Original Posted By: John Weikel
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Stapling Gussets> Thanks everybody for the info, I think Terry is right, I need to quit>sitting on the sidelines and start cutting and gluing!>>Terry, I used the xacto razor saw when I was building RC models, and I do>remember it making clean sharp cuts - good advice. I think I'll try a rib>with staples, and one without, just to compare time spent, and quality of>the job. Maybe even test them both to death just to see if there is any>difference. You can read all the books you want, but since you're the test>pilot up there, YOU have to be the one who has confidence in the build!>> Anyway, thanks again for the info everybody, we're just about in ourhouse>now, so maybe I can start thinking about my workbench, and getting to>building!>>Gary>________________________________________________________________________________
Pietenpol-List: Stapling Gussets
Pietenpol-List: Stapling Gussets
Original Posted By: BARNSTMR(at)aol.com
Gary,I am on my 7th rib now. I don't know much about T-88, although I know of some guys that use it and merely weight down the gussets for some clamping pressure. I am using staples and they work great. And, I am using Aero-Poxy which I understand is very similar to T-88. I'm having good luck with staples and prefer them to weights. To me...the staples are good because you can accurately place them where you feel like they are needed on the particular joint. Sometimes this is necessary if you have any inconsistancies in height between your brace sticks and capstrips. Also...I feel a lot better about a joint when I pay close attention to how the gusset lays down. You can see this when stapling and watch the glue squeeze out just like it is supposed to. I think with weights...I might not realize if the gusset didn't lay down like I wanted until after the glue is set. I don't worry a whole lot about height inconsistancies unless they are more than about 1/32nd inch...because the 1/16th plywood flexes to form and is clamped by the staple.I use Arrow JT21 1/4 inch stalpes in a hand squeeze JT21M staple gun which I got at Wal-Mart. Some guys were telling me that they capture a piece of strap material under the staple to help pull them out. I built one rib using garbage bag twist ties under the staples and found that they were good for that purpose, but are more trouble than they are worth. I found that a good quality set of needle nose pliers (Snap-on) pulls 'em straight out rather easily. Sometimes I have to use a pocket knife to pry up a corner so my pliers can get a grip...but that isn't a very big issue to me. One more note....I have cut my brace stick fitting time in half by changing tools. I Mitre each stick as needed for the joint. When I first started, I had a fine-tooth hacksaw blade that worked pretty well for this....then I went to cutting them on the bandsaw which worked better. With both of those methods...I found myself wasting a lot of time having to sand the angle to get it just right. (I dont like sanding either, because it upsets the wood fibers. You get a much stronger glue bond on cut fibers as opposed to sanded smooth ones.) Anyway....so then, I got smart and picked up an EXACTO saw at the Hobby shop. These have a very thin blade...like razor thin. There is no comparison to the kind of results I get. I can usually eyeball the angle and cut it...and it usually fits the first time. Makes the process go much better and I feel better about the glue bond too.Anyway....the best way is just to start building...and you'll pick up the skills and the tools to do a good job as you go. Good luck.......Terry B________________________________________________________________________________
Gary,I am on my 7th rib now. I don't know much about T-88, although I know of some guys that use it and merely weight down the gussets for some clamping pressure. I am using staples and they work great. And, I am using Aero-Poxy which I understand is very similar to T-88. I'm having good luck with staples and prefer them to weights. To me...the staples are good because you can accurately place them where you feel like they are needed on the particular joint. Sometimes this is necessary if you have any inconsistancies in height between your brace sticks and capstrips. Also...I feel a lot better about a joint when I pay close attention to how the gusset lays down. You can see this when stapling and watch the glue squeeze out just like it is supposed to. I think with weights...I might not realize if the gusset didn't lay down like I wanted until after the glue is set. I don't worry a whole lot about height inconsistancies unless they are more than about 1/32nd inch...because the 1/16th plywood flexes to form and is clamped by the staple.I use Arrow JT21 1/4 inch stalpes in a hand squeeze JT21M staple gun which I got at Wal-Mart. Some guys were telling me that they capture a piece of strap material under the staple to help pull them out. I built one rib using garbage bag twist ties under the staples and found that they were good for that purpose, but are more trouble than they are worth. I found that a good quality set of needle nose pliers (Snap-on) pulls 'em straight out rather easily. Sometimes I have to use a pocket knife to pry up a corner so my pliers can get a grip...but that isn't a very big issue to me. One more note....I have cut my brace stick fitting time in half by changing tools. I Mitre each stick as needed for the joint. When I first started, I had a fine-tooth hacksaw blade that worked pretty well for this....then I went to cutting them on the bandsaw which worked better. With both of those methods...I found myself wasting a lot of time having to sand the angle to get it just right. (I dont like sanding either, because it upsets the wood fibers. You get a much stronger glue bond on cut fibers as opposed to sanded smooth ones.) Anyway....so then, I got smart and picked up an EXACTO saw at the Hobby shop. These have a very thin blade...like razor thin. There is no comparison to the kind of results I get. I can usually eyeball the angle and cut it...and it usually fits the first time. Makes the process go much better and I feel better about the glue bond too.Anyway....the best way is just to start building...and you'll pick up the skills and the tools to do a good job as you go. Good luck.......Terry B________________________________________________________________________________
Pietenpol-List: Re: Stapling Gussets
Original Posted By: Gary Leopold
Thanks everybody for the info, I think Terry is right, I need to quit sitting on the sidelines and start cutting and gluing!Terry, I used the xacto razor saw when I was building RC models, and I do remember it making clean sharp cuts - good advice. I think I'll try a rib with staples, and one without, just to compare time spent, and quality of the job. Maybe even test them both to death just to see if there is any difference. You can read all the books you want, but since you're the test pilot up there, YOU have to be the one who has confidence in the build! Anyway, thanks again for the info everybody, we're just about in our house now, so maybe I can start thinking about my workbench, and getting to building!Gary________________________________________________________________________________
Thanks everybody for the info, I think Terry is right, I need to quit sitting on the sidelines and start cutting and gluing!Terry, I used the xacto razor saw when I was building RC models, and I do remember it making clean sharp cuts - good advice. I think I'll try a rib with staples, and one without, just to compare time spent, and quality of the job. Maybe even test them both to death just to see if there is any difference. You can read all the books you want, but since you're the test pilot up there, YOU have to be the one who has confidence in the build! Anyway, thanks again for the info everybody, we're just about in our house now, so maybe I can start thinking about my workbench, and getting to building!Gary________________________________________________________________________________
Pietenpol-List: Re: Stapling Gussets
Original Posted By: Gary Meadows
I used staples 1/4 J-21 for all plywood to wood glue joints (T-88) on myRW-6 and have had good results. Approx 6000 staples used and pulled out. Ihate to pull those little suckers......John W-----Original Message-----
I used staples 1/4 J-21 for all plywood to wood glue joints (T-88) on myRW-6 and have had good results. Approx 6000 staples used and pulled out. Ihate to pull those little suckers......John W-----Original Message-----