Pietenpol-List: Cutting plywood

matronics · Post by **matronics** » Sat Jan 17, 2004 10:35 am

Original Posted By: "walt evans"
I just got the new issue of the BPA newsletter. There is a Classified ad for amodel A engine with fresh overhaul and conversion including prop hub. It islisted for $950/offer. Sounds like a deal. Contact Karl 765-532-4864 or 815-459-7902________________________________________________________________________________

matronics · Post by **matronics** » Sat Jan 17, 2004 10:51 am

Original Posted By: dpaul
Dave,I did all my wood cutting with a 10" Delta bandsaw. Always a smooth beautifulcut.walt evansNX140DL ----- Original Message -----

matronics · Post by **matronics** » Sat Jan 17, 2004 10:52 am

Original Posted By: BARNSTMR(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Cutting plywoodTry a fine toothed bandsaw________________________________________________________________________________

matronics · Post by **matronics** » Sat Jan 17, 2004 10:56 am

Original Posted By: "hjarrett"
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Cutting plywoodScore the top and layer with a knife blade along your cut line if it splinters out it will only go to the scored line.Terry Bowdenph (254) 715-4773fax (254) 853-3805________________________________________________________________________________

matronics · Post by **matronics** » Sat Jan 17, 2004 11:12 am

Original Posted By: dpaul
If you are in a place in the work where you absolutely, positively have got tohave a perfect cut, just lay a scrap piece of wood over and under the piece youwant the smooth cut on. Clamp them together and cut through all three at once.The splits and tears will be in the outer pieces and the center one willbe perfect. This works really well when doing things like cutting holes for instruments.You can use almost anything for the outer pieces, like press board,cheap ply or even tempered masonite. Just make sure the three are clampedtogether so the outer pieces take the damage.Hank J ----- Original Message -----

matronics · Post by **matronics** » Sat Jan 17, 2004 11:31 am

Original Posted By: Kip and Beth Gardner
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Cutting plywoodIn a message dated 1/17/04 10:18:57 AM Central Standard Time, dpaul(at)fidnet.com writes:>I've used masking tape on the top of the plywood, if you're using a circular saw, or on the bottom if you're using a table saw. Then put your line on the masking tape, or use one edge of the masking tape for your line, and cut as you normally would. You can streach the tape between your marks, and it makesa good straight line, eliminating the step of laying a straight edge on, and marking it with a pencil. The tape keeps the saw teeth from pulling the splinters up.Chuck G.________________________________________________________________________________Date: Sat, 17 Jan 2004 12:48:29 -0500

matronics · Post by **matronics** » Sat Jan 17, 2004 12:23 pm

Original Posted By: "Richard Navratil"
Listers, Does anyone have a suggestion as to how to cut plywood without pulling up thetop layer of ply? Even with new plywood cutting blades I tend to leave arough edge. I'm ready to make a cut in the rear seat back so it can be hingedfor inspection access. I would hate to leave a rough or "over sanded" appearancein a nice looking piece of plywood. Dave in Missouri________________________________________________________________________________

matronics · Post by **matronics** » Sat Jan 17, 2004 12:54 pm

Original Posted By: dpaul
Dave, Run a piece of masking tape along the cut line, where the teeth of theblade will leave the wood. If you cut on a tablesaw it would be the bottom ofthe wood. The tape keeps the edge from splintering.Kent ----- Original Message -----

matronics · Post by **matronics** » Sat Jan 17, 2004 11:44 pm

Original Posted By: Clif Dawson

matronics · Post by **matronics** » Mon Jan 19, 2004 12:59 pm

Original Posted By: Rick Holland
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Cutting plywoodWhat is a FLY CUTTER?GregDelaware________________________________________________________________________________Date: Mon, 19 Jan 2004 13:47:42 -0700

matronics · Post by **matronics** » Mon Jan 19, 2004 3:01 pm

Original Posted By: Gnwac(at)cs.com
Here is one pic I found on the net. It's adjustable for hole size. The BIG trickfor a good hole is to cut about half way thru on one side and turn wood overto finish. This way no raggid edgeswalt evansNX140DL ----- Original Message -----

matronics · Post by **matronics** » Mon Jan 19, 2004 6:30 pm

Original Posted By: Richard Schreiber

matronics · Post by **matronics** » Tue Jan 20, 2004 12:26 am

Original Posted By: Clif Dawson
Two rules of fly cutting.Never use it in anything BUT a drill press.Never hold the item being flycut in your hand. It MUST be clamped to the drillpress table and you have one hand on the downfeed and the other poised over theoff switch. That way you never have to look away from the work until afterthe drill press is shut off.Chris Bobkawho drove his USMC aviator buddy to the hospital for 30+ stiches in his palm afterhe violated rule 2.chris bobka ----- Original Message -----

matronics · Post by **matronics** » Tue Jan 20, 2004 4:59 am

Original Posted By: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
I guess I got off lucky - I only had 14 stitches in my thumb after violatingrule #2. Be VERY careful as the cutter finishes piercing the metal. Atthat point it can have a tendency to "bite" into the work piece and can pullit out of your hand over even out of the clamps holding it to the bench ifyou are not careful. I consider the fly cutter to be one of the mostdangerous tools in the shop. Be sure there is somebody home who can driveyou to the hospital while you are using it. Seriously.Jack-----Original Message-----

matronics · Post by **matronics** » Tue Jan 20, 2004 7:00 am

Original Posted By: Michael D Cuy

matronics · Post by **matronics** » Tue Jan 20, 2004 5:41 pm

Original Posted By: Jack Phillips
I agree with Jack, this type of flycutter is very tricky to use. ( there is alsoa flycutter that's used with milling machines to smooth large sufaces) If youare going to use this, use clamps to secure the work and imagine the area thatthe work would spin in if it started rotating.Then keep all body parts outof that area. Also, make sure that the cutters are tight on the piece. Thereare cutters with tools on both sides. If your going to use one, this type is bestas the cut is balanced. I believe harbor frieght carries that type.Please use with caution.Carl ----- Original Message -----

matronics · Post by **matronics** » Tue Jan 20, 2004 6:39 pm

Original Posted By: Christian Bobka
Chris, Another rule for using the fly cutter, feed it into the material SLOWLY.Alex Sloan ----- Original Message -----

matronics · Post by **matronics** » Tue Jan 20, 2004 7:15 pm

Original Posted By: Carl Loar
Carl,The only accident I have witnesse was with one of those double cutting fly cutterswith cutters on both sides. They scare me. I have not seen any one mentionwhere to buy the fly cutters..Sears has two sizes to offer. They do not callthem fly cutters. Cannot recall their designation for them. My advice for any one using one, be sure the work is clamped down tightly and thereis clerance for the tool on all sides. To get an acurate hole cut I foundit best to use a piece of scrap to use to make a small cut then measure thediameter to see if it is what is desired. If the work piece is not clamped securely chatter is a possibility and the toolwill not cut as you want.Alex Sloan ----- Original Message -----

matronics · Post by **matronics** » Sat Jan 24, 2004 12:07 pm

Original Posted By: dave rowe

matronics · Post by **matronics** » Tue Feb 17, 2004 11:21 am

Original Posted By: Clif Dawson
Pieters,I bought a saw for cutting plywood that goes through like a knife through hot butter.It is a pull saw. I bought it at Lowe's. The name is Shark Saw and theyhave or can get replacement blades. The blade I have is 19 TPI. I lay iton the line to cut, apply no pressure, just the weight of the saw and PULL itthrough the line. I have made many cuts on the 1/16" plywood with no splintering.Only time it wanted to flake off was at the end of a cut with a long cutand no support under the unsupported piece.The saw comes with a protective sheath for the teeth. Great tool. Just wantedto share this with the group.Alex Sloan ----- Original Message -----

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