for thehomebuilder (Piet builder especially) offers more options than the certifiedworld. There you are limited to a system, however this system generally onlygoes through the ultraviolet barrier and not the top coats. I havecovered/recovered a dozen or so aircraft and have various thoughts and ideason the subject. Some of the finest homebuilts I have seen were Piets andthen again some of the worst I have seen were also Piets. So here are mypennies:1. Keep it light.2. Keep it light.3. Keep it light.4. Just because it is an experimental aircraft, how experimental do themethods have to be when safety is concerned? Hopefully we are using qualitywood and aircraft grade fasteners. Does that mean we deviate from thatpractice when covering and finishing an aircraft? Steve Wittman did his tailsection on the OandO Special like he had always done them in the pastinstead of following the manufacturer's directions. He paid for it with hislife when the covering peeled off. Granted, a Pietenpol will not be flyingon those high Mach numbers but why take the chance?5. No need to buy certificated fabric. The manufacturers even admit it allcomes off the same roll, but that PMA stamp adds tons to the price. So buyuncertificated Dacron from any supplier. Also buy the lightest weight fabricyou can find. At Piet speeds there is no reason to use higher weight fabric.6. I have heard the stories of the house paint and all that. for UVprotection. That is fine but is not how I will choose to do that. I amleaning towards the AFS system on this project out of curiosity more thananything else, but again it is also a certified system. The key with UVprotection is to not be able to see a light bulb on the other side of thefabric. I like Silver as UV protection from the standpoint of aesthetics andhistory. Since a Pietenpol is a link to the past then using the materials ofthe past is kinda cool. If you go the Polyfiber or Ceconite route, why notleave your wings in Silver as a testament to the way a Travel Air oraircraft of that ilk was finished It looks antiquey and is also light inweight.7. Keep it light.8. Just about all ways of fastening the Dacron to the airframe are verysimilar. Slightly different glues but the process of gluing and shrinking ispractically the same. DO NOT use a heat gun EVER. Calibrate your iron and donot use one the missus (or you) will be using for clothing. Get your own.Get a good one. Go to the local hobby shop and get one of those Monokoteirons. You will need it. I prefer the blanket method of fabric attachmentvs. the envelope. No unsightly seams makes for a cleaner looking finish.Easier to control the fabric shrinking using the blanket method too. Onemore thing, make sure metal parts that will touch fabric glue are paintedwith epoxy and not polyurethane or enamel. The glues will lift the paint andintroduce the possibility of corrosion to the metal part.9. Keep it light.10. Shiny old airplanes are the work of the devil. Lightplanes of the pasthad a matte finish. Only the high dollar Lears of the 30's (Staggerwings andsuch) had a gloss finish. That was accomplished through lots of top coatsand lots of sanding. Of course shiny is a personal choice. If the AFS systemhas a shine, so be it, but I will not strive for that type of finish. Don'ttry to hide your tapes. That adds weight. Don't worry about filling theweave. That adds weight. Two crosscoats should be plenty of dope/paint.11. Paint schemes are also highly personal, but I have found that certainpaint schemes and colors really make a Piet look classy. Simple two colorschemes like Blue/Cream, Blue/Orange, Red/Maroon, Anything/Cream with asimple bullet panel or fishhook stripe on the side of the fuselage is anextremely attractive design. I also like the big numbers on the wings alathe way it was. Oh yeah, If going this way with the numbers, get an N numberwith lots of 8s and 6s. That way when you buzz a member of the "greatunwashed" and he/she gets angry, he/she will have a hard time identifyingyou by N number when he/she calls the local FSDO. A logo under the cockpitalso looks great. Look and Mike Cuy's or Frank Pavliga's. They are simpleschemes and look fantastic.12. Topcoats. Use what you like but remember Polyurethane such as IMRON isvery toxic. It is not enough to wear a mask. I learned the hard way. Gainfrom my experience. Now if I have to spray polyurethane, I wear a full suitwith forced air filtered from outside of the shop. That is the only way tobe safe. It is also very expensive and can be quite heavy. From pastexperience it was easier to fix a dope or Polytone finish too if I screwedup. I also use an HVLP system when spraying. That is the way to go in myopinion. Polytone or dope is a good link to the past if you are a historybuff like me.13. Cost to cover? I am budgeting about 2000 for materials. That may be lowbut I am a good scrounger. Non aircraft type coverings will be lessexpensive of course. I think one could probably squeak by at 1000 to 1500 orso depending on how much equipment like spray guns and stuff one has to buy.14. Keep it light.15. My paint scheme will be simple. Hunter Green/Cream with a gold separatorstripe and the Johnny SkyRocket Special logo under the rear pit. Looking fora Walter Mikron engine if anyone has a line on one. That little inverted 65hp four cylinder screams Pietenpol!I am way too windy and need to go home now.TakeCare,-john-________________________________________________________________________________

Original Posted By: "Jack Phillips"
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Looking for:Thanks John,That wasn't easy.I too am afraid of that 2 part urethan process and will probably just go with the poly system to be safe. It's going to COST no matter which way one goes. Thanks for you interest and help. Hope to keep the covering under 35 lbs.Corky in La________________________________________________________________________________

Original Posted By: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
John,Good thoughts on covering! Glad to know you will approve of my colorscheme, too (once it's finished). My Pietenpol will be Forest Greenfuselage and vertical tail, Diana Cream wings and horizontal tail with a bitof gold pinstriping and a logo on the fuselage, with the N numbers on thewings (NX899JP), wire wheels uncovered and spruce landing gear struts leftin clear varnish. I am planning on using the PolyFiber process, but hadn'tdecided what weight of fabric to use. Based on your comments I willprobably go with the 1.7 oz. Fabric.Jack Phillips -----Original Message-----