Pietenpol-List: spar butt straps
Re: Pietenpol-List: Re: spar butt straps
Original Posted By: Ken Chambers
#yiv1659257443 .hmmessage P {PADDING-BOTTOM:0px;MARGIN:0px;PADDING-LEFT:0px;PADDING-RIGHT:0px;PADDING-TOP:0px;}#yiv1659257443 .hmmessage {FONT-FAMILY:Verdana;FONT-SIZE:10pt;}One question, are you going to bolt to the fuselage fittings-through the cabane itself?If so then why do you want anything in there? The only way an insert is going to addstrength in tension is if that insert has at least one more bolt through it and the strutan inch or so above the bottom hole. This is a good idea with aluminum. In this caseit's best to use a bar of aluminum.-It's not like using wood struts. What you do there is add metal plates to the outsidewith another bolt 1 1/2" above the one that bolts the strut to the fuselage. Thisicreases the area of the "plug" sides thus increasing the tearout resistance dramaticaly.-In both cases the idea is to strengthen the strut.-ClifThere is only about 5/16" of material below-the bolt hole on the bottom fitting (and above on the top fitting). With the loads and shock loads applied-by the strut the bolt would pull out the small chunk of wood below the bolt along the grain lines.- You would be much better off with-metal inserts.-- Ed G.-----> > I believe I have my posting woes fixed, so I am trying this again.> > I am using aluminum cabanes and am curious if a hard wood, (oak/ash) would be suitable for the inserts. I know most use some type of steel or aluminum, but since the fittings attach to soft spruce and ply wood gussets on the fuselage end, why not wood inside the cabanes?________________________________________________________________________________Date: Mon, 3 May 2010 10:06:08 -0500Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Re: spar butt straps
#yiv1659257443 .hmmessage P {PADDING-BOTTOM:0px;MARGIN:0px;PADDING-LEFT:0px;PADDING-RIGHT:0px;PADDING-TOP:0px;}#yiv1659257443 .hmmessage {FONT-FAMILY:Verdana;FONT-SIZE:10pt;}One question, are you going to bolt to the fuselage fittings-through the cabane itself?If so then why do you want anything in there? The only way an insert is going to addstrength in tension is if that insert has at least one more bolt through it and the strutan inch or so above the bottom hole. This is a good idea with aluminum. In this caseit's best to use a bar of aluminum.-It's not like using wood struts. What you do there is add metal plates to the outsidewith another bolt 1 1/2" above the one that bolts the strut to the fuselage. Thisicreases the area of the "plug" sides thus increasing the tearout resistance dramaticaly.-In both cases the idea is to strengthen the strut.-ClifThere is only about 5/16" of material below-the bolt hole on the bottom fitting (and above on the top fitting). With the loads and shock loads applied-by the strut the bolt would pull out the small chunk of wood below the bolt along the grain lines.- You would be much better off with-metal inserts.-- Ed G.-----> > I believe I have my posting woes fixed, so I am trying this again.> > I am using aluminum cabanes and am curious if a hard wood, (oak/ash) would be suitable for the inserts. I know most use some type of steel or aluminum, but since the fittings attach to soft spruce and ply wood gussets on the fuselage end, why not wood inside the cabanes?________________________________________________________________________________Date: Mon, 3 May 2010 10:06:08 -0500Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Re: spar butt straps
Pietenpol-List: spar butt straps
Original Posted By: Ken Chambers
Subject: Pietenpol-List: spar butt straps
Subject: Pietenpol-List: spar butt straps
RE: Pietenpol-List: spar butt straps
Original Posted By: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
I made mine the length shown on the plans and they worked fine. Thefittings that you might want to make longer are the ones that project awayfrom the structure where something else bolts to it. On the center sectionfittings these would be the tabs that the brace wires attach to and the tabsones that the vertical struts bolt to.ChrisSacramento, CaWestcoastpiet.com _____
I made mine the length shown on the plans and they worked fine. Thefittings that you might want to make longer are the ones that project awayfrom the structure where something else bolts to it. On the center sectionfittings these would be the tabs that the brace wires attach to and the tabsones that the vertical struts bolt to.ChrisSacramento, CaWestcoastpiet.com _____
Pietenpol-List: spar butt straps
Original Posted By: Jim Markle
Pietenpol-List: Re: spar butt straps
Original Posted By: "K5YAC"
I made my gap 1/4" too, like Ben did. Looks like it should provide plenty of roomfor covering, paint, etc.--------Mark - working on wingsRead this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ___Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: spar butt straps
I made my gap 1/4" too, like Ben did. Looks like it should provide plenty of roomfor covering, paint, etc.--------Mark - working on wingsRead this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ___Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: spar butt straps
Pietenpol-List: Re: Aileron to Wing Gap
Original Posted By: "Jerry Dotson"
Is this what you are talking about Jim?--------Mark - working on wingsRead this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ttachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_ ... ___Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Aileron to Wing Gap
Is this what you are talking about Jim?--------Mark - working on wingsRead this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ttachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_ ... ___Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Aileron to Wing Gap
Re: Pietenpol-List: spar butt straps
Original Posted By: "Jim Markle"
We followed the KeriAnn Price plans.....Greg Cardinal----- Original Message -----
We followed the KeriAnn Price plans.....Greg Cardinal----- Original Message -----
Original Posted By: "gcardinal"
Chris,Yeah what Ben said. I read but what you said it blew right by me. I will make mine1/4" also. I ripped and fitted the 1/2" by 3" spars this afternoon.--------Jerry Dotson59 Daniel Johnson RdBaker, FL 32531Started building NX510JD July, 2009Ribs and tailfeathers doneusing Lycoming O-235Read this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... __________
Chris,Yeah what Ben said. I read but what you said it blew right by me. I will make mine1/4" also. I ripped and fitted the 1/2" by 3" spars this afternoon.--------Jerry Dotson59 Daniel Johnson RdBaker, FL 32531Started building NX510JD July, 2009Ribs and tailfeathers doneusing Lycoming O-235Read this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... __________
Re: Pietenpol-List: Re: spar butt straps
Original Posted By: Ken Chambers
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Re: spar butt straps
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Re: spar butt straps
Re: Pietenpol-List: spar butt straps
Original Posted By: Rick Holland
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: spar butt straps
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: spar butt straps
Re: Pietenpol-List: Re: spar butt straps
Original Posted By: Ken Chambers
Hold on, I'm trying to sketch and scan a picture.Greg C. ----- Original Message -----
Hold on, I'm trying to sketch and scan a picture.Greg C. ----- Original Message -----
Re: Pietenpol-List: Re: spar butt straps
Original Posted By: Ken Chambers
Hopefully the attached PDF answers your question.Greg Cardinal ----- Original Message -----
Hopefully the attached PDF answers your question.Greg Cardinal ----- Original Message -----
RE: Pietenpol-List: Re: spar butt straps
Original Posted By: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
KenIf you take a look at the pictures on my wing building page you will how Idrilled almost every hole with hand drill and a simple drillguide.http://westcoastpiet.com/wings.htm A small drill press does come inhandy for drilling some of the holes but I see no reason why you could notdrill all the holes by hand. For a description on how I drill hole see thiswebpage http://westcoastpiet.com/drilling_holes.htm The only thing I dodifferent is to clamp the drill guide on when possible. Now I typicallydrill the starting holes on my drill press but you could center punch thespot then use a drill guide with a notch to straddle the fitting. Justclapm it to a flat surface and your all set. Kind of like a poor mans drillpress. I bet you could find somone with a drill press to drill you someholes to make severl drill guides. _____
KenIf you take a look at the pictures on my wing building page you will how Idrilled almost every hole with hand drill and a simple drillguide.http://westcoastpiet.com/wings.htm A small drill press does come inhandy for drilling some of the holes but I see no reason why you could notdrill all the holes by hand. For a description on how I drill hole see thiswebpage http://westcoastpiet.com/drilling_holes.htm The only thing I dodifferent is to clamp the drill guide on when possible. Now I typicallydrill the starting holes on my drill press but you could center punch thespot then use a drill guide with a notch to straddle the fitting. Justclapm it to a flat surface and your all set. Kind of like a poor mans drillpress. I bet you could find somone with a drill press to drill you someholes to make severl drill guides. _____
Re: Pietenpol-List: Re: spar butt straps
Original Posted By: Rick Holland
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Re: spar butt straps
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Re: spar butt straps
Re: Pietenpol-List: Re: spar butt straps
Original Posted By: "Clif Dawson"
The image here shows a small bench model drill pressbeing used to drill the holes for the landing gear plates.You can do the same with anything that can be jiggedup on your bench. Drill press would be a real good idea, rick________________________________________________________________________________
The image here shows a small bench model drill pressbeing used to drill the holes for the landing gear plates.You can do the same with anything that can be jiggedup on your bench. Drill press would be a real good idea, rick________________________________________________________________________________