Re: Pietenpol-List: Re: Using half of the tail cables? (long winde
Posted: Tue Jan 05, 2010 7:42 pm
Original Posted By: Bill Church
One of the other things that I think Bill was pointing out in his post, which I didn't catch on the first read through, is that if you are going to adjust the tail by shimming the front of the horizontal stab you will then have to adjust the tension for all of your empennage control cables. If you raise the front of the stab, the upper elevator control horn attach points are now slightly farther away from the bellcrank, and the lower attach points are slightly closer. The rudder control cable would probably need a bit of tweaking as well. Unless poor flying characteristics require you to make gross adjustments by shimming the stab (and is there evidence that a Piet built dimensionally to plans with the CG in the proper range is going to need that?), it would be probably be easier and quicker to adjust a couple cables via turnbuckles on the tail than it would be to install different shims on the stab and have to readjust the tension on 6 control cables....RyanOn Wed, Jan 6, 2010 at 11:41 AM, Michael Perez wrote:Bill, my response was based on the previous email reply, not a direct question of why cables are needed for adjustment. I took Shad's email as meaning, use the cables only to move the leading edge. That may not have been his intent, so I asked. There was no mention-of shimming. No mention was made about fine tuning either. I would not use the cables to adjust the leading edge of anything. The shim is the adjustment, the cables are the support. It sounded to me that, if the tail was not flying well, that the cables would be adjusted to twist the thing.-I am not a fan of twist. I believe my email explained itself quite well. Shim as needed, adjust cables to proper tension/correct alignment.-"...insert the clevis pin (assuming - probably incorrectly - that you're planning to use a traditional method of fastening the fork, with clevis pins). "-I thought I would make some balsa wood pins to slip into the fork and hold it there with thread.-As I stated, I have a handle on it now.------ On Wed, 1/6/10, Bill Church wrote:
One of the other things that I think Bill was pointing out in his post, which I didn't catch on the first read through, is that if you are going to adjust the tail by shimming the front of the horizontal stab you will then have to adjust the tension for all of your empennage control cables. If you raise the front of the stab, the upper elevator control horn attach points are now slightly farther away from the bellcrank, and the lower attach points are slightly closer. The rudder control cable would probably need a bit of tweaking as well. Unless poor flying characteristics require you to make gross adjustments by shimming the stab (and is there evidence that a Piet built dimensionally to plans with the CG in the proper range is going to need that?), it would be probably be easier and quicker to adjust a couple cables via turnbuckles on the tail than it would be to install different shims on the stab and have to readjust the tension on 6 control cables....RyanOn Wed, Jan 6, 2010 at 11:41 AM, Michael Perez wrote:Bill, my response was based on the previous email reply, not a direct question of why cables are needed for adjustment. I took Shad's email as meaning, use the cables only to move the leading edge. That may not have been his intent, so I asked. There was no mention-of shimming. No mention was made about fine tuning either. I would not use the cables to adjust the leading edge of anything. The shim is the adjustment, the cables are the support. It sounded to me that, if the tail was not flying well, that the cables would be adjusted to twist the thing.-I am not a fan of twist. I believe my email explained itself quite well. Shim as needed, adjust cables to proper tension/correct alignment.-"...insert the clevis pin (assuming - probably incorrectly - that you're planning to use a traditional method of fastening the fork, with clevis pins). "-I thought I would make some balsa wood pins to slip into the fork and hold it there with thread.-As I stated, I have a handle on it now.------ On Wed, 1/6/10, Bill Church wrote: