Original Posted By: pilot00(at)earthlink.net
Good a.m., gentlemen,I don't have the measurements handy (they are on my old hard disk) but I cuta piece of rectangular spruce for my trailing edge. I made it large enoughto rip at an angle in to two equally sized triangles that made the trailingedge. Little waste.John-----Original Message-----
Pietenpol-List: ribs
Pietenpol-List: ribs
Original Posted By: baileys(at)ktis.net (Robert M. Bailey)
This rib thing is baffling me. I dont want to appear stupid, but I cant figure out how the trailing edge is supposed to be. Does anyone have a good, closeup picture of the trailing edge? I am on rib #2, and making templates for all the other ribs, and I'm kindof stuck until I get this worked out. Having never actually seen a piece of trailing edge stock, it is particularly hard to visualise the end of the rib.Thanks all.Richard-------------------------------------------------Homepage: http://207.140.1.221/w3builder_________ ... __________
This rib thing is baffling me. I dont want to appear stupid, but I cant figure out how the trailing edge is supposed to be. Does anyone have a good, closeup picture of the trailing edge? I am on rib #2, and making templates for all the other ribs, and I'm kindof stuck until I get this worked out. Having never actually seen a piece of trailing edge stock, it is particularly hard to visualise the end of the rib.Thanks all.Richard-------------------------------------------------Homepage: http://207.140.1.221/w3builder_________ ... __________
Pietenpol-List: Re: ribs
Original Posted By:> > Richard DeCosta
I was planning on using the wooden trailing edge, like on drawing #5 of BH Pienenpol's plans. The upper of the two drawings was the one I was going to use, with the 1 1/4" wooden trailing edge. On my rib plans, however, the top and bottom pieces of captrip do not meet as they do on the plans. If I bring them together at the 1 1/4" mark, the distance from the top capstrip to the bottom is too short according to the plans. That is what i am confused about.Here is an illustration of what I am talking about:http://24.92.153.209/PietRib.gifRichard> Richard,> Are you planning on using the aluminum trailing edge material or> what? Bob B.> > ----------
I was planning on using the wooden trailing edge, like on drawing #5 of BH Pienenpol's plans. The upper of the two drawings was the one I was going to use, with the 1 1/4" wooden trailing edge. On my rib plans, however, the top and bottom pieces of captrip do not meet as they do on the plans. If I bring them together at the 1 1/4" mark, the distance from the top capstrip to the bottom is too short according to the plans. That is what i am confused about.Here is an illustration of what I am talking about:http://24.92.153.209/PietRib.gifRichard> Richard,> Are you planning on using the aluminum trailing edge material or> what? Bob B.> > ----------
Pietenpol-List: Re: ribs
Original Posted By:> Richard DeCosta
Richard,Are you planning on using the aluminum trailing edge material or what?Bob B.
Richard,Are you planning on using the aluminum trailing edge material or what?Bob B.
Pietenpol-List: Re: ribs
Original Posted By:> >> > Richard DeCosta
I am really relieved to hear that. I though I was doing something wrong. Thanks!> > Richard> I don't think you will ever find that everything fits just> perfect. Cut> the rib either longer or shorter, whichever it is you need or cut it> just like they say and sandpaper the trailing edge to fit. It> doesn't make a lot of difference if the rib is 1/8 inch longer or> shorter. All that matters is that all the ribs are the same. When> you finish it will still be a Pietenpol Air Camper. Now if you> start making the ribs all 6 inches shorter that would make a> difference. To me that is what craftsmanship is all about, making> thing fit together and look good. I know you want perfection but it> ain't gonna happen. Start building and don't look back.> > > >I was planning on using the wooden trailing edge, like on drawing #5 > >of BH Pienenpol's plans. The upper of the two drawings was the one I > >was going to use, with the 1 1/4" wooden trailing edge. On my rib > >plans, however, the top and bottom pieces of captrip do not meet as > >they do on the plans. If I bring them together at the 1 1/4" mark, > >the distance from the top capstrip to the bottom is too short > >according to the plans. That is what i am confused about.> >> >Here is an illustration of what I am talking about:> >http://24.92.153.209/PietRib.gif> >> >Richard> >> >> Richard,> >> Are you planning on using the aluminum trailing edge material or> >> what? Bob B.> >> > >> ----------
I am really relieved to hear that. I though I was doing something wrong. Thanks!> > Richard> I don't think you will ever find that everything fits just> perfect. Cut> the rib either longer or shorter, whichever it is you need or cut it> just like they say and sandpaper the trailing edge to fit. It> doesn't make a lot of difference if the rib is 1/8 inch longer or> shorter. All that matters is that all the ribs are the same. When> you finish it will still be a Pietenpol Air Camper. Now if you> start making the ribs all 6 inches shorter that would make a> difference. To me that is what craftsmanship is all about, making> thing fit together and look good. I know you want perfection but it> ain't gonna happen. Start building and don't look back.> > > >I was planning on using the wooden trailing edge, like on drawing #5 > >of BH Pienenpol's plans. The upper of the two drawings was the one I > >was going to use, with the 1 1/4" wooden trailing edge. On my rib > >plans, however, the top and bottom pieces of captrip do not meet as > >they do on the plans. If I bring them together at the 1 1/4" mark, > >the distance from the top capstrip to the bottom is too short > >according to the plans. That is what i am confused about.> >> >Here is an illustration of what I am talking about:> >http://24.92.153.209/PietRib.gif> >> >Richard> >> >> Richard,> >> Are you planning on using the aluminum trailing edge material or> >> what? Bob B.> >> > >> ----------
Pietenpol-List: Re: ribs
Original Posted By:>> > Richard DeCosta
Richard I don't think you will ever find that everything fits just perfect. Cutthe rib either longer or shorter, whichever it is you need or cut it justlike they say and sandpaper the trailing edge to fit. It doesn't make alot of difference if the rib is 1/8 inch longer or shorter. All thatmatters is that all the ribs are the same. When you finish it will stillbe a Pietenpol Air Camper. Now if you start making the ribs all 6 inchesshorter that would make a difference. To me that is what craftsmanship isall about, making thing fit together and look good. I know you wantperfection but it ain't gonna happen. Start building and don't look back.>I was planning on using the wooden trailing edge, like on drawing #5 >of BH Pienenpol's plans. The upper of the two drawings was the one I >was going to use, with the 1 1/4" wooden trailing edge. On my rib >plans, however, the top and bottom pieces of captrip do not meet as >they do on the plans. If I bring them together at the 1 1/4" mark, >the distance from the top capstrip to the bottom is too short >according to the plans. That is what i am confused about.>>Here is an illustration of what I am talking about:>http://24.92.153.209/PietRib.gif>>Richard>>> Richard,>> Are you planning on using the aluminum trailing edge material or>> what? Bob B.>> >> ----------
Richard I don't think you will ever find that everything fits just perfect. Cutthe rib either longer or shorter, whichever it is you need or cut it justlike they say and sandpaper the trailing edge to fit. It doesn't make alot of difference if the rib is 1/8 inch longer or shorter. All thatmatters is that all the ribs are the same. When you finish it will stillbe a Pietenpol Air Camper. Now if you start making the ribs all 6 inchesshorter that would make a difference. To me that is what craftsmanship isall about, making thing fit together and look good. I know you wantperfection but it ain't gonna happen. Start building and don't look back.>I was planning on using the wooden trailing edge, like on drawing #5 >of BH Pienenpol's plans. The upper of the two drawings was the one I >was going to use, with the 1 1/4" wooden trailing edge. On my rib >plans, however, the top and bottom pieces of captrip do not meet as >they do on the plans. If I bring them together at the 1 1/4" mark, >the distance from the top capstrip to the bottom is too short >according to the plans. That is what i am confused about.>>Here is an illustration of what I am talking about:>http://24.92.153.209/PietRib.gif>>Richard>>> Richard,>> Are you planning on using the aluminum trailing edge material or>> what? Bob B.>> >> ----------
Pietenpol-List: Re: ribs
Original Posted By: John Greenlee
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: ribs>According to the plans that I have and the template, there are two choices.>One is a trangular type that has a radiused edge.>I think this can be made by using either an angled table saw or one of the>fancy angled band saws using a fence as the squaring reference point. I>think ( I am not to this stage but have consulted some wood working>companies who have made suggestions) that the radius can be made on a>router. If you need the part number I have them here somewhere and have>filed away for the future. The other is the same but has a tongue type of>male grove that inserts into a solid block that appears to be glued to the>trailing edge of the rib. These trailing and leading edges appear to span>the wing and are made in solid pieces. I have made a jig to do the ribsand>am finishing it up now. I am searching for a piet in my area of LosAngeles>so as to photograph. The photos will help tremendously. If I am lucky to>get this I will scan them and have them available for others via email.>>martin montague>>>This rib thing is baffling me. I dont want to appear stupid, but I>>cant figure out how the trailing edge is supposed to be. Does anyone>>have a good, closeup picture of the trailing edge? I am on rib #2,>>and making templates for all the other ribs, and I'm kindof stuck>>until I get this worked out. Having never actually seen a piece of>>trailing edge stock, it is particularly hard to visualise the end of>>the rib.>>>>Thanks all.>>>>Richard>>------------------------------------------------->>Homepage: http://207.140.1.221/w3builder>>>>>>___ ... __________
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: ribs>According to the plans that I have and the template, there are two choices.>One is a trangular type that has a radiused edge.>I think this can be made by using either an angled table saw or one of the>fancy angled band saws using a fence as the squaring reference point. I>think ( I am not to this stage but have consulted some wood working>companies who have made suggestions) that the radius can be made on a>router. If you need the part number I have them here somewhere and have>filed away for the future. The other is the same but has a tongue type of>male grove that inserts into a solid block that appears to be glued to the>trailing edge of the rib. These trailing and leading edges appear to span>the wing and are made in solid pieces. I have made a jig to do the ribsand>am finishing it up now. I am searching for a piet in my area of LosAngeles>so as to photograph. The photos will help tremendously. If I am lucky to>get this I will scan them and have them available for others via email.>>martin montague>>>This rib thing is baffling me. I dont want to appear stupid, but I>>cant figure out how the trailing edge is supposed to be. Does anyone>>have a good, closeup picture of the trailing edge? I am on rib #2,>>and making templates for all the other ribs, and I'm kindof stuck>>until I get this worked out. Having never actually seen a piece of>>trailing edge stock, it is particularly hard to visualise the end of>>the rib.>>>>Thanks all.>>>>Richard>>------------------------------------------------->>Homepage: http://207.140.1.221/w3builder>>>>>>___ ... __________
Pietenpol-List: Re: ribs
Original Posted By: pilot00(at)earthlink.net
According to the plans that I have and the template, there are two choices.One is a trangular type that has a radiused edge.I think this can be made by using either an angled table saw or one of thefancy angled band saws using a fence as the squaring reference point. Ithink ( I am not to this stage but have consulted some wood workingcompanies who have made suggestions) that the radius can be made on arouter. If you need the part number I have them here somewhere and havefiled away for the future. The other is the same but has a tongue type ofmale grove that inserts into a solid block that appears to be glued to thetrailing edge of the rib. These trailing and leading edges appear to spanthe wing and are made in solid pieces. I have made a jig to do the ribs andam finishing it up now. I am searching for a piet in my area of Los Angelesso as to photograph. The photos will help tremendously. If I am lucky toget this I will scan them and have them available for others via email.martin montague>This rib thing is baffling me. I dont want to appear stupid, but I >cant figure out how the trailing edge is supposed to be. Does anyone >have a good, closeup picture of the trailing edge? I am on rib #2, >and making templates for all the other ribs, and I'm kindof stuck >until I get this worked out. Having never actually seen a piece of >trailing edge stock, it is particularly hard to visualise the end of >the rib.>>Thanks all.>>Richard>------------------------------------------------->Homepage: http://207.140.1.221/w3builder>>_______ ... __________
According to the plans that I have and the template, there are two choices.One is a trangular type that has a radiused edge.I think this can be made by using either an angled table saw or one of thefancy angled band saws using a fence as the squaring reference point. Ithink ( I am not to this stage but have consulted some wood workingcompanies who have made suggestions) that the radius can be made on arouter. If you need the part number I have them here somewhere and havefiled away for the future. The other is the same but has a tongue type ofmale grove that inserts into a solid block that appears to be glued to thetrailing edge of the rib. These trailing and leading edges appear to spanthe wing and are made in solid pieces. I have made a jig to do the ribs andam finishing it up now. I am searching for a piet in my area of Los Angelesso as to photograph. The photos will help tremendously. If I am lucky toget this I will scan them and have them available for others via email.martin montague>This rib thing is baffling me. I dont want to appear stupid, but I >cant figure out how the trailing edge is supposed to be. Does anyone >have a good, closeup picture of the trailing edge? I am on rib #2, >and making templates for all the other ribs, and I'm kindof stuck >until I get this worked out. Having never actually seen a piece of >trailing edge stock, it is particularly hard to visualise the end of >the rib.>>Thanks all.>>Richard>------------------------------------------------->Homepage: http://207.140.1.221/w3builder>>_______ ... __________
Pietenpol-List: Re: ribs
Original Posted By:>> >> > Richard DeCosta
I understand what y'all talking about. The ribs will not come out perfectto the drawing. use the drawing as a guide for your jig and make the ribsthe same. It will work out fine. I have made many types of ribs for F.A.A.repairs and if they are a 1/8 off not to worry.>I am really relieved to hear that. I though I was doing something >wrong. Thanks!>>> >> Richard>> I don't think you will ever find that everything fits just>> perfect. Cut>> the rib either longer or shorter, whichever it is you need or cut it>> just like they say and sandpaper the trailing edge to fit. It>> doesn't make a lot of difference if the rib is 1/8 inch longer or>> shorter. All that matters is that all the ribs are the same. When>> you finish it will still be a Pietenpol Air Camper. Now if you>> start making the ribs all 6 inches shorter that would make a>> difference. To me that is what craftsmanship is all about, making>> thing fit together and look good. I know you want perfection but it>> ain't gonna happen. Start building and don't look back.>> >> >> >I was planning on using the wooden trailing edge, like on drawing #5 >> >of BH Pienenpol's plans. The upper of the two drawings was the one I >> >was going to use, with the 1 1/4" wooden trailing edge. On my rib >> >plans, however, the top and bottom pieces of captrip do not meet as >> >they do on the plans. If I bring them together at the 1 1/4" mark, >> >the distance from the top capstrip to the bottom is too short >> >according to the plans. That is what i am confused about.>> >>> >Here is an illustration of what I am talking about:>> >http://24.92.153.209/PietRib.gif>> >>> >Richard>> >>> >> Richard,>> >> Are you planning on using the aluminum trailing edge material or>> >> what? Bob B.>> >> >> >> ----------
I understand what y'all talking about. The ribs will not come out perfectto the drawing. use the drawing as a guide for your jig and make the ribsthe same. It will work out fine. I have made many types of ribs for F.A.A.repairs and if they are a 1/8 off not to worry.>I am really relieved to hear that. I though I was doing something >wrong. Thanks!>>> >> Richard>> I don't think you will ever find that everything fits just>> perfect. Cut>> the rib either longer or shorter, whichever it is you need or cut it>> just like they say and sandpaper the trailing edge to fit. It>> doesn't make a lot of difference if the rib is 1/8 inch longer or>> shorter. All that matters is that all the ribs are the same. When>> you finish it will still be a Pietenpol Air Camper. Now if you>> start making the ribs all 6 inches shorter that would make a>> difference. To me that is what craftsmanship is all about, making>> thing fit together and look good. I know you want perfection but it>> ain't gonna happen. Start building and don't look back.>> >> >> >I was planning on using the wooden trailing edge, like on drawing #5 >> >of BH Pienenpol's plans. The upper of the two drawings was the one I >> >was going to use, with the 1 1/4" wooden trailing edge. On my rib >> >plans, however, the top and bottom pieces of captrip do not meet as >> >they do on the plans. If I bring them together at the 1 1/4" mark, >> >the distance from the top capstrip to the bottom is too short >> >according to the plans. That is what i am confused about.>> >>> >Here is an illustration of what I am talking about:>> >http://24.92.153.209/PietRib.gif>> >>> >Richard>> >>> >> Richard,>> >> Are you planning on using the aluminum trailing edge material or>> >> what? Bob B.>> >> >> >> ----------
Pietenpol-List: Re: ribs
Original Posted By: Michael D Cuy
fishin wrote:> > Hey Mike===they say that confession is good for the soul,,,sounds like that> buy was also good for the pocket-book.I can't imagine spending an entire> winter building a set of ribs if they are available at the price you> mentioned.Do you know if Charlie is still assembling them???> JoeCLat I heard, he was still assembling them, but you need to pick them upin Brodhead. I'm pretty sure that I heard Charlie won't ship theribs...-Carmen----------------------Mr. Carmen A. NataliePresidentCA Natalie Associates, IncCANA WebSystems100 State Street Suite 1040Albany, New York 12207http://www.cana.comphone 518.436.4932fax 518.436.4933----------------------________________________________________________________________________________
fishin wrote:> > Hey Mike===they say that confession is good for the soul,,,sounds like that> buy was also good for the pocket-book.I can't imagine spending an entire> winter building a set of ribs if they are available at the price you> mentioned.Do you know if Charlie is still assembling them???> JoeCLat I heard, he was still assembling them, but you need to pick them upin Brodhead. I'm pretty sure that I heard Charlie won't ship theribs...-Carmen----------------------Mr. Carmen A. NataliePresidentCA Natalie Associates, IncCANA WebSystems100 State Street Suite 1040Albany, New York 12207http://www.cana.comphone 518.436.4932fax 518.436.4933----------------------________________________________________________________________________________
Pietenpol-List: Re: ribs
Original Posted By: Ed Nolan
When I bought mine, he offered to ship them- but it was easier to pick themup at Brodhead.Al S.>fishin wrote:>> >> Hey Mike===they say that confession is good for the soul,,,sounds like that>> buy was also good for the pocket-book.I can't imagine spending an entire>> winter building a set of ribs if they are available at the price you>> mentioned.Do you know if Charlie is still assembling them???>> JoeC>>Lat I heard, he was still assembling them, but you need to pick them up>in Brodhead. I'm pretty sure that I heard Charlie won't ship the>ribs...>>-Carmen>>---------------------->Mr. Carmen A. Natalie>President>CA Natalie Associates, Inc>CANA WebSystems>100 State Street Suite 1040>Albany, New York 12207>http://www.cana.com>phone 518.436.4932>fax 518.436.4933>---------------------->>________________________________________________________________________________
When I bought mine, he offered to ship them- but it was easier to pick themup at Brodhead.Al S.>fishin wrote:>> >> Hey Mike===they say that confession is good for the soul,,,sounds like that>> buy was also good for the pocket-book.I can't imagine spending an entire>> winter building a set of ribs if they are available at the price you>> mentioned.Do you know if Charlie is still assembling them???>> JoeC>>Lat I heard, he was still assembling them, but you need to pick them up>in Brodhead. I'm pretty sure that I heard Charlie won't ship the>ribs...>>-Carmen>>---------------------->Mr. Carmen A. Natalie>President>CA Natalie Associates, Inc>CANA WebSystems>100 State Street Suite 1040>Albany, New York 12207>http://www.cana.com>phone 518.436.4932>fax 518.436.4933>---------------------->>________________________________________________________________________________
Pietenpol-List: ribs
Original Posted By: "Jeff Hill"
Hey Larry, glad you're starting on the ribs. I found, though, that steaming is not necessary since the wood isn't that thick. I just soaked the first 18" or so in water for a couple of days and pre-bent them like Tony B. says. Worked like a charm. Some guys don't soak at all, they just put the dry wood right into the jig. After all the gussets are glued in on one side the rib will still hold its shape after being removed from the jig. I like the soaking because it takes some of the stress off of the rib and it is a simple technique.On another note, don't forget to wipe a layer of epoxy onto the entire inside of the gusset before you glue it to the rib. That will save you from having to do it after the rib is finished. Cheers, Jeff in Tx________________________________________________________________________________
Hey Larry, glad you're starting on the ribs. I found, though, that steaming is not necessary since the wood isn't that thick. I just soaked the first 18" or so in water for a couple of days and pre-bent them like Tony B. says. Worked like a charm. Some guys don't soak at all, they just put the dry wood right into the jig. After all the gussets are glued in on one side the rib will still hold its shape after being removed from the jig. I like the soaking because it takes some of the stress off of the rib and it is a simple technique.On another note, don't forget to wipe a layer of epoxy onto the entire inside of the gusset before you glue it to the rib. That will save you from having to do it after the rib is finished. Cheers, Jeff in Tx________________________________________________________________________________
Pietenpol-List: ribs
Original Posted By: TomTravis(at)aol.com
Has anyone found it neccesary or worth doing, steaming the bottom capstrip for the ribs? I'm making a form for the top capstrip and can use the bottomof the form for the shape of the bottom capstrip.Is it worth doing??George AllenHarrisburg, PAGeorgeA(at)PAonline.com(wait'n for wood Peit'. builder)________________________________________________________________________________
Has anyone found it neccesary or worth doing, steaming the bottom capstrip for the ribs? I'm making a form for the top capstrip and can use the bottomof the form for the shape of the bottom capstrip.Is it worth doing??George AllenHarrisburg, PAGeorgeA(at)PAonline.com(wait'n for wood Peit'. builder)________________________________________________________________________________
Re: Pietenpol-List: ribs
Original Posted By: Larry Neal
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: ribsGeorge,I found that steaming the bottom rib wasn't necessary. Tom Travis________________________________________________________________________________Date: Mon, 24 Dec 2001 10:03:36 -0600
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: ribsGeorge,I found that steaming the bottom rib wasn't necessary. Tom Travis________________________________________________________________________________Date: Mon, 24 Dec 2001 10:03:36 -0600
Re: Pietenpol-List: ribs
Original Posted By: Larry Neal
Pietenpol-List: El Cheapo Capstrip Steamer
Original Posted By: Isablcorky(at)aol.com
Subject: Pietenpol-List: El Cheapo Capstrip SteamerFWIW---I didn't find it necessary at all to steam the cap strips. Built allmy ribs this way and had no trouble at all.somply took a 3 foot length of 2" PVC pipe and caped one end. Filled it towithin 6-10" from the top and propped it up so as not to spill. day 1 putfirst cap strip in water to soak over night, day 2 took soaking cap stripfrom water and clamped in forming jig (as shown in Tony Bingilis book) put2nd cap strip in the water. day 3 took dryed and formed cap strip fromforming jig and put in rib jig, took soaking cap strip and put in formingjig and put fresh cap strip in water soaker. repeat the process each day andhad a freshly formed and dried cap strip ready for that days rib production.Hope this makes. didn't find it necessary to heat water at all, was justnecessary to soak overnight.regards and best Holiday Wishes to one and all.The adventures not in the destination, it's in the tripJoeC N99621________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Pietenpol-List: El Cheapo Capstrip SteamerFWIW---I didn't find it necessary at all to steam the cap strips. Built allmy ribs this way and had no trouble at all.somply took a 3 foot length of 2" PVC pipe and caped one end. Filled it towithin 6-10" from the top and propped it up so as not to spill. day 1 putfirst cap strip in water to soak over night, day 2 took soaking cap stripfrom water and clamped in forming jig (as shown in Tony Bingilis book) put2nd cap strip in the water. day 3 took dryed and formed cap strip fromforming jig and put in rib jig, took soaking cap strip and put in formingjig and put fresh cap strip in water soaker. repeat the process each day andhad a freshly formed and dried cap strip ready for that days rib production.Hope this makes. didn't find it necessary to heat water at all, was justnecessary to soak overnight.regards and best Holiday Wishes to one and all.The adventures not in the destination, it's in the tripJoeC N99621________________________________________________________________________________
Re: Pietenpol-List: El Cheapo Capstrip Steamer
Original Posted By: Larry Neal
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: El Cheapo Capstrip SteamerAnd you completed one beautiful set of ribs.Corky NX41CC________________________________________________________________________________Date: Tue, 25 Dec 2001 21:11:46 -0600
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: El Cheapo Capstrip SteamerAnd you completed one beautiful set of ribs.Corky NX41CC________________________________________________________________________________Date: Tue, 25 Dec 2001 21:11:46 -0600
Re: Pietenpol-List: El Cheapo Capstrip Steamer
Original Posted By: "Ted Brousseau"
thanks CorkyJoe> > And you completed one beautiful set of ribs.> Corky NX41CC________________________________________________________________________________
thanks CorkyJoe> > And you completed one beautiful set of ribs.> Corky NX41CC________________________________________________________________________________
Pietenpol-List: ribs
Original Posted By: "DJ Vegh"
DNA: do not archiveIts-Bogus: do not forward to list--- MIME Errors --- A message with no text/plain section was received. The entire body of the message was removed. Please resend the email using plaintext formatting. NOTE! This error can also occur when the poster of the message has a specific type of computer virus. This virus WAS NOT forwarded on to the List. The poster should be informed of the potential problem with their system as soon as possible.--- MIME Errors ---________________________________________________________________________________
DNA: do not archiveIts-Bogus: do not forward to list--- MIME Errors --- A message with no text/plain section was received. The entire body of the message was removed. Please resend the email using plaintext formatting. NOTE! This error can also occur when the poster of the message has a specific type of computer virus. This virus WAS NOT forwarded on to the List. The poster should be informed of the potential problem with their system as soon as possible.--- MIME Errors ---________________________________________________________________________________
Re: Pietenpol-List: ribs
Original Posted By: "Ben Ramler"
BenMost all gussets are different sizes. You need a full size plan for the ribs to make them.Dick N.----- Original Message -----
BenMost all gussets are different sizes. You need a full size plan for the ribs to make them.Dick N.----- Original Message -----
RE: Pietenpol-List: pilot weight/was builders ages
Original Posted By: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
Oscar,Great, I am planning on using the Corvair engine conversion and have alonger fuselage. I weigh about 230 and am 6'-5" tall. Sounds like I have theright set up for my size.I will be interested in your data on the W&BRegards from chilly AK!Rob-----Original Message-----
Oscar,Great, I am planning on using the Corvair engine conversion and have alonger fuselage. I weigh about 230 and am 6'-5" tall. Sounds like I have theright set up for my size.I will be interested in your data on the W&BRegards from chilly AK!Rob-----Original Message-----
RE: Pietenpol-List: ribs
Original Posted By: "Jack T. Textor"
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Weld cracks foundIn a message dated 1/8/2007 6:48:53 PM Central Standard Time, HelsperSew(at)aol.com writes:You are absolutely correct in your assumption. I TIG welded this axle. That's why I tac weld with the mig, but Always finish weld with Oxy / Accy.Chuck G.________________________________________________________________________________Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: ribsDate: Tue, 9 Jan 2007 13:25:18 -0600
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Weld cracks foundIn a message dated 1/8/2007 6:48:53 PM Central Standard Time, HelsperSew(at)aol.com writes:You are absolutely correct in your assumption. I TIG welded this axle. That's why I tac weld with the mig, but Always finish weld with Oxy / Accy.Chuck G.________________________________________________________________________________Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: ribsDate: Tue, 9 Jan 2007 13:25:18 -0600
> Pietenpol-List: ribs
Original Posted By: "Bill Princell"
There are no dimensions called out for the gussets. It's one of those places in the plans where you need to use the scale of the plans, a little eyeball dimensioning, a little imagination, a little guesswork and a little Kentucky windage. I have seen pictures of everything from little tiny ones that don't look like they would work to really oversized ones and they all seem to work fine. One of those places where you get to do your own thing. I will suggest standardizing them as much as possible so you dont have a different size gusset for each joint like I did. it's a lot easier to have only two or three sizes to deal with. If you have access to a papercutter you can cut some 1" strips and cut the gussets from them with shears or tin snips. have fun .... Ed G.>From: Ben Ramler >Reply-To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com>To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com>Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: ribs>Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2007 10:18:46 -0800 (PST)>>>I have the full rib drawing but I do not the dimensions.>>----- Original Message ---->From: Dick Navratil >To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com>Sent: Tuesday, January 9, 2007 11:01:07 AM>Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: ribs>>>>>Ben>Most all gussets are different sizes. You need a full size plan for the>ribs to make them.>Dick N.>----- Original Message ----->From: "Ben Ramler" >To: >Sent: Tuesday, January 09, 2007 10:46 AM>Subject: Pietenpol-List: ribs>>>does anyone know what the dimensions of the gussetts are on the ribs?>thanks? the only thing I have is 1" square gussetts, which will not work.>>take care,>>Ben>>__________________________________________________>>>__________________________________________________>>________________________________________________________________________________Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2007 13:58:02 -0600
There are no dimensions called out for the gussets. It's one of those places in the plans where you need to use the scale of the plans, a little eyeball dimensioning, a little imagination, a little guesswork and a little Kentucky windage. I have seen pictures of everything from little tiny ones that don't look like they would work to really oversized ones and they all seem to work fine. One of those places where you get to do your own thing. I will suggest standardizing them as much as possible so you dont have a different size gusset for each joint like I did. it's a lot easier to have only two or three sizes to deal with. If you have access to a papercutter you can cut some 1" strips and cut the gussets from them with shears or tin snips. have fun .... Ed G.>From: Ben Ramler >Reply-To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com>To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com>Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: ribs>Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2007 10:18:46 -0800 (PST)>>>I have the full rib drawing but I do not the dimensions.>>----- Original Message ---->From: Dick Navratil >To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com>Sent: Tuesday, January 9, 2007 11:01:07 AM>Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: ribs>>>>>Ben>Most all gussets are different sizes. You need a full size plan for the>ribs to make them.>Dick N.>----- Original Message ----->From: "Ben Ramler" >To: >Sent: Tuesday, January 09, 2007 10:46 AM>Subject: Pietenpol-List: ribs>>>does anyone know what the dimensions of the gussetts are on the ribs?>thanks? the only thing I have is 1" square gussetts, which will not work.>>take care,>>Ben>>__________________________________________________>>>__________________________________________________>>________________________________________________________________________________Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2007 13:58:02 -0600
Pietenpol-List: ribs
Original Posted By: "David Paule"
After soaking=2C boiling=2C and steaming the upper and lower pieces for the ribs=2C when I preform them in the jig I can feel some of the wood fibers breaking in the acute bend. I am using kiln dried ponderosa pine. I am making them 1/4 inch by 3/4 inch to make up for the 15% loss in strength compared to spruce. The breaking fibers bother me. Any thoughts appreciated. Big Steve _________________________________________________________________Chat with Messenger straight from your Hotmail inbox.http://www.microsoft.com/windows/window ... __________
After soaking=2C boiling=2C and steaming the upper and lower pieces for the ribs=2C when I preform them in the jig I can feel some of the wood fibers breaking in the acute bend. I am using kiln dried ponderosa pine. I am making them 1/4 inch by 3/4 inch to make up for the 15% loss in strength compared to spruce. The breaking fibers bother me. Any thoughts appreciated. Big Steve _________________________________________________________________Chat with Messenger straight from your Hotmail inbox.http://www.microsoft.com/windows/window ... __________
Re: Pietenpol-List: ribs
Original Posted By: stephen labash
Try steaming them, not soaking or boiling.David Paule ----- Original Message -----
Try steaming them, not soaking or boiling.David Paule ----- Original Message -----
RE: Pietenpol-List: ribs
Original Posted By: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
Big Steve,Mine are only =BC x =BD, and Poplar, but I am just soaking in cold water for aday or two (a piece of PVC pipe with one end plugged). Only the upper piecesare getting soaked as the lower ones take shape just fine. So far, I=92ve onlyhad one piece break=85probably a weakness in the grain.Gary BootheCool, Ca.PietenpolWW Corvair Conversion, mountedTail done, Fuselage on gear(16 ribs down=85) _____
Big Steve,Mine are only =BC x =BD, and Poplar, but I am just soaking in cold water for aday or two (a piece of PVC pipe with one end plugged). Only the upper piecesare getting soaked as the lower ones take shape just fine. So far, I=92ve onlyhad one piece break=85probably a weakness in the grain.Gary BootheCool, Ca.PietenpolWW Corvair Conversion, mountedTail done, Fuselage on gear(16 ribs down=85) _____
RE: Pietenpol-List: ribs
Original Posted By: slabash(at)hotmail.com
If there is only a 15% difference in strength why are you making them 50% larger / heavier??? Piet ribs are overbuilt anyway. My guess is 1/4 X 1/2 would be fine and 1/4 X 9/16ths would be way plenty. I made my root ribs 1/4 X 3/4 as per a recomendation from Chad Willey of St. Croix aircraft and they are bullet proof. I can't imagine doing them all that way. The extra wood may be the reason you're having trouble bending them. Just my two cents of course=2C You did ask for any thoughts.... Ed Grentzer
If there is only a 15% difference in strength why are you making them 50% larger / heavier??? Piet ribs are overbuilt anyway. My guess is 1/4 X 1/2 would be fine and 1/4 X 9/16ths would be way plenty. I made my root ribs 1/4 X 3/4 as per a recomendation from Chad Willey of St. Croix aircraft and they are bullet proof. I can't imagine doing them all that way. The extra wood may be the reason you're having trouble bending them. Just my two cents of course=2C You did ask for any thoughts.... Ed Grentzer
Re: Pietenpol-List: ribs
Original Posted By: "Dave and Connie"
Good point about the time of steaming. The shorter the steaming time the better. With lots of steam, two to four minutes might even do it.David Paule----- Original Message -----
Good point about the time of steaming. The shorter the steaming time the better. With lots of steam, two to four minutes might even do it.David Paule----- Original Message -----
Re: Pietenpol-List: ribs
Original Posted By: shad bell
Re: Pietenpol-List: Article on my Piet Project
Original Posted By: Dan Yocum
Re: Pietenpol-List: winter flying with an A65
Original Posted By: Dan Yocum
Pietenpol-List: Re: ribs
Original Posted By: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David Paule
Hunh?I've never heard of wood getting brittle by steaming too long.The theory behind steaming is that the elevated temperature and humidity breaksdown the lignin, which is basically the glue that holds the wood fibers together.When the lignin gets heated, it allows the wood fibers to slide a bit, whichresults in a more flexible piece of wood. The good thing is that when thewood returns to "normal" temperatures, the lignin re-sets, and the wood structurebecomes more rigid once again. As long as the wood is held in a new shapeduring the cooling process, the wood will retain a new shape when cooled, andalso retain the strength.Heating the wood without the added moisture that the steam provides may resultin increased brittle-ness, since the added heat would also likely dry the woodeven further than the beginning state.Soaking wood in water also softens up the wood a bit, which allows the wood tobend a bit more easily, but it will take longer to dry, and won't permit the samedegree of "bendability".I steamed my Sitka capstrips for about 15-20 minutes, and never had any of themeven think about snapping.Bill C. -----Original Message-----
Hunh?I've never heard of wood getting brittle by steaming too long.The theory behind steaming is that the elevated temperature and humidity breaksdown the lignin, which is basically the glue that holds the wood fibers together.When the lignin gets heated, it allows the wood fibers to slide a bit, whichresults in a more flexible piece of wood. The good thing is that when thewood returns to "normal" temperatures, the lignin re-sets, and the wood structurebecomes more rigid once again. As long as the wood is held in a new shapeduring the cooling process, the wood will retain a new shape when cooled, andalso retain the strength.Heating the wood without the added moisture that the steam provides may resultin increased brittle-ness, since the added heat would also likely dry the woodeven further than the beginning state.Soaking wood in water also softens up the wood a bit, which allows the wood tobend a bit more easily, but it will take longer to dry, and won't permit the samedegree of "bendability".I steamed my Sitka capstrips for about 15-20 minutes, and never had any of themeven think about snapping.Bill C. -----Original Message-----
Re: Pietenpol-List: ribs
Original Posted By: Dave and Connie
Re: Pietenpol-List: Re: ribs
Original Posted By: "Dave and Connie"
The topic came up with Ponderosa Pine.Maybe the thing to do is to use a more common aircraft wood....David Paule----- Original Message -----
The topic came up with Ponderosa Pine.Maybe the thing to do is to use a more common aircraft wood....David Paule----- Original Message -----
Pietenpol-List: Re: ribs
Original Posted By: "Clif Dawson"
Having been in the Fiber Board development industry for many years, supplying dehydratorssystems we would add steam to a screw with wood chips and with a giventime the output is only Lignin fiber fed directly into a hot air medium toproduce a cotton like material only to be pressed into fiber-board, So don't over steam.Pieti Lowell/Read this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... __________
Having been in the Fiber Board development industry for many years, supplying dehydratorssystems we would add steam to a screw with wood chips and with a giventime the output is only Lignin fiber fed directly into a hot air medium toproduce a cotton like material only to be pressed into fiber-board, So don't over steam.Pieti Lowell/Read this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... __________
Pietenpol-List: ribs
Original Posted By: AMsafetyC(at)aol.com
Wow.. ok that went fasti glued my first rib together on November 1st... and today i counted 28..i knew i was close.. and only got one end rib made.. need to whip out another today.. and maybe a spare or two for the wallshould be able to lay out the fuselage this weekendjeffRead this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... __________
Wow.. ok that went fasti glued my first rib together on November 1st... and today i counted 28..i knew i was close.. and only got one end rib made.. need to whip out another today.. and maybe a spare or two for the wallshould be able to lay out the fuselage this weekendjeffRead this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... __________
Pietenpol-List: ribs
Original Posted By: "j_dunavin"
I never entered one of these discussions before, because I've not built an entireplane, or for that matter, ever put nails in, or left them out.However, I learned a lot while repairing N2RN after the undercarriage event.I had to "dismantle" several joints in the fuselage, to allow installation of newlongeron sections. That is, I had to remove the interior gussets, and carveout the lower longeron.Dick did not build this area either, by the way. The joints LOOKED PERFECT. Goodwood, obvious use of resorcinol, seemed nicely fit... then I pulled off agusset plate (with it's hundred nails...). The interior of the joint was a mess(wish I took pics). The glue didn't make contact on that interior gusset but over maybe ten percentof the area. The pieces were all different thicknesses although the plate madecontact at the edges so looked alright with the appropriate amount of "squeezeout" there. 90 percent of the strength (derived from that gusset) came fromthe nails that had been left in place. However, the joint showed NO ill effectsfrom the crash. Everything was tight, strong and nothing had shifted.The gusset on the other side (the fuse side) was good. It's clear that side wasglued up first (or seems most likely so).I was very surprised. There's a (not so difficult) method to gluing thing up.It's not a lot unlike laying floor tiles. I think for best results you should"butter" each piece, put the piece in place, remove it to inspect for adequatecontact, then put in place and clamp however. If this had been done, pullingthe nails wouldn't matter.However, if you're not totally sure about actual contact and coverage, I thinkthe nails should definitely be left in place.Just another data point.Read this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ___Subject: Pietenpol-List: ribs
I never entered one of these discussions before, because I've not built an entireplane, or for that matter, ever put nails in, or left them out.However, I learned a lot while repairing N2RN after the undercarriage event.I had to "dismantle" several joints in the fuselage, to allow installation of newlongeron sections. That is, I had to remove the interior gussets, and carveout the lower longeron.Dick did not build this area either, by the way. The joints LOOKED PERFECT. Goodwood, obvious use of resorcinol, seemed nicely fit... then I pulled off agusset plate (with it's hundred nails...). The interior of the joint was a mess(wish I took pics). The glue didn't make contact on that interior gusset but over maybe ten percentof the area. The pieces were all different thicknesses although the plate madecontact at the edges so looked alright with the appropriate amount of "squeezeout" there. 90 percent of the strength (derived from that gusset) came fromthe nails that had been left in place. However, the joint showed NO ill effectsfrom the crash. Everything was tight, strong and nothing had shifted.The gusset on the other side (the fuse side) was good. It's clear that side wasglued up first (or seems most likely so).I was very surprised. There's a (not so difficult) method to gluing thing up.It's not a lot unlike laying floor tiles. I think for best results you should"butter" each piece, put the piece in place, remove it to inspect for adequatecontact, then put in place and clamp however. If this had been done, pullingthe nails wouldn't matter.However, if you're not totally sure about actual contact and coverage, I thinkthe nails should definitely be left in place.Just another data point.Read this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ___Subject: Pietenpol-List: ribs
Original Posted By: Isablcorky(at)aol.com
How long do I soak the 1/4 x 1/2 strip? I tried over night and the grain splitopen this morning when I placed it in the jig.Read this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... __________
How long do I soak the 1/4 x 1/2 strip? I tried over night and the grain splitopen this morning when I placed it in the jig.Read this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... __________
Re: Pietenpol-List: ribs
Original Posted By: Jack
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: ribsIn a message dated 5/6/2013 12:20:41 P.M. Central Daylight Time, j_dunavin(at)hotmail.com writes:--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "j_dunavin" How long do I soak the 1/4 x 1/2 strip? I tried over night and the grain split open this morning when I placed it in the jig.Read this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... 400063What kind of wood and how close are the grains?Corky________________________________________________________________________________Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: ribs
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: ribsIn a message dated 5/6/2013 12:20:41 P.M. Central Daylight Time, j_dunavin(at)hotmail.com writes:--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "j_dunavin" How long do I soak the 1/4 x 1/2 strip? I tried over night and the grain split open this morning when I placed it in the jig.Read this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... 400063What kind of wood and how close are the grains?Corky________________________________________________________________________________Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: ribs
Pietenpol-List: Re: ribs
Original Posted By: "j_dunavin"
Whoa that does not sound right. Is your top airfoil correct? Using spruce? Goodgrain? Never had one of mine split, and just soaked overnight in a PVC pipe.Sent from my iPadJack TextorOn May 6, 2013, at 12:19 PM, "j_dunavin" wrote:> > How long do I soak the 1/4 x 1/2 strip? I tried over night and the grain splitopen this morning when I placed it in the jig.> > > > > Read this topic online here:> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... 063#400063> > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: ribs
Whoa that does not sound right. Is your top airfoil correct? Using spruce? Goodgrain? Never had one of mine split, and just soaked overnight in a PVC pipe.Sent from my iPadJack TextorOn May 6, 2013, at 12:19 PM, "j_dunavin" wrote:> > How long do I soak the 1/4 x 1/2 strip? I tried over night and the grain splitopen this morning when I placed it in the jig.> > > > > Read this topic online here:> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... 063#400063> > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: ribs
Pietenpol-List: Re: ribs
Original Posted By: "echobravo4"
It's spruce from aircraft spruce. I will have to measure the grains. The jig is off of the 1:1 plans you buy. I'll take some pictures when I get home, but one of the guys at work thinks maybeI don't have enough support blocks on the jig. It did split as I placed thepiece just aft of the rib in place. That is what I was going to use to hold itin place while it driedRead this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ___Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: ribs
It's spruce from aircraft spruce. I will have to measure the grains. The jig is off of the 1:1 plans you buy. I'll take some pictures when I get home, but one of the guys at work thinks maybeI don't have enough support blocks on the jig. It did split as I placed thepiece just aft of the rib in place. That is what I was going to use to hold itin place while it driedRead this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ___Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: ribs
Pietenpol-List: Re: ribs
Original Posted By: "Bill Church"
Do the nails ever show a tendency to pull out or lift from the surface? I thinkI remember some comments about not using nails on the wing leading edge becausethey tend to pull out and poke through the fabric. I think someone referredto the leading edge looking like a porcupine.Any proof of this? The effort to pull brads far out weighs the penalty of a fewextra pounds. There are easier ways to save weight.Thanks,Ray KrauseSkyScoutSent from my iPadOn May 6, 2013, at 7:18 AM, "tools" wrote:> > I never entered one of these discussions before, because I've not built an entireplane, or for that matter, ever put nails in, or left them out.> > However, I learned a lot while repairing N2RN after the undercarriage event.> > I had to "dismantle" several joints in the fuselage, to allow installation ofnew longeron sections. That is, I had to remove the interior gussets, and carveout the lower longeron.> > Dick did not build this area either, by the way. The joints LOOKED PERFECT.Good wood, obvious use of resorcinol, seemed nicely fit... then I pulled offa gusset plate (with it's hundred nails...). The interior of the joint was amess (wish I took pics). > > The glue didn't make contact on that interior gusset but over maybe ten percentof the area. The pieces were all different thicknesses although the platemade contact at the edges so looked alright with the appropriate amount of "squeezeout" there. 90 percent of the strength (derived from that gusset) camefrom the nails that had been left in place. However, the joint showed NO illeffects from the crash. Everything was tight, strong and nothing had shifted.> > The gusset on the other side (the fuse side) was good. It's clear that sidewas glued up first (or seems most likely so).> > I was very surprised. There's a (not so difficult) method to gluing thing up.It's not a lot unlike laying floor tiles. I think for best results you should"butter" each piece, put the piece in place, remove it to inspect for adequatecontact, then put in place and clamp however. If this had been done, pullingthe nails wouldn't matter.> > However, if you're not totally sure about actual contact and coverage, I thinkthe nails should definitely be left in place.> > Just another data point.> > > > > Read this topic online here:> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... 047#400047> > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: ribs
Do the nails ever show a tendency to pull out or lift from the surface? I thinkI remember some comments about not using nails on the wing leading edge becausethey tend to pull out and poke through the fabric. I think someone referredto the leading edge looking like a porcupine.Any proof of this? The effort to pull brads far out weighs the penalty of a fewextra pounds. There are easier ways to save weight.Thanks,Ray KrauseSkyScoutSent from my iPadOn May 6, 2013, at 7:18 AM, "tools" wrote:> > I never entered one of these discussions before, because I've not built an entireplane, or for that matter, ever put nails in, or left them out.> > However, I learned a lot while repairing N2RN after the undercarriage event.> > I had to "dismantle" several joints in the fuselage, to allow installation ofnew longeron sections. That is, I had to remove the interior gussets, and carveout the lower longeron.> > Dick did not build this area either, by the way. The joints LOOKED PERFECT.Good wood, obvious use of resorcinol, seemed nicely fit... then I pulled offa gusset plate (with it's hundred nails...). The interior of the joint was amess (wish I took pics). > > The glue didn't make contact on that interior gusset but over maybe ten percentof the area. The pieces were all different thicknesses although the platemade contact at the edges so looked alright with the appropriate amount of "squeezeout" there. 90 percent of the strength (derived from that gusset) camefrom the nails that had been left in place. However, the joint showed NO illeffects from the crash. Everything was tight, strong and nothing had shifted.> > The gusset on the other side (the fuse side) was good. It's clear that sidewas glued up first (or seems most likely so).> > I was very surprised. There's a (not so difficult) method to gluing thing up.It's not a lot unlike laying floor tiles. I think for best results you should"butter" each piece, put the piece in place, remove it to inspect for adequatecontact, then put in place and clamp however. If this had been done, pullingthe nails wouldn't matter.> > However, if you're not totally sure about actual contact and coverage, I thinkthe nails should definitely be left in place.> > Just another data point.> > > > > Read this topic online here:> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... 047#400047> > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: ribs
Pietenpol-List: Re: ribs
Original Posted By: "Pilot78"
Support blocks? Hopefully your photos will help explain what you're talking about.Usually, a capstrip bending jig is a smooth curve that provides continuoussupport through the curved portion of the profile. localized blocks in placeof continuous support can introduce stress risers, since the capstrip willonly be shaped at the points where it makes contact with the blocks. See attachedsketch by the late, great Tony Bingelis. Additionally, steaming the capstripswill provide more flexibility than simply soaking the wood in water. Theheat of the steam breaks down the lignin in the wood (the "glue" that holdsthe fibers together), and allows the wood fibers to move, relative to each other.When the wood cools down, so does the lignin, and it resets. Sort of likemelting wax.Bill C. j_dunavin wrote:> I'll take some pictures when I get home, but one of the guys at work thinks maybeI don't have enough support blocks on the jig. It did split as I placed thepiece just aft of the rib in place. That is what I was going to use to holdit in place while it dried Read this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ttachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/maki ... ___Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: ribs
Support blocks? Hopefully your photos will help explain what you're talking about.Usually, a capstrip bending jig is a smooth curve that provides continuoussupport through the curved portion of the profile. localized blocks in placeof continuous support can introduce stress risers, since the capstrip willonly be shaped at the points where it makes contact with the blocks. See attachedsketch by the late, great Tony Bingelis. Additionally, steaming the capstripswill provide more flexibility than simply soaking the wood in water. Theheat of the steam breaks down the lignin in the wood (the "glue" that holdsthe fibers together), and allows the wood fibers to move, relative to each other.When the wood cools down, so does the lignin, and it resets. Sort of likemelting wax.Bill C. j_dunavin wrote:> I'll take some pictures when I get home, but one of the guys at work thinks maybeI don't have enough support blocks on the jig. It did split as I placed thepiece just aft of the rib in place. That is what I was going to use to holdit in place while it dried Read this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ttachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/maki ... ___Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: ribs
Original Posted By: "Douwe Blumberg"
I built a cap strip steamer and it took only 15-20 minutes to get the cap stripto bend nicely.See at:http://www.mykitlog.com/users/category. ... SLC-UTRead this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... __________
I built a cap strip steamer and it took only 15-20 minutes to get the cap stripto bend nicely.See at:http://www.mykitlog.com/users/category. ... SLC-UTRead this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... __________
Pietenpol-List: Re: pulling nails...
Original Posted By: "tools"
The only part that really needs help is the front foot orso of the top rib. The rest is so gentle a curve it willeasily bend cold. I made a steamer out of an older electrickettle with a round spout. This spout fit almost exactly insome aluminum vacuum tube. Below is a drawing of therib bending jig I built. It's a few layers of particle boardglued together, cut out onthe bandsaw then smoothedon my sander to a curve a bit tighter than the rib nosecurve. Screwed some hardware store 4" angle bracketsto it a bit more than 1/4" above the bending surface.The steamed ribs were bent in under those bracketsfour at a time and left till I needed them the next day.Now when you're doing serious bending of largepieces for furniture and boats an outside strap isoften necessary to deal with the grain splitting away.This is almost always when the bend is on the flat ofthe grain, not in edge grain. Wood bends easier whenthe grain is parallel with the jig though. In our applicationflat or edge grain bending shouldn't be a problem.Clif> Support blocks? Hopefully your photos will help explain what you're > talking about. Usually, a capstrip bending jig is a smooth curve that > provides continuous support through the curved portion of the profile. > localized blocks in place of continuous support can introduce stress > risers, since the capstrip will only be shaped at the points where it > makes contact with the blocks. See attached sketch by the late, great > Tony Bingelis. Additionally, steaming the capstrips will provide more > flexibility than simply soaking the wood in water. The heat of the steam > breaks down the lignin in the wood (the "glue" that holds the fibers > together), and allows the wood fibers to move, relative to each other. > When the wood cools down, so does the lignin, and it resets. Sort of like > melting wax.>> Bill C.________________________________________________________________________________Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: pulling nails...
The only part that really needs help is the front foot orso of the top rib. The rest is so gentle a curve it willeasily bend cold. I made a steamer out of an older electrickettle with a round spout. This spout fit almost exactly insome aluminum vacuum tube. Below is a drawing of therib bending jig I built. It's a few layers of particle boardglued together, cut out onthe bandsaw then smoothedon my sander to a curve a bit tighter than the rib nosecurve. Screwed some hardware store 4" angle bracketsto it a bit more than 1/4" above the bending surface.The steamed ribs were bent in under those bracketsfour at a time and left till I needed them the next day.Now when you're doing serious bending of largepieces for furniture and boats an outside strap isoften necessary to deal with the grain splitting away.This is almost always when the bend is on the flat ofthe grain, not in edge grain. Wood bends easier whenthe grain is parallel with the jig though. In our applicationflat or edge grain bending shouldn't be a problem.Clif> Support blocks? Hopefully your photos will help explain what you're > talking about. Usually, a capstrip bending jig is a smooth curve that > provides continuous support through the curved portion of the profile. > localized blocks in place of continuous support can introduce stress > risers, since the capstrip will only be shaped at the points where it > makes contact with the blocks. See attached sketch by the late, great > Tony Bingelis. Additionally, steaming the capstrips will provide more > flexibility than simply soaking the wood in water. The heat of the steam > breaks down the lignin in the wood (the "glue" that holds the fibers > together), and allows the wood fibers to move, relative to each other. > When the wood cools down, so does the lignin, and it resets. Sort of like > melting wax.>> Bill C.________________________________________________________________________________Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: pulling nails...
Pietenpol-List: Re: pulling nails...
Original Posted By: "Bill Church"
They can, as the wood expands and contracts it tends to back nails out. One thing that helps is to drive nails slowly. That tends to bend wood fibersover so they tend to hold the nail. Driven quickly (especially like a pneumaticdriven nail), the fibers break, so the nail has less pull out resistance.Driving a nail into the face of "vertical grain", or quarter sawn will help, aswood is more dimensionally stable that way than plain sawn. The more well sealed the wood, the less it will expand and contract, so that helps.Read this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ___Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: pulling nails...
They can, as the wood expands and contracts it tends to back nails out. One thing that helps is to drive nails slowly. That tends to bend wood fibersover so they tend to hold the nail. Driven quickly (especially like a pneumaticdriven nail), the fibers break, so the nail has less pull out resistance.Driving a nail into the face of "vertical grain", or quarter sawn will help, aswood is more dimensionally stable that way than plain sawn. The more well sealed the wood, the less it will expand and contract, so that helps.Read this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ___Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: pulling nails...
> ribs
Original Posted By: rdecosta(at)autoeurope.com (Richard DeCosta)
> > This rib thing is baffling me. I dont want to appear stupid, but I > cant figure out how the trailing edge is supposed to be. Does anyone > have a good, closeup picture of the trailing edge? I am on rib #2, > and making templates for all the other ribs, and I'm kindof stuck > until I get this worked out. Having never actually seen a piece of > trailing edge stock, it is particularly hard to visualise the end of > the rib.> > Thanks all.> > Richard> -------------------------------------------------> Homepage: http://207.140.1.221/w3builder_________ ... __________
> > This rib thing is baffling me. I dont want to appear stupid, but I > cant figure out how the trailing edge is supposed to be. Does anyone > have a good, closeup picture of the trailing edge? I am on rib #2, > and making templates for all the other ribs, and I'm kindof stuck > until I get this worked out. Having never actually seen a piece of > trailing edge stock, it is particularly hard to visualise the end of > the rib.> > Thanks all.> > Richard> -------------------------------------------------> Homepage: http://207.140.1.221/w3builder_________ ... __________
> > ribs
Original Posted By: "Alan A. Laudani"
> > > > This rib thing is baffling me. I dont want to appear stupid, but I > > cant figure out how the trailing edge is supposed to be. Does anyone > > have a good, closeup picture of the trailing edge? I am on rib #2, > > and making templates for all the other ribs, and I'm kindof stuck > > until I get this worked out. Having never actually seen a piece of > > trailing edge stock, it is particularly hard to visualise the end of > > the rib.> > > > Thanks all.> > > > Richard> > -------------------------------------------------> > Homepage: http://207.140.1.221/w3builder--------- ... --Homepage: http://207.140.1.221/w3builder_________ ... __________
> > > > This rib thing is baffling me. I dont want to appear stupid, but I > > cant figure out how the trailing edge is supposed to be. Does anyone > > have a good, closeup picture of the trailing edge? I am on rib #2, > > and making templates for all the other ribs, and I'm kindof stuck > > until I get this worked out. Having never actually seen a piece of > > trailing edge stock, it is particularly hard to visualise the end of > > the rib.> > > > Thanks all.> > > > Richard> > -------------------------------------------------> > Homepage: http://207.140.1.221/w3builder--------- ... --Homepage: http://207.140.1.221/w3builder_________ ... __________
>> > ribs
Original Posted By: UUNet
>> > >> > This rib thing is baffling me. I dont want to appear stupid, but I >> > cant figure out how the trailing edge is supposed to be. Does anyone >> > have a good, closeup picture of the trailing edge? I am on rib #2, >> > and making templates for all the other ribs, and I'm kindof stuck >> > until I get this worked out. Having never actually seen a piece of >> > trailing edge stock, it is particularly hard to visualise the end of >> > the rib.>> > >> > Thanks all.>> > >> > Richard>> > ------------------------------------------------->> > Homepage: http://207.140.1.221/w3builder>-------- ... ->Homepage: http://207.140.1.221/w3builder>>jimsury ... __________
>> > >> > This rib thing is baffling me. I dont want to appear stupid, but I >> > cant figure out how the trailing edge is supposed to be. Does anyone >> > have a good, closeup picture of the trailing edge? I am on rib #2, >> > and making templates for all the other ribs, and I'm kindof stuck >> > until I get this worked out. Having never actually seen a piece of >> > trailing edge stock, it is particularly hard to visualise the end of >> > the rib.>> > >> > Thanks all.>> > >> > Richard>> > ------------------------------------------------->> > Homepage: http://207.140.1.221/w3builder>-------- ... ->Homepage: http://207.140.1.221/w3builder>>jimsury ... __________
> >> > ribs
Original Posted By: PTNPOL(at)aol.com
> >> > > >> > This rib thing is baffling me. I dont want to appear stupid, but I > >> > cant figure out how the trailing edge is supposed to be. Does anyone > >> > have a good, closeup picture of the trailing edge? I am on rib #2, > >> > and making templates for all the other ribs, and I'm kindof stuck > >> > until I get this worked out. Having never actually seen a piece of > >> > trailing edge stock, it is particularly hard to visualise the end of > >> > the rib.> >> > > >> > Thanks all.> >> > > >> > Richard> >> > -------------------------------------------------> >> > Homepage: http://207.140.1.221/w3builder> >-------------------------------------------------> >Homepage: http://207.140.1.221/w3builder> >> >> jimsury(at)fbtc.net> -------------------------------------------------Homepage: http://207.140.1.221/w3builder_________ ... __________
> >> > > >> > This rib thing is baffling me. I dont want to appear stupid, but I > >> > cant figure out how the trailing edge is supposed to be. Does anyone > >> > have a good, closeup picture of the trailing edge? I am on rib #2, > >> > and making templates for all the other ribs, and I'm kindof stuck > >> > until I get this worked out. Having never actually seen a piece of > >> > trailing edge stock, it is particularly hard to visualise the end of > >> > the rib.> >> > > >> > Thanks all.> >> > > >> > Richard> >> > -------------------------------------------------> >> > Homepage: http://207.140.1.221/w3builder> >-------------------------------------------------> >Homepage: http://207.140.1.221/w3builder> >> >> jimsury(at)fbtc.net> -------------------------------------------------Homepage: http://207.140.1.221/w3builder_________ ... __________