Brodhead Pietenpol Association

Original Posted By: Dan Yocum
Pietenpoler P.F. Beck is hosting the upcoming "CorvairCollege" in Barnwell, S.C. about a month from now.Info on William Wynne's website, here:http://www.flycorvair.com/hangar.htmlAlso on that page are pictures from the Collegeand California tour that just ended.Oscar ZunigaAir Camper NX41CCSan Antonio, TXmailto: taildrags(at)hotmail.comwebsite at http://www.flysquirrel.net ________________________________________________________________________________Subject: Pietenpol-List: Zinc coated t-nuts?

Original Posted By: "Skip Gadd"
All, is it acceptable to use zinc coated t-nuts (aka nut plates?) to attach thingto wood using screws? Will the nuts eventually rust? Thanks,Dan-- Dan Yocumyocum137(at)gmail.com"I fly because it releases my mind from the tyranny of petty things."________________________________________________________________________________

Original Posted By: "Billy McCaskill"
I had a Stearman fuel gauge that required a drain to keep moisture from freezingand ruining the gauge. I tried to first locate it at the lower , rear position,but it was , many times hit and damaged by passengers, so I moved it to theforward location and found it also unacceptable, so a plug went into that outletand I have flown with only a rear outlet for the past 25 years without anyincidents.Pieti LowellRead this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ___Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Zinc coated t-nuts?

Original Posted By: helspersew(at)aol.com
I think as long as you aren't using brass screws, I would think that you wouldprobably be ok using the zinc plated nuts. However I am neither a chemist oran A&P, so this is just my opinion.--------Billy McCaskillUrbana, ILtail section almost done, starting on ribs soonRead this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ___Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Zinc coated t-nuts?Date: Fri, 15 Oct 2010 07:21:58 -0400

Original Posted By:> Dan Yocum
Dan, Billy,Thanks. I'm in the process of replacing the top of my center section with a sheet of aluminum and I'm going to use stainless screws and small tee nuts sunk into the rib capstrip - these are the ribs sheeted in 1/16" ply so I won't be losing much strength by drilling #6 holes through them. Dan-- Dan Yocumyocum137(at)gmail.com"I fly because it releases my mind from the tyranny of petty things."On Oct 15, 2010, at 6:21 AM, helspersew(at)aol.com wrote:> Dan,> > I used plenty of zinc-plated T nuts in mine. Not worried in the least, especially cause they ended up getting coated by T-88 and/or varnish also.> > Dan Helsper> Poplar Grove, IL. > > > > -----Original Message-----

Original Posted By: "pineymb"
Looking at my options for spoked wheels. Are the 19 or 21 inch better or is thedifference not worth worrying about? I have found some 21" wheels from a HarleyDavidson on Ebay which look ok.http://cgi.ebay.com.au/21-X-2-15-40-SPO ... 3ca6c94cIs the width correct? I believe these come with a 1" bearing for the axle but Isee most are using a 1.5" axle on their builds?I guess the bearings could be changed maybe?Any feedback is appreciated.Scotty--------ScottyTamworth, AustraliaBuilding a Corvair Powered Pietenpol Air Camperwww.scottyspietenpol.comRead this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ___Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Zinc coated t-nuts?

Original Posted By: "Gary Boothe"
Just a suggestion but what I did was use 8/32 rivet nuts (knurled type) which pulledand seated very nicely in the thin ply. Might be easier than installingT-nuts. This also allows the aluminum cover to be made smaller leaving space forthe gap seals.Screws along the leading and trailing edge are #8 x 1/2 stainless sheet metal screwsfasten directly into the spars.--------Adrian MWinnipeg, MBCanadaRead this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ttachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc0 ... __________

Original Posted By: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
Scotty,I don't know much about Harley's and what type of wheel a Softtail takes,but those hubs look a little odd for our use (I could be wrong!). I used 21"Sportster front wheels, which worked easily to adapt. The company I boughtthem from, Paugcho, builds custom motorcycles and adapts all their wheelsfor 1" axles. Using hollow axle material, you can easily step down to 1",even if you start with 1.5". I don't think 19 vs 20 inch makes muchdifference. Before building my gear, I bought the wheels so that I couldwork that dimension in to the deck height / deck angle. You can check outmore about my gear at www.westcoatpiet.com (thanks Chris!). Best of luck toyou...Gary BootheCool, CAPietenpolWW Corvair Conversion, RunningTail done, Fuselage on gear21 ribs done-----Original Message-----

Original Posted By: Michael Perez

Original Posted By: Dan Yocum
Thanks Gary...I appreciate your time in explaining your method. great help ...Thanksmate!Scotty --------ScottyTamworth, AustraliaBuilding a Corvair Powered Pietenpol Air Camperwww.scottyspietenpol.comRead this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ___Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Re: Zinc coated t-nuts?

Original Posted By: "pineymb"
Guys,In looking for 1.5mm plywood, I called Boulter Plywood and asked for 1.5mm Okumeplywood, and they gave me a price of $49 per 4x8 sheet. Since I had seen theirad earlier this year for $29 for the same sheets, I was sorry that I had missedthe sale. So I searched and came across a site that has 1.5 mm AircraftBirch Plywood in 4.4 sheets - Plywood & Door, with several locations around theUS. Their cost is $23. per sheet, which translates to $46 for a 4 x 8. (Addshipping and you have a pretty steep price.)I mentioned this to Dick Navratil, and lamented the fact that I didn't jump onthe sale that Boulter Plywood listed in Sport Aviation. Dick emailed me backthe next day to tell me the ad was still there and current. So, I called Boulter Friday afternoon, and told them I just saw the ad in the currentSport Aviation, and they extended the price to me at $29 per sheet.After they took the order they called back late in the afternoon, and said if Iwanted to add to the order they would extend the price, but they were going tocontact EAA on Monday - tomorrow - and rescind the price.So, if you need gusset material, NOW is the time to jump on this and let them knowyou just saw the ad, and want to place an order.Please, however, do not mention this post, or my name, as I don't want my orderupset.Best luck to all!--------Tom KreinerRead this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ___Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Zinc coated t-nuts?

Original Posted By: norm
DanWhat I did was put a slight kink on all edges which makes for a wrinkle free andfairly snug fit. Should be no problems with water especially in static mode.I suppose one could put a very thin gasket material all around if moisture wasa concern.--------Adrian MWinnipeg, MBCanadaRead this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ttachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc0 ... ______Date: Sun, 17 Oct 2010 08:36:35 -0700 (PDT)

Original Posted By: "kevinpurtee"
Raymond wrote:>I am not getting the idle screw to help as far as>doing away with the dead spot.If you look at the way the Stromberg carb is set up, you'llsee that the idle circuit opens up into the throat of thecarb right where the throttle butterfly plate contacts thewall of the throat. In fact, when you pull back the throttleall the way back to idle, that's the only time there isenough 'signal' for the carb to pull fuel through thatcircuit. You can see this by looking at Neal Wright'sdiagram of the carb fuel circuits on pg. 2, here:http://www.bowersflybaby.com/tech/Strom ... uff.pdfand the idle fuel circuit is sort of in violet.By design, then, adjusting the idle mixture screwshould only affect the engine operation when the throttleis at idle and your problem is not at idle... it's in thefirst opening of the throttle as you come off of idle.>From Harry Fenton, on the FlyBaby site: "Your stumble isprobably due to blocked or obstructed bleed hole. If oneof the bleed holes which serves as the transition from idleto higher power settings is blocked, the engine will stumble.Another possibility is that the holes where the throttle shaftpasses through the carb body are worn. If too much air ispulled through the holes, then the mixture will lean out andthe carb will stumble until more fuel is available. If theengine was previously used on a homebuilt, then perhaps thecarb air box was too small.""If you look into the carb throat, there is an extremelysmall hole just above the butterfly valve in the carb throatwhich opens up a circuit from idle to mid-range power.If thispassage is obstructed, then the carb will stumble as thethrottle is advanced through the 1300-1500 rpm range.DO NOTuse compressed air to blow through the passage as you run thevery likely risk of pulling a sudden vacuum in the float chamberand the float can implode or distort.The most correct way toclear this passage would be to disassemble the carb and try toclear out the passage with an ultrasonic cleaner." Oscar ZunigaAir Camper NX41CCSan Antonio, TXmailto: taildrags(at)hotmail.comwebsite at http://www.flysquirrel.net ________________________________________________________________________________Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Zinc coated t-nuts?

Original Posted By: Ben Charvet
Now Dan, you KNOW you're not going to keep water out, even if you seal the tankcover. Seal if you must, but you'll still need drain holes. Ask me how I know. Right, Lowell?--------Kevin PurteeNX899KPAustin/Georgetown, TXRead this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ______Date: Sun, 17 Oct 2010 14:07:48 -0400