Original Posted By: Chris a Tracy
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Improved Piet and the GN-1Ed,I believe the GN1 uses some Cub parts or copies thereof i.e. landing gear, control stick assy, fuel tank, and complete firewall forward. If the Cub parts were purchased, it could add to the overall cost. If made, they appear to be a little more complicated than the Piet parts. It uses the same airfoil and a similar tailgroup and beyond that is a very different airplane and perhaps heavier. Keep weighing all the information available until you find the airplane that best suits your total mission profile. After that, building and operating is easy and fun.!!!!!!!!!Doug Bryant Wichita, Ks________________________________________________________________________________Date: Mon, 13 Nov 2000 20:24:08 -0800Subject: Pietenpol-List: More tail hinge questions
Pietenpol-List: More tail hinge questions
Pietenpol-List: More tail hinge questions
Original Posted By: Chris a Tracy
Subject: Pietenpol-List: More tail hinge questions
Subject: Pietenpol-List: More tail hinge questions
Re: Pietenpol-List: Improved Piet and the GN-1
Original Posted By: Edward Nolan
Ed I too have both sets of plans and find that as I go many of the methodsused on the Pietenpol are better or at least different than the GN1. The GN1does not provide for repositioning the wing for differing engine wieght. Italso has an aileron hinge design that is not as neat as the Piet., with gapseals that cross though the hinge lines. The GN1 elevator has provision fora trim tab which may be an advantage for changes in pilot weight. If I wasto start over I would build the long fuse Piet. As it is my GN/ Piet is amixture of both with it leaning more towards the Piet. I guess I started theGN1 before I knew better or the difference. If you had a wrecked Piper Cubfor parts a GN1 would make more sense but then Cub parts are pricey thesedays.John----- Original Message -----
Ed I too have both sets of plans and find that as I go many of the methodsused on the Pietenpol are better or at least different than the GN1. The GN1does not provide for repositioning the wing for differing engine wieght. Italso has an aileron hinge design that is not as neat as the Piet., with gapseals that cross though the hinge lines. The GN1 elevator has provision fora trim tab which may be an advantage for changes in pilot weight. If I wasto start over I would build the long fuse Piet. As it is my GN/ Piet is amixture of both with it leaning more towards the Piet. I guess I started theGN1 before I knew better or the difference. If you had a wrecked Piper Cubfor parts a GN1 would make more sense but then Cub parts are pricey thesedays.John----- Original Message -----
RE: Pietenpol-List: More tail hinge questions
Original Posted By: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
Chris,,, For what it's worth,, I measured out the hinges on thestab,centered them,traced around with a pencil and marked the holes. Then I drilled the markedholes,screwed in the hinges, put the rest of the hinge on them and then lined uptheelevators to them, made my marks, undid the hinge halfs and made sure theywerecentered on the edge,, traced around again and marked the holes andeverything linedright up. Did the same with the rudder. Maybe I just got lucky but it workedquite well.Carl-----Original Message-----
Chris,,, For what it's worth,, I measured out the hinges on thestab,centered them,traced around with a pencil and marked the holes. Then I drilled the markedholes,screwed in the hinges, put the rest of the hinge on them and then lined uptheelevators to them, made my marks, undid the hinge halfs and made sure theywerecentered on the edge,, traced around again and marked the holes andeverything linedright up. Did the same with the rudder. Maybe I just got lucky but it workedquite well.Carl-----Original Message-----
Pietenpol-List: More tail hinge questions
Original Posted By: Jeff Griffin
Re: Pietenpol-List: More tail hinge questions
Original Posted By: del magsam
Re: Pietenpol-List: More tail hinge questions
Original Posted By: Chris a Tracy
Measure twice and drill once. I just finished drilling/building the tailsurfaces and after measuring carefully before drilling, everything lined upperfectly. Also, did you/are you recessing the hinges into the spar?----- Original Message -----
Measure twice and drill once. I just finished drilling/building the tailsurfaces and after measuring carefully before drilling, everything lined upperfectly. Also, did you/are you recessing the hinges into the spar?----- Original Message -----
Re: Pietenpol-List: More tail hinge questions
Original Posted By: "Gary Meadows"
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: More tail hinge questionsChris. I got perfect alignment by using the guide on my router. All myhinge slots came out straight, and of course the hinges set in the slotsstraight. if using the cast al. hinges you need to recess them. Thehinges fit very tight in the 1/2X1/4 deep slot allowing you to positionthem for final fit and they stay put for drilling of the holes. Leon S.________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: More tail hinge questionsChris. I got perfect alignment by using the guide on my router. All myhinge slots came out straight, and of course the hinges set in the slotsstraight. if using the cast al. hinges you need to recess them. Thehinges fit very tight in the 1/2X1/4 deep slot allowing you to positionthem for final fit and they stay put for drilling of the holes. Leon S.________________________________________________________________________________
Re: Pietenpol-List: More tail hinge questions
Original Posted By: "Gary Meadows"
Chris, Here is what I found for the problem of locating the tail hinges. I'm using Vi Kapler hinges on my Piet, but this would apply to any of them. I took a long (4') rod that was 3/16" diameter, and placed sll three hinges one on side on it. This way you can make sure that your hinges are all in perfect alignment and won't bind any when you install them. While the hinges are on this rod, you can mark where you need to place them. It's one of two techniques that's worked very well for me.My #2 idea for placing the hinges is to make a guide block. To do this, take a piece of 1" wide stock about 2" long, same as the longeron material and glue two plates of 1/16" x2" x 1 1/4" plywood on either side.This will give you a block of wood with two outside plates sticking down that will give you a way to accurately and tightly hold the block onto your "T" section. You can then take a hinge and perfectly center it on the guide block and drill two holes exactly to match the where the screw holes are on the hinge. I actually drilled the two holes oversize, and placed aluminum tubes in them to protect the guide block from getting enlarged by the drill bit. You can then position this block on the "T" section of the stabilizer where you want to put your hinge, and it will be very accurately placed. Method #1 works very well to mark the hinge locations, and then use a drill press BEFORE assembling the stabilizer or control surface. If you're like me, and build it all before you think to install the hinges, then some combination of these two methods works, using a hand drill later. I hope this all makes sense, and works for you, if you decide to try it. I'll try to remember to take a digipic sometime.Gary MeadowsSpring, TX________________________________________________________________________________
Chris, Here is what I found for the problem of locating the tail hinges. I'm using Vi Kapler hinges on my Piet, but this would apply to any of them. I took a long (4') rod that was 3/16" diameter, and placed sll three hinges one on side on it. This way you can make sure that your hinges are all in perfect alignment and won't bind any when you install them. While the hinges are on this rod, you can mark where you need to place them. It's one of two techniques that's worked very well for me.My #2 idea for placing the hinges is to make a guide block. To do this, take a piece of 1" wide stock about 2" long, same as the longeron material and glue two plates of 1/16" x2" x 1 1/4" plywood on either side.This will give you a block of wood with two outside plates sticking down that will give you a way to accurately and tightly hold the block onto your "T" section. You can then take a hinge and perfectly center it on the guide block and drill two holes exactly to match the where the screw holes are on the hinge. I actually drilled the two holes oversize, and placed aluminum tubes in them to protect the guide block from getting enlarged by the drill bit. You can then position this block on the "T" section of the stabilizer where you want to put your hinge, and it will be very accurately placed. Method #1 works very well to mark the hinge locations, and then use a drill press BEFORE assembling the stabilizer or control surface. If you're like me, and build it all before you think to install the hinges, then some combination of these two methods works, using a hand drill later. I hope this all makes sense, and works for you, if you decide to try it. I'll try to remember to take a digipic sometime.Gary MeadowsSpring, TX________________________________________________________________________________
Re: Pietenpol-List: More tail hinge questions
Original Posted By: Jim Ivey
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: More tail hinge questions________________________________________________________________________________Date: Tue, 14 Nov 2000 09:57:44 -0700
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: More tail hinge questions________________________________________________________________________________Date: Tue, 14 Nov 2000 09:57:44 -0700
Re: Pietenpol-List: More tail hinge questions
Original Posted By: Chris Tracy
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: More tail hinge questions
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: More tail hinge questions