Original Posted By: "Dan Loegering"
Pietenpol-List: Glue question
RE: Pietenpol-List: Glue question
Original Posted By: Galen Hutcheson
Dan, I went for the smaller bottles, it makes it easier to handle andkeeps it fresh.Jack Textor________________________________________________________________________________Date: Wed, 2 Mar 2005 14:09:51 -0800 (PST)
Dan, I went for the smaller bottles, it makes it easier to handle andkeeps it fresh.Jack Textor________________________________________________________________________________Date: Wed, 2 Mar 2005 14:09:51 -0800 (PST)
Re: Pietenpol-List: Glue question
Original Posted By: Rcaprd(at)aol.com
Dan,I looked at prices and it was $25.00 for a quart or $75.00 for the gallon. Thatseemed like a good saving so I went with the gallon.. Trouble was, it camein two half gallon containers. Pouring from them to measure small quantitieswas a pain. I have since ordered a quart and it comes in two pint containers.Much better to pour and measure from. Food for thought.Alex Sloan -------------- Original message -------------- > > > Getting ready to purchase some wood and start cutting. I have decided to start> on the wing ribs as my first project and was wondering if anyone out there hasa > rough guestimate on how much T-88 I should start out with? Would a quart kit> suffice, or should I go for the 1/2 gallon right off the bat... Now just > waiting for the plans to show up! > > Dan Loegering > Fargo, ND > > > > > > > > Dan,I looked at prices and it was $25.00 for a quart or $75.00 for the gallon.That seemed like a good saving so I went with the gallon.. Troublewas, it came in two half gallon containers. Pouring from them to measuresmall quantities was a pain. I have since ordered a quart and it comesin two pint containers. Much better to pour and measure from. Food for thought.Alex Sloan ________________________________________________________________________________
Dan,I looked at prices and it was $25.00 for a quart or $75.00 for the gallon. Thatseemed like a good saving so I went with the gallon.. Trouble was, it camein two half gallon containers. Pouring from them to measure small quantitieswas a pain. I have since ordered a quart and it comes in two pint containers.Much better to pour and measure from. Food for thought.Alex Sloan -------------- Original message -------------- > > > Getting ready to purchase some wood and start cutting. I have decided to start> on the wing ribs as my first project and was wondering if anyone out there hasa > rough guestimate on how much T-88 I should start out with? Would a quart kit> suffice, or should I go for the 1/2 gallon right off the bat... Now just > waiting for the plans to show up! > > Dan Loegering > Fargo, ND > > > > > > > > Dan,I looked at prices and it was $25.00 for a quart or $75.00 for the gallon.That seemed like a good saving so I went with the gallon.. Troublewas, it came in two half gallon containers. Pouring from them to measuresmall quantities was a pain. I have since ordered a quart and it comesin two pint containers. Much better to pour and measure from. Food for thought.Alex Sloan ________________________________________________________________________________
Re: Pietenpol-List: Glue question
Original Posted By: N321TX(at)wmconnect.com
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Glue questionI have found that small plastic squeeze bottles (4 to 8 oz?) work very well. The kind I use have a snap-on cap that is attached to the bottle so you can't lose it.I invested in a small digital scale (iBal 201) and mix the West System epoxy by weight. These scales cost about $100, are used by ammo reloaders, and weigh to .01 gram. They have a capacity of 200 grams. I typically only use 5to 10 grams. Just put in the resin, get the weight, multiply by 1.2, and addhardener up to that value. Its very accurate and repeatable for small amounts. (I can't help it if I'm an engineer!)BTW epoxy has a very long shelf life. Especially if you keep it sealed in the can. By using the squeeze bottles, you don't have to open the can very often.Dan HopperWalton, IN________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Glue questionI have found that small plastic squeeze bottles (4 to 8 oz?) work very well. The kind I use have a snap-on cap that is attached to the bottle so you can't lose it.I invested in a small digital scale (iBal 201) and mix the West System epoxy by weight. These scales cost about $100, are used by ammo reloaders, and weigh to .01 gram. They have a capacity of 200 grams. I typically only use 5to 10 grams. Just put in the resin, get the weight, multiply by 1.2, and addhardener up to that value. Its very accurate and repeatable for small amounts. (I can't help it if I'm an engineer!)BTW epoxy has a very long shelf life. Especially if you keep it sealed in the can. By using the squeeze bottles, you don't have to open the can very often.Dan HopperWalton, IN________________________________________________________________________________
Re: Pietenpol-List: Glue question
Original Posted By: "Hodgson, Mark O"
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Safety? Fiberglass gas tanks & Static ElectricityI've successfully dissipated and prevented static electricity in photographic labs for many years by mixing Downey Fabric Softener to water at a 50/50 mix, and then spraying carpeted areas in and around the lab. Here in the Southwest, on a cold-dry winter day, we can darned near arc weld with static afterwalking around on a dry surface and many rolls of films have been ruined when spooling film out of cassette in a darkroom. The static can bee seen on the filmafter development. The Downey/water method nearly eliminates the ionic charge,thus the reason your socks don't cling after coming out of the dryer when treated with Downey. (Ask any woman who wears nylon stockings... Downey is a muston man-made textiles.)When fueling my Cherokee in the boondocks, I've also used my "formula" for spraying down the surface of the wings, gas caps, my shoes and the area where Istand when transferring the gas, prior to fueling an airplane with plastic cans. (The cans are sprayed before fueling as well and allowed a minute or so todry... The back of the vehicle is also sprayed before loading a plastic can! Try gassing an airplane at the landing strip in/at Wall Drug Store in South Dakota... ain't gonna happen unless you go into town for mogas. Also, Custer'sLast Stand! No gas at the field, but a convenience store 1 mile away...Sorry, but sometimes remote fueling is an evil necessity for us who live and fly off of fields not having a fuel source, such as a ranch or in places in the Dakotas That's why I always carried my small spray bottle of Downy/Water inmy airplane.I'm more concerned about fiberglass gas tanks in my Pietenpol though. Fiberglass makes for a great attractant for static electricity! I wonder if thereis an additional way to enhance safety when adding gas to a wooden airplane having fiberglass tanks? I'm about to build my fiberglass gas tank and I thoughtof adding a small copper wire to the aluminum filler neck, then to the weldableflange, running the wire down to a low spot on the fuselage where I could connect to a ground source (probably a small copper shaft driven into the ground...)Obviously it's wise to AVOID using plastic cans for fueling an airplane, but sometimes we don't have a choice. Does anybody have any information about grounding tips and way to avoid static when fueling a wooden airplane having a fiberglass tank in the boondocks?Thanks,Sterling BrooksKnot-2-Shabby Airport & Texas Longhorn Cattle Ranch________________________________________________________________________________Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Glue questionDate: Thu, 3 Mar 2005 10:59:56 -0500
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Safety? Fiberglass gas tanks & Static ElectricityI've successfully dissipated and prevented static electricity in photographic labs for many years by mixing Downey Fabric Softener to water at a 50/50 mix, and then spraying carpeted areas in and around the lab. Here in the Southwest, on a cold-dry winter day, we can darned near arc weld with static afterwalking around on a dry surface and many rolls of films have been ruined when spooling film out of cassette in a darkroom. The static can bee seen on the filmafter development. The Downey/water method nearly eliminates the ionic charge,thus the reason your socks don't cling after coming out of the dryer when treated with Downey. (Ask any woman who wears nylon stockings... Downey is a muston man-made textiles.)When fueling my Cherokee in the boondocks, I've also used my "formula" for spraying down the surface of the wings, gas caps, my shoes and the area where Istand when transferring the gas, prior to fueling an airplane with plastic cans. (The cans are sprayed before fueling as well and allowed a minute or so todry... The back of the vehicle is also sprayed before loading a plastic can! Try gassing an airplane at the landing strip in/at Wall Drug Store in South Dakota... ain't gonna happen unless you go into town for mogas. Also, Custer'sLast Stand! No gas at the field, but a convenience store 1 mile away...Sorry, but sometimes remote fueling is an evil necessity for us who live and fly off of fields not having a fuel source, such as a ranch or in places in the Dakotas That's why I always carried my small spray bottle of Downy/Water inmy airplane.I'm more concerned about fiberglass gas tanks in my Pietenpol though. Fiberglass makes for a great attractant for static electricity! I wonder if thereis an additional way to enhance safety when adding gas to a wooden airplane having fiberglass tanks? I'm about to build my fiberglass gas tank and I thoughtof adding a small copper wire to the aluminum filler neck, then to the weldableflange, running the wire down to a low spot on the fuselage where I could connect to a ground source (probably a small copper shaft driven into the ground...)Obviously it's wise to AVOID using plastic cans for fueling an airplane, but sometimes we don't have a choice. Does anybody have any information about grounding tips and way to avoid static when fueling a wooden airplane having a fiberglass tank in the boondocks?Thanks,Sterling BrooksKnot-2-Shabby Airport & Texas Longhorn Cattle Ranch________________________________________________________________________________Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Glue questionDate: Thu, 3 Mar 2005 10:59:56 -0500
Re: Pietenpol-List: Glue question
Original Posted By: Hopperdhh(at)aol.com
Being into WW-I aircraft and guns as well as getting on the web on several othertopics (the kinds of things that draw engineers) you should be forewarned thatthe ATF and FBI really DO watch for key words in e-mailed and when orderingmaterials. One that draws attention really fast is precision scales (great formixing explosives and drugs). Don't be surprised or upset if you find yourselfanswering a knock at the door from someone yelling "ATF!, open the door!"and by all means remember, it is NOT a delivery! ;-)Hank ----- Original Message -----
Being into WW-I aircraft and guns as well as getting on the web on several othertopics (the kinds of things that draw engineers) you should be forewarned thatthe ATF and FBI really DO watch for key words in e-mailed and when orderingmaterials. One that draws attention really fast is precision scales (great formixing explosives and drugs). Don't be surprised or upset if you find yourselfanswering a knock at the door from someone yelling "ATF!, open the door!"and by all means remember, it is NOT a delivery! ;-)Hank ----- Original Message -----
Re: Pietenpol-List: Safety? Fiberglass gas tanks & Static Electricity
Original Posted By: N321TX(at)wmconnect.com
Why not add a piece of stainless welding rod to your glass tank when you buildit running from the low point to a spot a couple of inches from the filler capso it would come through the covering? Label the end of the wire as the tankground and clip to the protruding wire when you refuel (BEFORE you remove thecap!).On the plastic fuel cans I designed a grounding kit a few years ago that used anR/C model fuel stopper with a piece of stainless welding rod through it thatwas put through a hole drilled in the plastic can and tightened. The rubberstopper expands in the hole when you tighten the screw and the SS wire is submergedin the fuel. If the wire is bent so it goes close to the outlet hole itstays submerged when pouring. Just ground the can to the fuel tank ground andon to "earth" and you should be all set.Hank J ----- Original Message -----
Why not add a piece of stainless welding rod to your glass tank when you buildit running from the low point to a spot a couple of inches from the filler capso it would come through the covering? Label the end of the wire as the tankground and clip to the protruding wire when you refuel (BEFORE you remove thecap!).On the plastic fuel cans I designed a grounding kit a few years ago that used anR/C model fuel stopper with a piece of stainless welding rod through it thatwas put through a hole drilled in the plastic can and tightened. The rubberstopper expands in the hole when you tighten the screw and the SS wire is submergedin the fuel. If the wire is bent so it goes close to the outlet hole itstays submerged when pouring. Just ground the can to the fuel tank ground andon to "earth" and you should be all set.Hank J ----- Original Message -----
Re: Pietenpol-List: continental engine/carburetor
Original Posted By: "gbowen(at)ptialaska.net"
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: continental engine/carburetorI dare not suggest a simple test like removing your tank filler cap and then try reving up that 65. Might surprise you.Corky in Louisiana enjoying the slower pace of life________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: continental engine/carburetorI dare not suggest a simple test like removing your tank filler cap and then try reving up that 65. Might surprise you.Corky in Louisiana enjoying the slower pace of life________________________________________________________________________________
Re: Pietenpol-List: Glue question
Original Posted By: Isablcorky(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Glue questionIn a message dated 3/6/2005 9:44:50 AM Central Standard Time, hjarrett(at)hroads.net writes:Just DON'T make strafing runs at the local airport unless the FAA knows about it first! Same goes for smoke systems in the exhaust.True...Very True !!On Friday evening, I was doing some 'Smoke Runs' around Cook Airfield, and someone called the Fire Department, reporting a plane that was smoking, and going to crash. Luckily, two airport guys were there when the Fire Departmentshowed up, and they pointed up at my plane as I flew past, and let them know about my smoke system. I guess I'll have to let the Fire Department know whenI'll be 'Blowing Smoke' !!Chuck G.________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Glue questionIn a message dated 3/6/2005 9:44:50 AM Central Standard Time, hjarrett(at)hroads.net writes:Just DON'T make strafing runs at the local airport unless the FAA knows about it first! Same goes for smoke systems in the exhaust.True...Very True !!On Friday evening, I was doing some 'Smoke Runs' around Cook Airfield, and someone called the Fire Department, reporting a plane that was smoking, and going to crash. Luckily, two airport guys were there when the Fire Departmentshowed up, and they pointed up at my plane as I flew past, and let them know about my smoke system. I guess I'll have to let the Fire Department know whenI'll be 'Blowing Smoke' !!Chuck G.________________________________________________________________________________