Original Posted By: "Georgia Peach"
No where in the Continental Maintenance And Overhaul Manual can I find torque limitsfor the rod bolt nuts (not even on page 47...) Does anybody know how manyinch pounds for rod bolt nuts?Thanks,Sterling Brooks________________________________________________________________________________
Pietenpol-List: Continental Overhaul
Re: Pietenpol-List: Continental Overhaul
Original Posted By: Georgia Peach
Problem solved. Thanks to John Heath on the Engine-List. ----- Original Message -----
Problem solved. Thanks to John Heath on the Engine-List. ----- Original Message -----
Re: Pietenpol-List: Continental Overhaul
Original Posted By: "Jeff Boatright"
The "engine list" is on the Matronics main website. You'll need to subscribe, just like you have done for the Pietnpol list.One of the subscribers sent me an Adobe PDF file (a Continental Teledyne Service Bulletin, dated 2-2005) showing nearly all the torque limits for every Continental engine made. Are you rebuilding a A-series Continental? If so, you'll find some missing information in the original Continental Maintenance & Overhaul Manual.Sterling BrooksKnot-2-Shabby Airport5TA6, San Antonio Sectional----- Original Message -----
The "engine list" is on the Matronics main website. You'll need to subscribe, just like you have done for the Pietnpol list.One of the subscribers sent me an Adobe PDF file (a Continental Teledyne Service Bulletin, dated 2-2005) showing nearly all the torque limits for every Continental engine made. Are you rebuilding a A-series Continental? If so, you'll find some missing information in the original Continental Maintenance & Overhaul Manual.Sterling BrooksKnot-2-Shabby Airport5TA6, San Antonio Sectional----- Original Message -----
Re: Pietenpol-List: Continental Overhaul
Original Posted By: Jeff Boatright
> Re: Pietenpol-List: Continental Overhaul
Original Posted By: Jeff Boatright
Re: Pietenpol-List: Continental Overhaul
Original Posted By: "Jeff Boatright"
Jeff:Your problem sounds similar to the problems I had with my A-80. I bought a Pietenpol two years ago from a person (scoundrel) in Georgia. It was advertised as having only 5 hours SMOH during a period from 1998 to 2003. When I got home and was doing the annual, I had to disassemble the engine because of oil pressure issues. There was so much rust in the engine, many of the oil journals were totally clogged up the rust particles. It seems that some of the rust that did manage to flow through the engine seemed to have done a job on many of the internal parts. It looked like someone had taken 80 grit sand paper and gone mad on the crankshaft bearings.I don't have an A&P license but my father does (we overhauled my Lycoming 0-320 E2A 4 years ago) and I felt pretty good about working on this smaller Continental... BUT, the Continental manual has some serious gaps and this overhaul hasn't been anywhere as satisfying/enjoyable as my Lycoming. (The Lycoming manual was really, really good compared to the Continental, but I have to save there are some parts of the Continental manual that are better than the Lycoming book...)I'm probably going to make a DVD to address some of the gaps in the Continental manual (and some of the gaps in an old Continental overhaul film I have.) The overhaul film was made in the early 50s and it has some outstanding features, but whoever spliced the film together did it out of sequence and it's a pain to follow and it doesn't address some issues that inexperienced folks like me need to have, in order to be comfortable with the overhaul process.Feel free to contact me later. I might have this DVD done in about 4 to 6 months... Kind of busy at the moment because I am the caregiver for my dad who is in Hospice care at home.My website is www. sterlingbrooks.tv. Been in the film/video business for a long time.----- Original Message -----
Jeff:Your problem sounds similar to the problems I had with my A-80. I bought a Pietenpol two years ago from a person (scoundrel) in Georgia. It was advertised as having only 5 hours SMOH during a period from 1998 to 2003. When I got home and was doing the annual, I had to disassemble the engine because of oil pressure issues. There was so much rust in the engine, many of the oil journals were totally clogged up the rust particles. It seems that some of the rust that did manage to flow through the engine seemed to have done a job on many of the internal parts. It looked like someone had taken 80 grit sand paper and gone mad on the crankshaft bearings.I don't have an A&P license but my father does (we overhauled my Lycoming 0-320 E2A 4 years ago) and I felt pretty good about working on this smaller Continental... BUT, the Continental manual has some serious gaps and this overhaul hasn't been anywhere as satisfying/enjoyable as my Lycoming. (The Lycoming manual was really, really good compared to the Continental, but I have to save there are some parts of the Continental manual that are better than the Lycoming book...)I'm probably going to make a DVD to address some of the gaps in the Continental manual (and some of the gaps in an old Continental overhaul film I have.) The overhaul film was made in the early 50s and it has some outstanding features, but whoever spliced the film together did it out of sequence and it's a pain to follow and it doesn't address some issues that inexperienced folks like me need to have, in order to be comfortable with the overhaul process.Feel free to contact me later. I might have this DVD done in about 4 to 6 months... Kind of busy at the moment because I am the caregiver for my dad who is in Hospice care at home.My website is www. sterlingbrooks.tv. Been in the film/video business for a long time.----- Original Message -----
Re: Pietenpol-List: Continental Overhaul
Original Posted By: "Georgia Peach"
Just curious, what part of Georgia is this peach from?Barry DavisBig Piet Builders----- Original Message -----
Just curious, what part of Georgia is this peach from?Barry DavisBig Piet Builders----- Original Message -----
> Re: Pietenpol-List: Continental Overhaul
Original Posted By: Galen Hutcheson
Re: Re: Pietenpol-List: alternative glues
Original Posted By:> Galen Hutcheson
> We had aplane during the second world war that was called the Moscitoe(not sureof spelling) and it was a wood plane all glued together.The first ones brokeup in mid air but they fixed that problem later with glue that worked.I havenever tried to find out what that glue was but I'm sure with the right guy orgal at the key board it may be found out.I figure that has to be the best gluessince this plane used two engines and was one of the fastest planes aroundfor it's time.Good luck to those who try and let us know when you find out,havefun!
> We had aplane during the second world war that was called the Moscitoe(not sureof spelling) and it was a wood plane all glued together.The first ones brokeup in mid air but they fixed that problem later with glue that worked.I havenever tried to find out what that glue was but I'm sure with the right guy orgal at the key board it may be found out.I figure that has to be the best gluessince this plane used two engines and was one of the fastest planes aroundfor it's time.Good luck to those who try and let us know when you find out,havefun!
Re: Pietenpol-List: Continental Overhaul
Original Posted By: "Barry Davis"
Ringgold, Georgia----- Original Message -----
Ringgold, Georgia----- Original Message -----
>> Re: Pietenpol-List: Continental Overhaul
Original Posted By: HOEVELMANN
Pietenpol-List: Vi Kapler
Original Posted By: "Textor, Jack"
Re: Pietenpol-List: alternative glues
Original Posted By: MICHAEL SILVIUS
Here here, Mike!Alan ----- Original Message -----
Here here, Mike!Alan ----- Original Message -----
Re: Pietenpol-List: alternative glues
Original Posted By: John Hofmann
> To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com> Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: alternative glues> > > The polyurethane glue (Elmer's Ultimate Glue, Gorilla> Glue) must have water to activate the glue. On soft> woods like spruce and Douglas Fir you only need to wet> one side to be glued and you spread a thin film on the> other mating side. If you do use water, the glue will> not activate and will be useless. You use mild> clamping for at least 4 hours. The glue will foam out> from the joint which can be wiped with a dampened> cloth or can be cut off later with a sharp knife. The> most common failure with this glue is not following> the directions to the letter and the glue does not> activate within the joint. I learned this the hard> way. The pieces to be glued need to fit more closely> than is needed for the epoxy glues. I found good wood> penetration when the glue was applied correctly. It> takes a little practice to get a good glue joint. If> two hardwoods (ie. ash) are glued, both mating> surfaces must be wet before applying the glue. It> only takes a very thin film of the glue as the glue> expands. This expansion forces the glue into the> wood. I haven't tried this glue on all types of wood,> so I cannot comment on it's usefulness in these cases.> I think that any builder should test this glue if he> is going to use it on any structural member. In my> opinion, I still feel that the epoxy glues are the> strongest for joints that will have the greatest> stresses. This would be the fuselage and landing gear> members and perhaps the tail feather joints. Others> may have differing opinions, and that is good. By> discusing this topic, we are combining our research> experience.> > Doc (H) > > --- MICHAEL SILVIUS > wrote:> > > Folks:> > FWIW. I have used polyurethane glues on marine> > applications where admittedly it has been exposed to> > harshest of conditions. I have found that it can be> > less than consistent in its performance. I have> > found that it does break down particularly if gluing> > dissimilar woods due to their different expansion> > rates. I have also found that the natural oils in> > Doug Fir, Cherry and Cedar tend to conflict with> > proper adhesion. It does work better if you moisten> > the surfaces to be glued with some water previous to> > applying the glue as you get better penetration and> > quicker drying. That said and given the cost and> > amount of adhesive to be used I figure dollar for> > dollar go with the proven T-88. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > __________________________________ > Access over 1 million songs. Try it free.> http://music.yahoo.com/unlimited/> > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________Date: Wed, 19 Oct 2005 11:39:04 -0500Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: alternative glues
> To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com> Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: alternative glues> > > The polyurethane glue (Elmer's Ultimate Glue, Gorilla> Glue) must have water to activate the glue. On soft> woods like spruce and Douglas Fir you only need to wet> one side to be glued and you spread a thin film on the> other mating side. If you do use water, the glue will> not activate and will be useless. You use mild> clamping for at least 4 hours. The glue will foam out> from the joint which can be wiped with a dampened> cloth or can be cut off later with a sharp knife. The> most common failure with this glue is not following> the directions to the letter and the glue does not> activate within the joint. I learned this the hard> way. The pieces to be glued need to fit more closely> than is needed for the epoxy glues. I found good wood> penetration when the glue was applied correctly. It> takes a little practice to get a good glue joint. If> two hardwoods (ie. ash) are glued, both mating> surfaces must be wet before applying the glue. It> only takes a very thin film of the glue as the glue> expands. This expansion forces the glue into the> wood. I haven't tried this glue on all types of wood,> so I cannot comment on it's usefulness in these cases.> I think that any builder should test this glue if he> is going to use it on any structural member. In my> opinion, I still feel that the epoxy glues are the> strongest for joints that will have the greatest> stresses. This would be the fuselage and landing gear> members and perhaps the tail feather joints. Others> may have differing opinions, and that is good. By> discusing this topic, we are combining our research> experience.> > Doc (H) > > --- MICHAEL SILVIUS > wrote:> > > Folks:> > FWIW. I have used polyurethane glues on marine> > applications where admittedly it has been exposed to> > harshest of conditions. I have found that it can be> > less than consistent in its performance. I have> > found that it does break down particularly if gluing> > dissimilar woods due to their different expansion> > rates. I have also found that the natural oils in> > Doug Fir, Cherry and Cedar tend to conflict with> > proper adhesion. It does work better if you moisten> > the surfaces to be glued with some water previous to> > applying the glue as you get better penetration and> > quicker drying. That said and given the cost and> > amount of adhesive to be used I figure dollar for> > dollar go with the proven T-88. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > __________________________________ > Access over 1 million songs. Try it free.> http://music.yahoo.com/unlimited/> > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________Date: Wed, 19 Oct 2005 11:39:04 -0500Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: alternative glues
>> Re: Pietenpol-List: alternative glues
Original Posted By: "harvey rule"
>> To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com>> Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: alternative glues>> >> >> The polyurethane glue (Elmer's Ultimate Glue, Gorilla>> Glue) must have water to activate the glue. On soft>> woods like spruce and Douglas Fir you only need to wet>> one side to be glued and you spread a thin film on the>> other mating side. If you do use water, the glue will>> not activate and will be useless. You use mild>> clamping for at least 4 hours. The glue will foam out>> from the joint which can be wiped with a dampened>> cloth or can be cut off later with a sharp knife. The>> most common failure with this glue is not following>> the directions to the letter and the glue does not>> activate within the joint. I learned this the hard>> way. The pieces to be glued need to fit more closely>> than is needed for the epoxy glues. I found good wood>> penetration when the glue was applied correctly. It>> takes a little practice to get a good glue joint. If>> two hardwoods (ie. ash) are glued, both mating>> surfaces must be wet before applying the glue. It>> only takes a very thin film of the glue as the glue>> expands. This expansion forces the glue into the>> wood. I haven't tried this glue on all types of wood,>> so I cannot comment on it's usefulness in these cases.>> I think that any builder should test this glue if he>> is going to use it on any structural member. In my>> opinion, I still feel that the epoxy glues are the>> strongest for joints that will have the greatest>> stresses. This would be the fuselage and landing gear>> members and perhaps the tail feather joints. Others>> may have differing opinions, and that is good. By>> discusing this topic, we are combining our research>> experience.>> >> Doc (H) >> >> --- MICHAEL SILVIUS >> wrote:>> >>> Folks:>>> FWIW. I have used polyurethane glues on marine>>> applications where admittedly it has been exposed to>>> harshest of conditions. I have found that it can be>>> less than consistent in its performance. I have>>> found that it does break down particularly if gluing>>> dissimilar woods due to their different expansion>>> rates. I have also found that the natural oils in>>> Doug Fir, Cherry and Cedar tend to conflict with>>> proper adhesion. It does work better if you moisten>>> the surfaces to be glued with some water previous to>>> applying the glue as you get better penetration and>>> quicker drying. That said and given the cost and>>> amount of adhesive to be used I figure dollar for>>> dollar go with the proven T-88.>>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >> >> >> >> >> __________________________________>> Access over 1 million songs. Try it free.>> http://music.yahoo.com/unlimited/>> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________Date: Wed, 19 Oct 2005 13:13:50 -0400
>> To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com>> Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: alternative glues>> >> >> The polyurethane glue (Elmer's Ultimate Glue, Gorilla>> Glue) must have water to activate the glue. On soft>> woods like spruce and Douglas Fir you only need to wet>> one side to be glued and you spread a thin film on the>> other mating side. If you do use water, the glue will>> not activate and will be useless. You use mild>> clamping for at least 4 hours. The glue will foam out>> from the joint which can be wiped with a dampened>> cloth or can be cut off later with a sharp knife. The>> most common failure with this glue is not following>> the directions to the letter and the glue does not>> activate within the joint. I learned this the hard>> way. The pieces to be glued need to fit more closely>> than is needed for the epoxy glues. I found good wood>> penetration when the glue was applied correctly. It>> takes a little practice to get a good glue joint. If>> two hardwoods (ie. ash) are glued, both mating>> surfaces must be wet before applying the glue. It>> only takes a very thin film of the glue as the glue>> expands. This expansion forces the glue into the>> wood. I haven't tried this glue on all types of wood,>> so I cannot comment on it's usefulness in these cases.>> I think that any builder should test this glue if he>> is going to use it on any structural member. In my>> opinion, I still feel that the epoxy glues are the>> strongest for joints that will have the greatest>> stresses. This would be the fuselage and landing gear>> members and perhaps the tail feather joints. Others>> may have differing opinions, and that is good. By>> discusing this topic, we are combining our research>> experience.>> >> Doc (H) >> >> --- MICHAEL SILVIUS >> wrote:>> >>> Folks:>>> FWIW. I have used polyurethane glues on marine>>> applications where admittedly it has been exposed to>>> harshest of conditions. I have found that it can be>>> less than consistent in its performance. I have>>> found that it does break down particularly if gluing>>> dissimilar woods due to their different expansion>>> rates. I have also found that the natural oils in>>> Doug Fir, Cherry and Cedar tend to conflict with>>> proper adhesion. It does work better if you moisten>>> the surfaces to be glued with some water previous to>>> applying the glue as you get better penetration and>>> quicker drying. That said and given the cost and>>> amount of adhesive to be used I figure dollar for>>> dollar go with the proven T-88.>>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >> >> >> >> >> __________________________________>> Access over 1 million songs. Try it free.>> http://music.yahoo.com/unlimited/>> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________Date: Wed, 19 Oct 2005 13:13:50 -0400
> >> Re: Pietenpol-List: alternative glues
Original Posted By: Tim Willis
> >> To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com> >> Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: alternative glues> >>> >>> >> The polyurethane glue (Elmer's Ultimate Glue, Gorilla> >> Glue) must have water to activate the glue. On soft> >> woods like spruce and Douglas Fir you only need to wet> >> one side to be glued and you spread a thin film on the> >> other mating side. If you do use water, the glue will> >> not activate and will be useless. You use mild> >> clamping for at least 4 hours. The glue will foam out> >> from the joint which can be wiped with a dampened> >> cloth or can be cut off later with a sharp knife. The> >> most common failure with this glue is not following> >> the directions to the letter and the glue does not> >> activate within the joint. I learned this the hard> >> way. The pieces to be glued need to fit more closely> >> than is needed for the epoxy glues. I found good wood> >> penetration when the glue was applied correctly. It> >> takes a little practice to get a good glue joint. If> >> two hardwoods (ie. ash) are glued, both mating> >> surfaces must be wet before applying the glue. It> >> only takes a very thin film of the glue as the glue> >> expands. This expansion forces the glue into the> >> wood. I haven't tried this glue on all types of wood,> >> so I cannot comment on it's usefulness in these cases.> >> I think that any builder should test this glue if he> >> is going to use it on any structural member. In my> >> opinion, I still feel that the epoxy glues are the> >> strongest for joints that will have the greatest> >> stresses. This would be the fuselage and landing gear> >> members and perhaps the tail feather joints. Others> >> may have differing opinions, and that is good. By> >> discusing this topic, we are combining our research> >> experience.> >>> >> Doc (H)> >>> >> --- MICHAEL SILVIUS > >> wrote:> >>> >>> Folks:> >>> FWIW. I have used polyurethane glues on marine> >>> applications where admittedly it has been exposed to> >>> harshest of conditions. I have found that it can be> >>> less than consistent in its performance. I have> >>> found that it does break down particularly if gluing> >>> dissimilar woods due to their different expansion> >>> rates. I have also found that the natural oils in> >>> Doug Fir, Cherry and Cedar tend to conflict with> >>> proper adhesion. It does work better if you moisten> >>> the surfaces to be glued with some water previous to> >>> applying the glue as you get better penetration and> >>> quicker drying. That said and given the cost and> >>> amount of adhesive to be used I figure dollar for> >>> dollar go with the proven T-88.> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >> __________________________________> >> Access over 1 million songs. Try it free.> >> http://music.yahoo.com/unlimited/> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > > >________________________________________________________________________________Date: Wed, 19 Oct 2005 11:03:02 -0700 (PDT)
> >> To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com> >> Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: alternative glues> >>> >>> >> The polyurethane glue (Elmer's Ultimate Glue, Gorilla> >> Glue) must have water to activate the glue. On soft> >> woods like spruce and Douglas Fir you only need to wet> >> one side to be glued and you spread a thin film on the> >> other mating side. If you do use water, the glue will> >> not activate and will be useless. You use mild> >> clamping for at least 4 hours. The glue will foam out> >> from the joint which can be wiped with a dampened> >> cloth or can be cut off later with a sharp knife. The> >> most common failure with this glue is not following> >> the directions to the letter and the glue does not> >> activate within the joint. I learned this the hard> >> way. The pieces to be glued need to fit more closely> >> than is needed for the epoxy glues. I found good wood> >> penetration when the glue was applied correctly. It> >> takes a little practice to get a good glue joint. If> >> two hardwoods (ie. ash) are glued, both mating> >> surfaces must be wet before applying the glue. It> >> only takes a very thin film of the glue as the glue> >> expands. This expansion forces the glue into the> >> wood. I haven't tried this glue on all types of wood,> >> so I cannot comment on it's usefulness in these cases.> >> I think that any builder should test this glue if he> >> is going to use it on any structural member. In my> >> opinion, I still feel that the epoxy glues are the> >> strongest for joints that will have the greatest> >> stresses. This would be the fuselage and landing gear> >> members and perhaps the tail feather joints. Others> >> may have differing opinions, and that is good. By> >> discusing this topic, we are combining our research> >> experience.> >>> >> Doc (H)> >>> >> --- MICHAEL SILVIUS > >> wrote:> >>> >>> Folks:> >>> FWIW. I have used polyurethane glues on marine> >>> applications where admittedly it has been exposed to> >>> harshest of conditions. I have found that it can be> >>> less than consistent in its performance. I have> >>> found that it does break down particularly if gluing> >>> dissimilar woods due to their different expansion> >>> rates. I have also found that the natural oils in> >>> Doug Fir, Cherry and Cedar tend to conflict with> >>> proper adhesion. It does work better if you moisten> >>> the surfaces to be glued with some water previous to> >>> applying the glue as you get better penetration and> >>> quicker drying. That said and given the cost and> >>> amount of adhesive to be used I figure dollar for> >>> dollar go with the proven T-88.> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >> __________________________________> >> Access over 1 million songs. Try it free.> >> http://music.yahoo.com/unlimited/> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > > >________________________________________________________________________________Date: Wed, 19 Oct 2005 11:03:02 -0700 (PDT)