Brodhead Pietenpol Association

Original Posted By: "tools"
I've got two shutoff valves, one coming from the wing tank (which drains directlyto the header tank), the other after the header tank before the engine.There's also valved port coming from the top of the header tank, which allows meto vent the headspace from it (which is necessary when filling the tank initially,and anytime afterwards when some air from the wing tank might have gotteninto the header tank as when it's nearly empty, which I've never done yet).I do double check for air space in the header tank every few flights, and haven'tfound any, which is a nice feel good sort of thing that there's no leaks orplumbing problems.I can drain the header tank by closing off the wing tank, opening the header tankvent valve, then opening the drain on the gascolator.So, yes and yes, but it's not quite just that simple. I didn't know anything aboutthe value of a header tank until Dick N explained it all to me. I wouldn'tbe without one now. Even the Glastars I fly owned by the EAA have had a sortof header tank retrofitted to them. Without one, I'd be hesitant taking awing tank alone below about a third or a quarter.Read this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ___Subject: Pietenpol-List: Horiz stab mounting.

Original Posted By: Michael Perez
Curious how most folks have mounted their horiz stab?While rebuilding the last foot of my fuse, I'm redoing that mounting. As it turnsout, the upper longerons broke right at where I have through bolts mountingthe stab, which go through the main (or center) spar of the stab.There are mounting bolt holes in the leading edge, but not used. My stab is uncoveredand while mocking everything together, I noticed them and the whole arrangementgot me to researching...First, where the longerons broke, where the through holes are located, there isn'ta gusset plate which I found odd. I checked the plans, and the gusset platesare located right where depicted. However, I noticed that the plans callfor mounting the stab with screws, not through bolts, in four locations, the leadingedge and the center spar. The trailing edge is mounted with bolts throughthe stab, but into brackets that also hold the rudder and has a through boltmounted horizontally through the tailpost, no problem there.I decided that there's no problem with no mounting hardware on the leading edgeof the stab (it's how the stab is mounted on the J1 - and probably lots morestabs out there), especially with a much stronger through bolt. However, I didgo ahead and replace the exterior gusset plate (which I glued on only yesterday,only to remove it today!) with one that's extended aft about two inches toreinforce where the longeron has a hole through it. It's a small change, butI think necessary because of the through hole "modification". Not a huge deal, probably never would have manifested itself but not for a groundloop where some soft dirt caught the tail wheel and ripped off the tail post.Just curious if most folks are though bolting the stab, or using wood screws?If you're building and haven't covered your fuse yet, it's pretty easy to lookit all over and decide for yourself if it's a deal or not. If your fuse is covered,and through bolted, and the gusset plate isn't a bit longer, it wouldn'tbe hard to put a couple scarf plates on the longeron where the through boltis (one one the inside, the other on the bottom) without dismantling any morethan an inspection plate (or whatever access you have that allowed you to getthe nut on the back of that bolt). It is a good example of how the smallest change seems to have cascading effects.Read this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ______Date: Fri, 6 Sep 2013 03:45:57 -0700 (PDT)

Original Posted By: gliderx5(at)comcast.net