Brodhead Pietenpol Association

Original Posted By: "aerocarjake"
david(at)tynerroberts.com wrote:> Hi John,> > I import auto parts into the US from the UK and Europe - Maybe I could> arrange to bring some in for any folks interested? > > Can you give me some info regarding lengths and weights required for one> Piet and I'll work on a shipping quote from there?> > If anyone is interested, please let me know so I can get a rough idea of the> number of "kits" we'd be looking at.> > Would you also be able to advise on the specs of the tubing?> > Thanks, Dave> > --Hello David - Mark here. I am one of the guys buying this fairly large run ofstrut material - we are about 10 people in total, and each of us are getting 8lengths of 2.8 - 3.0 M (about 10 feet) - 2.69" x 1.44" x 0.049". There is evena guy in Australia who is getting a set. It may even be possible to add tothe order, although they should be making the draw very soon. they will be about100 for each length, so about $170 each for you + shipping and any importduty, taxes, etc......I can enquire if you are interested, otherwise, some of us will have some to sell,if we decide NOT to build a Scout!!MarkRead this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ___Subject: Pietenpol-List: Welding control horns...

Original Posted By: Rick
Hello good Piet-ple,Well I finished fabricating the rudder and elevator control horns just in timeto have them welded by Mike (from "Ready Weld") on Friday. I schedule him to stopover "just a little before I am ready" to motivate me to make progress (ha!)A big nod goes to Bill Church (just in time - reading this forum last week) soI could include his "dang, that's a better way" idea. (His idea is a channel asa third part instead of bending over flanges.)Attached are some photos of Mike tack welding a horn along with a shot of a finishedelevator horn in position. The 5/8 flat stock runs all the way to the channel- inside the horn - and was welded to the channel before the horn was weldedaround it. I am putting a bolt through the flange in a different orientation(hole through the wood elevator spar not yet drilled in this picture) so itdoes not interfere with the covering. I have also added pictures of the belcrankassembly horns that he also welded on Friday. My cables and the horns willbe on the exterior of the plane such as several folks like Dick Navratil havedone - for a more "olde fashioned" look.....Feels like real good progress whenever a whole day of welding takes place. NowI have to figure out the routing for the rudder cables themselves...(!)Jake--------Jake Schultz - curator,Newport Way Air Museum (OK, it's just my home)Read this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ttachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/1_we ... ___Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Welding control horns...

Original Posted By: "Bill Church"
Curt,I have found the EAA videos great sources for advice on things like wobbly drillbits, Like this video-http://www.eaavideo.org/video.aspx?v=1786860478001Hope it helps.--------Semper Fi,Terry HandAthens, GARead this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ___Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Welding control horns...

Original Posted By: "dwilson"
Jake,Nice work. Always feels good to accomplish what you set out to do.But, for the record, the welded channel idea wasn't mine. I just copied an ideaI saw somewhere.Bill C.Read this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ___Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Welding control horns...

Original Posted By: "jarheadpilot82"
What kind of drilling are you having problems with? I'm assuming holes in sheetmetal...As for drill presses, it's kinda rare to find one that doesn't work well... I'vehad DOZENS of them from $80 Delta branded asian imports, older Thai imports,scads of light old american made ones, and even more heavy industrial ones. Honestly, the simple cheap ones seem to work just as good as the really reallyexpensive ones. You might just have a lemon. If it's got a bent spindle, could try fixing it (notas difficult as it might sound), you really only need a way to roll it aroundon something pretty flat to find the bend, and a cheap hydraulic press.You said you found wobble in the spindle. That would indicate a bent spindle.If you meant runout, could just be a bad bearing. MOST newer drill press bearingsare gonna be under twenty bucks. However, runout can come from a loosespindle, or loose uppy and downy part. If the uppy and downy part is loose inthe drill press head, that's a more difficult fix. A marginal fix is to partylock it with the spindle lock mechanism to at least keep it still. As for hand drills, depends on what you're drilling. I've found my trusty oldMilwaukee hole shooter to be SUPER durable and capable of withstanding HUGE amountsof abuse, however, it's slow... not great for sheet metal. My waaay cheaperHitachi 3/8 drill spins at 1500 rpm, three times faster than the Milwaukee(and most 1/2" drills) and works great for small bits, sheet metal, pocket screwhole drilling, etc. My dad had a hard time with triangle holes in sheet metal when building his Hatz,he eventually switched to air drills for just that reason. They're even fasterthan the 1500 rpm Hitachi. If you don't want air tools, could consider anelectric die grinder with a small chuck on it. I whole heartedly agree with using a smaller bit, then reaming for REALLY roundholes. The other good way to do it is just chuck it up in a mill and use a endcutting bit. They make perfectly round holes. Many machinists don't use drillpresses at all, do all they're drilling in a mill. Easy to position, NOrunout or wobble, lots of speeds available. Lastly is the drill bit. SHARP is important. Good ones are definitely a plus.I prefer 135 degree points over 118 degree points for sheet metal. Four flutesharpening works great for drilling without pilot holes or center punches.Which brings up the point of center drilling. Put a really small hole where youwant the hole, then ANY drill will work WAAY better. The very middle of drillbits (the aris or something?) scrape, they don't cut. So if you drill a pilothole the lager bit doesn't have to do any scraping, only cutting. I keepa supply of carbide 1/16, 1/8 and 1/4 bits on hand for this. The carbide bitscut SO EASILY, but they break easily...Hope this helps.Read this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ___Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Welding control horns...

Original Posted By: "aerocarjake"
Oh ya, cobalt bits. They're coated and do work better. It's got to do with reducingthe amount of force required at the point of cutting and scraping. However,you lose that advantage as soon as you sharpen the bit as you grind thecoating off.Another however is that a bit worthy of coating, is usually made better than onenot worth coating, so even after sharpening, it's likely a better bit than anon coated one. However (yet again), a really good american made high speed steel (definitely avoidplain carbon steel drills) bit that isn't coated, is probably better thana cheap import bit that is...The most economical source of bits is machine shops, they usually have good onesand don't bother to sharpen, and then learn to sharpen...Read this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ___Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Welding control horns...

Original Posted By: Rick
Good comments - thanks..... I talked with a lot of folks today and to avoid anyfuture corrosion issues, I will weld in a "bushing" at the clevis end of eachof these parts - so they will be completely sealed........... so they're notquite done yet - arghhh--------Jake Schultz - curator,Newport Way Air Museum (OK, it's just my home)Read this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ___Subject: Pietenpol-List: Windshield thickness