Original Posted By: "Gary Boothe"
Regarding the wedge blocks, I believe they are only required at the two locations shown, as reinforcement for landing gear attachment. Some builders have opted to use lightweight balsa filler wedges in other locations, to avoid water collection in the pockets (not a bad idea).- Regarding plywood, one important feature of Aircraft grade plywood is that it is manufactured using waterproof (actually boilproof) glues. This will prevent the plies from delaminating, should the wood somehow become soaked with water. An economical alternative to Aircraft grade plywood for the fuselage sides is the use of BS1088 or BS6566 Okoume Marine Ply (Okoume is a mahogany-like tropical wood).-While it is not quite as strong as Aircraft ply made of Birch, it is apparently strong enough for this purpose, and is manufactured using waterproof (also boilproof) glues. In addition to the lower cost, it is also lighter (in weight, as well as color) than Birch, and available in 4' x 8' sheets. - A couple of sources for Okoume Marine Ply: - - http://www.noahsmarine.com/ http://www.boulterplywood.com/ - Bill C. - -" rel=nofollow target=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Piet ... cs.comllow target=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution -_________________ - -http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List -http://forums.matronics.com -http://www.matronics.com/contribution - - -http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Piet ... ntribution -" rel=nofollow target=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Piet ... cs.comllow target=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-Lista href="http://forums.matronics.com/" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution ________________________________________________________________________________
Pietenpol-List: Suggested product
RE: Pietenpol-List: Fuselage building and material;exelente
Original Posted By:=C2- =0A=0A=0A owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:own
=0A=0A=0AI have to agree with=C2- Gary.we have a MacBeath Hardwood here in SLC, UT and the prices are great I got my Spruce and ply and I don=99t have to pay shipping costs.=0A=0A=C2-=0ABrian =0ASLC, UT =0A
=0A=0A=0AI have to agree with=C2- Gary.we have a MacBeath Hardwood here in SLC, UT and the prices are great I got my Spruce and ply and I don=99t have to pay shipping costs.=0A=0A=C2-=0ABrian =0ASLC, UT =0A
RE: Pietenpol-List: Fuselage building and material;exelente
Original Posted By: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
I have to agree with- Gary..we have a MacBeath Hardwood here in SLC, UT and the prices are great I got my Spruce and ply and I don't have to pay shipping costs.-Brian SLC, UT -
I have to agree with- Gary..we have a MacBeath Hardwood here in SLC, UT and the prices are great I got my Spruce and ply and I don't have to pay shipping costs.-Brian SLC, UT -
Re: Pietenpol-List: Fuselage building and material;exelente
Original Posted By: brian.e.jardine@L-3com.com
One more thing I would not use Okume unless I coated it with epoxy, it's soft=0Aand you can dent=C2-it with your finger nail, it however soaks epoxy like a sponge=0Aand this increases it's side hardness and abrasion resistance.=0AOn Wed, Aug 26, 2009 at 3:24 AM, Robert Ray wrote:=0A=0AIn the South east you can build out of poplar if you like, you can buy it for a buck a board=0Afoot, I'm thinking of building out of baltic birch although not boil proof it's stronger and more=0Aflexible than 1088 Okume, probably twice as strong per deminsion and it's CHEAP.=0AThe epoxy I'm using will not pass a boil test either. The birch I boil tested the natural=0Awood fibers broke down just as bad as the glue joints. What I worry about is not so=0Amuch a boil test or a good soaking it's high humidity over time. I have a piece of baltic=0Abirch on a truck topper I built it's been exposed to rain several times and hasn't delaminated yet.=0AIt's shock resistance is amazing. Birch rules, the boat builders rate marine plywood=0Astrength in this order DF, Meranti then Okume, the Jodel originally was built of=0AOkume but many are now using GL aircraft birch. I think Meranti is a little cheaper =0Athan the Okume but again heavier but stronger, it is more durable and less likly to rot=0Athan either okume or birch.=0AI would not use anything but 1088 if I used Okume I have bent it on other projects=0Aand I think it's 6056 and it will break where it's inner ply's are spliced.=0AIf you want to know about okume go to kayak building web sites and there you will=0Alearn. I like the looks if finnished bright with clear epoxy and fiber glass it is=0Aa very beautifull wood, it's works excellent and will give a much smoother=0Afinnish than DF.=0A=C2-=0Amy 02 cents worth=0A=C2-=0ARussell=0A=0A=0A=0AOn Wed, Aug 26, 2009 at 1:16 AM, jorge lizarraga wrote:=0A=0A=0A=0A=0Aups=C2- tanks for all you inform i used in my plane birch aircraft plywood mm. buy in spruse but the last buy shiping chargers is almost the same amount the wood????if you have thoses scrap pises i like tonow if you like selmy those . =0A=0A=0A--- On Tue, 8/25/09, brian.e.jardine@L-3com.com wrote:=0A
One more thing I would not use Okume unless I coated it with epoxy, it's soft=0Aand you can dent=C2-it with your finger nail, it however soaks epoxy like a sponge=0Aand this increases it's side hardness and abrasion resistance.=0AOn Wed, Aug 26, 2009 at 3:24 AM, Robert Ray wrote:=0A=0AIn the South east you can build out of poplar if you like, you can buy it for a buck a board=0Afoot, I'm thinking of building out of baltic birch although not boil proof it's stronger and more=0Aflexible than 1088 Okume, probably twice as strong per deminsion and it's CHEAP.=0AThe epoxy I'm using will not pass a boil test either. The birch I boil tested the natural=0Awood fibers broke down just as bad as the glue joints. What I worry about is not so=0Amuch a boil test or a good soaking it's high humidity over time. I have a piece of baltic=0Abirch on a truck topper I built it's been exposed to rain several times and hasn't delaminated yet.=0AIt's shock resistance is amazing. Birch rules, the boat builders rate marine plywood=0Astrength in this order DF, Meranti then Okume, the Jodel originally was built of=0AOkume but many are now using GL aircraft birch. I think Meranti is a little cheaper =0Athan the Okume but again heavier but stronger, it is more durable and less likly to rot=0Athan either okume or birch.=0AI would not use anything but 1088 if I used Okume I have bent it on other projects=0Aand I think it's 6056 and it will break where it's inner ply's are spliced.=0AIf you want to know about okume go to kayak building web sites and there you will=0Alearn. I like the looks if finnished bright with clear epoxy and fiber glass it is=0Aa very beautifull wood, it's works excellent and will give a much smoother=0Afinnish than DF.=0A=C2-=0Amy 02 cents worth=0A=C2-=0ARussell=0A=0A=0A=0AOn Wed, Aug 26, 2009 at 1:16 AM, jorge lizarraga wrote:=0A=0A=0A=0A=0Aups=C2- tanks for all you inform i used in my plane birch aircraft plywood mm. buy in spruse but the last buy shiping chargers is almost the same amount the wood????if you have thoses scrap pises i like tonow if you like selmy those . =0A=0A=0A--- On Tue, 8/25/09, brian.e.jardine@L-3com.com wrote:=0A
Re: Pietenpol-List: Fuselage building and material;exelente
Original Posted By: brian.e.jardine@L-3com.com
One more thing I would not use Okume unless I coated it with epoxy, it's softand you can dent-it with your finger nail, it however soaks epoxy like a spongeand this increases it's side hardness and abrasion resistance.On Wed, Aug 26, 2009 at 3:24 AM, Robert Ray wrote:In the South east you can build out of poplar if you like, you can buy it for a buck a boardfoot, I'm thinking of building out of baltic birch although not boil proof it's stronger and moreflexible than 1088 Okume, probably twice as strong per deminsion and it's CHEAP.The epoxy I'm using will not pass a boil test either. The birch I boil tested the naturalwood fibers broke down just as bad as the glue joints. What I worry about is not somuch a boil test or a good soaking it's high humidity over time. I have a piece of balticbirch on a truck topper I built it's been exposed to rain several times and hasn't delaminated yet.It's shock resistance is amazing. Birch rules, the boat builders rate marine plywoodstrength in this order DF, Meranti then Okume, the Jodel originally was built ofOkume but many are now using GL aircraft birch. I think Meranti is a little cheaper than the Okume but again heavier but stronger, it is more durable and less likly to rotthan either okume or birch.I would not use anything but 1088 if I used Okume I have bent it on other projectsand I think it's 6056 and it will break where it's inner ply's are spliced.If you want to know about okume go to kayak building web sites and there you willlearn. I like the looks if finnished bright with clear epoxy and fiber glass it isa very beautifull wood, it's works excellent and will give a much smootherfinnish than DF.-my 02 cents worth-RussellOn Wed, Aug 26, 2009 at 1:16 AM, jorge lizarraga wrote:ups- tanks for all you inform i used in my plane birch aircraft plywood mm. buy in spruse but the last buy shiping chargers is almost the same amount the wood????if you have thoses scrap pises i like tonow if you like selmy those . --- On Tue, 8/25/09, brian.e.jardine@L-3com.com wrote:
One more thing I would not use Okume unless I coated it with epoxy, it's softand you can dent-it with your finger nail, it however soaks epoxy like a spongeand this increases it's side hardness and abrasion resistance.On Wed, Aug 26, 2009 at 3:24 AM, Robert Ray wrote:In the South east you can build out of poplar if you like, you can buy it for a buck a boardfoot, I'm thinking of building out of baltic birch although not boil proof it's stronger and moreflexible than 1088 Okume, probably twice as strong per deminsion and it's CHEAP.The epoxy I'm using will not pass a boil test either. The birch I boil tested the naturalwood fibers broke down just as bad as the glue joints. What I worry about is not somuch a boil test or a good soaking it's high humidity over time. I have a piece of balticbirch on a truck topper I built it's been exposed to rain several times and hasn't delaminated yet.It's shock resistance is amazing. Birch rules, the boat builders rate marine plywoodstrength in this order DF, Meranti then Okume, the Jodel originally was built ofOkume but many are now using GL aircraft birch. I think Meranti is a little cheaper than the Okume but again heavier but stronger, it is more durable and less likly to rotthan either okume or birch.I would not use anything but 1088 if I used Okume I have bent it on other projectsand I think it's 6056 and it will break where it's inner ply's are spliced.If you want to know about okume go to kayak building web sites and there you willlearn. I like the looks if finnished bright with clear epoxy and fiber glass it isa very beautifull wood, it's works excellent and will give a much smootherfinnish than DF.-my 02 cents worth-RussellOn Wed, Aug 26, 2009 at 1:16 AM, jorge lizarraga wrote:ups- tanks for all you inform i used in my plane birch aircraft plywood mm. buy in spruse but the last buy shiping chargers is almost the same amount the wood????if you have thoses scrap pises i like tonow if you like selmy those . --- On Tue, 8/25/09, brian.e.jardine@L-3com.com wrote:
Pietenpol-List: Suggested product
Original Posted By: amsafetyc(at)aol.com
Subject: Pietenpol-List: ASSCO,inc The very few items that I ordered from ASS Co. (quickly learned that Wicks andDillsburg Aero were my best sources of wood and AN hardware)I found that the company did not have informed, intelligent, capable people manningthe phones nor could they get my order right nor could I count on it being at my residence in 2-3 days like Wicks could DO. Wicks and DillsburgAero were wayyyy more reliable and correct on orders than ASSSCO. Mike CuyBerea, Ohio 44017...in case ASSCO is monitoring this post---as I suspect they are. ________________________________________________________________________________Subject: Pietenpol-List: Suggested product
Subject: Pietenpol-List: ASSCO,inc The very few items that I ordered from ASS Co. (quickly learned that Wicks andDillsburg Aero were my best sources of wood and AN hardware)I found that the company did not have informed, intelligent, capable people manningthe phones nor could they get my order right nor could I count on it being at my residence in 2-3 days like Wicks could DO. Wicks and DillsburgAero were wayyyy more reliable and correct on orders than ASSSCO. Mike CuyBerea, Ohio 44017...in case ASSCO is monitoring this post---as I suspect they are. ________________________________________________________________________________Subject: Pietenpol-List: Suggested product
Original Posted By: Jeff Boatright
Any suggestions on sources and material to be used as fire protection layer betweenfirewall and bulkhead?JohnSent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry________________________________________________________________________________Date: Wed, 26 Aug 2009 21:21:29 -0400
Any suggestions on sources and material to be used as fire protection layer betweenfirewall and bulkhead?JohnSent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry________________________________________________________________________________Date: Wed, 26 Aug 2009 21:21:29 -0400
RE: Pietenpol-List: Suggested product
Original Posted By: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
John,Are you looking for something other than galvanized or stainless? Here's mygalvanized.Gary BootheCool, Ca.PietenpolWW Corvair ConversionTail done, Fuselage on gear(13 ribs down.)-----Original Message-----
John,Are you looking for something other than galvanized or stainless? Here's mygalvanized.Gary BootheCool, Ca.PietenpolWW Corvair ConversionTail done, Fuselage on gear(13 ribs down.)-----Original Message-----
Re: Pietenpol-List: Suggested product
Original Posted By: Ryan Mueller
Galvanized? Stainless? What are you talking about? All I saw was a bad ass engine.Way Cool!--------Mark - working on wingsRead this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ______Date: Wed, 26 Aug 2009 23:03:51 -0500Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Suggested product
Galvanized? Stainless? What are you talking about? All I saw was a bad ass engine.Way Cool!--------Mark - working on wingsRead this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ______Date: Wed, 26 Aug 2009 23:03:51 -0500Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Suggested product
Re: Pietenpol-List: Re: portable tie down suggestions
Original Posted By: "Paul N. Peckham"
Before my trip to Oshkosh I made my own tie-downs using plain 1/2" steel bar stock from the hardware store. I cut the bar into three 20" sections, then used an acetylene torch to heat one end and bend it into a candy-cane shape, so the overall length is about 18", almost all of which can be pounded into the ground. These were cheap, are fairly lightweight and fit in a small area. I'm sure they don't hold down exactly as good as a claw, but I think the plane would stay put in 40-50mph winds.The key with a single straight stake is to make sure that the stake is inserted in the ground at an angle that will make the rope perpendicular or near perpendicular to the stake. That way the stake can't just be pulled straight out of the hole. The stakes should be in front of the wings a few feet, and a few feet outboard of the tie-down point on the wing, and then pounded in the ground at near a 45 degree angle. The tail stake should be a few inches behind the tailwheel, and maybe at a 30 degree or so angle (see the graphic in the article below).Here is an EAA article with plans for homebuilt "claw" type stakes. These could probably be built for $20 depending on how much of the material you may already have sitting around your shop.http://www.vintageaircraft.org/magazine ... n.pdfSteve RuseNorman, OK----- Original Message -----
Before my trip to Oshkosh I made my own tie-downs using plain 1/2" steel bar stock from the hardware store. I cut the bar into three 20" sections, then used an acetylene torch to heat one end and bend it into a candy-cane shape, so the overall length is about 18", almost all of which can be pounded into the ground. These were cheap, are fairly lightweight and fit in a small area. I'm sure they don't hold down exactly as good as a claw, but I think the plane would stay put in 40-50mph winds.The key with a single straight stake is to make sure that the stake is inserted in the ground at an angle that will make the rope perpendicular or near perpendicular to the stake. That way the stake can't just be pulled straight out of the hole. The stakes should be in front of the wings a few feet, and a few feet outboard of the tie-down point on the wing, and then pounded in the ground at near a 45 degree angle. The tail stake should be a few inches behind the tailwheel, and maybe at a 30 degree or so angle (see the graphic in the article below).Here is an EAA article with plans for homebuilt "claw" type stakes. These could probably be built for $20 depending on how much of the material you may already have sitting around your shop.http://www.vintageaircraft.org/magazine ... n.pdfSteve RuseNorman, OK----- Original Message -----
Re: Pietenpol-List: Suggested product
Original Posted By: Ryan Mueller
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Suggested product
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Suggested product
RE: Pietenpol-List: Re: Suggested product
Original Posted By: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
Thanks, Mark, but the real credit goes to William Wynne for making coollooking stuff. I'm just happy to get the engine off the floor!!BTW - that firewall took 4 hours, including the wood formers (some oldparticle board shelves removed from the notorious kitchen remodel).Gary BootheCool, Ca.PietenpolWW Corvair ConversionTail done, Fuselage on gear(13 ribs down.)-----Original Message-----
Thanks, Mark, but the real credit goes to William Wynne for making coollooking stuff. I'm just happy to get the engine off the floor!!BTW - that firewall took 4 hours, including the wood formers (some oldparticle board shelves removed from the notorious kitchen remodel).Gary BootheCool, Ca.PietenpolWW Corvair ConversionTail done, Fuselage on gear(13 ribs down.)-----Original Message-----
Pietenpol-List: Re: Suggested product
Original Posted By: Michael Perez
Yep, WW's stuff is cool. I've been sold for a little while now and I plan to orderthe gold package that he was advertising at Brodhead. My heads are in theshop, crank will be there soon, next to tackle cylinders, pistons, rods. Ihope to work on my rebuild this winter. Keeping the thread intact... The firewall looks great too. Looks like a lot ofwork to make all those bends... very nicely done. What did you do exactly? Is there a special tool that makes those bends so uniform, Or did you grab a pairof pliers and start bending? Surely just another one of the many techniquesI haven't heard of or read about yet.--------Mark - working on wingsRead this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ______Date: Thu, 27 Aug 2009 06:09:34 -0700 (PDT)
Yep, WW's stuff is cool. I've been sold for a little while now and I plan to orderthe gold package that he was advertising at Brodhead. My heads are in theshop, crank will be there soon, next to tackle cylinders, pistons, rods. Ihope to work on my rebuild this winter. Keeping the thread intact... The firewall looks great too. Looks like a lot ofwork to make all those bends... very nicely done. What did you do exactly? Is there a special tool that makes those bends so uniform, Or did you grab a pairof pliers and start bending? Surely just another one of the many techniquesI haven't heard of or read about yet.--------Mark - working on wingsRead this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ______Date: Thu, 27 Aug 2009 06:09:34 -0700 (PDT)
Pietenpol-List: Re: ASSCO,inc
Original Posted By: TOM MICHELLE BRANT
I've only had a few dealings with AS&S. One order was for 90 sticks of 1/4"x1/2"capstrip. I would say that probably 15 - 20 sticks were bowed or twisted enoughto make me more than a little aggravated. I was able to straighten thema bit during the bending process, but I don't think I should have to do that.I set most of those aside for cutting diagonals and uprights. I know that theywant to know about any sub-par product, but I've heard that it is a bit ofa task. Another aggrivating experience was when I ordered my wood package...I was told that the wood packages normally leave the warehouse within 7-10 days...mine took >4 weeks. It was either 4 or 5, I'd have to look it up... butit wasn't the two week delivery I was told it would likely be. In addition tothat, during the several weeks of time that my wood kit was in cue or beingcut, there were several items that were filled on my order that were later placedon backorder. I'm not sure how they show an item pulled (or filled) for theorder that later becomes unavailable. Oh, I assume that they used these itemsto fill another order, but it wasn't right that I waited 3 weeks for my woodto be cut, and then another for them to fill the plywood requirement that wasalready completed a week earlier. There were some other items that were filledearly that we later placed on backorder that would have delayed my orderanother week or two... so I canceled those items. I like being able to checkmy order on the web, but they shouldn't post an item as filled and then changethe status to back order. If it wasn't available in the first place, that isone thing, but don't state that a certain item is filled and then pull it back.One other thing, and I don't know who's fault this is (the shipper or AS&S),but my plywood packaging was ripped open (looks like forklift forks). An inspectionconfirmed that the wood was not damaged other then a very minor andsand-able scratch. I hope it wasn't stressed in a way that isn't visually evident.I w! ill say that the wood package seems to be of very good quality. I honestly haven't takena complete inventory (I know... shame on me)... I hope it's all there. GPS STUFF...Lowrence is no Garmin, that is for sure! But, my experience with Garmin has beenfairly pleasant. I purchased a hand held (H2O) back in 2004... it was advertisedto be waterproof, vibe proof, etc., so I proceeded to RAM mount it to thehandlebars of my enduro. The first trip in the wilderness and rain renderedit useless... the screen was half blank and the other half was very faint. Very aggravating considering that was the main selling point of the H2O line.I'll admit, it was raining pretty good most of the day, but it's not like itwas submerged. Anyhow, I had the unit for quite a while (beyond the warranty),and the Lowrance folks swapped me out with a brand new unit with no hassle atall. I still have the unit that I received and it seems to be holding up well.I'll admit, I don't use it on my motorcycle unless I need it, but with alittle extra care it seems to keep working fine. I use it for vacations, astronomy,etc., so it gets tossed around a little. Ok, so I don't really have a lot of experience with Lowrance, but where I havehad to deal with them, it wasn't my worst experience. I chose them because theywere a local company, and because several people told me that they were ableto walk right into their facility and get replacement cables, transponders,etc. for fishing and GPS gear. Figured I'd give them a try. My brother has a Garmin e-trex Vista (similar to the H2O line)... while the e-trexis more compact, the functions are menu driven by a joystick, which is verydifficult to manipulate and find features unless you use it regularly. Thatis the BIG advantage to the more intuitive Lowrance products... very intuitivebutton layout and menus. On the other hand...I work with 6 or 7 former Lowranceemployees... their comments have really made me skeptical of consideringany more of their products. I know, FORMER EMPLOYEES, right? Well, several ofthem are very knowledgeable about the practices and product line, and theirassessment seems legit. Having said all that... I have a Garmin GPS MAP195 that I wouldn't trade for anyother unit. Simple and reliable... for my type of flying (mostly hanger flying)it is waay overkill.Steve... I have a card reader for my H2O that you are welcome to borrow if it willget your unit going. I'm assuming that all the Lowrance units use the sametype of card? Are you going to be in the Tulsa area anytime soon? If not,I can mail it down with the software. Being in Norman, you are probably a dirty,low down Sooners fan, but I won't hold that against you. Let me know if youwould like to try it.Holy smokes that was a long spiel... I'm bored.--------Mark - working on wingsRead this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... __________
I've only had a few dealings with AS&S. One order was for 90 sticks of 1/4"x1/2"capstrip. I would say that probably 15 - 20 sticks were bowed or twisted enoughto make me more than a little aggravated. I was able to straighten thema bit during the bending process, but I don't think I should have to do that.I set most of those aside for cutting diagonals and uprights. I know that theywant to know about any sub-par product, but I've heard that it is a bit ofa task. Another aggrivating experience was when I ordered my wood package...I was told that the wood packages normally leave the warehouse within 7-10 days...mine took >4 weeks. It was either 4 or 5, I'd have to look it up... butit wasn't the two week delivery I was told it would likely be. In addition tothat, during the several weeks of time that my wood kit was in cue or beingcut, there were several items that were filled on my order that were later placedon backorder. I'm not sure how they show an item pulled (or filled) for theorder that later becomes unavailable. Oh, I assume that they used these itemsto fill another order, but it wasn't right that I waited 3 weeks for my woodto be cut, and then another for them to fill the plywood requirement that wasalready completed a week earlier. There were some other items that were filledearly that we later placed on backorder that would have delayed my orderanother week or two... so I canceled those items. I like being able to checkmy order on the web, but they shouldn't post an item as filled and then changethe status to back order. If it wasn't available in the first place, that isone thing, but don't state that a certain item is filled and then pull it back.One other thing, and I don't know who's fault this is (the shipper or AS&S),but my plywood packaging was ripped open (looks like forklift forks). An inspectionconfirmed that the wood was not damaged other then a very minor andsand-able scratch. I hope it wasn't stressed in a way that isn't visually evident.I w! ill say that the wood package seems to be of very good quality. I honestly haven't takena complete inventory (I know... shame on me)... I hope it's all there. GPS STUFF...Lowrence is no Garmin, that is for sure! But, my experience with Garmin has beenfairly pleasant. I purchased a hand held (H2O) back in 2004... it was advertisedto be waterproof, vibe proof, etc., so I proceeded to RAM mount it to thehandlebars of my enduro. The first trip in the wilderness and rain renderedit useless... the screen was half blank and the other half was very faint. Very aggravating considering that was the main selling point of the H2O line.I'll admit, it was raining pretty good most of the day, but it's not like itwas submerged. Anyhow, I had the unit for quite a while (beyond the warranty),and the Lowrance folks swapped me out with a brand new unit with no hassle atall. I still have the unit that I received and it seems to be holding up well.I'll admit, I don't use it on my motorcycle unless I need it, but with alittle extra care it seems to keep working fine. I use it for vacations, astronomy,etc., so it gets tossed around a little. Ok, so I don't really have a lot of experience with Lowrance, but where I havehad to deal with them, it wasn't my worst experience. I chose them because theywere a local company, and because several people told me that they were ableto walk right into their facility and get replacement cables, transponders,etc. for fishing and GPS gear. Figured I'd give them a try. My brother has a Garmin e-trex Vista (similar to the H2O line)... while the e-trexis more compact, the functions are menu driven by a joystick, which is verydifficult to manipulate and find features unless you use it regularly. Thatis the BIG advantage to the more intuitive Lowrance products... very intuitivebutton layout and menus. On the other hand...I work with 6 or 7 former Lowranceemployees... their comments have really made me skeptical of consideringany more of their products. I know, FORMER EMPLOYEES, right? Well, several ofthem are very knowledgeable about the practices and product line, and theirassessment seems legit. Having said all that... I have a Garmin GPS MAP195 that I wouldn't trade for anyother unit. Simple and reliable... for my type of flying (mostly hanger flying)it is waay overkill.Steve... I have a card reader for my H2O that you are welcome to borrow if it willget your unit going. I'm assuming that all the Lowrance units use the sametype of card? Are you going to be in the Tulsa area anytime soon? If not,I can mail it down with the software. Being in Norman, you are probably a dirty,low down Sooners fan, but I won't hold that against you. Let me know if youwould like to try it.Holy smokes that was a long spiel... I'm bored.--------Mark - working on wingsRead this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... __________
RE: Pietenpol-List: Okoume and fuselage gussets
Original Posted By: speedbrake(at)sbcglobal.net
this is what I did. Okoume marine plywoodDate: Thu=2C 27 Aug 2009 06:09:34 -0700
this is what I did. Okoume marine plywoodDate: Thu=2C 27 Aug 2009 06:09:34 -0700
RE: Pietenpol-List: Re: Suggested product
Original Posted By: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
Mark,Yes, the tool is highly specialized! As you can see, I used some oldparticle board. You need two pieces; one with the 'flutes' carved into it (Iused a dremel) and another without the flutes - the back up piece. Youmerely sandwich the metal between the two pieces, clamp very tightly, andstart tapping. You can use fluting pliers (mine are made from an old pair ofvice grips) to help get the shape going, but what you really need is a dowelor steel tube of the right dimension, to hammer the metal down into theflutes. It is truly that easy! And galvanized bends very easily. Best wishes on your engine rebuild....Gary BootheCool, Ca.PietenpolWW Corvair ConversionTail done, Fuselage on gear(13 ribs down.)-----Original Message-----
Mark,Yes, the tool is highly specialized! As you can see, I used some oldparticle board. You need two pieces; one with the 'flutes' carved into it (Iused a dremel) and another without the flutes - the back up piece. Youmerely sandwich the metal between the two pieces, clamp very tightly, andstart tapping. You can use fluting pliers (mine are made from an old pair ofvice grips) to help get the shape going, but what you really need is a dowelor steel tube of the right dimension, to hammer the metal down into theflutes. It is truly that easy! And galvanized bends very easily. Best wishes on your engine rebuild....Gary BootheCool, Ca.PietenpolWW Corvair ConversionTail done, Fuselage on gear(13 ribs down.)-----Original Message-----
RE: Pietenpol-List: Suggested product
Original Posted By: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
Forget the Corvair (they almost always look good) and your sweet firewall; Iwant to know more about those spectacular wheels.Mike Hardaway -----Original Message-----
Forget the Corvair (they almost always look good) and your sweet firewall; Iwant to know more about those spectacular wheels.Mike Hardaway -----Original Message-----
RE: Pietenpol-List: Suggested product
Original Posted By: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
Mike,I got REALLY lucky on the wheels! A co-worker introduced me to one of ourcustomers at "Paughco" (www.paughco.com). As you can see from their site,they specialize in custom building motorcycles, worldwide. I was in a verygood position to give their "Wheel Guru" some help and advice on aconstruction application, which turned out to be profitable for him. Inreturn, he sold me 21" Harley Sportster wheels at cost - $368! With 1"bearings!Gary BootheCool, Ca.PietenpolWW Corvair ConversionTail done, Fuselage on gear(13 ribs down.)-----Original Message-----
Mike,I got REALLY lucky on the wheels! A co-worker introduced me to one of ourcustomers at "Paughco" (www.paughco.com). As you can see from their site,they specialize in custom building motorcycles, worldwide. I was in a verygood position to give their "Wheel Guru" some help and advice on aconstruction application, which turned out to be profitable for him. Inreturn, he sold me 21" Harley Sportster wheels at cost - $368! With 1"bearings!Gary BootheCool, Ca.PietenpolWW Corvair ConversionTail done, Fuselage on gear(13 ribs down.)-----Original Message-----
RE: Pietenpol-List: Re: ASSCO,inc
Original Posted By: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
That's good to hear, John..Now go take out the trash like the Mrs. told you!Gary BootheCool, Ca.PietenpolWW Corvair ConversionTail done, Fuselage on gear(13 ribs down.) _____
That's good to hear, John..Now go take out the trash like the Mrs. told you!Gary BootheCool, Ca.PietenpolWW Corvair ConversionTail done, Fuselage on gear(13 ribs down.) _____
RE: Pietenpol-List: Re: Suggested product
Original Posted By: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
It's the only good thing I learned during my journey thru the Dark Side (metal airplanes...)Gary BootheCool, Ca.PietenpolWW Corvair ConversionTail done, Fuselage on gear(13 ribs down.)-----Original Message-----
It's the only good thing I learned during my journey thru the Dark Side (metal airplanes...)Gary BootheCool, Ca.PietenpolWW Corvair ConversionTail done, Fuselage on gear(13 ribs down.)-----Original Message-----
RE: Pietenpol-List: Fuselage building and materialokume ply;
Original Posted By: "Bill Church"
I believe they are only required at the two locations shown, as reinforcement for landing gear attachment. Some builders have opted to use lightweight balsa filler wedges in other locations, to avoid water collection in the pockets (not a bad idea).=0A=0A=C2- =0ARegarding plywood, one important feature of Aircraft grade plywood is that it is manufactured using waterproof (actually boilproof) glues. This will prevent the plies from delaminating, should the wood somehow become soaked with water. An economical alternative to Aircraft grade plywood for the fuselage sides is the use of BS1088 or BS6566 Okoume Marine Ply (Okoume is a mahogany-like tropical wood).=C2-While it is not quite as strong as Aircraft ply made of Birch, it is apparently strong enough for this purpose, and is manufactured using waterproof (also boilproof) glues. In addition to the lower cost, it is also lighter (in weight, as well as color) than Birch, and available in 4' x 8' sheets. =0A=C2- =0AA couple of sources for Okoume Marine Ply: =0A=C2- =0A=C2- =0Ahttp://www.noahsmarine.com/ =0Ahttp://www.boulterplywood.com/ =0A=C2- =0ABill C. =C2- =C2-" rel=nofollow target=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Piet ... cs.comllow target=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution=0A =C2-=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A_________________ =C2- =C2-http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List=0A =C2-http://forums.matronics.com =C2-=0Ahttp://www.matronics.com/contribution =C2- =C2-=0A =C2-http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Piet ... ibution=0A =C2-" rel=nofollow target=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Piet ... cs.comllow target=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution=0 ... A=0A=0A=0A" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-Lista href="http://forums.matronics.com/" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A ________________________________________________________________________________Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Fuselage building and materialokume ply;Date: Thu, 27 Aug 2009 00:56:34 -0400
I believe they are only required at the two locations shown, as reinforcement for landing gear attachment. Some builders have opted to use lightweight balsa filler wedges in other locations, to avoid water collection in the pockets (not a bad idea).=0A=0A=C2- =0ARegarding plywood, one important feature of Aircraft grade plywood is that it is manufactured using waterproof (actually boilproof) glues. This will prevent the plies from delaminating, should the wood somehow become soaked with water. An economical alternative to Aircraft grade plywood for the fuselage sides is the use of BS1088 or BS6566 Okoume Marine Ply (Okoume is a mahogany-like tropical wood).=C2-While it is not quite as strong as Aircraft ply made of Birch, it is apparently strong enough for this purpose, and is manufactured using waterproof (also boilproof) glues. In addition to the lower cost, it is also lighter (in weight, as well as color) than Birch, and available in 4' x 8' sheets. =0A=C2- =0AA couple of sources for Okoume Marine Ply: =0A=C2- =0A=C2- =0Ahttp://www.noahsmarine.com/ =0Ahttp://www.boulterplywood.com/ =0A=C2- =0ABill C. =C2- =C2-" rel=nofollow target=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Piet ... cs.comllow target=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution=0A =C2-=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A_________________ =C2- =C2-http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List=0A =C2-http://forums.matronics.com =C2-=0Ahttp://www.matronics.com/contribution =C2- =C2-=0A =C2-http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Piet ... ibution=0A =C2-" rel=nofollow target=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Piet ... cs.comllow target=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution=0 ... A=0A=0A=0A" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-Lista href="http://forums.matronics.com/" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A ________________________________________________________________________________Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Fuselage building and materialokume ply;Date: Thu, 27 Aug 2009 00:56:34 -0400