Original Posted By: Earl Myers
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Nose Block/ Leading Edge>Hi All>>I'm just about ready to cut the leading edge for my Sky Scout, and would>like to know how some of you have done it. I'm thinking of 2 different size>roundover bits on the router table, and smooth down the resulting point by>hand sanding- Any better ideas ?. Also, as I'm building from the flying and>glider manual plans, What sizes are the radii- it looks like about a 1"-1>1/4" and a 3/4"-78/">>Thanks>>Mike>>________________________________________________________________________________
Pietenpol-List: Nose Block/ Leading Edge
Pietenpol-List: Nose Block/ Leading Edge
Original Posted By: walter evans
Hi AllI'm just about ready to cut the leading edge for my Sky Scout, and wouldlike to know how some of you have done it. I'm thinking of 2 different sizeroundover bits on the router table, and smooth down the resulting point byhand sanding- Any better ideas ?. Also, as I'm building from the flying andglider manual plans, What sizes are the radii- it looks like about a 1"-11/4" and a 3/4"-78/"ThanksMike________________________________________________________________________________
Hi AllI'm just about ready to cut the leading edge for my Sky Scout, and wouldlike to know how some of you have done it. I'm thinking of 2 different sizeroundover bits on the router table, and smooth down the resulting point byhand sanding- Any better ideas ?. Also, as I'm building from the flying andglider manual plans, What sizes are the radii- it looks like about a 1"-11/4" and a 3/4"-78/"ThanksMike________________________________________________________________________________
Pietenpol-List: Re: Nose Block/ Leading Edge
Original Posted By: Dave and Connie
Mike,You may want to look into finding a decent hand plane. A Stanley#7 or 8 is a good choice for taking the bumps and lumps outof a long piece. If you go shopping for one DON'T BUY A NEWONE. Get a flea market or antique shop version and sharpen it.I can point you at some reputable web dealers if you want.DaveOn the oldtools list too.....>Hi All>>I'm just about ready to cut the leading edge for my Sky Scout, and would>like to know how some of you have done it. I'm thinking of 2 different size>roundover bits on the router table, and smooth down the resulting point by>hand sanding- Any better ideas ?. Also, as I'm building from the flying and>glider manual plans, What sizes are the radii- it looks like about a 1"-1>1/4" and a 3/4"-78/">>Thanks>>Mike>>________________________________________________________________________________
Mike,You may want to look into finding a decent hand plane. A Stanley#7 or 8 is a good choice for taking the bumps and lumps outof a long piece. If you go shopping for one DON'T BUY A NEWONE. Get a flea market or antique shop version and sharpen it.I can point you at some reputable web dealers if you want.DaveOn the oldtools list too.....>Hi All>>I'm just about ready to cut the leading edge for my Sky Scout, and would>like to know how some of you have done it. I'm thinking of 2 different size>roundover bits on the router table, and smooth down the resulting point by>hand sanding- Any better ideas ?. Also, as I'm building from the flying and>glider manual plans, What sizes are the radii- it looks like about a 1"-1>1/4" and a 3/4"-78/">>Thanks>>Mike>>________________________________________________________________________________
Pietenpol-List: Re: Nose Block/ Leading Edge
Original Posted By: Mike Lund
Mike; On my Scout, I started with a rectangular block of adequate size. I made astiff templete of the final contour. I then made four cuts with a table sawto come angularly close to the profile. I then went to it with a belt sanderthen orbital sander checking the L.E. with the profile as I went. Mine cameout very smooth and can hardly tell it was NOT machine cut. Mike Cuy used a banister or stair handrail to start with.....if he readsthis (MIKE!) he will probebly chime in again with how he did that! My L.E.was one piece, spliced three times and glued, not screwed, to the ribs. Thatsaved a hassle filling in all the screw holes.Earl Myers-----Original Message-----
Mike; On my Scout, I started with a rectangular block of adequate size. I made astiff templete of the final contour. I then made four cuts with a table sawto come angularly close to the profile. I then went to it with a belt sanderthen orbital sander checking the L.E. with the profile as I went. Mine cameout very smooth and can hardly tell it was NOT machine cut. Mike Cuy used a banister or stair handrail to start with.....if he readsthis (MIKE!) he will probebly chime in again with how he did that! My L.E.was one piece, spliced three times and glued, not screwed, to the ribs. Thatsaved a hassle filling in all the screw holes.Earl Myers-----Original Message-----