Original Posted By: Fisherman Caye
I know from a discussion in December that good carbide saw blades on thetablesaw will leave a good finish for glue, but is it necessary to get aglass smooth surface that a power planer gives? Would a hand block planeput on a good glue surface after table sawing? One of my blades is 200 tooth blade for the table saw, and it's certainlynot a ripping blade, more for cabinetry type work I guess. I'm wondering ifthat blade is good for ripping longerons and spar material. I have a 40 or50 tooth combo carbide blade too.I remember Del M. and Chris B. have planers, and like them, but how to get agood surface for gluing laminations if you don't have one?What say you, Doug Bryant? You have used lumberyard wood exclusively,haven't you? What do you use to get a good glue surface after ripping those2 x 4's?For those that have planers , have you planed wood with T-88 glue? Someonein a post from 1997 mentioned T-88 would hurt the blades.Kent Hallsten, the worry-wortOklahoma City________________________________________________________________________________Date: 6 Mar 2002 12:28:20 -0800
Pietenpol-List: Power planers for woodworking
Re: Pietenpol-List: Power planers for woodworking
Original Posted By: del magsam
RE: Pietenpol-List: Power planers for woodworking
Original Posted By: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
Learned something working on the Tiger Moth horizontal stabilizer thisweekend.The inside surface (along the length) of the laminated leading edge sparlooked rough. I looked closer to find that it was milled into small ridgeslike the spacer in cardboard boxes. I scraped the glue and finish of the endof the laminations to see that the laminated pieces were all milled likethat, and they fit into each other perfectly. This greatly increased thegluing surface area. Neat idea if you have the tooling, time, and don't haveT-88!Just be sure your joints fit well and are clean cut or scraped. Preferablynot sanded; and that you do not spare the glue. The excess can be scraped ofif needs be.I am getting to like the simplicity of Pietenpol's design more and more as Idream about working on it and work on the Tiger.If there is any one thing a Brit engineer hates, it is unnecessarysimplicity!John Mc-----Original Message-----
Learned something working on the Tiger Moth horizontal stabilizer thisweekend.The inside surface (along the length) of the laminated leading edge sparlooked rough. I looked closer to find that it was milled into small ridgeslike the spacer in cardboard boxes. I scraped the glue and finish of the endof the laminations to see that the laminated pieces were all milled likethat, and they fit into each other perfectly. This greatly increased thegluing surface area. Neat idea if you have the tooling, time, and don't haveT-88!Just be sure your joints fit well and are clean cut or scraped. Preferablynot sanded; and that you do not spare the glue. The excess can be scraped ofif needs be.I am getting to like the simplicity of Pietenpol's design more and more as Idream about working on it and work on the Tiger.If there is any one thing a Brit engineer hates, it is unnecessarysimplicity!John Mc-----Original Message-----