Original Posted By: steve(at)byu.edu
I found excellent plans for a modular workbench at http://www.aircamper.org/WorkTables.cfm but have a few questions:1. The article suggests using "5/8ths inch particle board top covered with Formica for the work surface" and the addendum article for the work surface suggests: "use one or two thicknesses of 7/16" chipboard (or OSB). While it doesn't look pretty, it doesn't seem to warp like plywood." and further down in the plans suggests using "3/4" Sanded Exterior Plywood" for the work surface. Any recommendations which to use for a good solid flat worksurface?2. A friend I met at Broadhead last year suggested a 4" border around the workbench surface for clamping. This would result in a 16" x 52" footprint instead of the 24" x 60" in the plans. Would 16" make the workbench too tippy? Perhaps a solution would be to add a 2x4 to the bottom section of each of the legs which would result in a 19" width at the bottom or maybe just a horizontal 2x4x60" screwed to the bottom between the two legs.Sincerely,Paul SchultzIron Mountain, MIpschultz(at)uplogon.com________________________________________________________________________________
Pietenpol-List: Workbench
Pietenpol-List: Re: Workbench
Original Posted By: mboynton(at)excite.com
Paul,You might want also to consider MDF (medium density fiberboard). Its verycommon in cabinet making and your local building materials store should haveit. From my experience, its the ultimate in flat surfaces. Also, in itsthickness, its very resistant to compression, so I wouldn't hesitateclamping to it. You would need to put some type of solid edge on it though,just something to protect it, and then put a laminate surface on it. Theedge banding can be very thin and still be amply effective.Mark BoyntonGilbert, Arizona> I found excellent plans for a modular workbench at > http://www.aircamper.org/WorkTables.cfm but have a few questions:> > 1. The article suggests using "5/8ths inch particle board top coveredwith > Formica for the work surface" and the addendum article for the worksurface > suggests: "use one or two thicknesses of 7/16" chipboard (or OSB). Whileit > doesn't look pretty, it doesn't seem to warp like plywood." and further > down in the plans suggests using "3/4" Sanded Exterior Plywood" for the > work surface. Any recommendations which to use for a good solid flat > worksurface?> > 2. A friend I met at Broadhead last year suggested a 4" border around the> workbench surface for clamping. This would result in a 16" x 52"footprint > instead of the 24" x 60" in the plans. Would 16" make the workbench too > tippy? Perhaps a solution would be to add a 2x4 to the bottom section of> each of the legs which would result in a 19" width at the bottom or maybe> just a horizontal 2x4x60" screwed to the bottom between the two legs.> > Sincerely,> > Paul Schultz> > Iron Mountain, MI> pschultz(at)uplogon.com> > ________________________________________________________________________________
Paul,You might want also to consider MDF (medium density fiberboard). Its verycommon in cabinet making and your local building materials store should haveit. From my experience, its the ultimate in flat surfaces. Also, in itsthickness, its very resistant to compression, so I wouldn't hesitateclamping to it. You would need to put some type of solid edge on it though,just something to protect it, and then put a laminate surface on it. Theedge banding can be very thin and still be amply effective.Mark BoyntonGilbert, Arizona> I found excellent plans for a modular workbench at > http://www.aircamper.org/WorkTables.cfm but have a few questions:> > 1. The article suggests using "5/8ths inch particle board top coveredwith > Formica for the work surface" and the addendum article for the worksurface > suggests: "use one or two thicknesses of 7/16" chipboard (or OSB). Whileit > doesn't look pretty, it doesn't seem to warp like plywood." and further > down in the plans suggests using "3/4" Sanded Exterior Plywood" for the > work surface. Any recommendations which to use for a good solid flat > worksurface?> > 2. A friend I met at Broadhead last year suggested a 4" border around the> workbench surface for clamping. This would result in a 16" x 52"footprint > instead of the 24" x 60" in the plans. Would 16" make the workbench too > tippy? Perhaps a solution would be to add a 2x4 to the bottom section of> each of the legs which would result in a 19" width at the bottom or maybe> just a horizontal 2x4x60" screwed to the bottom between the two legs.> > Sincerely,> > Paul Schultz> > Iron Mountain, MI> pschultz(at)uplogon.com> > ________________________________________________________________________________
Pietenpol-List: Re:
Original Posted By: Ian Holland
Larry, If you're able to make contact with William Wynne, would you let us know ifhe's still in business. I'm one of the ones who sent a check (hasn't beencashed yet) and are still waiting for the conversion manual. Thanks.Mark BoyntonGilbert, Arizona> William> > Did you use any of Wynne's component's? I had the opportunity to stopand> visit with him about 6 months ago and he had lot of things related to> Corvair's, (cranks, prop hubs, etc.). He seemed to be veryknowledgeable,> (I'm not sure I know enough to judge), and I had planned to utilize his> resources. I may try to go down there (about 2 hrs south) and see himagain> if I can get in contact with him.> > Larry Ragan> Jacksonville, Fl.________________________________________________________________________________
Larry, If you're able to make contact with William Wynne, would you let us know ifhe's still in business. I'm one of the ones who sent a check (hasn't beencashed yet) and are still waiting for the conversion manual. Thanks.Mark BoyntonGilbert, Arizona> William> > Did you use any of Wynne's component's? I had the opportunity to stopand> visit with him about 6 months ago and he had lot of things related to> Corvair's, (cranks, prop hubs, etc.). He seemed to be veryknowledgeable,> (I'm not sure I know enough to judge), and I had planned to utilize his> resources. I may try to go down there (about 2 hrs south) and see himagain> if I can get in contact with him.> > Larry Ragan> Jacksonville, Fl.________________________________________________________________________________
Pietenpol-List:
Original Posted By: Ken Beanlands
Mark,It may take me several weeks before I even have a chance to go down there,but given the chance, I'll get in touch with Wynne , and I'll keep youposted.P.S. Did you have Wynne's most recent ('99) conversion manual, and if so,what'd you think?Larry RaganJax, Fl.________________________________________________________________________________
Mark,It may take me several weeks before I even have a chance to go down there,but given the chance, I'll get in touch with Wynne , and I'll keep youposted.P.S. Did you have Wynne's most recent ('99) conversion manual, and if so,what'd you think?Larry RaganJax, Fl.________________________________________________________________________________
Pietenpol-List: Re: Workbench
Original Posted By: Ian Holland
This is what I'm using. Originally, I didn't have anything protecting it. However, while I was building the canoe, I used to dump out the remains ofthe mixed epoxy resign on the bench surface and ended up with a ratherhard surface. Since the resign would have been wasted anyway, it didn'tcost me anything. KenOn Thu, 6 May 1999 mboynton(at)excite.com wrote:> Paul,> > You might want also to consider MDF (medium density fiberboard). Its very> common in cabinet making and your local building materials store should have> it. From my experience, its the ultimate in flat surfaces. Also, in its> thickness, its very resistant to compression, so I wouldn't hesitate> clamping to it. You would need to put some type of solid edge on it though,> just something to protect it, and then put a laminate surface on it. The> edge banding can be very thin and still be amply effective.> > Mark Boynton> Gilbert, Arizona> > > > I found excellent plans for a modular workbench at > > http://www.aircamper.org/WorkTables.cfm but have a few questions:> > > > 1. The article suggests using "5/8ths inch particle board top covered> with > > Formica for the work surface" and the addendum article for the work> surface > > suggests: "use one or two thicknesses of 7/16" chipboard (or OSB). While> it > > doesn't look pretty, it doesn't seem to warp like plywood." and further > > down in the plans suggests using "3/4" Sanded Exterior Plywood" for the > > work surface. Any recommendations which to use for a good solid flat > > worksurface?> > > > 2. A friend I met at Broadhead last year suggested a 4" border around the> > > workbench surface for clamping. This would result in a 16" x 52"> footprint > > instead of the 24" x 60" in the plans. Would 16" make the workbench too > > tippy? Perhaps a solution would be to add a 2x4 to the bottom section of> > > each of the legs which would result in a 19" width at the bottom or maybe> > > just a horizontal 2x4x60" screwed to the bottom between the two legs.> > > > Sincerely,> > > > Paul Schultz> > > > Iron Mountain, MI> > pschultz(at)uplogon.com> > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________________> ________________________________________________________________________________
This is what I'm using. Originally, I didn't have anything protecting it. However, while I was building the canoe, I used to dump out the remains ofthe mixed epoxy resign on the bench surface and ended up with a ratherhard surface. Since the resign would have been wasted anyway, it didn'tcost me anything. KenOn Thu, 6 May 1999 mboynton(at)excite.com wrote:> Paul,> > You might want also to consider MDF (medium density fiberboard). Its very> common in cabinet making and your local building materials store should have> it. From my experience, its the ultimate in flat surfaces. Also, in its> thickness, its very resistant to compression, so I wouldn't hesitate> clamping to it. You would need to put some type of solid edge on it though,> just something to protect it, and then put a laminate surface on it. The> edge banding can be very thin and still be amply effective.> > Mark Boynton> Gilbert, Arizona> > > > I found excellent plans for a modular workbench at > > http://www.aircamper.org/WorkTables.cfm but have a few questions:> > > > 1. The article suggests using "5/8ths inch particle board top covered> with > > Formica for the work surface" and the addendum article for the work> surface > > suggests: "use one or two thicknesses of 7/16" chipboard (or OSB). While> it > > doesn't look pretty, it doesn't seem to warp like plywood." and further > > down in the plans suggests using "3/4" Sanded Exterior Plywood" for the > > work surface. Any recommendations which to use for a good solid flat > > worksurface?> > > > 2. A friend I met at Broadhead last year suggested a 4" border around the> > > workbench surface for clamping. This would result in a 16" x 52"> footprint > > instead of the 24" x 60" in the plans. Would 16" make the workbench too > > tippy? Perhaps a solution would be to add a 2x4 to the bottom section of> > > each of the legs which would result in a 19" width at the bottom or maybe> > > just a horizontal 2x4x60" screwed to the bottom between the two legs.> > > > Sincerely,> > > > Paul Schultz> > > > Iron Mountain, MI> > pschultz(at)uplogon.com> > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________________> ________________________________________________________________________________
Pietenpol-List: Re:
Original Posted By: "Ragan, Lawrence M."
Me too. I'm real interested in the manual, but get a voice mail at theland number (thanks) that has exhausted the recording tape.Alternate.... Has any one got a copy of the manual that they are donewith, and want to recover the dollars spent? If so, I will buy it.________________________________________________________________________________
Me too. I'm real interested in the manual, but get a voice mail at theland number (thanks) that has exhausted the recording tape.Alternate.... Has any one got a copy of the manual that they are donewith, and want to recover the dollars spent? If so, I will buy it.________________________________________________________________________________
Pietenpol-List: Re:
Original Posted By: walter evans
Larry, If you manage to hook up with Wynne, can you let me know if he isstill in business? I would like to get ahold of his rebuild manualThanks,-=Ian=-________________________________________________________________________________
Larry, If you manage to hook up with Wynne, can you let me know if he isstill in business? I would like to get ahold of his rebuild manualThanks,-=Ian=-________________________________________________________________________________
Pietenpol-List: Re: Workbench
Original Posted By: Craig Lawler
Paul,I'm glad the MDF worked out for you. As far as the plastic laminate, I'dsuggest Formica or Wilsonart(sp?) One tip - MDF really likes to soak up theadhesive. You might want to apply two coats, the second after the first hasdried to a tack. Also, don't cut cost on the adhesive (contact cement). Myadvice is to use the stuff the professionals use - 3M. I found out throughexperience that cheap glue makes for cheap bonds. You should be able tofind both the laminate and the 3M contact cement from a laminate supplyhouse (yellow pages). I'm a real novice on Piet building (just starting onmy wing ribs) but I'll probably try using round-over bits on my router tablewhen it comes time to put the countours on the leading and trailing edges ofthe stabilizers. Better advice, anyone?Mark> Mark;> > Thanks for the suggestion to use MDF, it works great! I built five, soon> to be six workbenches. I modified the plans slightly and put a 4"clamping > surface around each one. I'm looking for hasps to fasten the workbenches> together from underneath (my garage floor is very uneven). I used oaktrim > on the edges which looks nice and works fine.> > What type of a laminate surface do you recommend? Also, I'm going tostart > building the tail soon and am wondering how to get the rounded front and > back shapes. Is there a router bit or a shaper bit I can buy?> > Thanks again,> > Paul Schultz> pschultz(at)uplogon.com________________________________________________________________________________
Paul,I'm glad the MDF worked out for you. As far as the plastic laminate, I'dsuggest Formica or Wilsonart(sp?) One tip - MDF really likes to soak up theadhesive. You might want to apply two coats, the second after the first hasdried to a tack. Also, don't cut cost on the adhesive (contact cement). Myadvice is to use the stuff the professionals use - 3M. I found out throughexperience that cheap glue makes for cheap bonds. You should be able tofind both the laminate and the 3M contact cement from a laminate supplyhouse (yellow pages). I'm a real novice on Piet building (just starting onmy wing ribs) but I'll probably try using round-over bits on my router tablewhen it comes time to put the countours on the leading and trailing edges ofthe stabilizers. Better advice, anyone?Mark> Mark;> > Thanks for the suggestion to use MDF, it works great! I built five, soon> to be six workbenches. I modified the plans slightly and put a 4"clamping > surface around each one. I'm looking for hasps to fasten the workbenches> together from underneath (my garage floor is very uneven). I used oaktrim > on the edges which looks nice and works fine.> > What type of a laminate surface do you recommend? Also, I'm going tostart > building the tail soon and am wondering how to get the rounded front and > back shapes. Is there a router bit or a shaper bit I can buy?> > Thanks again,> > Paul Schultz> pschultz(at)uplogon.com________________________________________________________________________________
Pietenpol-List: Re: Workbench
Original Posted By: Richard DeCosta
Joe,I think what Paul is doing is just covering the surfaces of his workbenches. What I've done and what I think many of the builders have done isto build a rib jig that sets on top of a work bench. I really don't knowwhat the others are doing to the surface of their jigs; I used an oldcounter top (laminated) I removed from my house. To be honest, I don't knowif it will resist the glue I'm using (aerolite) or not. I've used aone-inch hole saw to remove the material directly below where each gluejoint will be. My hope is that the glue will drip through and minimize anysticking to the jig. I'm using 1/4 inch staples - the wire kind, to clampthe gussets to the cap strips and bracing while the glue cures. Then I'llremove the staples. I'll put gussets on one side while the rib is in thejig, then after the glue is stable, I'll take the rib out of the jig andgusset the other side. Like I mentioned before, I'm new at this. Othersmay have better advice to share with you. Hope this helps.Mark > Mark,> So you build the wing jig surface covered with Formica or Wilsonart and> that should prevent the adhesive from sticking to the jig, right?> I've wondered about how to prevent sticking. Does the rib just lift outof > the jig or do you have to "Pop" it out? Are you applying the gussets onone > side while the rib is in the jig? Are you fastening the gussets inanyway, > or just clamping? How long does the rib need to stay in the jig beforeyou > can remove it to start on a second?> Did you have to soak or steam the cap strips or can you fit them into the> jig dry?> Are you sick of all of these questions??> > Sorry Mark, but I'm anxious to get started also, but need some answers > first.> > Thanks,> Joe> > >Paul,> >> >I'm glad the MDF worked out for you. As far as the plastic laminate,I'd> >suggest Formica or Wilsonart(sp?) One tip - MDF really likes to soak up> >the> >adhesive. You might want to apply two coats, the second after the first> >has> >dried to a tack. Also, don't cut cost on the adhesive (contact cement).> >My> >advice is to use the stuff the professionals use - 3M. I found outthrough> >experience that cheap glue makes for cheap bonds. You should be able to> >find both the laminate and the 3M contact cement from a laminate supply> >house (yellow pages). I'm a real novice on Piet building (just startingon> >my wing ribs) but I'll probably try using round-over bits on my router > >table> >when it comes time to put the countours on the leading and trailing edges> >of> >the stabilizers. Better advice, anyone?> >> >Mark> >> >> > > Mark;> > >> > > Thanks for the suggestion to use MDF, it works great! I built five, > >soon> >> > > to be six workbenches. I modified the plans slightly and put a 4"> >clamping> > > surface around each one. I'm looking for hasps to fasten the > >workbenches> >> > > together from underneath (my garage floor is very uneven). I usedoak> >trim> > > on the edges which looks nice and works fine.> > >> > > What type of a laminate surface do you recommend? Also, I'm going to> >start> > > building the tail soon and am wondering how to get the rounded frontand> > > back shapes. Is there a router bit or a shaper bit I can buy?> > >> > > Thanks again,> > >> > > Paul Schultz> > > pschultz(at)uplogon.com> >> >> >> >> >> >_______________________________________________________> > ________________________________________________________________________________
Joe,I think what Paul is doing is just covering the surfaces of his workbenches. What I've done and what I think many of the builders have done isto build a rib jig that sets on top of a work bench. I really don't knowwhat the others are doing to the surface of their jigs; I used an oldcounter top (laminated) I removed from my house. To be honest, I don't knowif it will resist the glue I'm using (aerolite) or not. I've used aone-inch hole saw to remove the material directly below where each gluejoint will be. My hope is that the glue will drip through and minimize anysticking to the jig. I'm using 1/4 inch staples - the wire kind, to clampthe gussets to the cap strips and bracing while the glue cures. Then I'llremove the staples. I'll put gussets on one side while the rib is in thejig, then after the glue is stable, I'll take the rib out of the jig andgusset the other side. Like I mentioned before, I'm new at this. Othersmay have better advice to share with you. Hope this helps.Mark > Mark,> So you build the wing jig surface covered with Formica or Wilsonart and> that should prevent the adhesive from sticking to the jig, right?> I've wondered about how to prevent sticking. Does the rib just lift outof > the jig or do you have to "Pop" it out? Are you applying the gussets onone > side while the rib is in the jig? Are you fastening the gussets inanyway, > or just clamping? How long does the rib need to stay in the jig beforeyou > can remove it to start on a second?> Did you have to soak or steam the cap strips or can you fit them into the> jig dry?> Are you sick of all of these questions??> > Sorry Mark, but I'm anxious to get started also, but need some answers > first.> > Thanks,> Joe> > >Paul,> >> >I'm glad the MDF worked out for you. As far as the plastic laminate,I'd> >suggest Formica or Wilsonart(sp?) One tip - MDF really likes to soak up> >the> >adhesive. You might want to apply two coats, the second after the first> >has> >dried to a tack. Also, don't cut cost on the adhesive (contact cement).> >My> >advice is to use the stuff the professionals use - 3M. I found outthrough> >experience that cheap glue makes for cheap bonds. You should be able to> >find both the laminate and the 3M contact cement from a laminate supply> >house (yellow pages). I'm a real novice on Piet building (just startingon> >my wing ribs) but I'll probably try using round-over bits on my router > >table> >when it comes time to put the countours on the leading and trailing edges> >of> >the stabilizers. Better advice, anyone?> >> >Mark> >> >> > > Mark;> > >> > > Thanks for the suggestion to use MDF, it works great! I built five, > >soon> >> > > to be six workbenches. I modified the plans slightly and put a 4"> >clamping> > > surface around each one. I'm looking for hasps to fasten the > >workbenches> >> > > together from underneath (my garage floor is very uneven). I usedoak> >trim> > > on the edges which looks nice and works fine.> > >> > > What type of a laminate surface do you recommend? Also, I'm going to> >start> > > building the tail soon and am wondering how to get the rounded frontand> > > back shapes. Is there a router bit or a shaper bit I can buy?> > >> > > Thanks again,> > >> > > Paul Schultz> > > pschultz(at)uplogon.com> >> >> >> >> >> >_______________________________________________________> > ________________________________________________________________________________
> Re: Workbench
Original Posted By: Doug Sheets
Thanks Mark, I never thought about a hole!! I've been going over the plans and listing out as many questions as I can, drawing by drawing. I figure I'll just put them up on a web site with answers/solutions I receive for review. Thanks again for your help.Joe>From: mboynton(at)excite.com>Reply-To: Pietenpol Discussion >To: Pietenpol Discussion >Subject: Re: Workbench>Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 16:12:07 -0700 (PDT)>>Joe,>>I think what Paul is doing is just covering the surfaces of his work>benches. What I've done and what I think many of the builders have done is>to build a rib jig that sets on top of a work bench. I really don't know>what the others are doing to the surface of their jigs; I used an old>counter top (laminated) I removed from my house. To be honest, I don't >know>if it will resist the glue I'm using (aerolite) or not. I've used a>one-inch hole saw to remove the material directly below where each glue>joint will be. My hope is that the glue will drip through and minimize any>sticking to the jig. I'm using 1/4 inch staples - the wire kind, to clamp>the gussets to the cap strips and bracing while the glue cures. Then I'll>remove the staples. I'll put gussets on one side while the rib is in the>jig, then after the glue is stable, I'll take the rib out of the jig and>gusset the other side. Like I mentioned before, I'm new at this. Others>may have better advice to share with you. Hope this helps.>>Mark>________________________________________________________________________________
Thanks Mark, I never thought about a hole!! I've been going over the plans and listing out as many questions as I can, drawing by drawing. I figure I'll just put them up on a web site with answers/solutions I receive for review. Thanks again for your help.Joe>From: mboynton(at)excite.com>Reply-To: Pietenpol Discussion >To: Pietenpol Discussion >Subject: Re: Workbench>Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 16:12:07 -0700 (PDT)>>Joe,>>I think what Paul is doing is just covering the surfaces of his work>benches. What I've done and what I think many of the builders have done is>to build a rib jig that sets on top of a work bench. I really don't know>what the others are doing to the surface of their jigs; I used an old>counter top (laminated) I removed from my house. To be honest, I don't >know>if it will resist the glue I'm using (aerolite) or not. I've used a>one-inch hole saw to remove the material directly below where each glue>joint will be. My hope is that the glue will drip through and minimize any>sticking to the jig. I'm using 1/4 inch staples - the wire kind, to clamp>the gussets to the cap strips and bracing while the glue cures. Then I'll>remove the staples. I'll put gussets on one side while the rib is in the>jig, then after the glue is stable, I'll take the rib out of the jig and>gusset the other side. Like I mentioned before, I'm new at this. Others>may have better advice to share with you. Hope this helps.>>Mark>________________________________________________________________________________