Brodhead Pietenpol Association

Original Posted By: Clif Dawson

Original Posted By: "Javier Cruz"
I'm at that stage too on my wings and I am going to use .020 Aluminum. Imay get on that next month.DJ----- Original Message -----

Original Posted By: "John Ford"

Original Posted By: Rcaprd(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: leading edgeIn a message dated 11/4/04 12:50:28 AM Central Standard Time, javcr(at)prodigy.net.mx writes:>Javier,I used the 1/16" plywood for the leading edge, spliced it over a rib, and extended it to the front edge of the leading edge, and aft side of the front spar. Don't glue it to the spar. I used adhesive, and NO nails. I experimentedwith how I would strap it down, without the use of nails, before I put the T88to it. After the plywood was installed, it stuck up a bit between the ribs, but once the fabric was shrunk down, it pulled it down between the ribs just perfectly. Chuck G.________________________________________________________________________________

Original Posted By: "Richard Navratil"
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: In a message dated 11/4/04 7:37:57 AM Central Standard Time, douweblumberg(at)earthlink.net writes:>Douwe,It's true, that you can't have enough secure storage space, where things don't come loose in turbulance and wind blowing around in the cockpit. As yougain flight time, you will no doubt continue to upgrade the cockpit area to suityour needs. Take advantage of the location of a second map holder on the leftside. These are places that are relatively easy to access during flight. As I noted in an earlier post, I use Velcro extensively, to secure things in the Pit. The stuff next to my hips aren't quite as easy to access during flight, but are doable. My biggest challenge during cross country flight is managing the current chart that I am using. I fold it all up to maybe a 6" X 8" portion, put it on my clipboard that is velcroed to my left leg. Any bigger thanthat, and it tends to flutter around, and wants to come out from under the clipboard. I have used those small paper holder clamps to help hold the chart,but then I fear dropping one on the floor and jaming the controls, so I tie EVERYTHING off with strings. I keep a Highlighter pen cap secured to the leftside of the windshield, and tie off the body of it with a string, to maintain myposition on the chart. Ever try to remove the pen cap, make a mark, and replace the cap with one hand, without dropping it ? It is a very convienentlocation to access the highlighter, and update my position on the chart with itevery 5 or 10 minutes. However, sometimes it becomes necessary to change chartsen route. Here is the challenge: Change out the chart without having it blow out of the cockpit, while trying to maintain course and altitude !! An oldStearman Pilot advised me to Always carry duplicate charts, in case one blows out. If they blow out of the cockpit, and get caught on the tail, you can't climb back there to retrieve them...however, I did see it done in a movie.Chuck G.________________________________________________________________________________

Original Posted By: Javier Cruz

Original Posted By: Don Morris

Original Posted By: "DJ Vegh"
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: leading edgeIn a message dated 11/5/04 9:37:34 AM Central Standard Time, carbarvo(at)knology.net writes:>I heard it was the cardboard from the old Quaker Oats cans. Although, he probably did vote for Franklin Roosevelt !!Chuck G.________________________________________________________________________________

Original Posted By:
Subject: Pietenpol-List: leading edgeI read that someone was glueing the leading edge ply from spar to spar around the leading edge. This is what i know as a "D" tube, built right, verystrong and rigid. You could not rig a wing like this. There would be lots of stress on the ply skin. And the but joints would have to part.Howdy________________________________________________________________________________

Original Posted By: "Gene Rambo"
Dan; excellent video. It really captures the essence of a typical Piet flight, or at least part of it. I notice that at least one of your lift struts has a splice in it. I also notice that your airplane wants to make carb ice as readily as mine does ;o) Oscar Zuniga Air Camper NX41CC San Antonio, TX mailto: taildrags(at)hotmail.com website at http://www.flysquirrel.net = - The Pietenpol-List Email Forum -http://www.matronics.com/atronics.com" bsp; -Matt Dralle, List Adontribution" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution ________________________________________________________________________________

Original Posted By: "Gene Rambo"
I KNOW this has been discussed, but a search of the archives does not turn up an answer to my exact question. I am ready to install the plywood on my leading edge. (OK, let's get terminology out of the way here. The very front piece I am calling the "nose piece." That, together with the plywood on the top side back to the spar forms the "leading edge." On the top of the spar between the ribs are the "filler strips")Since the plans don't specify, I made the filler strips 1/2" wide and glued them flush with the front face of the spar (for several reasons that I won't go into here) Because they follow the curve of the top capstrip, they are about 3/8" tall at the rear. OK, the plans say for the plywood to be 9" wide. Even overlapping the ply over the nose piece 1/2", the ply goes about 3/4" beyond the back of the filler strip. I don't have a problem with that, it probably helps fair the fabric in, but I was wondering what most of you do. Do any of you cut the ply to end at the back of the filler strip? Seems like that would make the edge pretty sharp for the fabric to follow.The next question is the sequence of glueing it on. I am planning on using nail strips to hold it down to the nose piece. Just wondering whether to glue/nail to the spar filler first and then bend down, or the other way around, or am I worrying too much??All this being said, I just found a place in Mass where I bought my 1/16" okume plywood. The 4x8 sheet was $27, the first two cuts were free. Cutting it into 9" pieces took 5 cuts, so for around $30 plus shipping, I had my leading edge material. Can't think of the name now, but contact me offline and I can give it to anyone who is interested.Gene________________________________________________________________________________

Original Posted By: "Gene Rambo"
Oh, and another thing, for what it is worth, I looked for banister material too, but that stuff is expensive!!!!!! I bought a 16' fir 2x4 at a local building supply place and ripped it in half leaving 2 pieces 1 1/2 by 1 3/4 (almost, just shy of 3/4). Ripped them to 1" by 1 3/4 and made the two cuts to approximate the curve, minimal planing required. Total cost, $30.Gene________________________________________________________________________________

Original Posted By: Gene Rambo
Gene,Do not install the filler strips on top of the spar between the ribs. It will produce a sharp transition when the fabric is pulled tight. This needs to be a smooth transition where the plywood ends.Greg C. ----- Original Message -----

Original Posted By: "ALAN LYSCARS"
Gene,Any way you can post a couple of pix on this? I'm having a difficult time understandingwhere the filler strip is located.Thanks, Tom--------Tom KreinerRead this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... __________

Original Posted By: jorge lizarraga
Qe??Al ----- Original Message -----

Original Posted By: gcardinal
that is why (I think) the plywood extends past the filler strip, so there will be no sharp edge.Gene ----- Original Message -----

Original Posted By: tkreiner
on top of the spar between the ribs ----- Original Message -----

Original Posted By: Michael Perez

Original Posted By: =0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A owner-pietenpol-list-server@matroni
=0A=0A=0A =0A =0A=0A =0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0AGene, =0A=0A =C2- =0A=0AAs others have already indicated, the=0Afiller strips are at least unnecessary, and are possibly detrimental.=C2- As for=0Ausing nailing strips to hold the plywood in place while the glue cures, that is=0Aexactly what I did =93 a layer of waxed paper over the plywood, then a thin=0Astrip of scrap spruce with nails driven through the spruce, the plywood and=0Ainto the ribs and leading edge.=C2- Once the glue had cured, I peeled off the=0Anailing strips and waxed paper and was done.=C2- The small gaps between panels was=0Afilled in with PolyFiber=99s =9CSuperFil=9D and sanded smooth. =0A=0A =C2- =0A=0A =0A=0A =C2- =0A=0AGood luck, =0A=0A =C2- =0A=0AJack=0A Phillips =0A=0ANX899JP =0A=0ARaleigh, NC =0A=0A =C2-

Original Posted By: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
Gene,As others have already indicated, the filler strips are at leastunnecessary, and are possibly detrimental. As for using nailing strips tohold the plywood in place while the glue cures, that is exactly what I did -a layer of waxed paper over the plywood, then a thin strip of scrap sprucewith nails driven through the spruce, the plywood and into the ribs andleading edge. Once the glue had cured, I peeled off the nailing strips andwaxed paper and was done. The small gaps between panels was filled in withPolyFiber's "SuperFil" and sanded smooth.Good luck, Jack PhillipsNX899JPRaleigh, NC _____

Original Posted By: Owen Davies