Original Posted By: Oscar Zuniga
=0A=0A=0A Graham and others- I know exactly what the issue is with my front main seal. When the engine was converted from an A65 and everything was gone through=2C the crank was overhauled as well. What was missed was the step that Continental requires here: http://www.aeronca.org/ContinentalSB-M76-4.pdf . Plating is removed from an area about 1" wide on the front of the crank where the seal rides=2C and once it's perfectly smooth a 30 degree pattern is cut into the surface with 180 grit emery cloth to act as a sort of 'screw' to continuously feed any seepage back into the crankcase. I have a replacement seal (two of them=2C actually=2C since I may mess up on the first attempt). It is close work and requires patience. Oh yeah=2C and I've never done it before =3Bo) Oscar ZunigaMedford=2C ORAir Camper NX41CC "Scout"A75 power=0A ________________________________________________________________________________
Pietenpol-List: leaking Continental front main seal
Re: Pietenpol-List: leaking Continental front main seal
Original Posted By: "Jack Phillips"
Oscar Hi.Commiserations on needing to do Prop seal.I have had to do it and in truth two things to say.Buying two Seals - great! As you can guess you'll only need one and all will gowell.I think I took Prop off just to give a bit more space. I also worked from abovethe flange on a step of some sorts.The spring inside the seal I adjusted the 'hook' ends, compressed them so it readilycoupled and stayed together when pushed into seal.The last action involved carefully prising seal over crank into recess ensuringit was lubricated.In truth it was a lot less traumatic than I envisaged. It will be fine.RegardsGerry________________________________________________________________________________
Oscar Hi.Commiserations on needing to do Prop seal.I have had to do it and in truth two things to say.Buying two Seals - great! As you can guess you'll only need one and all will gowell.I think I took Prop off just to give a bit more space. I also worked from abovethe flange on a step of some sorts.The spring inside the seal I adjusted the 'hook' ends, compressed them so it readilycoupled and stayed together when pushed into seal.The last action involved carefully prising seal over crank into recess ensuringit was lubricated.In truth it was a lot less traumatic than I envisaged. It will be fine.RegardsGerry________________________________________________________________________________
Pietenpol-List: Re: leaking Continental front main seal
Original Posted By: "taildrags"
Back at the hangar this afternoon, another beautiful day! The airplane startswonderfully and predictably now, and I had no trouble starting it, cold or hot.Still no joy on resolving the carb heat issue though. I removed the air filterand ran the engine... no change whatsoever. Cross that off the list. Iremoved all four intake tubes from the spiders, including the clamps and hosefittings, and inspected everything. Nothing cracked, nothing brittle, nothingsuspect- so I reassembled all the intake tubes and snugged down all the clampsand ran the engine again. Still no change; cross that off the list. Oh yeah,and I had asked somebody (Gary) about adjusting the idle mixture. The enginespeeds up just as it quits when the fuel shutoff is pulled and the engine isallowed to run out of fuel, so I think the idle mixture is correct.My A&P friend had suggested checking the mixture control disks in the Strombergcarb, since they can sometimes get cocked when not assembled properly and theycan allow air to go around the plates rather than through the metering holes.Unwired the mixture lever, pulled the mixture assembly cover and disks, cleanedand inspected, reassembled and re-safetied. Ran the engine again... no change.We're eliminating possibilities right and left.The next suspect is the diverter butterfly in the carb heat box. There is a slightgap between the edge of the butterfly and the body of the box, and thereis a possibility that at higher airflows and engine speeds, the air is taken partiallythrough the filter and partially through the hot air bypass and setsup a swirl or confused airflow into the carb. I'm going to adjust the butterflyand the carb heat actuation lever to make sure that the butterfly seals tightlywhen the carb heat is off. Next weekend ;o)I did get to taxi the airplane a bit with the new tailwheel and found that theMatco has its pros and cons over the Scott 2000. When the Matco goes into freecastoring, which it does readily, I can pivot the airplane effortlessly on onemain and maneuver it in very sharp turns. The downside is that it takes brakesand rudder to get it back into steering mode, a conscious effort comparedto the Scott, which could almost read my mind. Some people have said that theyleave a little slack in the tailwheel springs and cables and this helps, butI'll have to operate the airplane a little more as-is to see if I want to addslack. I don't like the idea too much.--------Oscar ZunigaMedford, ORAir Camper NX41CC "Scout"A75 powerRead this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ___Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: leaking Continental front main seal
Back at the hangar this afternoon, another beautiful day! The airplane startswonderfully and predictably now, and I had no trouble starting it, cold or hot.Still no joy on resolving the carb heat issue though. I removed the air filterand ran the engine... no change whatsoever. Cross that off the list. Iremoved all four intake tubes from the spiders, including the clamps and hosefittings, and inspected everything. Nothing cracked, nothing brittle, nothingsuspect- so I reassembled all the intake tubes and snugged down all the clampsand ran the engine again. Still no change; cross that off the list. Oh yeah,and I had asked somebody (Gary) about adjusting the idle mixture. The enginespeeds up just as it quits when the fuel shutoff is pulled and the engine isallowed to run out of fuel, so I think the idle mixture is correct.My A&P friend had suggested checking the mixture control disks in the Strombergcarb, since they can sometimes get cocked when not assembled properly and theycan allow air to go around the plates rather than through the metering holes.Unwired the mixture lever, pulled the mixture assembly cover and disks, cleanedand inspected, reassembled and re-safetied. Ran the engine again... no change.We're eliminating possibilities right and left.The next suspect is the diverter butterfly in the carb heat box. There is a slightgap between the edge of the butterfly and the body of the box, and thereis a possibility that at higher airflows and engine speeds, the air is taken partiallythrough the filter and partially through the hot air bypass and setsup a swirl or confused airflow into the carb. I'm going to adjust the butterflyand the carb heat actuation lever to make sure that the butterfly seals tightlywhen the carb heat is off. Next weekend ;o)I did get to taxi the airplane a bit with the new tailwheel and found that theMatco has its pros and cons over the Scott 2000. When the Matco goes into freecastoring, which it does readily, I can pivot the airplane effortlessly on onemain and maneuver it in very sharp turns. The downside is that it takes brakesand rudder to get it back into steering mode, a conscious effort comparedto the Scott, which could almost read my mind. Some people have said that theyleave a little slack in the tailwheel springs and cables and this helps, butI'll have to operate the airplane a little more as-is to see if I want to addslack. I don't like the idea too much.--------Oscar ZunigaMedford, ORAir Camper NX41CC "Scout"A75 powerRead this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ___Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: leaking Continental front main seal