Original Posted By: emtyit(at)3web.com
I'm starting my wings for my winter project and I had a question about the riblocations. The supplemantal plans show the Flying Strut Fittings longer than the1934 plans so that the fittings will be in line with the wing struts. My calculationsshow that the 7th rib in form the wigtip will have the rib uprightright over the fitting and its plywood base. What has everyone done about this?Move the rib outboard to clear the fitting? Cut the rib vertical and the gussetsto clear the fitting?I getting ready to cut and weld the fittings and I sure don't want to do this twice.Thanks,Rick SchreiberValparaiso, INRichard Schreiberlmforge(at)earthlink.netWhy Wait? Move to EarthLink.________________________________________________________________________________Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2007 16:22:46 -0700
Pietenpol-List: Rib Location
> Pietenpol-List: Rib Location
Original Posted By: "Steve Singleton"
Hi Rick...I don't know what everyone else is doing but I ended up figureing this out the hard way. I had to move the 7th rib outboard just enough to clear the strut fitting, about 1/2", and then relieved the rib upright just enough to let the fitting slide through the slot, my ribs have the 1" spar slots and I have 3/4" spars so the plywood reinforceing was not a problem for me. Then I had to reposition all the other ribs so that I didn't have one odd spaced rib. It ended up being pretty time consuming figuring it all out and getting everything repositioned. I referenced the Britt's wing drawings before doing all this and couldn't figure out why they had moved the strut fitting outboard by 3". Well, I do now, By doing so the fitting falls between the ribs. I wanted to build as close to the plans as I could so I didn't want to make the struts longer than plans but it's probably a good idea to do so. Hope this helps and I will be interested to hear how others on the list dealt with this. Ed G. W. Coast Fl.>From: "Richard Schreiber" >Reply-To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com>To: "pietenpol-list" >Subject: Pietenpol-List: Rib Location>Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2007 16:17:10 -0600>>I'm starting my wings for my winter project and I had a question about the >rib locations. The supplemantal plans show the Flying Strut Fittings longer >than the 1934 plans so that the fittings will be in line with the wing >struts. My calculations show that the 7th rib in form the wigtip will have >the rib upright right over the fitting and its plywood base. What has >everyone done about this? Move the rib outboard to clear the fitting? Cut >the rib vertical and the gussets to clear the fitting?>>I getting ready to cut and weld the fittings and I sure don't want to do >this twice.>>Thanks,>Rick Schreiber>Valparaiso, IN>>Richard Schreiber>lmforge(at)earthlink.net>Why Wait? Move to EarthLink.________________________________________________________________________________
Hi Rick...I don't know what everyone else is doing but I ended up figureing this out the hard way. I had to move the 7th rib outboard just enough to clear the strut fitting, about 1/2", and then relieved the rib upright just enough to let the fitting slide through the slot, my ribs have the 1" spar slots and I have 3/4" spars so the plywood reinforceing was not a problem for me. Then I had to reposition all the other ribs so that I didn't have one odd spaced rib. It ended up being pretty time consuming figuring it all out and getting everything repositioned. I referenced the Britt's wing drawings before doing all this and couldn't figure out why they had moved the strut fitting outboard by 3". Well, I do now, By doing so the fitting falls between the ribs. I wanted to build as close to the plans as I could so I didn't want to make the struts longer than plans but it's probably a good idea to do so. Hope this helps and I will be interested to hear how others on the list dealt with this. Ed G. W. Coast Fl.>From: "Richard Schreiber" >Reply-To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com>To: "pietenpol-list" >Subject: Pietenpol-List: Rib Location>Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2007 16:17:10 -0600>>I'm starting my wings for my winter project and I had a question about the >rib locations. The supplemantal plans show the Flying Strut Fittings longer >than the 1934 plans so that the fittings will be in line with the wing >struts. My calculations show that the 7th rib in form the wigtip will have >the rib upright right over the fitting and its plywood base. What has >everyone done about this? Move the rib outboard to clear the fitting? Cut >the rib vertical and the gussets to clear the fitting?>>I getting ready to cut and weld the fittings and I sure don't want to do >this twice.>>Thanks,>Rick Schreiber>Valparaiso, IN>>Richard Schreiber>lmforge(at)earthlink.net>Why Wait? Move to EarthLink.________________________________________________________________________________
RE: Pietenpol-List: Rib Location
Original Posted By:> Ed G.
Hi Ed:I drafted the layout of the spar, struts and ribs in autocad and came upwith the same problem you ran into. The inboard edge of the 7th rib is only1/2" from the center bolt on the flying strut fittings. If you make thefittings line up with the struts, that puts the rib vertical directly overthe fitting and its 1/8" plywood backers. I have a 3/4" spar also, but my ribs have a 3/4" rib slot. If I relieve theupright I would have nothing left. What I thought I could do is on the tworibs in question, remove the uprights and just relocate them to fit overthe spar, the plywood and the fitting. I could then do as you suggestedmove the rib a little outboard and/or the attachment of the strut inboard1/2" or so to allow for clearance of the bolt and the compression struts. Idon't want to move the rib too far outboard, as moving the rib decreasesthe length of the ailerons. Moving the strut inboard may compromise thestrength of the wing, though I assume others have done this without aproblem.I was just wondering what everyone else has done with this and wassurprised to not see anything about it on the list, unless I just couldn'tfind it.Thanks,Rick SchreiberIn chilly NW Indiana> [Original Message]
Hi Ed:I drafted the layout of the spar, struts and ribs in autocad and came upwith the same problem you ran into. The inboard edge of the 7th rib is only1/2" from the center bolt on the flying strut fittings. If you make thefittings line up with the struts, that puts the rib vertical directly overthe fitting and its 1/8" plywood backers. I have a 3/4" spar also, but my ribs have a 3/4" rib slot. If I relieve theupright I would have nothing left. What I thought I could do is on the tworibs in question, remove the uprights and just relocate them to fit overthe spar, the plywood and the fitting. I could then do as you suggestedmove the rib a little outboard and/or the attachment of the strut inboard1/2" or so to allow for clearance of the bolt and the compression struts. Idon't want to move the rib too far outboard, as moving the rib decreasesthe length of the ailerons. Moving the strut inboard may compromise thestrength of the wing, though I assume others have done this without aproblem.I was just wondering what everyone else has done with this and wassurprised to not see anything about it on the list, unless I just couldn'tfind it.Thanks,Rick SchreiberIn chilly NW Indiana> [Original Message]
Re: Pietenpol-List: Rib Location
Original Posted By: Matt Dralle
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Rib LocationHere are the notes that I made when I was building my wing, on how I would do it a little differently:Here is how I built my one piece wing:I used T88 exclusively, and Ace Spar Varnish #16375. The most tedious part,was applying 2 coats of the spar varnish, after ALL construction was 100% complete, getting in every nook & cranny between the gussets, with a small paint brush. I used the 'Single Wrap Spiral' method, as called out in the AC 43-13, to saftey all the turnbuckles. I used torque seal (small squeeze tube of thick laquer paint) on all hardware and fittings, so future inspections will show any movement. I used Stits Covering method, with 2.7oz on the wing& fuselage, and 1.8oz on the ailerons and empenage.The ribs will now be referred to as =98L1'- Left 1st rib. =98R1' - Right 1st rib. There are 14 ribs on each side. The center rib will be referred to as =98C'.Build new rib jig, so that the gussets and the upright =C2=BC x =C2=BD next to the spars, are spaced 28 1/16" to 28 1/8" apart. This should be the exact dimention between the spars, with the exception of the 3 center ribs, and the outboardribs where the struts attach. These locations have 1/8" plywood doublers on each side of the spar. Leave the gussets off in 2 locations. On the lower forward side of the front spar, and on the aft upper side of the aft spar. Install these gussets after the ribs have been assembled to the spars. This will ensure a nice tight fit.Other gussets to be left off are on the ribs at the inboard aileron station. On this rib, leave the outboard (trailing edge) gusset off, for the later installation of the aileron blank plywood (1/16"). I did not cut the ailerons free, untill ALL wing construction was 100% complete, including the aileron spars, braces, hinges, horns, cables & pulleys, and drag / anti-drag cables were installed. After removing the aileron, I removed the fittings, so as to apply varnish underneith, as I did with all fittings.The center section of the wing, forward of the front spar, is designed so asto allow the top of the radiator to be within the wing. Two 1/8" plywood L.E. ribs, are spaced evenly between, and paralell to, R1 and L1. These ribs will accept the 1/16" plywood L.E. (on top), and the 1/32" plywood (within the radiator cavity).Hinges are numbered 1 thru 6, beginning on the left wing tip.Lots of places on the wing needed to be drilled using Granpap's hand crank drill (chordless !!), because of clearance reasons.Cable guide blocks were numbered 1 thru 8, starting at the top left. I glued 1/4" plywood to the spar, then screwed the guide blocks to the plywood, so as not to drill any extra holes in the spars.Jury strut C/L is 37" outboard of C/L of cabane strut attachments. I estimated the placement of the jury strut attachments by referring to the picture of the Pietenpol on the 1999 I A M Union Calender.The 1/8" Plywood doublers, located at the center section and the lift strut attachments, should have Spaded Ends (football shaped). These doublers bring the width of the spar to the plans width of 1", and allow the plans dimentions to be used for all the fittings.The ribs were weighted, without varnish, and the heaviest ones were installed inboard, progressively installing the lighter ones toward the wingips. The two inboard ribs are the only ones that are made out of Spruce, the rest of the ribs are made out of Western Cedar.LEFT SIDE RIGHT SIDE1.) 7.24 oz Spruce 1.) 7.4 oz Spruce2.) 7.8 oz All other ribs are Cedar 2.) 7.96 oz All other ribs are Cedar3.) 7.91 oz 3.) 7.93 oz4.) 7.5 oz 4.) 7.91 oz5.) 6.58 oz 5.) 6.56 oz6.) 7.94 oz 6.) 6.34 oz7.) 6.4 oz 7.) 6.44 oz8.) 7.93 oz 8.) 6.4 oz9.) 6.44 oz 9.) 6.3 oz10.) 6.34 oz 10.) 6.25 oz11.) 6.29 oz 11.) 6.2 oz12.) 6.22 oz 12.) 6.17 oz13.) 6.15 oz 13.) 6.14 oz14.) 6.1 oz 14.) 6.09 oz All ribs are identical. Build the rib jig to accept 3/4" spars, and so that the gussets and the upright =C2=BC x =C2=BD next to the spars, are spaced 28 1/16" to 28 1/8" apart. This should be the exact dimention between the spars, with the exception of the 3 center ribs, and the ribs where the lift struts attach. These rib locations have 1/8" plywood doublers on front and aft sides of each spar, and will have to have 1" spar openings. This step was for the Ford Model A Radiator - The center section of my wing (forward of the front spar), is designed so as to allow the top of the radiator tank to be within the wing, behind the leading edge. Two 1/8" plywood L.E. ribs, are spaced evenly between, and paralell to, R1 and L1. These sub ribs will accept the 1/16" plywood L.E. (on top), and the 1/32" plywood (within the radiator cavity). The radiator was custom made, to be the width between thecabane struts, and I have forward view below the radiator.Plans type, barn door hinges are numbered 1 thru 6, beginning on the left wing tip. The aileron gap was sealed with a piece of 2" fabric tape, beforepaint was applied. I also made sealed gap hinges on the empenage, but used a different method, due to the Vi Kapler hinges, that pivot at the center. I have pictures of this scanned in, if anyone is interested.Lots of places on the wing needed to be drilled using Granpap's hand crank drill (chordless !!), because of clearance reasons.Chuck G.NX770CG_http://nx770cg.com/_ (http://nx770cg.com/) **************************************Check out AOL's list of 2007's hottestproducts.(http://money.aol.com/special/hot-produc ... 0000000001)________________________________________________________________________________Date: Wed, 28 Nov 2007 00:29:00 -0800
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Rib LocationHere are the notes that I made when I was building my wing, on how I would do it a little differently:Here is how I built my one piece wing:I used T88 exclusively, and Ace Spar Varnish #16375. The most tedious part,was applying 2 coats of the spar varnish, after ALL construction was 100% complete, getting in every nook & cranny between the gussets, with a small paint brush. I used the 'Single Wrap Spiral' method, as called out in the AC 43-13, to saftey all the turnbuckles. I used torque seal (small squeeze tube of thick laquer paint) on all hardware and fittings, so future inspections will show any movement. I used Stits Covering method, with 2.7oz on the wing& fuselage, and 1.8oz on the ailerons and empenage.The ribs will now be referred to as =98L1'- Left 1st rib. =98R1' - Right 1st rib. There are 14 ribs on each side. The center rib will be referred to as =98C'.Build new rib jig, so that the gussets and the upright =C2=BC x =C2=BD next to the spars, are spaced 28 1/16" to 28 1/8" apart. This should be the exact dimention between the spars, with the exception of the 3 center ribs, and the outboardribs where the struts attach. These locations have 1/8" plywood doublers on each side of the spar. Leave the gussets off in 2 locations. On the lower forward side of the front spar, and on the aft upper side of the aft spar. Install these gussets after the ribs have been assembled to the spars. This will ensure a nice tight fit.Other gussets to be left off are on the ribs at the inboard aileron station. On this rib, leave the outboard (trailing edge) gusset off, for the later installation of the aileron blank plywood (1/16"). I did not cut the ailerons free, untill ALL wing construction was 100% complete, including the aileron spars, braces, hinges, horns, cables & pulleys, and drag / anti-drag cables were installed. After removing the aileron, I removed the fittings, so as to apply varnish underneith, as I did with all fittings.The center section of the wing, forward of the front spar, is designed so asto allow the top of the radiator to be within the wing. Two 1/8" plywood L.E. ribs, are spaced evenly between, and paralell to, R1 and L1. These ribs will accept the 1/16" plywood L.E. (on top), and the 1/32" plywood (within the radiator cavity).Hinges are numbered 1 thru 6, beginning on the left wing tip.Lots of places on the wing needed to be drilled using Granpap's hand crank drill (chordless !!), because of clearance reasons.Cable guide blocks were numbered 1 thru 8, starting at the top left. I glued 1/4" plywood to the spar, then screwed the guide blocks to the plywood, so as not to drill any extra holes in the spars.Jury strut C/L is 37" outboard of C/L of cabane strut attachments. I estimated the placement of the jury strut attachments by referring to the picture of the Pietenpol on the 1999 I A M Union Calender.The 1/8" Plywood doublers, located at the center section and the lift strut attachments, should have Spaded Ends (football shaped). These doublers bring the width of the spar to the plans width of 1", and allow the plans dimentions to be used for all the fittings.The ribs were weighted, without varnish, and the heaviest ones were installed inboard, progressively installing the lighter ones toward the wingips. The two inboard ribs are the only ones that are made out of Spruce, the rest of the ribs are made out of Western Cedar.LEFT SIDE RIGHT SIDE1.) 7.24 oz Spruce 1.) 7.4 oz Spruce2.) 7.8 oz All other ribs are Cedar 2.) 7.96 oz All other ribs are Cedar3.) 7.91 oz 3.) 7.93 oz4.) 7.5 oz 4.) 7.91 oz5.) 6.58 oz 5.) 6.56 oz6.) 7.94 oz 6.) 6.34 oz7.) 6.4 oz 7.) 6.44 oz8.) 7.93 oz 8.) 6.4 oz9.) 6.44 oz 9.) 6.3 oz10.) 6.34 oz 10.) 6.25 oz11.) 6.29 oz 11.) 6.2 oz12.) 6.22 oz 12.) 6.17 oz13.) 6.15 oz 13.) 6.14 oz14.) 6.1 oz 14.) 6.09 oz All ribs are identical. Build the rib jig to accept 3/4" spars, and so that the gussets and the upright =C2=BC x =C2=BD next to the spars, are spaced 28 1/16" to 28 1/8" apart. This should be the exact dimention between the spars, with the exception of the 3 center ribs, and the ribs where the lift struts attach. These rib locations have 1/8" plywood doublers on front and aft sides of each spar, and will have to have 1" spar openings. This step was for the Ford Model A Radiator - The center section of my wing (forward of the front spar), is designed so as to allow the top of the radiator tank to be within the wing, behind the leading edge. Two 1/8" plywood L.E. ribs, are spaced evenly between, and paralell to, R1 and L1. These sub ribs will accept the 1/16" plywood L.E. (on top), and the 1/32" plywood (within the radiator cavity). The radiator was custom made, to be the width between thecabane struts, and I have forward view below the radiator.Plans type, barn door hinges are numbered 1 thru 6, beginning on the left wing tip. The aileron gap was sealed with a piece of 2" fabric tape, beforepaint was applied. I also made sealed gap hinges on the empenage, but used a different method, due to the Vi Kapler hinges, that pivot at the center. I have pictures of this scanned in, if anyone is interested.Lots of places on the wing needed to be drilled using Granpap's hand crank drill (chordless !!), because of clearance reasons.Chuck G.NX770CG_http://nx770cg.com/_ (http://nx770cg.com/) **************************************Check out AOL's list of 2007's hottestproducts.(http://money.aol.com/special/hot-produc ... 0000000001)________________________________________________________________________________Date: Wed, 28 Nov 2007 00:29:00 -0800
Re: Pietenpol-List: Rib Location
Original Posted By: Rcaprd(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Rib LocationIn a message dated 11/28/2007 7:42:51 AM Central Standard Time, timothywillis(at)earthlink.net writes:Chuck,Thanks for the detail on wing construction. That is very helpful. On your website you also show some little balsa pieces, gussets of a sort, on the sparon each side of the ribs. I believe you stated this was to add gluing surface. Whether I have that right or not, what is this about? Would you do itagain and also recommend it to others?Thanks,Tim in central TXTim,The little balsa fillets are in fact to increase the gluing surface. The rib jig that I borrowed was for the 1" spars, and I have 3/4" Douglas Fir Spars. I used 1/16" shims on each side of the rib placements to take up the gap so as to maintain spar placement, which is acceptable. However, at the time of assembly, I didn't think the ribs fit as well as they should have, so I used those balsa fillets. Keep in mind that the balsa needs to be cut, and never sandon the end grains or it will fill the capillary veins of the wood, and the adhesive can't penetrate as far.If I did it again, I would build the ribs to fit the spars, and eliminate the need for shims or balsa fillets. There are, however, a couple of places where I would recomend the use of these type of fillets. At the wing tips, thethree 1/2 X 1/2 braces that go to the spars are butt joints, and are a weak joint. A simple fillet in those areas is a sizable increase in strength. Doug'splane had one of these joints break loose, and he had to do the repair throughthe inspection holes - hence the reason I added the balsa fillets in those areas.As for the pilot seat belt, I haven't got any good pictures of how I did it, but it is anchored in the cluster at each side of the cockpit. The shoulder harness is attached to 3/32 cable, under the headrest, and is anchored to the tail post with a big flat washer on the aft side. The shoulder harness needs to be as horizontal as you can, so as not to pull down on the spine in the event of a sudden impact.As for the crotch strap, I don't think you need that one...in part because it would be impossible to Pee into a bottle, without releasing the entire harness. On two different occasions, I have had to pee during flight - a veryuncomfortable situation to be in, to say the least, albeit a learning experience!!Chuck G.NX770CG**************************************Check out AOL's list of 2007's hottest products.(http://money.aol.com/special/hot-produc ... 0000000001)________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Rib LocationIn a message dated 11/28/2007 7:42:51 AM Central Standard Time, timothywillis(at)earthlink.net writes:Chuck,Thanks for the detail on wing construction. That is very helpful. On your website you also show some little balsa pieces, gussets of a sort, on the sparon each side of the ribs. I believe you stated this was to add gluing surface. Whether I have that right or not, what is this about? Would you do itagain and also recommend it to others?Thanks,Tim in central TXTim,The little balsa fillets are in fact to increase the gluing surface. The rib jig that I borrowed was for the 1" spars, and I have 3/4" Douglas Fir Spars. I used 1/16" shims on each side of the rib placements to take up the gap so as to maintain spar placement, which is acceptable. However, at the time of assembly, I didn't think the ribs fit as well as they should have, so I used those balsa fillets. Keep in mind that the balsa needs to be cut, and never sandon the end grains or it will fill the capillary veins of the wood, and the adhesive can't penetrate as far.If I did it again, I would build the ribs to fit the spars, and eliminate the need for shims or balsa fillets. There are, however, a couple of places where I would recomend the use of these type of fillets. At the wing tips, thethree 1/2 X 1/2 braces that go to the spars are butt joints, and are a weak joint. A simple fillet in those areas is a sizable increase in strength. Doug'splane had one of these joints break loose, and he had to do the repair throughthe inspection holes - hence the reason I added the balsa fillets in those areas.As for the pilot seat belt, I haven't got any good pictures of how I did it, but it is anchored in the cluster at each side of the cockpit. The shoulder harness is attached to 3/32 cable, under the headrest, and is anchored to the tail post with a big flat washer on the aft side. The shoulder harness needs to be as horizontal as you can, so as not to pull down on the spine in the event of a sudden impact.As for the crotch strap, I don't think you need that one...in part because it would be impossible to Pee into a bottle, without releasing the entire harness. On two different occasions, I have had to pee during flight - a veryuncomfortable situation to be in, to say the least, albeit a learning experience!!Chuck G.NX770CG**************************************Check out AOL's list of 2007's hottest products.(http://money.aol.com/special/hot-produc ... 0000000001)________________________________________________________________________________
> > Pietenpol-List: Rib Location
Original Posted By: "Patrick Panzera"
> Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Rib Location>>> Hi Rick...I don't know what everyone else is doing but I ended upfigureing > this out the hard way. I had to move the 7th rib outboard just enough to > clear the strut fitting, about 1/2", and then relieved the rib uprightjust > enough to let the fitting slide through the slot, my ribs have the 1"spar > slots and I have 3/4" spars so the plywood reinforceing was not a problem > for me. Then I had to reposition all the other ribs so that I didn't have > one odd spaced rib. It ended up being pretty time consuming figuring itall > out and getting everything repositioned. I referenced the Britt's wing > drawings before doing all this and couldn't figure out why they had moved > the strut fitting outboard by 3". Well, I do now, By doing so the fitting > falls between the ribs. I wanted to build as close to the plans as Icould > so I didn't want to make the struts longer than plans but it's probably a > good idea to do so. Hope this helps and I will be interested to hear how > others on the list dealt with this. Ed G. W. Coast Fl.>>> >From: "Richard Schreiber" > >Reply-To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com> >To: "pietenpol-list" > >Subject: Pietenpol-List: Rib Location> >Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2007 16:17:10 -0600> >> >I'm starting my wings for my winter project and I had a question aboutthe > >rib locations. The supplemantal plans show the Flying Strut Fittingslonger > >than the 1934 plans so that the fittings will be in line with the wing > >struts. My calculations show that the 7th rib in form the wigtip willhave > >the rib upright right over the fitting and its plywood base. What has > >everyone done about this? Move the rib outboard to clear the fitting?Cut > >the rib vertical and the gussets to clear the fitting?> >> >I getting ready to cut and weld the fittings and I sure don't want to do > >this twice.> >> >Thanks,> >Rick Schreiber> >Valparaiso, IN> >> >Richard Schreiber> >lmforge(at)earthlink.net> >Why Wait? Move to EarthLink.>>________________________________________________________________________________
> Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Rib Location>>> Hi Rick...I don't know what everyone else is doing but I ended upfigureing > this out the hard way. I had to move the 7th rib outboard just enough to > clear the strut fitting, about 1/2", and then relieved the rib uprightjust > enough to let the fitting slide through the slot, my ribs have the 1"spar > slots and I have 3/4" spars so the plywood reinforceing was not a problem > for me. Then I had to reposition all the other ribs so that I didn't have > one odd spaced rib. It ended up being pretty time consuming figuring itall > out and getting everything repositioned. I referenced the Britt's wing > drawings before doing all this and couldn't figure out why they had moved > the strut fitting outboard by 3". Well, I do now, By doing so the fitting > falls between the ribs. I wanted to build as close to the plans as Icould > so I didn't want to make the struts longer than plans but it's probably a > good idea to do so. Hope this helps and I will be interested to hear how > others on the list dealt with this. Ed G. W. Coast Fl.>>> >From: "Richard Schreiber" > >Reply-To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com> >To: "pietenpol-list" > >Subject: Pietenpol-List: Rib Location> >Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2007 16:17:10 -0600> >> >I'm starting my wings for my winter project and I had a question aboutthe > >rib locations. The supplemantal plans show the Flying Strut Fittingslonger > >than the 1934 plans so that the fittings will be in line with the wing > >struts. My calculations show that the 7th rib in form the wigtip willhave > >the rib upright right over the fitting and its plywood base. What has > >everyone done about this? Move the rib outboard to clear the fitting?Cut > >the rib vertical and the gussets to clear the fitting?> >> >I getting ready to cut and weld the fittings and I sure don't want to do > >this twice.> >> >Thanks,> >Rick Schreiber> >Valparaiso, IN> >> >Richard Schreiber> >lmforge(at)earthlink.net> >Why Wait? Move to EarthLink.>>________________________________________________________________________________