Pietenpol-List: Drag/Antidrag wires

matronics · Post by **matronics** » Sat Jan 01, 2000 11:13 am

Original Posted By: vistin(at)juno.com
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Drag/Antidrag wiresYall:I am interested in what yall used for antidrag/drag wires! I am buildingthe GN-1 and am kinda wondering bout this when I get to that stage.SteveSteve W GN-1 builderIHA #6________________________________________________________________________________

matronics · Post by **matronics** » Sat Jan 01, 2000 12:07 pm

Original Posted By: del magsam
Steve, the easiest thing to do for drag wires is to get some 5/32 stock anda die and make your own. I thread mine 6/40. Don't forget to trammel thewing. Most harware stores and some lumber yards have the stock. Good luck.Copinfo(at)home.comTim CunninghamDes Moines, Iowa (515) 237-1510Subject: Pietenpol-List: Drag/Antidrag wires> Yall:>> I am interested in what yall used for antidrag/drag wires! I am building> the GN-1 and am kinda wondering bout this when I get to that stage.>> Steve>> Steve W GN-1 builder> IHA #6________________________________________________________________________________Date: Sat, 1 Jan 2000 12:55:41 -0800 (PST)

matronics · Post by **matronics** » Sat Jan 01, 2000 9:05 pm

Original Posted By: Lawrence V Williams
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Drag/Antidrag wires

matronics · Post by **matronics** » Sat Jan 01, 2000 10:52 pm

Original Posted By: LaurenMWilliams(at)webtv.net (Lauren Williams)
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Drag/Antidrag wiresWhat you do is make long steel rods, threaded on the ends that passdiagonally through the spars at the compression struts. On the forwardside of the forward spar and the rear side of the rear spar you glue andscrew on trapezoidal shaped blocks of wood. The hole, and threaded rod,go through these blocks as well as the spars. The rods cross inside thespar and block, being offset slightly one above the other and come outof the wood on the angled ends of the blocks. On the outside of theblocks of wood you put a washer and Niloc nut on each end of the rods.By adjusting the nuts you take up the slack in the rod. Checking thealignment of the wing (trammelling is taking diagonal measurements) youincrease the tension in the rods until you feel that the wing is secureagainst drag and antidrag forces (doesn't take much). Using threadedrods does away with the need for turnbuckles. The ends of thetrapezoidal blocks are angled so that the surface is 90 degrees to theangle of the drag rod, giving a proper surface for the washers and nutsto land on. Over all, a very simple, effective and inexpensivestructural scheme.________________________________________________________________________________

matronics · Post by **matronics** » Sun Jan 02, 2000 5:12 pm

Original Posted By:> Lauren Williams
Well now here is an idea I'm definatly using. Got any nice ideas for thetail braces? I was planning some homebuilt brackets and nuts to reduce thenumber of turnbuckles required. As far as the cut threads versus therolled threads, I have no doubt the 3/16 is far greater than required forthe actual stress involved and will cut them myself. Unless someone cantell me how to build a thread rolling mill???Wayne Sippola, Winnipeg----------

matronics · Post by **matronics** » Sun Jan 02, 2000 5:26 pm

Original Posted By: robin goodfellow
I know two people who started projects, one of which is starting his 2nd.walt evans-----Original Message-----

matronics · Post by **matronics** » Mon Jan 03, 2000 9:37 pm

Original Posted By: DonanClara(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Drag/Antidrag wires>>Cable looped around an AN100 thimble, secured with an 18-3-M>Nicopress sleeve. Attached with an AN115 shackle on one end>and a -22 (2200 pound) turnbuckle assembly on the other end.>>A related note to keep in mind when ordering turnbuckle assemblies:>The cable eye should be on the LEFT hand threaded side of the turnbuckle.Why? Because aircraft cable is wound to the right and has a tendency tounravel to the left when in tension. The left hand threaded cable eye willthen be turning in the direction that will tighten the fitting. It is notalways possible to do this but should be done whenever able and noted inyour building log. The inspector will be impressed.>>Greg Cardinal>>>>> 01/04 1:12 PM >>>>>What did you use at the ends of your cable!>>Steve>>________________________________________________________________________________

matronics · Post by **matronics** » Tue Jan 04, 2000 5:16 am

Original Posted By: Ken Beanlands
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Drag/Antidrag wires>>Same here, I used the 7x19 galvanized cabled. The Canadian Tire chain>carries the cable. I found it there one day labled as "aircraft cable". Of>course, I assumed that it was similar to aircraft cable until I moved the>spool so I could read the end of it. Sure enough, it's the same stuff I>had spent twice as much for from ASS. Gotta love the good ol' Canadian>Tire store.>>Ken.>>On Tue, 4 Jan 2000, Greg Cardinal wrote:>>>>> I used 1/8" 7X19 galvanized cabled.>>>> Greg Cardinal.>>>> Yall:>>>> I am interested in what yall used for antidrag/drag wires! I am building>> the GN-1 and am kinda wondering bout this when I get to that stage.>>>> Steve>>>> Steve W GN-1 builder>> IHA #6>>>>>>>>>>>>Ken Beanlands B.Eng (Aerospace)>Calgary, Alberta, Canada>Christavia MK 1 C-GREN>>>________________________________________________________________________________Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 10:57:55 -0700 (MST)

matronics · Post by **matronics** » Tue Jan 04, 2000 10:10 am

Original Posted By: Ken Beanlands

matronics · Post by **matronics** » Tue Jan 04, 2000 11:03 am

Original Posted By: Greg Cardinal
As a point of reference, the Fly Baby uses 1/8" 1 x 19 SS cable for thedrag/antidrag.Also, the old T-craft uses hard wire for the tail bracing -- #8-36?? -- thetail attach brackets are made of 3/4 x .062 strap, a piece of 5/8 " steel1/2 rd., & (I think -- my research is still in process -- I need to visit acouple "Hog" shops!

the spoke nipples from a "pan-head" Harley.Definitely, get your threads rolled -- this could probably be done by anunderstanding cycle shop in thier spoke machine?!Mike C.PP,KS----- Original Message -----

matronics · Post by **matronics** » Tue Jan 04, 2000 11:20 am

Original Posted By: Ken Beanlands
KenTry TSC next time....$0.68/ meter for the 7/19. Beats the #$% out of the$5-$7/ foot some canadian aviation outlets (we wont mention Leavens ;-)charge.Mike-----Original Message-----

matronics · Post by **matronics** » Tue Jan 04, 2000 12:03 pm

Original Posted By: Ken Beanlands

matronics · Post by **matronics** » Tue Jan 04, 2000 1:12 pm

Original Posted By: del magsam
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Drag/Antidrag wiresWhat did you use at the ends of your cable! Steve writes:> > > I used 1/8" 7X19 galvanized cabled. > > Greg Cardinal.> > Yall:> > I am interested in what yall used for antidrag/drag wires! I am > building> the GN-1 and am kinda wondering bout this when I get to that stage.> > Steve> > Steve W GN-1 builder> IHA #6> > > > > Steve W GN-1 builderIHA #6________________________________________________________________________________Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 12:28:54 -0800 (PST)

matronics · Post by **matronics** » Tue Jan 04, 2000 5:11 pm

Original Posted By: Greg Cardinal
I would think that proper safety wiring would make this a moot point.Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)-----Original Message-----

matronics · Post by **matronics** » Tue Jan 04, 2000 5:31 pm

Original Posted By: Ken Beanlands
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Drag/Antidrag wiresGreg thanks for your interesting comment on cable unraveling under tension and loosening the turnbuckle eye, however, I was wondering how much force this untwisting of the cable would apply and if a properly saftied turnbuckle wouldn't prevent this. Comment ? Don________________________________________________________________________________Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 16:34:16 -0700 (MST)

matronics · Post by **matronics** » Tue Jan 04, 2000 7:56 pm

Original Posted By: del magsam

matronics · Post by **matronics** » Tue Jan 04, 2000 8:59 pm

Original Posted By: "Greg Cardinal"
I would not use the 29.95 set of guages, but I would haveno problem using a better quality unit. SW makes some veryreliable gauges for automotive and merine, thay alsomanufacture aircraft gauges.>From: del magsam >Reply-To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com>To: piet aircamper >Subject: Pietenpol-List: engine instruments>Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 17:56:18 -0800 (PST)>>>do most of you guys out there use aircraft engine>instruments or do you go to the automotive store and>get the 3 (oil pressure, temp, and ammeter) for 29.95?>del>>Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.>http://messenger.yahoo.com>>________________________________________________________________________________Date: Wed, 05 Jan 2000 07:51:27 -0600

matronics · Post by **matronics** » Fri Jan 07, 2000 5:19 pm

Original Posted By: LaurenMWilliams(at)webtv.net (Lauren Williams)
Steve,It's not a plate. Those would be far too heavy. According to my drawing theyare 6", and there are 4 holes drilled 2X1/4, and 2X3/16ths. They arealternated with 1/4 at one end on a 1/2 radius ending with 3/16ths at theother end on a 1/2 radius. Space between the 1st and second hole is 1".Space between the second and third is 3 1/2"., then 1 1/2".Regards,Dom.________________________________________________________________________________

matronics · Post by **matronics** » Fri Jan 07, 2000 5:30 pm

Original Posted By: "Domenico Bellissimo"
Be aware that the Canadian tire cable does not have the cotton (red color)in the middle of the strands to wick the oil which preserves the trueaircraft cable. Also they don't pay for the cable to be inspected. Basicallyyou get what you pay for.Dom.________________________________________________________________________________

matronics · Post by **matronics** » Fri Jan 07, 2000 5:41 pm

Original Posted By: "Domenico Bellissimo"
Gentlemen,7x19 stretches and 1x19 does not.Dom.________________________________________________________________________________

matronics · Post by **matronics** » Sat Jan 08, 2000 1:31 am

Original Posted By: TomTravis(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Drag/Antidrag wires7x19 and 7x7 (in the smaller sizes) are flexible wire rope, intended tobe used around sheaves and thimbles. 1x19 is rigging wire for stayingand is intended to be used in straight runs. It should be used withswaged end terminals and should not be wraped around a thimble,especially if it is stainless.________________________________________________________________________________

matronics · Post by **matronics** » Sat Jan 08, 2000 9:44 am

Original Posted By: Camera Man
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Neat toolSpeaking of tools, what kind of stapler is best for the rib gussets? I bought an Arrow electric and it doesn't seem to work too well. Any suggestions? Thanks, Tom Travis________________________________________________________________________________Date: Sat, 08 Jan 2000 08:30:41 -0800

matronics · Post by **matronics** » Sun Jan 09, 2000 2:25 pm

Original Posted By:> Domenico Bellissimo
There was a good article in the Experimenter magazine a few years ago onaircraft cable.The colored strand is an identifier only,according to thestory,mine happens to be yellow. Doug ..----------

matronics · Post by **matronics** » Thu Jan 13, 2000 9:56 pm

Original Posted By: Wkoucky(at)aol.com
Ken,You re probably right. I purchased some, but only used it where it would beout of the weather. Like I said one of the differences is the missing cottonto wick the oil through the strands. I don't know why the P/N is the same,but on the wire I purchased from leavens the fibre was red in color, andmissing from Cdn. Tires'.Regards,Dom.________________________________________________________________________________

matronics · Post by **matronics** » Fri Apr 28, 2017 9:28 pm

Original Posted By: "walter evans"
> Williams)> > What you do is make long steel rods, threaded on the ends that pass> diagonally through the spars at the compression struts. On the forward> side of the forward spar and the rear side of the rear spar you glue andsnip excellent method________________________________________________________________________________

matronics · Post by **matronics** » Fri Apr 28, 2017 9:28 pm

Original Posted By: vistin(at)juno.com
> Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Drag/Antidrag wires> > > >> >Same here, I used the 7x19 galvanized cabled. The Canadian Tire chain> >carries the cable. I found it there one day labled as "aircraft cable". Of> >course, I assumed that it was similar to aircraft cable until I moved the> >spool so I could read the end of it. Sure enough, it's the same stuff I> >had spent twice as much for from ASS. Gotta love the good ol' Canadian> >Tire store.> >> >Ken.> >Ken Beanlands B.Eng (Aerospace)Calgary, Alberta, CanadaChristavia MK 1 C-GREN________________________________________________________________________________

matronics · Post by **matronics** » Fri Apr 28, 2017 9:28 pm

Original Posted By: John E Fay
> > > Be aware that the Canadian tire cable does not have the cotton (redcolor)> in the middle of the strands to wick the oil which preserves the true> aircraft cable. Also they don't pay for the cable to be inspected.Basically> you get what you pay for.> > Dom.> > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________Date: Sun, 9 Jan 2000 16:28:32 -0600Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Neat tool

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