Original Posted By: Rcaprd(at)aol.com
Subject: Pietenpol-List: distance between front wheelsI have been reading for quite a while but this is my first active participation. I am building a wooden long fuselage with a Corvair engine and have a question about the distance between the front wheels. My plans call for 56 inches to the center of the wheels. This seems a bit narrow as my Cessna 150 has 80 inches between wheels.Regards,gary martens CCARoom 222 Agriculture BuildingPlant Science DepartmentUniversity of ManitobaR3T 2N2(204) 474-8227gary_martens(at)umanitoba.ca________________________________________________________________________________
Pietenpol-List: distance between front wheels
Re: Pietenpol-List: distance between front wheels
Original Posted By: Dave Case
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: distance between front wheelsGary,It's great to see you posted your first question. There are a lot of lurkersout there, and I'm sure lots of questions. My plane is the Short Fuselage, Split axle gear (I assume you're building thesplit axle gear), spring struts (originally bunji struts), and Cont. A65engine. My wheels are right at the 56" measurement called out in the plans, andit handles just fine on the ground. Just remember you have 2=BA of camber whenthere is no weight on wheels, and even with the weight on the gear, you stillshould see the camber. The plans show the wheels perpendicular to the ground,not really what it should look like when complete, with the weight on thegear. The gear should be built with 0=BA toe in, in other words, parallel withthecenterline. If you should err on this dimension, err to the side of toe in,but get it as close as possible to 0=BA toe in. The C150 is a side by side, soyou should really compare it to something more in the line of a J3 Cub...butthe Cub is probably even a little wider gear than the Piet, because the fuse isa little wider.Chuck G.NX770CG________________________________________________________________________________Date: Mon, 19 Sep 2005 15:30:57 -0700
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: distance between front wheelsGary,It's great to see you posted your first question. There are a lot of lurkersout there, and I'm sure lots of questions. My plane is the Short Fuselage, Split axle gear (I assume you're building thesplit axle gear), spring struts (originally bunji struts), and Cont. A65engine. My wheels are right at the 56" measurement called out in the plans, andit handles just fine on the ground. Just remember you have 2=BA of camber whenthere is no weight on wheels, and even with the weight on the gear, you stillshould see the camber. The plans show the wheels perpendicular to the ground,not really what it should look like when complete, with the weight on thegear. The gear should be built with 0=BA toe in, in other words, parallel withthecenterline. If you should err on this dimension, err to the side of toe in,but get it as close as possible to 0=BA toe in. The C150 is a side by side, soyou should really compare it to something more in the line of a J3 Cub...butthe Cub is probably even a little wider gear than the Piet, because the fuse isa little wider.Chuck G.NX770CG________________________________________________________________________________Date: Mon, 19 Sep 2005 15:30:57 -0700
> Pietenpol-List: TRANSFER PUNCHES
Original Posted By: Galen Hutcheson
Re: Pietenpol-List: New Subscriber, Wing Rib Jig Questions.
Original Posted By: Rick Holland
Re: Pietenpol-List: TRANSFER PUNCHES
Original Posted By: "Phillips, Jack"
Another Harbor Freight tool which everyone should have and is cheap andworth its weight in gold is a "vise brake". It comes in several sizes from4" up to 8" and has magnetic jaws which stick to the inside of the jaws ofyour vise (not beer drinking or women chasing type of vice). Any way, ituses the vise to make a perfect 90' bend or less or slightly more in lightguage sheet metal. Only drawback is it is only as wide as your vise.Dennis----- Original Message -----
Another Harbor Freight tool which everyone should have and is cheap andworth its weight in gold is a "vise brake". It comes in several sizes from4" up to 8" and has magnetic jaws which stick to the inside of the jaws ofyour vise (not beer drinking or women chasing type of vice). Any way, ituses the vise to make a perfect 90' bend or less or slightly more in lightguage sheet metal. Only drawback is it is only as wide as your vise.Dennis----- Original Message -----
Pietenpol-List: Re: DF weight, latex paint...
Original Posted By: "Jim Markle"
I have been following this discussion with interest. Does anyone know of aplane being covered with Stitts process through silver and then latex as thefinal coat? Are they compatible?I bought my latex recently and thought I was going to have to get "tough"with the sales person because she first started out by telling me that Ishould go to an automotive paint supply store because the latex was justgoing to peel off. After reading the label about how tenacious theirpremium paint was and I smiled and told her I would take that chance, shethen told me the company would not allow her to sell it to me to use on anairplane. I smiled and showed her the color I wanted. She then said shedidn't think they had any of the correct base. I smiled and asked if shewould mind looking as I only needed one gallon. She finally gave in andmixed the color. Whew...TedTrying to finish a Piet while dodging hurricanes________________________________________________________________________________
I have been following this discussion with interest. Does anyone know of aplane being covered with Stitts process through silver and then latex as thefinal coat? Are they compatible?I bought my latex recently and thought I was going to have to get "tough"with the sales person because she first started out by telling me that Ishould go to an automotive paint supply store because the latex was justgoing to peel off. After reading the label about how tenacious theirpremium paint was and I smiled and told her I would take that chance, shethen told me the company would not allow her to sell it to me to use on anairplane. I smiled and showed her the color I wanted. She then said shedidn't think they had any of the correct base. I smiled and asked if shewould mind looking as I only needed one gallon. She finally gave in andmixed the color. Whew...TedTrying to finish a Piet while dodging hurricanes________________________________________________________________________________
Re: Pietenpol-List: TRANSFER PUNCHES
Original Posted By: Dennis Engelkenjohn
I did some .090 but first ground down the point of the anvil (a LOT!). Can't seeit in the attached (small) picture but that's actually a pretty dull point.I've had the same good experience with this tool as others have mentioned here.Really a neat addition to your workshop. Get the largest vise you can affordand a vise break to match.Jim MarklePlano, TX ----- Original Message -----
I did some .090 but first ground down the point of the anvil (a LOT!). Can't seeit in the attached (small) picture but that's actually a pretty dull point.I've had the same good experience with this tool as others have mentioned here.Really a neat addition to your workshop. Get the largest vise you can affordand a vise break to match.Jim MarklePlano, TX ----- Original Message -----
Re: Pietenpol-List: Re: DF weight, latex paint...
Original Posted By: "Ted Brousseau"
I put a two part epoxy latex available at marine supply stores on my Osprey.Spent about 6 months stripping this off after it peeled in just one Alaskanwinter, sitting outside. Personally I'd recommend sticking with solventbased paints on Stits. The Stits system is based on PVC, ergo the reasonit's hyped as being flame retardant. I don't think you'll get any type ofphysical bond with the Stits because it's slick, and without solvent youwon't get any type of chemical bond. But to each their own pain andexperimentation.Gordon Bowen -Homer AlaskaCozy IV N64CYOsprey II N64SYPietenpol N-1033B" There are no passengers on spaceship Earth, we are all crew", McLuhan----- Original Message -----
I put a two part epoxy latex available at marine supply stores on my Osprey.Spent about 6 months stripping this off after it peeled in just one Alaskanwinter, sitting outside. Personally I'd recommend sticking with solventbased paints on Stits. The Stits system is based on PVC, ergo the reasonit's hyped as being flame retardant. I don't think you'll get any type ofphysical bond with the Stits because it's slick, and without solvent youwon't get any type of chemical bond. But to each their own pain andexperimentation.Gordon Bowen -Homer AlaskaCozy IV N64CYOsprey II N64SYPietenpol N-1033B" There are no passengers on spaceship Earth, we are all crew", McLuhan----- Original Message -----
Re: Pietenpol-List: Re: DF weight, latex paint...
Original Posted By: "Gordon Bowen"
Ted, I don't feel adequate to weigh in most of the discussions, but I do have a modified Piet that was done in silver and I painted on it with latex paint. I have had one place that chipped off, but I also covered the latex with a polytheurene coating to keep it from showing every finger and hand print. The latex is too soft for me but the clear coating seems to really solidify the paint. It looks ok and seems to wear of over the silver. I did have to clean the silver thoroughly before applying the paint.Doyle Combs> >>>> ________________________________________________________________________________
Ted, I don't feel adequate to weigh in most of the discussions, but I do have a modified Piet that was done in silver and I painted on it with latex paint. I have had one place that chipped off, but I also covered the latex with a polytheurene coating to keep it from showing every finger and hand print. The latex is too soft for me but the clear coating seems to really solidify the paint. It looks ok and seems to wear of over the silver. I did have to clean the silver thoroughly before applying the paint.Doyle Combs> >>>> ________________________________________________________________________________
Re: Pietenpol-List: TRANSFER PUNCHES
Original Posted By: Rick Holland
I wish I could tell you that, I don't have the box anymore. I haven't tried tobend anything that thick because of the sharp point of the anvil. I guess I couldgrind it down though. It would seem if you had a strong 6" vise you couldbend .090. I used it for the thinner fittings though.Dennis ----- Original Message -----
I wish I could tell you that, I don't have the box anymore. I haven't tried tobend anything that thick because of the sharp point of the anvil. I guess I couldgrind it down though. It would seem if you had a strong 6" vise you couldbend .090. I used it for the thinner fittings though.Dennis ----- Original Message -----
Pietenpol-List: Re: DF weight, latex paint...
Original Posted By: Gary Gower
Re: Pietenpol-List: Re: DF weight, latex paint...
Original Posted By: Clif Dawson
RE: Pietenpol-List: New Subscriber, Wing Rib Jig Questions.
Original Posted By: "Phillips, Jack"
RE: Pietenpol-List: New Subscriber, Wing Rib Jig Questions.
Original Posted By: "Egan, John"
RE: Pietenpol-List: New Subscriber, Wing Rib Jig Questions.
Original Posted By: "Phillips, Jack"
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: New Subscriber, Wing Rib Jig Questions.Based on what everyone else is saying - and what I believe to be true - using thefull size rib dwg shouldn't be a problem, so I wouldn't worry too much aboutgetting lines drawn perfectly straight, except as a reference... To check mine,I had made an Autocad dwg and compared it to the full size dwg and therewas so little variance I went with the full size dwg just to make life simpler.Taped it down the the table on one end, stretched it nice and tight, tapedit to the other... Then carefully tape it down all around making sure it's completelyflat. Then I taped wax paper over the whole thing and used jig blocksscrewed into the table. It helps to use small scraps of wax paper under theglue joints of each rib but the whole thing is covered so if there are any leaksyou won't ruin the full size dwg. I used a wallpaper steamer fit into a 4" round duct to steam the rib caps. Madea bending jig out of a 4 x 4 with the nose rib shape cut into it - slide thesteamed ribs in, and clamp them down overnight. If you want I can send you asketch.Tom B.________________________________________________________________________________Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: New Subscriber, Wing Rib Jig Questions.Date: Tue, 20 Sep 2005 09:40:10 -0400
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: New Subscriber, Wing Rib Jig Questions.Based on what everyone else is saying - and what I believe to be true - using thefull size rib dwg shouldn't be a problem, so I wouldn't worry too much aboutgetting lines drawn perfectly straight, except as a reference... To check mine,I had made an Autocad dwg and compared it to the full size dwg and therewas so little variance I went with the full size dwg just to make life simpler.Taped it down the the table on one end, stretched it nice and tight, tapedit to the other... Then carefully tape it down all around making sure it's completelyflat. Then I taped wax paper over the whole thing and used jig blocksscrewed into the table. It helps to use small scraps of wax paper under theglue joints of each rib but the whole thing is covered so if there are any leaksyou won't ruin the full size dwg. I used a wallpaper steamer fit into a 4" round duct to steam the rib caps. Madea bending jig out of a 4 x 4 with the nose rib shape cut into it - slide thesteamed ribs in, and clamp them down overnight. If you want I can send you asketch.Tom B.________________________________________________________________________________Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: New Subscriber, Wing Rib Jig Questions.Date: Tue, 20 Sep 2005 09:40:10 -0400
RE: Pietenpol-List: New Subscriber, Wing Rib Jig Questions.
Original Posted By: "Nick Harris"
So I should cancel my "rib jig burning party"? I ended up making extraribs for the following reasons: I selected the best ones to use tobuild with, and I used others for destructive testing of the joints (Ibroke them). I still have a few left that I suppose are good forspares. Builder report: Have wings wood work 95% complete, have leadingedge plywood on and sanded, trailing edges on and sanded, need to flipwing over to finish bottom surface of ailerons and any 1/16" plywoodpatches on the bottom surface. Thank you all who helped me through mywing building summer. I would not have completed these as fast withoutyour help.This e-mail is intended for the use of the addressee(s) only and may contain privileged,confidential, or proprietary information that is exempt from disclosureunder law. If you have received this message in error, please inform us promptlyby reply e-mail, then delete the e-mail and destroy any printed copy. Thank you.==============================================================================________________________________________________________________________________
So I should cancel my "rib jig burning party"? I ended up making extraribs for the following reasons: I selected the best ones to use tobuild with, and I used others for destructive testing of the joints (Ibroke them). I still have a few left that I suppose are good forspares. Builder report: Have wings wood work 95% complete, have leadingedge plywood on and sanded, trailing edges on and sanded, need to flipwing over to finish bottom surface of ailerons and any 1/16" plywoodpatches on the bottom surface. Thank you all who helped me through mywing building summer. I would not have completed these as fast withoutyour help.This e-mail is intended for the use of the addressee(s) only and may contain privileged,confidential, or proprietary information that is exempt from disclosureunder law. If you have received this message in error, please inform us promptlyby reply e-mail, then delete the e-mail and destroy any printed copy. Thank you.==============================================================================________________________________________________________________________________
RE: Pietenpol-List: New Subscriber, Wing Rib Jig Questions.
Original Posted By: "Bill Church"
Hi all, The material that I found for the tail pieces is only 3/4 thick, so whenbuilding the main beams I would like to build the shape with a 1 X 1/4 pieceand a 7/8 X 5/8 piece. I would then put a 1/8 deep X 5/8 wide slot in the1/4 piece then glue the two pieces together. The only problem I see withthis is when I go to put the 1/8 plywood stiffener for the hinges in, I willbe cutting all the way through the 1/4 pieces in the middle of the boardwhere the 1/8 x 5/8 slots are. I hope I explained this well enough to getsome good answers. If the glue joint is supposed to be stronger than thewood then this should not be a problem. Could aluminum be used for thestiffeners?ThanksNick H ________________________________________________________________________________Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: New Subscriber, Wing Rib Jig Questions.Date: Tue, 20 Sep 2005 12:30:20 -0400
Hi all, The material that I found for the tail pieces is only 3/4 thick, so whenbuilding the main beams I would like to build the shape with a 1 X 1/4 pieceand a 7/8 X 5/8 piece. I would then put a 1/8 deep X 5/8 wide slot in the1/4 piece then glue the two pieces together. The only problem I see withthis is when I go to put the 1/8 plywood stiffener for the hinges in, I willbe cutting all the way through the 1/4 pieces in the middle of the boardwhere the 1/8 x 5/8 slots are. I hope I explained this well enough to getsome good answers. If the glue joint is supposed to be stronger than thewood then this should not be a problem. Could aluminum be used for thestiffeners?ThanksNick H ________________________________________________________________________________Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: New Subscriber, Wing Rib Jig Questions.Date: Tue, 20 Sep 2005 12:30:20 -0400
Re: Pietenpol-List: tail main beams
Original Posted By: "Dennis Engelkenjohn"
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: tail main beamsI think I understand what you're saying... I did something similar except withoutslotting the 1/4 piece. I wouldn't bother slotting it - just line it up andglue the pieces together. I tried making this out of one piece and the twopiece version turned out more consistent.As for cutting through the 1/4" piece - not completely sure what you mean, butas you say, the glue is stronger than the wood anyway. My stiffeners (gussets)went on inside the 1/4" piece, then the 1/4" gets sanded to match level of gussets.Hopefully that makes sense.My $0.02Tom B.________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: tail main beamsI think I understand what you're saying... I did something similar except withoutslotting the 1/4 piece. I wouldn't bother slotting it - just line it up andglue the pieces together. I tried making this out of one piece and the twopiece version turned out more consistent.As for cutting through the 1/4" piece - not completely sure what you mean, butas you say, the glue is stronger than the wood anyway. My stiffeners (gussets)went on inside the 1/4" piece, then the 1/4" gets sanded to match level of gussets.Hopefully that makes sense.My $0.02Tom B.________________________________________________________________________________
Re: Pietenpol-List: tail main beams
Original Posted By: Nick Harris
I had Wicks make all the shapes for the tail beams according to plans. Cost like$ 1.60 per linear foot. Saved a lot of work and cutter buying on my part.Dennis ----- Original Message -----
I had Wicks make all the shapes for the tail beams according to plans. Cost like$ 1.60 per linear foot. Saved a lot of work and cutter buying on my part.Dennis ----- Original Message -----
Re: Pietenpol-List: Re: DF weight, latex paint...
Original Posted By: "Ted Brousseau"
Do you mind sharing with us the brand name of the paint?...Carl Vought----- Original Message -----
Do you mind sharing with us the brand name of the paint?...Carl Vought----- Original Message -----