Original Posted By: Michael D Cuy
Thanks for the responseA little more info.Michael, after closer inspection the my spars are similar to yours. Itis 1/2' spruce web but instead of "u" channel top and bottom as yours itis 1" deep strip front and back of the web both top and bottom to makeup the 3/4" dimension. If I didn't mention it the outer wing panels werealready assembled when I got them.David, I understand your point about introducing a bending point 7"outboard. As built the wing hinge point is at the top of the spar. Wouldadding another attach point at the bottom of the spar be beneficial?RegardsKen Anderson________________________________________________________________________________
Pietenpol-List: 3 piece wing
Pietenpol-List: 3 piece wing
Original Posted By: oil can
Subject: Pietenpol-List: 3 piece wing>Didn't somebody say they made the center section longer and the outer>sections shorter. Could I get some details? Was any engineering>analysis done?>>I am getting ready to start building the wings and I have a small>(large;-)) problem. I am working in the basement and I can't get a>standard wing panel around the corner and up the stairs.>>I have considered building a one piece wing in the basement and them>knocking out a section of wall to remove it. My wife disagrees
>>Dean Dayton - deandayton(at)hotmail.com>Dublin, OH>>________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Pietenpol-List: 3 piece wing>Didn't somebody say they made the center section longer and the outer>sections shorter. Could I get some details? Was any engineering>analysis done?>>I am getting ready to start building the wings and I have a small>(large;-)) problem. I am working in the basement and I can't get a>standard wing panel around the corner and up the stairs.>>I have considered building a one piece wing in the basement and them>knocking out a section of wall to remove it. My wife disagrees
>>Dean Dayton - deandayton(at)hotmail.com>Dublin, OH>>________________________________________________________________________________Pietenpol-List: 3 piece wing
Original Posted By: Ken Beanlands
Subject: Pietenpol-List: 3 piece wing>Didn't somebody say they made the center section longer and the outer>sections shorter. Could I get some details? Was any engineering>analysis done?>>I am getting ready to start building the wings and I have a small>(large;-)) problem. I am working in the basement and I can't get a>standard wing panel around the corner and up the stairs.>>I have considered building a one piece wing in the basement and them>knocking out a section of wall to remove it. My wife disagrees>>Dean Dayton - deandayton(at)hotmail.com>Dublin, OH>>________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Pietenpol-List: 3 piece wing>Didn't somebody say they made the center section longer and the outer>sections shorter. Could I get some details? Was any engineering>analysis done?>>I am getting ready to start building the wings and I have a small>(large;-)) problem. I am working in the basement and I can't get a>standard wing panel around the corner and up the stairs.>>I have considered building a one piece wing in the basement and them>knocking out a section of wall to remove it. My wife disagrees
>>Dean Dayton - deandayton(at)hotmail.com>Dublin, OH>>________________________________________________________________________________Pietenpol-List: 3 piece wing
Original Posted By: mboynton(at)excite.com
Didn't somebody say they made the center section longer and the outer sections shorter. Could I get some details? Was any engineering analysis done?I am getting ready to start building the wings and I have a small (large;-)) problem. I am working in the basement and I can't get a standard wing panel around the corner and up the stairs.I have considered building a one piece wing in the basement and them knocking out a section of wall to remove it. My wife disagrees ;-)Dean Dayton - deandayton(at)hotmail.comDublin, OH________________________________________________________________________________
Didn't somebody say they made the center section longer and the outer sections shorter. Could I get some details? Was any engineering analysis done?I am getting ready to start building the wings and I have a small (large;-)) problem. I am working in the basement and I can't get a standard wing panel around the corner and up the stairs.I have considered building a one piece wing in the basement and them knocking out a section of wall to remove it. My wife disagrees ;-)Dean Dayton - deandayton(at)hotmail.comDublin, OH________________________________________________________________________________
Pietenpol-List: Re: 3 piece wing
Original Posted By: Dean Dayton
Dean,I built the three piece wing,and made my wings one bay longer. Then Put ahole in the wall which actually enhanced the utility of the room and valueto the house. It now has a 6 foot sliding door. I did not use cement in thenew stair well. i was advised against it since it would altimately crack. Iused 6X6" pressure treated lumber. They were interlaced between the wall andthe stairs. They hold each other that way. The wall has not moved in 12years and is better to look at than cement. Contractor estimates were$7,000.00, but decided to perform the work myself. It only cost me $1,800.00and that's canadian. Be very carefull about changing things from thedrawings. I hear someone has done just what you've asked, but you don't knowthe problems he may have encountered along the way. I'm sure if anengineering analysis were done, the triangulation would be lost. There is abalance between the inner bays and the outer bays around flying strut pickuppoint. I don't think you want to change that. I did by adding one bay andwas there efver a domino effect of changes that had to be incorporated.Today I wouldn't do it.Best of luck,Domenic Bellissimo/ TorontoBest of luck-----Original Message-----
Dean,I built the three piece wing,and made my wings one bay longer. Then Put ahole in the wall which actually enhanced the utility of the room and valueto the house. It now has a 6 foot sliding door. I did not use cement in thenew stair well. i was advised against it since it would altimately crack. Iused 6X6" pressure treated lumber. They were interlaced between the wall andthe stairs. They hold each other that way. The wall has not moved in 12years and is better to look at than cement. Contractor estimates were$7,000.00, but decided to perform the work myself. It only cost me $1,800.00and that's canadian. Be very carefull about changing things from thedrawings. I hear someone has done just what you've asked, but you don't knowthe problems he may have encountered along the way. I'm sure if anengineering analysis were done, the triangulation would be lost. There is abalance between the inner bays and the outer bays around flying strut pickuppoint. I don't think you want to change that. I did by adding one bay andwas there efver a domino effect of changes that had to be incorporated.Today I wouldn't do it.Best of luck,Domenic Bellissimo/ TorontoBest of luck-----Original Message-----
Pietenpol-List: Re: 3 piece wing
Original Posted By: Dean Dayton
Hey Dean, are your stairs finished in. I removed mine and stood a wing panelon end and it tilted through the openning . It made that first step adillily! It didn't take long and the stairs put back don't even squeakanymore!-----Original Message-----
Hey Dean, are your stairs finished in. I removed mine and stood a wing panelon end and it tilted through the openning . It made that first step adillily! It didn't take long and the stairs put back don't even squeakanymore!-----Original Message-----
Pietenpol-List: Re: 3 piece wing
Original Posted By: Larry Neal
>Hey Dean, are your stairs finished in. I removed mine and stood a wing panel>on end and it tilted through the openning . It made that first step a>dillily! It didn't take long and the stairs put back don't even squeak>anymore!Fortunately, no. After working out the geometry, I'm pretty sure I can get the wing panels out this way. I'm still not sure about a long fuselage.________________________________________________________________________________
>Hey Dean, are your stairs finished in. I removed mine and stood a wing panel>on end and it tilted through the openning . It made that first step a>dillily! It didn't take long and the stairs put back don't even squeak>anymore!Fortunately, no. After working out the geometry, I'm pretty sure I can get the wing panels out this way. I'm still not sure about a long fuselage.________________________________________________________________________________
Pietenpol-List: 3 piece wing
Original Posted By: Greg Yotz
Several weeks back there was a phone no. of someone who had plans for a 3 piece wing, no gap aelerons, and something else. Anyone know who it was and the particulars? Anyone used his plans?P.S. Any Piet owner/builders in No. Fla./So. Ga.?________________________________________________________________________________
Several weeks back there was a phone no. of someone who had plans for a 3 piece wing, no gap aelerons, and something else. Anyone know who it was and the particulars? Anyone used his plans?P.S. Any Piet owner/builders in No. Fla./So. Ga.?________________________________________________________________________________
Pietenpol-List: Re: 3 piece wing
Original Posted By: Rcaprd(at)aol.com
Larry Ragan wrote:> > Several weeks back there was a phone no. of someone who had plans for a> 3 piece wing, no gap aelerons, and something else. Anyone know who it> was and the particulars? Anyone used his plans?Gary Price at Yesterdays Wings Aero Museum in New Hampshire Nice stuff.3-piece wing, front cockpit door, No gap Aleron plans. I can't find thephone # right now will try to post it tommorow. Or I bet Richard DeCostahas it...Richard?John Duprey> > P.S. Any Piet owner/builders in No. Fla./So. Ga.?> ________________________________________________________________________________
Larry Ragan wrote:> > Several weeks back there was a phone no. of someone who had plans for a> 3 piece wing, no gap aelerons, and something else. Anyone know who it> was and the particulars? Anyone used his plans?Gary Price at Yesterdays Wings Aero Museum in New Hampshire Nice stuff.3-piece wing, front cockpit door, No gap Aleron plans. I can't find thephone # right now will try to post it tommorow. Or I bet Richard DeCostahas it...Richard?John Duprey> > P.S. Any Piet owner/builders in No. Fla./So. Ga.?> ________________________________________________________________________________
Pietenpol-List: Re: 3 piece wing
Original Posted By: Larry Ragan
Yesterday's Wings25 Taft RoadPortsmouth, NH 03801-5732603-436-7360 ---John Duprey wrote:>> Larry Ragan wrote:> > > > Several weeks back there was a phone no. of someone who had plansfor a> > 3 piece wing, no gap aelerons, and something else. Anyone knowwho it> > was and the particulars? Anyone used his plans?> > Gary Price at Yesterdays Wings Aero Museum in New Hampshire Nicestuff.> 3-piece wing, front cockpit door, No gap Aleron plans. I can't findthe> phone # right now will try to post it tommorow. Or I bet RichardDeCosta> has it...Richard?> > John Duprey> > > > P.S. Any Piet owner/builders in No. Fla./So. Ga.?> > > ==http://www.wrld.com/w3builder__________ ... __________
Yesterday's Wings25 Taft RoadPortsmouth, NH 03801-5732603-436-7360 ---John Duprey wrote:>> Larry Ragan wrote:> > > > Several weeks back there was a phone no. of someone who had plansfor a> > 3 piece wing, no gap aelerons, and something else. Anyone knowwho it> > was and the particulars? Anyone used his plans?> > Gary Price at Yesterdays Wings Aero Museum in New Hampshire Nicestuff.> 3-piece wing, front cockpit door, No gap Aleron plans. I can't findthe> phone # right now will try to post it tommorow. Or I bet RichardDeCosta> has it...Richard?> > John Duprey> > > > P.S. Any Piet owner/builders in No. Fla./So. Ga.?> > > ==http://www.wrld.com/w3builder__________ ... __________
Pietenpol-List: Re: 3 piece wing
Original Posted By: fishin
To all:Does anyone have an idea of what the cost is for this plans set?Mark BoyntonPhoenix, AZ> > Yesterday's Wings> 25 Taft Road> Portsmouth, NH 03801-5732> 603-436-7360 > > > > ---John Duprey wrote:> >> > Larry Ragan wrote:> > > > > > Several weeks back there was a phone no. of someone who had plans> for a> > > 3 piece wing, no gap aelerons, and something else. Anyone know> who it> > > was and the particulars? Anyone used his plans?> > > > Gary Price at Yesterdays Wings Aero Museum in New Hampshire Nice> stuff.> > 3-piece wing, front cockpit door, No gap Aleron plans. I can't find> the> > phone # right now will try to post it tommorow. Or I bet Richard> DeCosta> > has it...Richard?> > > > John Duprey> > > > > > P.S. Any Piet owner/builders in No. Fla./So. Ga.?> > > > > > > ==> http://www.wrld.com/w3builder> > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
To all:Does anyone have an idea of what the cost is for this plans set?Mark BoyntonPhoenix, AZ> > Yesterday's Wings> 25 Taft Road> Portsmouth, NH 03801-5732> 603-436-7360 > > > > ---John Duprey wrote:> >> > Larry Ragan wrote:> > > > > > Several weeks back there was a phone no. of someone who had plans> for a> > > 3 piece wing, no gap aelerons, and something else. Anyone know> who it> > > was and the particulars? Anyone used his plans?> > > > Gary Price at Yesterdays Wings Aero Museum in New Hampshire Nice> stuff.> > 3-piece wing, front cockpit door, No gap Aleron plans. I can't find> the> > phone # right now will try to post it tommorow. Or I bet Richard> DeCosta> > has it...Richard?> > > > John Duprey> > > > > > P.S. Any Piet owner/builders in No. Fla./So. Ga.?> > > > > > > ==> http://www.wrld.com/w3builder> > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Pietenpol-List: Re: 3 piece wing
Original Posted By: mboynton(at)excite.com
>To all:>>Does anyone have an idea of what the cost is for this plans set?>>Mark Boynton>Phoenix, AZ>>according to Read Hamiltons directory the following costs are listed;all from Gary PriceregardsJoeC________________________________________________________________________________
>To all:>>Does anyone have an idea of what the cost is for this plans set?>>Mark Boynton>Phoenix, AZ>>according to Read Hamiltons directory the following costs are listed;all from Gary PriceregardsJoeC________________________________________________________________________________
Pietenpol-List: Re: 3 piece wing
Original Posted By: ADonJr(at)aol.com
Mark,I just sent a check for $85 to Harry Price for wing and fuselage door plans.Don Cooley________________________________________________________________________________
Mark,I just sent a check for $85 to Harry Price for wing and fuselage door plans.Don Cooley________________________________________________________________________________
Pietenpol-List: Re: 3 piece wing
Original Posted By: Borodent(at)aol.com
Mark,I just sent a check for $85 to Harry Price for wing and fuselage door plans.Don Cooley________________________________________________________________________________
Mark,I just sent a check for $85 to Harry Price for wing and fuselage door plans.Don Cooley________________________________________________________________________________
Pietenpol-List: Re: 3 piece wing
Original Posted By: ADonJr(at)aol.com
Mark,Correction: Gary Price...Yesterday's Wings.Don Cooley________________________________________________________________________________
Mark,Correction: Gary Price...Yesterday's Wings.Don Cooley________________________________________________________________________________
Pietenpol-List: Re:
Original Posted By: Kyle Ray
If you want my adress re pietenpol it is borodent @ AOL.comthanks Henry Williams________________________________________________________________________________
If you want my adress re pietenpol it is borodent @ AOL.comthanks Henry Williams________________________________________________________________________________
Pietenpol-List: Re: 3 piece wing
Original Posted By: steve(at)byu.edu
Thanks Don.Mark BoyntonPhoenix, AZ> Mark,> I just sent a check for $85 to Harry Price for wing and fuselage doorplans.> Don Cooley________________________________________________________________________________
Thanks Don.Mark BoyntonPhoenix, AZ> Mark,> I just sent a check for $85 to Harry Price for wing and fuselage doorplans.> Don Cooley________________________________________________________________________________
Pietenpol-List: 3 piece wing
Original Posted By: "Jack Phillips"
I was just looking over 3 pc plan and wondering, how do you lead the aileron cablethrough the turning pulley and attach the wing? To clarify, the swedge turnbuckleend are too large to fit thru the pulley. Do you have to unbolt thepulley or is it typical to add a linkage at the wing side? I don't see anythingon the plan about this.Dick________________________________________________________________________________
I was just looking over 3 pc plan and wondering, how do you lead the aileron cablethrough the turning pulley and attach the wing? To clarify, the swedge turnbuckleend are too large to fit thru the pulley. Do you have to unbolt thepulley or is it typical to add a linkage at the wing side? I don't see anythingon the plan about this.Dick________________________________________________________________________________
RE: Pietenpol-List: 3 piece wing
Original Posted By: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
Dick,I made my aileron cable system with a total of 7 separate cables. Two ineach wing, plus two short cables going from the control stick torque tubethrough the centersection, plus a separate cable through the centersectionfor the return cable. Yours may vary. Mine was made more complicated bythe avionics in the centersection, which restricts access somewhat.If you are planning on unbolting the centersection pulleys to pass a cablethrough, you need to have the pulley bolts fastened with nutplates so youcan get the bolts in and out (at least on mine, with a fuel tank justforward of the centersection spar).Put a couple more hours on mine this weekend - up to about 5 hours on itnow. Wonderful fun, flying an open cockpit airplane on a crisp fall day.As Walt Evans says, "Ain't life GRAND!"Jack PhillipsRaleigh, NC-----Original Message-----
Dick,I made my aileron cable system with a total of 7 separate cables. Two ineach wing, plus two short cables going from the control stick torque tubethrough the centersection, plus a separate cable through the centersectionfor the return cable. Yours may vary. Mine was made more complicated bythe avionics in the centersection, which restricts access somewhat.If you are planning on unbolting the centersection pulleys to pass a cablethrough, you need to have the pulley bolts fastened with nutplates so youcan get the bolts in and out (at least on mine, with a fuel tank justforward of the centersection spar).Put a couple more hours on mine this weekend - up to about 5 hours on itnow. Wonderful fun, flying an open cockpit airplane on a crisp fall day.As Walt Evans says, "Ain't life GRAND!"Jack PhillipsRaleigh, NC-----Original Message-----
Re: Pietenpol-List: 3 piece wing
Original Posted By: Richard Navratil
Unbolting the pulleys is how we handled this issue. Access panels were built intothe underside of the center section, aft of the rear spar to reach this area.Another good reason to build a one-piece wing.......Greg Cardinal ----- Original Message -----
Unbolting the pulleys is how we handled this issue. Access panels were built intothe underside of the center section, aft of the rear spar to reach this area.Another good reason to build a one-piece wing.......Greg Cardinal ----- Original Message -----
Re: Pietenpol-List: 3 piece wing
Original Posted By: gcardinal(at)mn.rr.com
GregI have a one piece wing on mine, it's a lot to handle in mounting. Thats why I'mdoing a 3 piece this time.Something like what Jack suggests with seperate sections is the way I'll go. Dick ----- Original Message -----
GregI have a one piece wing on mine, it's a lot to handle in mounting. Thats why I'mdoing a 3 piece this time.Something like what Jack suggests with seperate sections is the way I'll go. Dick ----- Original Message -----
Re: Pietenpol-List: 3 piece wing
Original Posted By: Richard Navratil
Dick,I used Mike Cuy's advice, and don't regret it. Just marked each cable end andleft it rolled up in the root of the wing. After installing wings for the finalassy, simply measure the cables and install eyes and bolt up. This includedthe turnbuckle in the overhead, and both cables comming down to the torquetube. This allowed for smaller holes in the cowl, and if I ever had to dissassemble,just cut the cables near the eyes and add more eyes later to reattach.Yes, Life IS grand!!walt evansNX140DL ----- Original Message -----
Dick,I used Mike Cuy's advice, and don't regret it. Just marked each cable end andleft it rolled up in the root of the wing. After installing wings for the finalassy, simply measure the cables and install eyes and bolt up. This includedthe turnbuckle in the overhead, and both cables comming down to the torquetube. This allowed for smaller holes in the cowl, and if I ever had to dissassemble,just cut the cables near the eyes and add more eyes later to reattach.Yes, Life IS grand!!walt evansNX140DL ----- Original Message -----
Pietenpol-List: 3 piece wing
Original Posted By: Michael D Cuy
Pietenpol-List: 3 piece wing
Original Posted By:> "Richard Navratil"
Dick,Mine has simple linkage for disconnecting.Ted
Dick,Mine has simple linkage for disconnecting.Ted
Pietenpol-List: 3 piece wing
Original Posted By: "Dick Navratil"
I have stated building the center wing section from the Vi Kapler plans. I havea couple of questions that I am unclear on. First,.... Should the lower bolt on the aileron pulley support be an AN Bolt ora common wood screw? If I use a bolt, how do you get clearance with the 3/8"x 1-3/4" compression strut. Secondly,...I am using 3/4" spars on the center section and the main wing panelsand my ribs are built for 3/4" spars. It appears that the center section sparsdo not have any plywood under the spar butt joint straps. The spar butt jointstraps lie directly on the spruce spars. The 3/32" plywood is just a trianglebelow, but not under, the butt joint strap. The plywood basically forms a levelsurface for the aileron pulley support, the cabane fittings and the compressionstruts to bear against. Am I reading the plans correctly? What has everyoneelse done? If the plans do call for the butt straps to be mounted on theraw spruce, would there be a problem with wood compression with time?Thanks,Rick Richard Schreiberlmforge(at)earthlink.net________________________________________________________________________________
I have stated building the center wing section from the Vi Kapler plans. I havea couple of questions that I am unclear on. First,.... Should the lower bolt on the aileron pulley support be an AN Bolt ora common wood screw? If I use a bolt, how do you get clearance with the 3/8"x 1-3/4" compression strut. Secondly,...I am using 3/4" spars on the center section and the main wing panelsand my ribs are built for 3/4" spars. It appears that the center section sparsdo not have any plywood under the spar butt joint straps. The spar butt jointstraps lie directly on the spruce spars. The 3/32" plywood is just a trianglebelow, but not under, the butt joint strap. The plywood basically forms a levelsurface for the aileron pulley support, the cabane fittings and the compressionstruts to bear against. Am I reading the plans correctly? What has everyoneelse done? If the plans do call for the butt straps to be mounted on theraw spruce, would there be a problem with wood compression with time?Thanks,Rick Richard Schreiberlmforge(at)earthlink.net________________________________________________________________________________
Pietenpol-List: Steaming cap- strips
Original Posted By: "walt evans"
Re: Pietenpol-List: Steaming cap- strips
Original Posted By: brian jardine
Most havent bothered with a steamer, I never did. I borrowed one of my wifes tallvases and filled with water and let the ribs set overnight. It's only the12" on the top cap that have stress. After making many ribs, I even quit soakingthem. I have only broken 2 cap strips.Just be sure to ask the wife first, before borrowing the vase. Thats where theribs really get broken.Dick N. ----- Original Message -----
Most havent bothered with a steamer, I never did. I borrowed one of my wifes tallvases and filled with water and let the ribs set overnight. It's only the12" on the top cap that have stress. After making many ribs, I even quit soakingthem. I have only broken 2 cap strips.Just be sure to ask the wife first, before borrowing the vase. Thats where theribs really get broken.Dick N. ----- Original Message -----
Re: Pietenpol-List: Steaming cap- strips
Original Posted By: brian jardine
Hi Brian,No pictures but I simply used a 24" length of 3" copper pipe with a cap solderedon one end. Used it to boil two cap strips at a time just before they went intothe jig. You only need to boil the front 12 - 18 inches. Boil for 15 - 20minutes and bend slowly.Greg Cardinal ----- Original Message -----
Hi Brian,No pictures but I simply used a 24" length of 3" copper pipe with a cap solderedon one end. Used it to boil two cap strips at a time just before they went intothe jig. You only need to boil the front 12 - 18 inches. Boil for 15 - 20minutes and bend slowly.Greg Cardinal ----- Original Message -----
RE: Pietenpol-List: Steaming cap- strips
Original Posted By: brian jardine
Brian:I just used a 3 foot section of PVC pipe that was 1.5 to 2" in diameter. Cap oneend with an end cap fitting. To soften the capstrips, stand the tube upright,boil enough water to fill the tube 3/4 full. Pour the hot water into the tubeand then slide in the capstrip. Let the capstrip soak for about 1/2 hour, removeand then slide your capstrip into a bending form. Let the capstrip dry for24 hours and then remove. This system worked well. All my capstrips formedeasily.Rick Schreiber----- Original Message -----
Brian:I just used a 3 foot section of PVC pipe that was 1.5 to 2" in diameter. Cap oneend with an end cap fitting. To soften the capstrips, stand the tube upright,boil enough water to fill the tube 3/4 full. Pour the hot water into the tubeand then slide in the capstrip. Let the capstrip soak for about 1/2 hour, removeand then slide your capstrip into a bending form. Let the capstrip dry for24 hours and then remove. This system worked well. All my capstrips formedeasily.Rick Schreiber----- Original Message -----
Re: Pietenpol-List: Steaming cap- strips
Original Posted By: "Rick Holland"
If you have one, a Wagner wallpaper steamer hooked up to a piece of 3" PVC schedule4 pipe works great. Perfect temperature and all you need is about 5 minutesof heat to make your cap-strip pliable enough to fit in your jig. Very neatand no mess.This idea comes from the esoteric world of skin on frame kayak building. Here mybuddy Brian Nystrom uses one hooked up to a box made of foil face insulationboard to steam ribs for a Greenland skin on frame kayak. http://community.webshots.com/photo/879 ... VTnmichael silviusscarborough, maine________________________________________________________________________________Date: Sun, 12 Mar 2006 19:30:28 -0700
If you have one, a Wagner wallpaper steamer hooked up to a piece of 3" PVC schedule4 pipe works great. Perfect temperature and all you need is about 5 minutesof heat to make your cap-strip pliable enough to fit in your jig. Very neatand no mess.This idea comes from the esoteric world of skin on frame kayak building. Here mybuddy Brian Nystrom uses one hooked up to a box made of foil face insulationboard to steam ribs for a Greenland skin on frame kayak. http://community.webshots.com/photo/879 ... VTnmichael silviusscarborough, maine________________________________________________________________________________Date: Sun, 12 Mar 2006 19:30:28 -0700
Re: Pietenpol-List: 3 piece wing
Original Posted By: "Peter W Johnson"
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: 3 piece wingIn a message dated 3/12/2006 4:40:24 PM Central Standard Time, lmforge(at)earthlink.net writes:I have stated building the center wing section from the Vi Kapler plans. I have a couple of questions that I am unclear on. First,.... Should the lower bolt on the aileron pulley support be an AN Bolt or a common wood screw? If I use a bolt, how do you get clearance with the 3/8" x 1-3/4" compression strut. Secondly,...I am using 3/4" spars on the center section and the main wing panels and my ribs are built for 3/4" spars. It appears that the center sectionspars do not have any plywood under the spar butt joint straps. The spar butt joint straps lie directly on the spruce spars. The 3/32" plywood is just a triangle below, but not under, the butt joint strap. The plywood basically formsa level surface for the aileron pulley support, the cabane fittings and the compression struts to bear against. Am I reading the plans correctly? What haseveryone else done? If the plans do call for the butt straps to be mounted on the raw spruce, would there be a problem with wood compression with time?Thanks,Rick Rick, I notice nobody has responded yet, so I'll chime in on this one, even though I built the one piece wing. Lynn K. and I talked about that lower bolton the aileron pulley bracket a couple of months ago, and we concluded it wouldbe alright to make a radius notch at the lower aft corner of the compression strut, just enought to clear the tip of the bolt, with the nut on it. DO NOT use a wood screw. You are correct in that the Center Section Spars do Not have plywood under the spar butt joint straps, and the plywood basically forms a level surfacefor the aileron pulley support, the cabane fittings and the compression strutsto bear against.. However, there IS plywood under both sides of the Wing spar butt joint straps. This would be so the Wing Straps go on the outside ofthe center section straps. If you look at the drawing, the grain of that plywood runs differently than the grain of the spar. Just be sure you have allthe wood cut and pre-fit, before you start making these fittings...or you will likely be doing the fittings over again. Lynn K. might chime in on this one...or anyone else ??Chuck G.NX770CG________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: 3 piece wingIn a message dated 3/12/2006 4:40:24 PM Central Standard Time, lmforge(at)earthlink.net writes:I have stated building the center wing section from the Vi Kapler plans. I have a couple of questions that I am unclear on. First,.... Should the lower bolt on the aileron pulley support be an AN Bolt or a common wood screw? If I use a bolt, how do you get clearance with the 3/8" x 1-3/4" compression strut. Secondly,...I am using 3/4" spars on the center section and the main wing panels and my ribs are built for 3/4" spars. It appears that the center sectionspars do not have any plywood under the spar butt joint straps. The spar butt joint straps lie directly on the spruce spars. The 3/32" plywood is just a triangle below, but not under, the butt joint strap. The plywood basically formsa level surface for the aileron pulley support, the cabane fittings and the compression struts to bear against. Am I reading the plans correctly? What haseveryone else done? If the plans do call for the butt straps to be mounted on the raw spruce, would there be a problem with wood compression with time?Thanks,Rick Rick, I notice nobody has responded yet, so I'll chime in on this one, even though I built the one piece wing. Lynn K. and I talked about that lower bolton the aileron pulley bracket a couple of months ago, and we concluded it wouldbe alright to make a radius notch at the lower aft corner of the compression strut, just enought to clear the tip of the bolt, with the nut on it. DO NOT use a wood screw. You are correct in that the Center Section Spars do Not have plywood under the spar butt joint straps, and the plywood basically forms a level surfacefor the aileron pulley support, the cabane fittings and the compression strutsto bear against.. However, there IS plywood under both sides of the Wing spar butt joint straps. This would be so the Wing Straps go on the outside ofthe center section straps. If you look at the drawing, the grain of that plywood runs differently than the grain of the spar. Just be sure you have allthe wood cut and pre-fit, before you start making these fittings...or you will likely be doing the fittings over again. Lynn K. might chime in on this one...or anyone else ??Chuck G.NX770CG________________________________________________________________________________
RE: Pietenpol-List: 3 piece wing
Original Posted By: "Bill Church"
Has anyone else had trouble with the lower aileron cable getting awfully closeto a bolt head in the spar fitting for the little brace strut? I'm hoping thatwith tension it'll stand off, but if not what should I do?about the only two options I see are"1. fabricate a plastic rub pad2. change the spar fairleads a bit to increase the standoff as it passes thatbolt.any other thoughts?thanksDouwe________________________________________________________________________________Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: 3 piece wingDate: Wed, 15 Mar 2006 12:47:28 -0500
Has anyone else had trouble with the lower aileron cable getting awfully closeto a bolt head in the spar fitting for the little brace strut? I'm hoping thatwith tension it'll stand off, but if not what should I do?about the only two options I see are"1. fabricate a plastic rub pad2. change the spar fairleads a bit to increase the standoff as it passes thatbolt.any other thoughts?thanksDouwe________________________________________________________________________________Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: 3 piece wingDate: Wed, 15 Mar 2006 12:47:28 -0500
Re: Pietenpol-List: 3 piece wing
Original Posted By:
Chuck,I'll plan on doing the same thing with the compression strut, notch the cornerand/or move it slightly to get clearance. I never really considered using anywood screws, I just wanted to find out what every one else was doing.As far as the plywood plates on the center section spars. My original thoughtswere if I used 1/16" under the center section spar butt joint straps, the widthof the 3/4 " spar plus plywood, plus the two 0.08" straps would only be 1.035".With the proper ply thickness under the wing spar butt straps everything wouldstill fit. However, you are probably right, with all of the metal bearingsurfaces, plus the plywood under the cabane straps and aileron pulley, the plywoodis probably overkill.Thanks,Rick Schreiber----- Original Message -----
Chuck,I'll plan on doing the same thing with the compression strut, notch the cornerand/or move it slightly to get clearance. I never really considered using anywood screws, I just wanted to find out what every one else was doing.As far as the plywood plates on the center section spars. My original thoughtswere if I used 1/16" under the center section spar butt joint straps, the widthof the 3/4 " spar plus plywood, plus the two 0.08" straps would only be 1.035".With the proper ply thickness under the wing spar butt straps everything wouldstill fit. However, you are probably right, with all of the metal bearingsurfaces, plus the plywood under the cabane straps and aileron pulley, the plywoodis probably overkill.Thanks,Rick Schreiber----- Original Message -----
RE: Pietenpol-List: 3 piece wing
Original Posted By: Bill Church
Bill,As I just mentioned to Chuck Gantzer I will be sure to use all AN hardware. Notputting any plywood under the spar butt straps as shown on the plans will certainlymake life easier.I made up my Aileron pulley brackets yesterday usingTony Bengelis' informationon Bend Allowance and Set backs. I was amazed how accurate it all works out dimensionallyif you measure accurately and take your time.Rick Schreiber----- Original Message -----
Bill,As I just mentioned to Chuck Gantzer I will be sure to use all AN hardware. Notputting any plywood under the spar butt straps as shown on the plans will certainlymake life easier.I made up my Aileron pulley brackets yesterday usingTony Bengelis' informationon Bend Allowance and Set backs. I was amazed how accurate it all works out dimensionallyif you measure accurately and take your time.Rick Schreiber----- Original Message -----