Brodhead Pietenpol Association

Original Posted By: "Billy McCaskill"
No, Captain doesn't play any instrument, but he is a charter boat captain. Hetakes people on fishing trips. I love to fish too.--------TuckerRead this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ___Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: worn out screw holes in wood

Original Posted By: Kip and Beth Gardner
Steve, how big are the holes you are trying to repair? Many woodworking storessell plug cutters which will allow you to cut wood plugs from the face grainof a board instead of settling for end-grain dowels for plugging holes. I wouldtake a face grain plug over a dowel, but if the dowel is what you have to settlefor then by all means harden the threads in them with the CA glue. I thinkthat this fix should last you for many more years. I personally think thatwood screws driven into CA-hardened wood are probably less resistant to backingout from vibration than machine screws driven into brass thread inserts.--------Billy McCaskillUrbana, ILtail section almost done, starting on ribs soonRead this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... __________

Original Posted By: Oscar Zuniga
Go with Gene Rambo's advice - it works, it's simple, it does not create any risk of further weakening your longerons, and it can be easily repeated in 20 years when you have to do it again. The only thing I'd add is use Titebond 3 glue - much better than Elmer's, but derived from it & nearly waterproof. I use it all the time for structural repairs in non-aircraft applications & it's good stuff.Kip GardnerOn Oct 24, 2010, at 10:34 PM, Billy McCaskill wrote:> >> Steve, how big are the holes you are trying to repair? Many > woodworking stores sell plug cutters which will allow you to cut > wood plugs from the face grain of a board instead of settling for > end-grain dowels for plugging holes. I would take a face grain > plug over a dowel, but if the dowel is what you have to settle for > then by all means harden the threads in them with the CA glue. I > think that this fix should last you for many more years. I > personally think that wood screws driven into CA-hardened wood are > probably less resistant to backing out from vibration than machine > screws driven into brass thread inserts.>> --------> Billy McCaskill> Urbana, IL> tail section almost done, starting on ribs soon>>> Read this topic online here:>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... __________

Original Posted By: Michael Perez
I had a wood screw wallow out where one of the tailattach brackets mounts to the longeron. I used thecyanoacrylate "super glue" in the hole, but insteadof a wood screw, I used a machine screw.By the way, for those who are mounting verticalstabilizers, consider offsetting the nose of the VSto help with trimming the airplane in yaw. My VSwas set in line with the aircraft centerline and hada bent metal rudder trim tab. I have now offset theVS and removed the rudder trim tab. It's close, butcould have used just a smidge more offset of the VSas well as a bit more right thrust on the enginemount. Working on it, but the airplane is gettingcloser and closer to flying hands and feet off, ifonly for short periods of time.I have seen setups where builders have left the mountbrackets for the nose of the VS quite a bit away fromit on either side so that washers could be added orsubtracted from each side, allowing for adjustmentof the offset.Oscar ZunigaAir Camper NX41CCSan Antonio, TXmailto: taildrags(at)hotmail.comwebsite at http://www.flysquirrel.net ________________________________________________________________________________Date: Mon, 25 Oct 2010 07:13:18 -0700 (PDT)