Brodhead Pietenpol Association

Original Posted By: Matt Dralle
Hi allI been lurking on the list for quit some time and really like the waythis list works, its like coming home to family and hearing all thethings that happened today.The reason that I'm writing is that I started making my rib jig, thenwent to the archive and read up on it. Very confusing.Does anyone have an accurate cad drawing for a rib with 1" holes for thespars?I want to make a three piece wing with 1" routed sparsThanxDeon EngelmannEAA322 Midrand # SA12055PretoriaSouth Africa________________________________________________________________________________Date: Sat, 24 Jan 2004 11:57:11 -0800

Original Posted By: walt evans
If the mains are too far forward the tail will drop too quick on roll out and willbe difficult to lift in the first of the take off roll.Hank ----- Original Message -----

Original Posted By: "Jim Markle"
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Rib jigIn a message dated 1/24/04 1:25:14 PM Central Standard Time, engelmannd(at)icon.co.za writes:>Deon,If you just measure out the dimensions listed on the plans, then blend in the place on the top where there is a little dip, you'll be just fine to build the ribs to this shape.Chuck GantzerWichita KSNX770CG________________________________________________________________________________

Original Posted By: Andimaxd(at)aol.com
HiHere are some pics of my rib jig.The paper will be removed and the rib redrawn on the jig when completedPlease give comments and critique as needed.ThanxDeon EngelmannEAA322 Midrand # SA12055PretoriaSouth Africa________________________________________________________________________________

Original Posted By: "PHILIP HUMPHREY"
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Rib jigDeon:Make sure that, when you finish your jig, all of the ribs will be identical. On mine, the outside cannot move and everything is pinned up against it from the inside. This produces identical ribs. The cams are not bottomed out. The holes are offset and will turn farther if the wood happens to be a little narrower, or not as far if the strips are a little wider. Then secured with thewing-nuts. There will be some variance in the cap strips and some of them are more flexible than others. From the look of your jig right now, it looks like if some of the strips bend easier than others, the curves on the bottom andtop of your ribs may change from rib to rib. But that's your call, this is what makes homebuilding so much fun.You have drawn in uprights on both sides of the spars. You don't really need this, you only need them on the inboard sides of your spars; you will put in compression X-bracing wires inside the wing which will force the spars together. If you feel you must put them (the uprights) in anyway, wait until youhave glued the ribs to the spars or you will have a very difficult time slidingthem on to the spars. If you put them on last you will have a much tighter fit/and less cursing !!I used wax paper and scotch tape to keep the glue off of the jig. If you could make the jig out of Plexiglas you wouldn't need anything as the glue wouldnot stick. I could not find anything thick enough made out of plastic that was large enough and affordable. I have read where others have and said it worked quite well.Let me know if you have any other questions or don't understand my view point on something.You better get to bed boy, isn't it like 11:30 p.m. there?mdPS Did you get those pics of my plane, what do you think?________________________________________________________________________________

Original Posted By: "Bert Conoly"
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Rib jigDeon, I'm going to try the picture thing. This is my first try with this new fangled digital camera, so let me know if it turns out. As Max pointed out, the outside perimiter of all the ribs must be identical. From the looks of your rib jig, it doesn't appear you have these supportsinstalled yet. Make sure the capstrips contact these blocks, with some type of blocking from the opposite side. Max used a cam lobe, which is the method I used when I built the ribs for my Tailwind, and it works really well. It compensates for variations in the thickness (1/4") of the capstrips. The otherdimension that you have to pay particular attention to, is the dimension between the spars. The plans call out 27 3/4" between the spars. If you cut apiece of scrap wood to the dimensions of the spars, (1" X 4 3/4") then installthese blocks where the spars go. Make these blocks about 5/8" or 3/4" long, sothey stick up higher than the capstrips, and you can install the gussets up against it, and maintain identical placements of the gussets. An actual pieceof the spar itself would be even better, if you already have the spars, and you can afford to cut a couple of pieces off the end of the spar. Just make sure your spars are long enough, beforehand. I think the gussets you have marked out on your paper, between the spars, could be just a little bit longer. I made mine 1 3/4" X 1". I see you haven't yet drawn in the one on the top. A small problem I had when I was building my ribs, was that the 1/2" dimension varied in the capstrips, and some of the upright sticks wasn't quiteflush with the top & bottom cap strips, where the gussets go. I made small sanding blocks, with sticky back 100 grit sand paper, and plane down the area wherethe gussets go, so it was flush. Be sure to remove all dust, before you glue the gussets on with T88 adhesive. You could use wax paper, or some type of package tape on the places you don't want the adhesive to stick. After the adhesive has thoroughly cured, and you carefully pop the rib out of the jig, flip it over to install the gussets on the other side. Rough upthe area a little bit because it will be as smooth as the non stick surface, where the epoxy runs down. Install new pieces in the jig, so you can use the same batch of adhesive for both opporations. You'll eventually figure out howbig a batch you need. Don't use wax coated cups to mix epoxy. When you have extra epoxy left over, make a destructive test piece, with scraps. I numbered (with a pencil, where there wasn't going to be any adhesive), and cut all the cap strip lengths, and gussets, after I built my second rib. It's a slow process to complete a ship set of ribs, but it is an enjoyable opporation. A rib a day. It's a good idea to build two extra ribs, one for destructive tests, and one to proudly hang on your wall !! This also gives you the opportunity to select the best ones for the wing. When you're all done with the ribs, you've earned the right to do the dance called the 'Rib Jig' !!!Chuck GantzerWichita KSNX770CG________________________________________________________________________________

Original Posted By: Jim Markle
HiI looked, I listened and hopefully I learned.I took your advice in supporting the outside of the cap strips andrebuild the jig. Here are some updated pics.Comments?Deon EngelmannEAA322 Midrand # SA12055PretoriaSouth Africa________________________________________________________________________________Date: Mon, 26 Jan 2004 16:00:20 -0600 (GMT-06:00)

Original Posted By:
Chuck,Thanks for the rib building description. Great ideas for us first time woodbuilders. Great info.Alex Sloan----- Original Message -----

Original Posted By: "Deon Engelmann"
You guys have GOT to get real about attaching photos to thesee-mails!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!Once again, it took over an hour to download this email, and my computertimed out twice!PLEASE THINK before you attach so many photos, not all of us have DSL lines.While I am complaining, I am sure that Matt will join me in asking thatreplys be kept meaningful, or be directed to the original sender only. Iget between 50 and 100 e-mails a day from this list, and the vast majorityof them are only "attaboys" or "way cool".OK, off the box now.Gene----- Original Message -----

Original Posted By: Mark Roberts
Thank you Jorge!!I will drop George an email... I plan to attend the Sacramento gathering, and hope to meet you there! -Perhaps George can make it as well...I am occasionally in Hanford, so perhaps I can meet you sometime and see your Piet too!MarkOn Mon, Jul 27, 2009 at 10:46 PM, jorge lizarraga wrote:hi IM Jorge livin in hanfor and build one piet another person in tulery build to but george benson have a old flyable piet in wood lake and senyou his mail to- ba.flyer(at)hotmail.com...--- On Mon, 7/27/09, Mark Roberts wrote:you have one fly or building one to tanks for you note

Original Posted By: VAHOWDY(at)aol.com
Well it's finaly time for me to start building so first job is make a rib jig, but I am confused. Bernie's plans don't show vertical members either side of the spars but most of the rib pictures I've seen have vertical members both sides of both spars. And without these vertical members I don't see much attachment area for the rib to spar joint.And speaking of spars the plans call for a routed 1 inch spars but I've heard talk of unrouted 3/4 inch spars and I've seen pictures of built up spars but I've never seen any plans. And if you route the spars that means the ribs only glue to the spar at the top and bottom and not along the whole face. So I am confused and would welcome any enlightenment.Starting Model A powered long fuselage one piece wing. Pilot 6 foot tall and 220 pounds so I need to keep the airplane light. Some how it's easier to reduce weight on the airframe than on the pilot.Thanks Mike McGowan Hallsville, Missourishadetree(at)socket.net________________________________________________________________________________

Original Posted By: "K5YAC"
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Re: scout fuselageThanks Wil, I did go with each bay(station) dimensions. The side went together smoothly and everything fit. If I was to space out the 6" It would have changed the seat back and bulkhead dimensions. As it is,a tape line shows me they will fit fine. I had the day off and got a lot done. It's fun to be building. I was letting the problem of not having the lumber stop me. I went to the local lumber yard and sorted thru the spruce. The long (18/20 feet) 2X10 was the clearest material they had. I got it home and studied the best way rip it. I have a surface planner, so with a little work, was able to get my aircraft grade spruce. It's not hard to watch grain and run out. Now if I just had a hamster to use up all the shavings I made. Howdy**************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy steps! =JulystepsfooterNO115)________________________________________________________________________________Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Rib jig

Original Posted By: jorge lizarraga
Mike:I'm no expert as I am currently working on my wings too, but I can tell you someof what has been passed on to me through this forum.On the additional uprights, they are not necessary, but many have chose to addthese in order to have more surface area in contact with the spar. I added themas they just seem like a good idea with minimal weight gain. As for the sparoptions... several have used a 1" spar, others a 3/4". Some choose to routetheir material for weight savings (I think that is the only reason), othersdo not. I am using a 3/4" spruce spar, non-routed, as many have told me thatthis option is very strong and plenty light. Perhaps some are using a heavierwood that choose to route, or maybe a thicker piece of wood that is not as strongas other types that can be cut thinner? I'm not real sure of the advantagesof a built up spar without taking another look at that chapter... surely someonewill explain. I am a relative beginner, so I'm certain someone will come along with additionalinformation. I just saw your post and wanted to reply with something sincemany from the group are off looking at airplanes this week. --------Mark - working on wingsRead this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ______Date: Tue, 28 Jul 2009 21:32:25 -0700 (PDT)