Original Posted By: wildhorsesracing
Pietenpol-List: Covering the edge of the cockpit coaming
RE: Pietenpol-List: Covering the edge of the cockpit coaming
Original Posted By: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
John,That was one of the more difficult tasks on the airplane (ranking up therewith making the landing gear struts and the windshield frames). I used =BD=94=93Funny pipe=94, which is black polyethylene tubing used in irrigation systems(you can buy it at Home Depot), and cut a lengthwise slit along the tubingthat you can fit over the cut edge of the aluminum. Then put your armaflexfoam over that. See where the foam ends when pushing the funny pipe hardagainst the aluminum to take up all the slop and then drill lacing holes inyour aluminum, tight up against the foam.Once that is done, you can take your leather and start in the middle of thecockpit cutout and begin lacing, using braided nylon twine. Once all theholes have been punched, take it all apart and trim your leather. My wifesewed a hem along the edge of the leather but that is probably notnecessary. Then do the final lacing with rawhide bootlaces. Pain in therear!Here are a couple of photos. One thing I didn=92t mention is that I used apiece of aluminum angle along the longeron to give support so you can gripthe coaming and put weight on it when getting in and out of the airplane.You can see how this went together with the funny pipe and the foam in thefirst picture. The aluminum cowling is not shown, but would slip into theslit in the funny pipe alongside the aluminum angle.Good luck!Jack PhillipsNX899JPRaleigh, NC _____
John,That was one of the more difficult tasks on the airplane (ranking up therewith making the landing gear struts and the windshield frames). I used =BD=94=93Funny pipe=94, which is black polyethylene tubing used in irrigation systems(you can buy it at Home Depot), and cut a lengthwise slit along the tubingthat you can fit over the cut edge of the aluminum. Then put your armaflexfoam over that. See where the foam ends when pushing the funny pipe hardagainst the aluminum to take up all the slop and then drill lacing holes inyour aluminum, tight up against the foam.Once that is done, you can take your leather and start in the middle of thecockpit cutout and begin lacing, using braided nylon twine. Once all theholes have been punched, take it all apart and trim your leather. My wifesewed a hem along the edge of the leather but that is probably notnecessary. Then do the final lacing with rawhide bootlaces. Pain in therear!Here are a couple of photos. One thing I didn=92t mention is that I used apiece of aluminum angle along the longeron to give support so you can gripthe coaming and put weight on it when getting in and out of the airplane.You can see how this went together with the funny pipe and the foam in thefirst picture. The aluminum cowling is not shown, but would slip into theslit in the funny pipe alongside the aluminum angle.Good luck!Jack PhillipsNX899JPRaleigh, NC _____
Pietenpol-List: Re: Using half of the tail cables? (long winded)
Original Posted By: "Bill Church"
Austinites - If there's a nice weekend when folks are available I'll bring it herefor show and tell. Let me know if there's interest. (I'm hoping to get alocal hangar someday so I can quit driving 3 hours to Houston to fly. Currentlyon several waiting lists.)Tim Willis - I'm the Aviation Safety Officer for TX Army Nat'l Guard and fly Apachesfor them. Call me when you'd like to get together: 512-422-6371. Ken Chambers - See above. I love showing it off.Speedbrake - (caution, editorial) we gotta get out & fly 'em when they're done.Some guys don't do that. Sometimes those flights may be challenging and feellike work. That's ok. Set limits, be smart, but go fly. That makes us betterpilots and proves the airplane. Respectfully submitted.Read this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ___Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Using half of the tail cables? (long winded)
Austinites - If there's a nice weekend when folks are available I'll bring it herefor show and tell. Let me know if there's interest. (I'm hoping to get alocal hangar someday so I can quit driving 3 hours to Houston to fly. Currentlyon several waiting lists.)Tim Willis - I'm the Aviation Safety Officer for TX Army Nat'l Guard and fly Apachesfor them. Call me when you'd like to get together: 512-422-6371. Ken Chambers - See above. I love showing it off.Speedbrake - (caution, editorial) we gotta get out & fly 'em when they're done.Some guys don't do that. Sometimes those flights may be challenging and feellike work. That's ok. Set limits, be smart, but go fly. That makes us betterpilots and proves the airplane. Respectfully submitted.Read this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ___Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Using half of the tail cables? (long winded)
Original Posted By: Douwe Blumberg
This is confusing.You ask why you would need the cables to adjust the leading edge, and then yousay that you would just shim the horizontal stab at the leading edge and re-adjustthe cable tension to suit. That sounds to me like you're going to need yourcables to adjust the leading edge.Every time the shimming is adjusted, all of your cable tensions will need to beadjusted as well, since the cable attachment points are not the same as the stabpivot point.A simple and effective method used by many builders for fine tuning the tail incidence, is achieved by simply adjusting the bracing cables, which DOES put aslight twist into the horizontal stab - but it is minor (probably visually imperceptibleunless you're looking for it) - it is only for fine tuning.So, the short answer to your original question:"Sound, worthy idea or a waste?"would be the latter, but I guess you've already come to that conclusion.There are alternate methods possible, but turnbuckles are likely the most practicalsolution. If you use a swaged stud with a threaded fork, it will look niceand clean, but you'll have a difficult time making adjustments, as you'll haveto disconnect the fork from the bracket, turn in or out the adjustment, thenpull the cable tight to re-insert the clevis pin (assuming - probably incorrectly- that you're planning to use a traditional method of fastening the fork,with clevis pins). With turnbuckles, the tension adjustments are done with allof the cables in place.Bill C.Read this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ______Date: Wed, 6 Jan 2010 11:15:01 -0500 (GMT-05:00)
This is confusing.You ask why you would need the cables to adjust the leading edge, and then yousay that you would just shim the horizontal stab at the leading edge and re-adjustthe cable tension to suit. That sounds to me like you're going to need yourcables to adjust the leading edge.Every time the shimming is adjusted, all of your cable tensions will need to beadjusted as well, since the cable attachment points are not the same as the stabpivot point.A simple and effective method used by many builders for fine tuning the tail incidence, is achieved by simply adjusting the bracing cables, which DOES put aslight twist into the horizontal stab - but it is minor (probably visually imperceptibleunless you're looking for it) - it is only for fine tuning.So, the short answer to your original question:"Sound, worthy idea or a waste?"would be the latter, but I guess you've already come to that conclusion.There are alternate methods possible, but turnbuckles are likely the most practicalsolution. If you use a swaged stud with a threaded fork, it will look niceand clean, but you'll have a difficult time making adjustments, as you'll haveto disconnect the fork from the bracket, turn in or out the adjustment, thenpull the cable tight to re-insert the clevis pin (assuming - probably incorrectly- that you're planning to use a traditional method of fastening the fork,with clevis pins). With turnbuckles, the tension adjustments are done with allof the cables in place.Bill C.Read this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ______Date: Wed, 6 Jan 2010 11:15:01 -0500 (GMT-05:00)