Original Posted By: Matt Dralle
Hello!recently I hear from one man, experienced aircraft builder, that instead of varnishingribs and spars with wood varnish, I should use the spare glue (resin,epoxy 1200 I use) mixed with technical alcohol and apply it on the wood. One layeris enough, the surface of the wood will be perfectly threatened.As far as I know, a classic wood varnish also gets inside the wood and hardensit, while the second effect is that it creates a protective layer on the surface.What do you think about the advice, do you have any experience with the advisedmethod?Thanks!Vasek--------My production of WW1 propellers, trophies and constructions:Read this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ______Date: Mon, 17 Nov 2014 00:12:22 -0800
Pietenpol-List: Wood varnish or epoxy1200?
RE: Pietenpol-List: Wood varnish or epoxy1200?
Original Posted By: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
Vasek,I've seen that technique done on an Osprey 2 Amphibian, using West SystemEpoxy. However, that is the only plane I've seen it done on, and I lostcontact with that project - don't know if it ever flew, or what long termeffects that treatment produced.I think doing that would probably cost more (epoxy is not cheap!) and bemore labor intensive than using varnish. I think the same or better resultscould be produced by using a good epoxy varnish, such as PolyFiber's. Iused it on my Pietenpol, including my spruce landing gear struts which takea lot of abuse from weather, sun, weeds, oil, etc. and are still as goodtoday as they were when varnished 15 years ago.Good luck!Jack PhillipsNX899JPSmith Mountain Lake, Virginia-----Original Message-----
Vasek,I've seen that technique done on an Osprey 2 Amphibian, using West SystemEpoxy. However, that is the only plane I've seen it done on, and I lostcontact with that project - don't know if it ever flew, or what long termeffects that treatment produced.I think doing that would probably cost more (epoxy is not cheap!) and bemore labor intensive than using varnish. I think the same or better resultscould be produced by using a good epoxy varnish, such as PolyFiber's. Iused it on my Pietenpol, including my spruce landing gear struts which takea lot of abuse from weather, sun, weeds, oil, etc. and are still as goodtoday as they were when varnished 15 years ago.Good luck!Jack PhillipsNX899JPSmith Mountain Lake, Virginia-----Original Message-----
Pietenpol-List: Re: Wood varnish or epoxy1200?
Original Posted By: "Vasek"
Jeff,Consider this...If your electrical bus is powered on during startup, the electrical spike fromthe starter pull switch could possibly trash radio's, transponder, etc. Also,if jump starting, or connecting a charger to battery, etc., you could accidentallycause a spike on your electrical system.As we all know, Murphy's law tells us that at exactly the time a switch is lefton accidentally, the spike will happen...One of the purposes of a Master Switch and/or Avionics Master is to isolate yourpricey electronics from spikes. etc.I agree with you; it would appear better to either replace with a toggle switchof some sort - to eliminate the Solenoid pull in / hold in current, or have someother form of low power dissipation device to eliminate the current draw.--------Tom KreinerRead this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ___Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Wood varnish or epoxy1200?
Jeff,Consider this...If your electrical bus is powered on during startup, the electrical spike fromthe starter pull switch could possibly trash radio's, transponder, etc. Also,if jump starting, or connecting a charger to battery, etc., you could accidentallycause a spike on your electrical system.As we all know, Murphy's law tells us that at exactly the time a switch is lefton accidentally, the spike will happen...One of the purposes of a Master Switch and/or Avionics Master is to isolate yourpricey electronics from spikes. etc.I agree with you; it would appear better to either replace with a toggle switchof some sort - to eliminate the Solenoid pull in / hold in current, or have someother form of low power dissipation device to eliminate the current draw.--------Tom KreinerRead this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ___Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Wood varnish or epoxy1200?
Re: Pietenpol-List: rivets
Original Posted By: "Charles N. Campbell"
Thanks Jack!Your aircraft looks perfect!
--------My production of WW1 propellers, trophies and constructions:Read this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ______Date: Tue, 18 Nov 2014 06:21:10 -0500Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: rivets
Thanks Jack!Your aircraft looks perfect!
--------My production of WW1 propellers, trophies and constructions:Read this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ______Date: Tue, 18 Nov 2014 06:21:10 -0500Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: rivetsRe: Pietenpol-List: rivets
Original Posted By: "Greg Cardinal"
John, I believe regular rivets look better. With practice they are pretty simple to drive. You will need a gun made for driving rivets ($150 +) and a couple different bucking bars (($15+) and rivets (less than pop rivets). You can choose between regular and flat head. This is a very basic description. I believe Vans Aircraft has a practice kit available. Google it and you will have tons of more accurate info than I have shared...JackSent from my iPad> On Nov 17, 2014, at 3:03 PM, "John Greenlee" wrote:> > Hello, Good People,> > I am in the midst of making new cowlings for my Ford powered Air Camper. The original motor cowl I had assembled with commercial pop rivets=94easy to do, and the tools were at hand. I have started wondering whether it should be assembled with aircraft type rivets. This is a non structural part so probably no real advantage other than cosmetics.> > My questions for the assembled Pietenpol Brain Trust:> > 1. How much difference would this really make?> 2. How difficult are the bucked rivets to install?> 3. What is required tool wise? I have an appropriate compressor and air chisel. Are there appropriate rivet driving tools for the chisel or is a more specialized tool required? Cost of usable tools?> > Any advice on this topic is appreciated and some of it might even be followed.> > Ezra Styles> (John Greenlee)> > > > > 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D> ________________________________________________________________________________
John, I believe regular rivets look better. With practice they are pretty simple to drive. You will need a gun made for driving rivets ($150 +) and a couple different bucking bars (($15+) and rivets (less than pop rivets). You can choose between regular and flat head. This is a very basic description. I believe Vans Aircraft has a practice kit available. Google it and you will have tons of more accurate info than I have shared...JackSent from my iPad> On Nov 17, 2014, at 3:03 PM, "John Greenlee" wrote:> > Hello, Good People,> > I am in the midst of making new cowlings for my Ford powered Air Camper. The original motor cowl I had assembled with commercial pop rivets=94easy to do, and the tools were at hand. I have started wondering whether it should be assembled with aircraft type rivets. This is a non structural part so probably no real advantage other than cosmetics.> > My questions for the assembled Pietenpol Brain Trust:> > 1. How much difference would this really make?> 2. How difficult are the bucked rivets to install?> 3. What is required tool wise? I have an appropriate compressor and air chisel. Are there appropriate rivet driving tools for the chisel or is a more specialized tool required? Cost of usable tools?> > Any advice on this topic is appreciated and some of it might even be followed.> > Ezra Styles> (John Greenlee)> > > > > 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D> ________________________________________________________________________________
Re: Pietenpol-List: rivets
Original Posted By: John Greenlee
John,Are you talking about aircraft grade pop rivets, or hardware store pop rivets?The nose bowl on NX18235 was assembled with hardware store pop rivets and they didn't last very long. They were replaced with bucked aircraft rivets which have held up much better.Bucking rivets is not difficult and tooling can be found here:http://www.aircraft-tool.com/You'll need a rivet gun, a couple of basic bucking bars, clecos and cleco pliers. This is not a huge investment. Do you have an air compressor?Greg Cardinal ----- Original Message -----
John,Are you talking about aircraft grade pop rivets, or hardware store pop rivets?The nose bowl on NX18235 was assembled with hardware store pop rivets and they didn't last very long. They were replaced with bucked aircraft rivets which have held up much better.Bucking rivets is not difficult and tooling can be found here:http://www.aircraft-tool.com/You'll need a rivet gun, a couple of basic bucking bars, clecos and cleco pliers. This is not a huge investment. Do you have an air compressor?Greg Cardinal ----- Original Message -----
RE: Pietenpol-List: rivets
Original Posted By: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
John,You've already gotten some good advice. Hardware store pop rivets are verysoft and likely won't last long under the buffeting and vibration that acowling receives.My first riveting experience was building the cowling for my Pietenpol, butI was fortunate in that I learned a lot about the design of riveted jointswhen working for General Dynamics on the F-16 program back in the 1970's.Also, the fellow who was at the time the Technical Counselor of our EAAChapter was an experienced builder who had built an RV-4. He taught me aLOT when I was riveting the cowling on my Pietenpol. Now I'm building anRV-10 and have had the experience so far of shooting several thousand rivetson it.There are basically three ways of installing regualr solid rivets:Squeezing them (always my first choice, if the rivet is close enough to anedge to allow reaching it with a squeezer), shooting them with a C-Arm ifthey are 22" or less from an edge, or bucking them (always the last choicebecause it is the most difficult and often takes two people).Using an air-chisel will not give you consistently good results and you arelikely to over drive many of the rivets. You need a good rivet gun,preferably a 2X or 3X from a reputable manufacturer (NOT Harbor Freight),either for bucking rivets or using a C-Arm. I recommend buying tools fromAvery Tools in Fort Worth, Texas. They are airplane builders themselves andhave everything you need. Check out http://www.averytools.com/ .Are you a member of a local EAA Chapter? If so, chances are someone in thechapter has all the tools you need. If this is the only rivet job you willever do, it is silly to spend several hundred dollars buying tools for justthis job.Here are the tools you will need to either borrow or buy:* Rivet Squeezer with dies for 3/32" rivets (most likley size) and/or1/8" rivets* Rivet gun, preferably a 2X or 3X* Rivet sets for 3/32" and 1/8" rivets, pluse mushroom set if usingflush rivets* A selection of bucking bars. If you have to buy just one, I'd buythis one: http://www.averytools.com/prodinfo.asp?number=620 . If you canafford it, a Tunsten bucking bar works much better than a steel one, butthey are pretty spendy* A Cleco tool, and at least a dozen cleco's, 3/32" and 1/8"* A C-Arm, such as:http://www.averytools.com/prodinfo.asp?number=1001* Drill bits: #40 for 3/32" rivets, #30 for 1/8" rivets* A DeBurring tool. The best I've found is:http://www.averytools.com/prodinfo.asp?number=1046* A center punch to locate the holes before drilling* A rivet gage to verify that the rivets are properly driven. Try:http://www.averytools.com/prodinfo.asp?number=1007* AN470AD3 and AN470AD4 rivets if using protruding head rivets,AN426AD3 and AN426AD4 rivets if using flush rivets. If using flush rivetsyou will also need the prropriate sized dimpling dies to produce thecountersink (don't try to machine countersink thin aluminum sheet - it willmake too large a hole and the rivet will be loose). The dash numbers of therivets correspond to the length. If using .025" aluminum sheet, you willwant -4 length rivets or -4.5 if available. Be sure you use AD rivets, notA. AD rivets are hardened and much stronger. Once you have the tools, you need to practice. Use some scrap aluminum ofthe same thickness as your cowling and practice driving rivets until you cando every one perfectly. If you have any questions and don't have a TechCounselor who can help you, give me a call at (919) 427-4440. I canprobably walk you through it over the phone.Jack PhillipsNX899JPSmith Mountain Lake, Virginia _____
John,You've already gotten some good advice. Hardware store pop rivets are verysoft and likely won't last long under the buffeting and vibration that acowling receives.My first riveting experience was building the cowling for my Pietenpol, butI was fortunate in that I learned a lot about the design of riveted jointswhen working for General Dynamics on the F-16 program back in the 1970's.Also, the fellow who was at the time the Technical Counselor of our EAAChapter was an experienced builder who had built an RV-4. He taught me aLOT when I was riveting the cowling on my Pietenpol. Now I'm building anRV-10 and have had the experience so far of shooting several thousand rivetson it.There are basically three ways of installing regualr solid rivets:Squeezing them (always my first choice, if the rivet is close enough to anedge to allow reaching it with a squeezer), shooting them with a C-Arm ifthey are 22" or less from an edge, or bucking them (always the last choicebecause it is the most difficult and often takes two people).Using an air-chisel will not give you consistently good results and you arelikely to over drive many of the rivets. You need a good rivet gun,preferably a 2X or 3X from a reputable manufacturer (NOT Harbor Freight),either for bucking rivets or using a C-Arm. I recommend buying tools fromAvery Tools in Fort Worth, Texas. They are airplane builders themselves andhave everything you need. Check out http://www.averytools.com/ .Are you a member of a local EAA Chapter? If so, chances are someone in thechapter has all the tools you need. If this is the only rivet job you willever do, it is silly to spend several hundred dollars buying tools for justthis job.Here are the tools you will need to either borrow or buy:* Rivet Squeezer with dies for 3/32" rivets (most likley size) and/or1/8" rivets* Rivet gun, preferably a 2X or 3X* Rivet sets for 3/32" and 1/8" rivets, pluse mushroom set if usingflush rivets* A selection of bucking bars. If you have to buy just one, I'd buythis one: http://www.averytools.com/prodinfo.asp?number=620 . If you canafford it, a Tunsten bucking bar works much better than a steel one, butthey are pretty spendy* A Cleco tool, and at least a dozen cleco's, 3/32" and 1/8"* A C-Arm, such as:http://www.averytools.com/prodinfo.asp?number=1001* Drill bits: #40 for 3/32" rivets, #30 for 1/8" rivets* A DeBurring tool. The best I've found is:http://www.averytools.com/prodinfo.asp?number=1046* A center punch to locate the holes before drilling* A rivet gage to verify that the rivets are properly driven. Try:http://www.averytools.com/prodinfo.asp?number=1007* AN470AD3 and AN470AD4 rivets if using protruding head rivets,AN426AD3 and AN426AD4 rivets if using flush rivets. If using flush rivetsyou will also need the prropriate sized dimpling dies to produce thecountersink (don't try to machine countersink thin aluminum sheet - it willmake too large a hole and the rivet will be loose). The dash numbers of therivets correspond to the length. If using .025" aluminum sheet, you willwant -4 length rivets or -4.5 if available. Be sure you use AD rivets, notA. AD rivets are hardened and much stronger. Once you have the tools, you need to practice. Use some scrap aluminum ofthe same thickness as your cowling and practice driving rivets until you cando every one perfectly. If you have any questions and don't have a TechCounselor who can help you, give me a call at (919) 427-4440. I canprobably walk you through it over the phone.Jack PhillipsNX899JPSmith Mountain Lake, Virginia _____
Re: Pietenpol-List: rivets
Original Posted By:> owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-pietenpol-li
What Jack P, Greg and Michael said...Sent from my iPad> On Nov 18, 2014, at 7:22 AM, "Jack Phillips" wrote:> > John,> > You=99ve already gotten some good advice. Hardware store pop rivets are very soft and likely won=99t last long under the buffeting and vibration that a cowling receives.> > My first riveting experience was building the cowling for my Pietenpol, but I was fortunate in that I learned a lot about the design of riveted joints when working for General Dynamics on the F-16 program back in the 1970=99s. Also, the fellow who was at the time the Technical Counselor of our EAA Chapter was an experienced builder who had built an RV-4. He taught me a LOT when I was riveting the cowling on my Pietenpol. Now I=99m building an RV-10 and have had the experience so far of shooting several thousand rivets on it.> > There are basically three ways of installing regualr solid rivets: Squeezing them (always my first choice, if the rivet is close enough to an edge to allow reaching it with a squeezer), shooting them with a C-Arm if they are 22=9D or less from an edge, or bucking them (always the last choice because it is the most difficult and often takes two people).> > Using an air-chisel will not give you consistently good results and you are likely to over drive many of the rivets. You need a good rivet gun, preferably a 2X or 3X from a reputable manufacturer (NOT Harbor Freight), either for bucking rivets or using a C-Arm. I recommend buying tools from Avery Tools in Fort Worth, Texas. They are airplane builders themselves and have everything you need. Check out http://www.averytools.com/ .> > Are you a member of a local EAA Chapter? If so, chances are someone in the chapter has all the tools you need. If this is the only rivet job you will ever do, it is silly to spend several hundred dollars buying tools for just this job.> > Here are the tools you will need to either borrow or buy:> > Rivet Squeezer with dies for 3/32=9D rivets (most likley size) and/or 1/8=9D rivets> Rivet gun, preferably a 2X or 3X> Rivet sets for 3/32=9D and 1/8=9D rivets, pluse mushroom set if using flush rivets> A selection of bucking bars. If you have to buy just one, I=99d buy this one: http://www.averytools.com/prodinfo.asp?number=620 . If you can afford it, a Tunsten bucking bar works much better than a steel one, but they are pretty spendy> A Cleco tool, and at least a dozen cleco=99s, 3/32=9D and 1/8=9D> A C-Arm, such as: http://www.averytools.com/prodinfo.asp?number=1001> Drill bits: #40 for 3/32=9D rivets, #30 for 1/8=9D rivets> A DeBurring tool. The best I=99ve found is: http://www.averytools.com/prodinfo.asp?number=1046> A center punch to locate the holes before drilling> A rivet gage to verify that the rivets are properly driven. Try: http://www.averytools.com/prodinfo.asp?number=1007> AN470AD3 and AN470AD4 rivets if using protruding head rivets, AN426AD3 and AN426AD4 rivets if using flush rivets. If using flush rivets you will also need the prropriate sized dimpling dies to produce the countersink (don=99t try to machine countersink thin aluminum sheet =93 it will make too large a hole and the rivet will be loose). The dash numbers of the rivets correspond to the length. If using .025=9D aluminum sheet, you will want -4 length rivets or -4.5 if available. Be sure you use AD rivets, not A. AD rivets are hardened and much stronger. > > > Once you have the tools, you need to practice. Use some scrap aluminum of the same thickness as your cowling and practice driving rivets until you can do every one perfectly. If you have any questions and don=99t have a Tech Counselor who can help you, give me a call at (919) 427-4440. I can probably walk you through it over the phone.> > Jack Phillips> NX899JP> Smith Mountain Lake, Virginia>
What Jack P, Greg and Michael said...Sent from my iPad> On Nov 18, 2014, at 7:22 AM, "Jack Phillips" wrote:> > John,> > You=99ve already gotten some good advice. Hardware store pop rivets are very soft and likely won=99t last long under the buffeting and vibration that a cowling receives.> > My first riveting experience was building the cowling for my Pietenpol, but I was fortunate in that I learned a lot about the design of riveted joints when working for General Dynamics on the F-16 program back in the 1970=99s. Also, the fellow who was at the time the Technical Counselor of our EAA Chapter was an experienced builder who had built an RV-4. He taught me a LOT when I was riveting the cowling on my Pietenpol. Now I=99m building an RV-10 and have had the experience so far of shooting several thousand rivets on it.> > There are basically three ways of installing regualr solid rivets: Squeezing them (always my first choice, if the rivet is close enough to an edge to allow reaching it with a squeezer), shooting them with a C-Arm if they are 22=9D or less from an edge, or bucking them (always the last choice because it is the most difficult and often takes two people).> > Using an air-chisel will not give you consistently good results and you are likely to over drive many of the rivets. You need a good rivet gun, preferably a 2X or 3X from a reputable manufacturer (NOT Harbor Freight), either for bucking rivets or using a C-Arm. I recommend buying tools from Avery Tools in Fort Worth, Texas. They are airplane builders themselves and have everything you need. Check out http://www.averytools.com/ .> > Are you a member of a local EAA Chapter? If so, chances are someone in the chapter has all the tools you need. If this is the only rivet job you will ever do, it is silly to spend several hundred dollars buying tools for just this job.> > Here are the tools you will need to either borrow or buy:> > Rivet Squeezer with dies for 3/32=9D rivets (most likley size) and/or 1/8=9D rivets> Rivet gun, preferably a 2X or 3X> Rivet sets for 3/32=9D and 1/8=9D rivets, pluse mushroom set if using flush rivets> A selection of bucking bars. If you have to buy just one, I=99d buy this one: http://www.averytools.com/prodinfo.asp?number=620 . If you can afford it, a Tunsten bucking bar works much better than a steel one, but they are pretty spendy> A Cleco tool, and at least a dozen cleco=99s, 3/32=9D and 1/8=9D> A C-Arm, such as: http://www.averytools.com/prodinfo.asp?number=1001> Drill bits: #40 for 3/32=9D rivets, #30 for 1/8=9D rivets> A DeBurring tool. The best I=99ve found is: http://www.averytools.com/prodinfo.asp?number=1046> A center punch to locate the holes before drilling> A rivet gage to verify that the rivets are properly driven. Try: http://www.averytools.com/prodinfo.asp?number=1007> AN470AD3 and AN470AD4 rivets if using protruding head rivets, AN426AD3 and AN426AD4 rivets if using flush rivets. If using flush rivets you will also need the prropriate sized dimpling dies to produce the countersink (don=99t try to machine countersink thin aluminum sheet =93 it will make too large a hole and the rivet will be loose). The dash numbers of the rivets correspond to the length. If using .025=9D aluminum sheet, you will want -4 length rivets or -4.5 if available. Be sure you use AD rivets, not A. AD rivets are hardened and much stronger. > > > Once you have the tools, you need to practice. Use some scrap aluminum of the same thickness as your cowling and practice driving rivets until you can do every one perfectly. If you have any questions and don=99t have a Tech Counselor who can help you, give me a call at (919) 427-4440. I can probably walk you through it over the phone.> > Jack Phillips> NX899JP> Smith Mountain Lake, Virginia>
RE: Pietenpol-List: rivets
Original Posted By: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
John,Just so you have a complete picture, as Charles said, Zenith aircraft use Avex pop rivets, which is what I used. The rivets look like countersunk rivets, but you modify the pulling head by grinding a hollow in it. When the rivet is pulled, it forms a domed head. They are designed so that the center piece does not fall out. Not only did I use these on my cowling, but also on my fuel tank (along with Pro-seal). Gary BootheNX308MB
John,Just so you have a complete picture, as Charles said, Zenith aircraft use Avex pop rivets, which is what I used. The rivets look like countersunk rivets, but you modify the pulling head by grinding a hollow in it. When the rivet is pulled, it forms a domed head. They are designed so that the center piece does not fall out. Not only did I use these on my cowling, but also on my fuel tank (along with Pro-seal). Gary BootheNX308MB
RE: Pietenpol-List: rivets
Original Posted By: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
I wouldn't change a thing
I wouldn't change a thing
Pietenpol-List: New home
Original Posted By: Matt Dralle
Finally the beast has a new home. For a whileat least. This is the RAA hanger at DeltaAirpark. In the spring it'll move into the club'sshop at the East end of the hanger.Now I've got room to put the wings on!!! :-)http://www.deltaheritageairpark.org/ClifNot a shred of evidence exists in favor of the idea that life is serious. -Brendan Gill________________________________________________________________________________Date: Wed, 19 Nov 2014 00:08:57 -0800
Finally the beast has a new home. For a whileat least. This is the RAA hanger at DeltaAirpark. In the spring it'll move into the club'sshop at the East end of the hanger.Now I've got room to put the wings on!!! :-)http://www.deltaheritageairpark.org/ClifNot a shred of evidence exists in favor of the idea that life is serious. -Brendan Gill________________________________________________________________________________Date: Wed, 19 Nov 2014 00:08:57 -0800
RE: Pietenpol-List: New home
Original Posted By: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
Looks like a nice home!Gary BootheNX308MB
Looks like a nice home!Gary BootheNX308MB
Re: Pietenpol-List: New home
Original Posted By: "Gary Boothe"
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