Original Posted By: Gary Gower
Since my plane is down for the winter I am doing some maint and upgrades. Oneof the items on my checklist was to remove the fuel tank and rinse out. Doingthis I got a big suprise. I had used a fuel tank sealant when I built the tankout of aluminum. I used a boreoscope to check the inside of the tank and allis holding up well, but, when I rinsed out the tank some good sized piecesof sealant washed out. This didn't come from the ends where I had sealed butfrom where the liquid had dribbled on the sides when I poured it into the tank.Many of the pieces of debris could easily have clogged the fuel line.A couple of major points here. Is a tank sealant relly a good idea? I haventresolved that for myself yet, but I'm thinking no at this point. In order toprevent any future problems, I tapped out the 1/4" fuel bushing to 3/8" and ordereda finger strainer for inside the tank. The strainer is approx 2" high.When building a new tank it might be good to install that strainer to start. Having said that, it is an item that also should be removed and cleaned with eachannual.Dick N.________________________________________________________________________________Date: Fri, 3 Feb 2006 23:05:08 -0800 (PST)
Pietenpol-List: fuel tank sealer
RE: Pietenpol-List: fuel tank sealer
Original Posted By: "Jack T. Textor"
Pietenpol-List:
Original Posted By: Jim Ash
Hello everyone, I'm not new to the list, I've been lurking for a few years.I have a Piet project sitting in my shop that has been on the shelf forquite some time due to time constraints (running a business, remodeling ahouse, keeping up with family etc.) I wanted to share something with youall. I've been around construction, cabinet/furniture making, restored carsand generally working with my hands for over 40 years and in the past year Icame up with an idea so simple, yet so helpful I can't believe I haven'theard of it before. I was making metal fittings for my Piet, laying out thepieces on the metal with a marking pen, or whatever, then cutting them out.I wasn't happy at all with the precision of the pieces due to the layout -thickness of line, little off with a measurement etc, etc.SOLUTION:-Draw the part using a CAD Program on the computer including all hole layoutand anything else you'll need to machine (I use AutoCad but any of the CADprograms will work).-Print the drawing to full scale.-Cut the drawing to the rough size.-Use a spray adhesive to mount the drawing to the metal. 3M makes a good oneand its sold in most hardware stores.-Cut and drill the part per the drawing layout.-When you're done machining, wet the paper drawing with a little lacquerthinner and it virtually falls off.I use the same method to make small precise wooden parts. Works great.Now I can't imagine making parts any other way. The computer allows you todouble check your layout before you put it on the metal. It also gives youthe minimum line weight so threes no guesswork involved. If you're notalready using a CAD program it would be well worth the time to learn thebasics. You'll recoup the time over and over again.As I said, I've been lurking on the list for quite a while and I've gottenso much from everyone I thought I'd give something back. Hope this helpssomebody out there, I know it's really improved the quality of the partsI've made.DaveRememberThe Ark was built by amateurs, the Titanic was built by Professionals. Keepbuilding.--________________________________________________________________________________Date: Sat, 4 Feb 2006 09:43:44 -0500 (GMT-05:00)
Hello everyone, I'm not new to the list, I've been lurking for a few years.I have a Piet project sitting in my shop that has been on the shelf forquite some time due to time constraints (running a business, remodeling ahouse, keeping up with family etc.) I wanted to share something with youall. I've been around construction, cabinet/furniture making, restored carsand generally working with my hands for over 40 years and in the past year Icame up with an idea so simple, yet so helpful I can't believe I haven'theard of it before. I was making metal fittings for my Piet, laying out thepieces on the metal with a marking pen, or whatever, then cutting them out.I wasn't happy at all with the precision of the pieces due to the layout -thickness of line, little off with a measurement etc, etc.SOLUTION:-Draw the part using a CAD Program on the computer including all hole layoutand anything else you'll need to machine (I use AutoCad but any of the CADprograms will work).-Print the drawing to full scale.-Cut the drawing to the rough size.-Use a spray adhesive to mount the drawing to the metal. 3M makes a good oneand its sold in most hardware stores.-Cut and drill the part per the drawing layout.-When you're done machining, wet the paper drawing with a little lacquerthinner and it virtually falls off.I use the same method to make small precise wooden parts. Works great.Now I can't imagine making parts any other way. The computer allows you todouble check your layout before you put it on the metal. It also gives youthe minimum line weight so threes no guesswork involved. If you're notalready using a CAD program it would be well worth the time to learn thebasics. You'll recoup the time over and over again.As I said, I've been lurking on the list for quite a while and I've gottenso much from everyone I thought I'd give something back. Hope this helpssomebody out there, I know it's really improved the quality of the partsI've made.DaveRememberThe Ark was built by amateurs, the Titanic was built by Professionals. Keepbuilding.--________________________________________________________________________________Date: Sat, 4 Feb 2006 09:43:44 -0500 (GMT-05:00)
Re: Pietenpol-List:
Original Posted By: "Dave Esslinger"
Great idea, Dave.I use spray adhesives a lot. Primarily 3M 77. I like your idea about removing stuff with lacquer thinner. I've found that using a heat gun to remove the paper makes the little bit of leftoever adhesive a lot easier to clean up with the lacquer thinner. Not quite as messy.I also use grid paper to layout the part (using a circle template, straight edge, compass, etc) then stick that right to the metal. In fact, I'm redesigning my landing gear and attached is an example (small file size) of how the grid paper works out. Now all I have to do is straighten out the lines a bit and I have templates. I spent nearly 15 years as a design draftsman but just haven't seemed to enjoy much success with the drawing programs like AutoCad. (Maybe because I'm too lazy to learn one, but I'll bet there are some good ones out there nowadays.)Neat idea, thanks!Jim in Plano TX----- Original Message -----
Great idea, Dave.I use spray adhesives a lot. Primarily 3M 77. I like your idea about removing stuff with lacquer thinner. I've found that using a heat gun to remove the paper makes the little bit of leftoever adhesive a lot easier to clean up with the lacquer thinner. Not quite as messy.I also use grid paper to layout the part (using a circle template, straight edge, compass, etc) then stick that right to the metal. In fact, I'm redesigning my landing gear and attached is an example (small file size) of how the grid paper works out. Now all I have to do is straighten out the lines a bit and I have templates. I spent nearly 15 years as a design draftsman but just haven't seemed to enjoy much success with the drawing programs like AutoCad. (Maybe because I'm too lazy to learn one, but I'll bet there are some good ones out there nowadays.)Neat idea, thanks!Jim in Plano TX----- Original Message -----
Re: Pietenpol-List:
Original Posted By: Rick Holland
Re: Pietenpol-List: fuel tank sealer
Original Posted By: "Jim Markle"
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: fuel tank sealeri have a bd4 and fuel sealant is a big problem with the bd, we have found that 1422 proseal is the sealant you should use . it the same sealant used on the md80 and you never have problems with it tom________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: fuel tank sealeri have a bd4 and fuel sealant is a big problem with the bd, we have found that 1422 proseal is the sealant you should use . it the same sealant used on the md80 and you never have problems with it tom________________________________________________________________________________
Re: Pietenpol-List: fuel tank sealer.
Original Posted By: Rick Holland
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: fuel tank sealer.oh i almost forgot never use sloshing compound it is always a mess it breaks down in gasoline tom________________________________________________________________________________Date: Sat, 4 Feb 2006 09:40:51 -0700
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: fuel tank sealer.oh i almost forgot never use sloshing compound it is always a mess it breaks down in gasoline tom________________________________________________________________________________Date: Sat, 4 Feb 2006 09:40:51 -0700