Original Posted By: steve(at)byu.edu
Was down in the "airplane factory" tonite and had to make a small woodenbox to keep stuff in. Well, dad always taught me to glue something tokeep it tite. So I looked for the "Elmers" on the shelf, but spottedthe " yellow furniture glue" first. It was Titebond ll. Holy moly,this is what people are going to build a plane with? First of all ifyou look on the label it says not to use below waterline. What if youget rain at a flyin and a little puddle lays back near the sternpost ofthe fuselage? Is a little while ok? When will it desolve? This bottle has to be 15 years old and the price is $2.99 for 8 oz. ( 8oz. 1/2 pint, 16 oz.pint, 2 pintsqt.) a quart of T88 is about$25.00 from Aircraft Spruce ( a better deal at twice the price)Maybe flour and water is an option.waltWas down in the airplanefactorytonite and had to make a small wooden box to keep stuff in. Well,dadalways taught me to glue something to keep it tite. So I lookedfor theElmers on the shelf, but spotted the yellow furnitureglue first. It was Titebond ll. Holy moly, this iswhat peopleare going to build a plane with? First of all if you look on thelabel itsays not to use below waterline. What if you get rain at a flyinand alittle puddle lays back near the sternpost of the fuselage? Is alittlewhile ok? When will it desolve?This bottle has to be 15 yearsold and theprice is $2.99 for 8 oz. ( 8 oz. 1/2 pint, 16 oz.pint, 2pintsqt.) aquart of T88 is about $25.00 from Aircraft Spruce ( a better deal attwice theprice)Maybe flour and water is anoption.walt________________________________________________________________________________
Pietenpol-List: holy moly
Pietenpol-List: RE:
Original Posted By: Gordon Brimhall
> anybody know the reason for that? If it is because of> the wear factor from your feet. could I just use some> type of high wear sleeve. or is it a weight or> strength issue.>You would wear out a lot of tennis shoes before doing any damage to therudder bar because of wear.Fly BarefootSteve E.________________________________________________________________________________
> anybody know the reason for that? If it is because of> the wear factor from your feet. could I just use some> type of high wear sleeve. or is it a weight or> strength issue.>You would wear out a lot of tennis shoes before doing any damage to therudder bar because of wear.Fly BarefootSteve E.________________________________________________________________________________
Pietenpol-List: Re: holy moly
Original Posted By: walter evans
WalterWe used flour and water when we were kids pasting things into our scrapbook. It does not stick after 40 yrs.Gordon ----- Original Message -----
WalterWe used flour and water when we were kids pasting things into our scrapbook. It does not stick after 40 yrs.Gordon ----- Original Message -----
Pietenpol-List: Re: holy moly
Original Posted By: walter evans
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: holy moly>What I was trying to say was that t-88 can lay on the wood and notpenetrate.> Working the glue in the joint will help. I have pulled T-88 joints apart>and found that the glue stays one side of the joint. There will be somewood>in the glue that was ripped away, but the glue still pulled off the wood.>________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: holy moly>What I was trying to say was that t-88 can lay on the wood and notpenetrate.> Working the glue in the joint will help. I have pulled T-88 joints apart>and found that the glue stays one side of the joint. There will be somewood>in the glue that was ripped away, but the glue still pulled off the wood.>________________________________________________________________________________
Pietenpol-List: RE: holy moly
Original Posted By:> Gordon Brimhall [SMTP:arkiesair(at)surfree.com]
I don't trust all these new-fangled glues. I use Resorcinol. Airplanes have beenbuilt with it since the 1930's and they don't come apart. I've noticed thatevery time there is a new glue to try, it is always compared to Resorcinol,which is considered the standard. I don't recall ever seeing a glue that wasconsidered better in every respect than Resorcinol, so why not use it? It iseasy to mix, is inexpensive (compared to epoxy) and cleans up with water. Onlyproblem is it has no gap filling tendencies, so joints must be very close.Any place where I can't get a good tight joint, I use T-88.> -----Original Message-----
I don't trust all these new-fangled glues. I use Resorcinol. Airplanes have beenbuilt with it since the 1930's and they don't come apart. I've noticed thatevery time there is a new glue to try, it is always compared to Resorcinol,which is considered the standard. I don't recall ever seeing a glue that wasconsidered better in every respect than Resorcinol, so why not use it? It iseasy to mix, is inexpensive (compared to epoxy) and cleans up with water. Onlyproblem is it has no gap filling tendencies, so joints must be very close.Any place where I can't get a good tight joint, I use T-88.> -----Original Message-----
Pietenpol-List: Re: holy moly
Original Posted By: VAHOWDY(at)aol.com
I have used T-88, and I'm not sold on it. Out of the bottle (bottles) it is thick, like this it will fill gaps. But then ________________________________________________________________________________
I have used T-88, and I'm not sold on it. Out of the bottle (bottles) it is thick, like this it will fill gaps. But then ________________________________________________________________________________
Pietenpol-List: Re: holy moly
Original Posted By: Copinfo
What I was trying to say was that t-88 can lay on the wood and not penetrate. Working the glue in the joint will help. I have pulled T-88 joints apart and found that the glue stays one side of the joint. There will be some wood in the glue that was ripped away, but the glue still pulled off the wood. ________________________________________________________________________________
What I was trying to say was that t-88 can lay on the wood and not penetrate. Working the glue in the joint will help. I have pulled T-88 joints apart and found that the glue stays one side of the joint. There will be some wood in the glue that was ripped away, but the glue still pulled off the wood. ________________________________________________________________________________
Pietenpol-List: Re: holy moly
Original Posted By: DonanClara(at)aol.com
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: holy moly>Ken, or Walter,>> I bought the T-88, and have done some testing with it, and so far I>haven't had any glue bonds give way, only wood. It will be my glue when I>get started, but here is my question:> The T-88 says it requires reduced clamping pressure to get a good bond,>what rule of thumb is anyone using to get a good joint that doesn't havetoo>much "squeeze-out?>>Gary Meadows>>________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: holy moly>Ken, or Walter,>> I bought the T-88, and have done some testing with it, and so far I>haven't had any glue bonds give way, only wood. It will be my glue when I>get started, but here is my question:> The T-88 says it requires reduced clamping pressure to get a good bond,>what rule of thumb is anyone using to get a good joint that doesn't havetoo>much "squeeze-out?>>Gary Meadows>>________________________________________________________________________________
Pietenpol-List: Re: holy moly
Original Posted By: Gary Meadows
Try raising your shop temperature. There is an operating temp specifiedfor this stuff. Also, T-** will start to get thicker the longer it sits onthe shelf. Maybe it's time to turf the stuf fyou have and buy some more.Personally. I've never experienced this problem. There is never any glueexposed where the break ofccurs, always wood. As an aside, T-88 was the only glue that was capable of making a suitablebond to teak. I used it for the gunwales and inwales of the canoe I built.Ken.On Thu, 23 Sep 1999 VAHOWDY(at)aol.com wrote:> What I was trying to say was that t-88 can lay on the wood and not penetrate.> Working the glue in the joint will help. I have pulled T-88 joints apart > and found that the glue stays one side of the joint. There will be some wood> in the glue that was ripped away, but the glue still pulled off the wood. > Ken Beanlands B.Eng (Aerospace)Calgary, Alberta, CanadaChristavia MK 1 C-GREN________________________________________________________________________________
Try raising your shop temperature. There is an operating temp specifiedfor this stuff. Also, T-** will start to get thicker the longer it sits onthe shelf. Maybe it's time to turf the stuf fyou have and buy some more.Personally. I've never experienced this problem. There is never any glueexposed where the break ofccurs, always wood. As an aside, T-88 was the only glue that was capable of making a suitablebond to teak. I used it for the gunwales and inwales of the canoe I built.Ken.On Thu, 23 Sep 1999 VAHOWDY(at)aol.com wrote:> What I was trying to say was that t-88 can lay on the wood and not penetrate.> Working the glue in the joint will help. I have pulled T-88 joints apart > and found that the glue stays one side of the joint. There will be some wood> in the glue that was ripped away, but the glue still pulled off the wood. > Ken Beanlands B.Eng (Aerospace)Calgary, Alberta, CanadaChristavia MK 1 C-GREN________________________________________________________________________________
Pietenpol-List: Re: holy moly
Original Posted By: Ken Beanlands
Ken, or Walter, I bought the T-88, and have done some testing with it, and so far I haven't had any glue bonds give way, only wood. It will be my glue when I get started, but here is my question: The T-88 says it requires reduced clamping pressure to get a good bond, what rule of thumb is anyone using to get a good joint that doesn't have too much "squeeze-out?Gary Meadows________________________________________________________________________________
Ken, or Walter, I bought the T-88, and have done some testing with it, and so far I haven't had any glue bonds give way, only wood. It will be my glue when I get started, but here is my question: The T-88 says it requires reduced clamping pressure to get a good bond, what rule of thumb is anyone using to get a good joint that doesn't have too much "squeeze-out?Gary Meadows________________________________________________________________________________
Pietenpol-List: Re: holy moly
Original Posted By: Gary Meadows
I talked to charlie r. on the phone.(He sells ribs forthe piet) he said he doesn't clamp at all, statingthat t88 doesn't require compression for setting up.del--- Gary Meadows wrote:> Ken, or Walter,> > I bought the T-88, and have done some testing with> it, and so far I > haven't had any glue bonds give way, only wood. It> will be my glue when I > get started, but here is my question:> The T-88 says it requires reduced clamping> pressure to get a good bond, > what rule of thumb is anyone using to get a good> joint that doesn't have too > much "squeeze-out?> > Gary Meadows> >> Get Your Private, Free Email at> http://www.hotmail.com> ________________________________________________________________________________
I talked to charlie r. on the phone.(He sells ribs forthe piet) he said he doesn't clamp at all, statingthat t88 doesn't require compression for setting up.del--- Gary Meadows wrote:> Ken, or Walter,> > I bought the T-88, and have done some testing with> it, and so far I > haven't had any glue bonds give way, only wood. It> will be my glue when I > get started, but here is my question:> The T-88 says it requires reduced clamping> pressure to get a good bond, > what rule of thumb is anyone using to get a good> joint that doesn't have too > much "squeeze-out?> > Gary Meadows> >> Get Your Private, Free Email at> http://www.hotmail.com> ________________________________________________________________________________
Pietenpol-List: Re: holy moly
Original Posted By: Gordon Brimhall
Hi Del, Thanks for the reply! I had the feeling you could do that with T-88, but wasn't sure. You know, I thought about laying one on another with glue in between as a test, but just never had. I guess you'd want to at least use something to keep the pieces in positive contact, but no real pressure beyond that. As a side note, I was about to start ribs here in a couple of weeks, and read an article by Ord-Hume in the Wood building book saying that he doesn't use nails but uses staples, then prys them out once the glue has set. What do you think?________________________________________________________________________________
Hi Del, Thanks for the reply! I had the feeling you could do that with T-88, but wasn't sure. You know, I thought about laying one on another with glue in between as a test, but just never had. I guess you'd want to at least use something to keep the pieces in positive contact, but no real pressure beyond that. As a side note, I was about to start ribs here in a couple of weeks, and read an article by Ord-Hume in the Wood building book saying that he doesn't use nails but uses staples, then prys them out once the glue has set. What do you think?________________________________________________________________________________
Pietenpol-List: Re: holy moly
Original Posted By: del magsam
I'm going to make a bunch of small sandbags with the various bags I had leftover from my Home Brew Beer Supply business. 8" x 10" and 6" x 8" and justplace them on top of board I put on top of make up glued rib and let it setup instead of using 200 staples as most use, RagWing Piet I am talkingabout.One person put a big plate of alum on his and let it set overnite, made onerib per day.Gordon----- Original Message -----________________________________________________________________________________
I'm going to make a bunch of small sandbags with the various bags I had leftover from my Home Brew Beer Supply business. 8" x 10" and 6" x 8" and justplace them on top of board I put on top of make up glued rib and let it setup instead of using 200 staples as most use, RagWing Piet I am talkingabout.One person put a big plate of alum on his and let it set overnite, made onerib per day.Gordon----- Original Message -----________________________________________________________________________________
Pietenpol-List: Re: holy moly
Original Posted By: Ken Beanlands
Are you using birch plywood for joint braces? Don't forget that birch isespecially hard and should be roughed up lightly with sandpaper before gluing.Maiser(at)adena.byu.edu on 09/24/99 11:21:50 AMPlease respond to piet(at)byu.edu @ INTERNETcc:Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: holy molyHi Del, Thanks for the reply! I had the feeling you could do that with T-88, butwasn't sure. You know, I thought about laying one on another with glue inbetween as a test, but just never had. I guess you'd want to at least usesomething to keep the pieces in positive contact, but no real pressurebeyond that. As a side note, I was about to start ribs here in a couple of weeks, andread an article by Ord-Hume in the Wood building book saying that he doesn'tuse nails but uses staples, then prys them out once the glue has set. Whatdo you think?________________________________________________________________________________
Are you using birch plywood for joint braces? Don't forget that birch isespecially hard and should be roughed up lightly with sandpaper before gluing.Maiser(at)adena.byu.edu on 09/24/99 11:21:50 AMPlease respond to piet(at)byu.edu @ INTERNETcc:Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: holy molyHi Del, Thanks for the reply! I had the feeling you could do that with T-88, butwasn't sure. You know, I thought about laying one on another with glue inbetween as a test, but just never had. I guess you'd want to at least usesomething to keep the pieces in positive contact, but no real pressurebeyond that. As a side note, I was about to start ribs here in a couple of weeks, andread an article by Ord-Hume in the Wood building book saying that he doesn'tuse nails but uses staples, then prys them out once the glue has set. Whatdo you think?________________________________________________________________________________
Pietenpol-List: Re: holy moly
Original Posted By: mbell1(at)columbiaenergygroup.com
I tend to apply pressure by hand and move the part against the gluesurface slightly until I start getting some resistance. Then I apply theclamping force which is approxmately the same as what I'm holding it with.The slight movement tends to get rid of teh excess as the film between theparts thins. It also works the glue into the grain.KenOn Fri, 24 Sep 1999, Gary Meadows wrote:> Ken, or Walter,> > I bought the T-88, and have done some testing with it, and so far I > haven't had any glue bonds give way, only wood. It will be my glue when I > get started, but here is my question:> The T-88 says it requires reduced clamping pressure to get a good bond, > what rule of thumb is anyone using to get a good joint that doesn't have too> much "squeeze-out?> > Gary Meadows> > Ken Beanlands B.Eng (Aerospace)Calgary, Alberta, CanadaChristavia MK 1 C-GREN________________________________________________________________________________
I tend to apply pressure by hand and move the part against the gluesurface slightly until I start getting some resistance. Then I apply theclamping force which is approxmately the same as what I'm holding it with.The slight movement tends to get rid of teh excess as the film between theparts thins. It also works the glue into the grain.KenOn Fri, 24 Sep 1999, Gary Meadows wrote:> Ken, or Walter,> > I bought the T-88, and have done some testing with it, and so far I > haven't had any glue bonds give way, only wood. It will be my glue when I > get started, but here is my question:> The T-88 says it requires reduced clamping pressure to get a good bond, > what rule of thumb is anyone using to get a good joint that doesn't have too> much "squeeze-out?> > Gary Meadows> > Ken Beanlands B.Eng (Aerospace)Calgary, Alberta, CanadaChristavia MK 1 C-GREN________________________________________________________________________________
> Re: holy moly
Original Posted By: del magsam
That may be a good place to use the West Systems' epoxy. It's a lotthinner and soaks right into birch. KenOn Fri, 24 Sep 1999 mbell1(at)columbiaenergygroup.com wrote:> Are you using birch plywood for joint braces? Don't forget that birch is> especially hard and should be roughed up lightly with sandpaper before gluing.> > > > > > > Maiser(at)adena.byu.edu on 09/24/99 11:21:50 AM> Please respond to piet(at)byu.edu @ INTERNET> > > To: piet(at)byu.edu @ INTERNET> cc:> > Subject: Re: holy moly> > Hi Del,> > Thanks for the reply! I had the feeling you could do that with T-88, but> wasn't sure. You know, I thought about laying one on another with glue in> between as a test, but just never had. I guess you'd want to at least use> something to keep the pieces in positive contact, but no real pressure> beyond that.> > As a side note, I was about to start ribs here in a couple of weeks, and> read an article by Ord-Hume in the Wood building book saying that he doesn't> use nails but uses staples, then prys them out once the glue has set. What> do you think?> > Ken Beanlands B.Eng (Aerospace)Calgary, Alberta, CanadaChristavia MK 1 C-GREN________________________________________________________________________________
That may be a good place to use the West Systems' epoxy. It's a lotthinner and soaks right into birch. KenOn Fri, 24 Sep 1999 mbell1(at)columbiaenergygroup.com wrote:> Are you using birch plywood for joint braces? Don't forget that birch is> especially hard and should be roughed up lightly with sandpaper before gluing.> > > > > > > Maiser(at)adena.byu.edu on 09/24/99 11:21:50 AM> Please respond to piet(at)byu.edu @ INTERNET> > > To: piet(at)byu.edu @ INTERNET> cc:> > Subject: Re: holy moly> > Hi Del,> > Thanks for the reply! I had the feeling you could do that with T-88, but> wasn't sure. You know, I thought about laying one on another with glue in> between as a test, but just never had. I guess you'd want to at least use> something to keep the pieces in positive contact, but no real pressure> beyond that.> > As a side note, I was about to start ribs here in a couple of weeks, and> read an article by Ord-Hume in the Wood building book saying that he doesn't> use nails but uses staples, then prys them out once the glue has set. What> do you think?> > Ken Beanlands B.Eng (Aerospace)Calgary, Alberta, CanadaChristavia MK 1 C-GREN________________________________________________________________________________
> > Re: holy moly
Original Posted By: BARNSTMR(at)aol.com
charlie doesnt nail anything, staples do not make anysense to me if your just pulling them out. besidesalways running the risk of weakening the structurefrom splitting the wood with staples.--- Ken Beanlands wrote:> That may be a good place to use the West Systems'> epoxy. It's a lot> thinner and soaks right into birch. > > Ken> > On Fri, 24 Sep 1999 mbell1(at)columbiaenergygroup.com> wrote:> > > Are you using birch plywood for joint braces? > Don't forget that birch is> > especially hard and should be roughed up lightly> with sandpaper before gluing.> > > > > > > > > > > > > > Maiser(at)adena.byu.edu on 09/24/99 11:21:50 AM> > Please respond to piet(at)byu.edu @ INTERNET> > > > > > To: piet(at)byu.edu @ INTERNET> > cc:> > > > Subject: Re: holy moly> > > > Hi Del,> > > > Thanks for the reply! I had the feeling you> could do that with T-88, but> > wasn't sure. You know, I thought about laying one> on another with glue in> > between as a test, but just never had. I guess> you'd want to at least use> > something to keep the pieces in positive contact,> but no real pressure> > beyond that.> > > > As a side note, I was about to start ribs here> in a couple of weeks, and> > read an article by Ord-Hume in the Wood building> book saying that he doesn't> > use nails but uses staples, then prys them out> once the glue has set. What> > do you think?> > > >>> > Get Your Private, Free Email at> http://www.hotmail.com> > > > Ken Beanlands B.Eng (Aerospace)> Calgary, Alberta, Canada> Christavia MK 1 C-GREN> > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
charlie doesnt nail anything, staples do not make anysense to me if your just pulling them out. besidesalways running the risk of weakening the structurefrom splitting the wood with staples.--- Ken Beanlands wrote:> That may be a good place to use the West Systems'> epoxy. It's a lot> thinner and soaks right into birch. > > Ken> > On Fri, 24 Sep 1999 mbell1(at)columbiaenergygroup.com> wrote:> > > Are you using birch plywood for joint braces? > Don't forget that birch is> > especially hard and should be roughed up lightly> with sandpaper before gluing.> > > > > > > > > > > > > > Maiser(at)adena.byu.edu on 09/24/99 11:21:50 AM> > Please respond to piet(at)byu.edu @ INTERNET> > > > > > To: piet(at)byu.edu @ INTERNET> > cc:> > > > Subject: Re: holy moly> > > > Hi Del,> > > > Thanks for the reply! I had the feeling you> could do that with T-88, but> > wasn't sure. You know, I thought about laying one> on another with glue in> > between as a test, but just never had. I guess> you'd want to at least use> > something to keep the pieces in positive contact,> but no real pressure> > beyond that.> > > > As a side note, I was about to start ribs here> in a couple of weeks, and> > read an article by Ord-Hume in the Wood building> book saying that he doesn't> > use nails but uses staples, then prys them out> once the glue has set. What> > do you think?> > > >>> > Get Your Private, Free Email at> http://www.hotmail.com> > > > Ken Beanlands B.Eng (Aerospace)> Calgary, Alberta, Canada> Christavia MK 1 C-GREN> > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Pietenpol-List: Re: holy moly
Original Posted By: vistin(at)juno.com
In a message dated 9/24/99 11:30:59 AM Central Daylight Time, farmerdel(at)rocketmail.com writes:>DEL,Read my post titled "Stapling Gussets" for my opinion on staples. As for splitting the wood....that shouldn't happen if the moisture content of the wood is above 10 % or so....(guess that depends on the type of wood) But I am referring to Spruce, Douglas Fir, or Red cedar. Also....testing shows that 12 to 15 % moisture content is best for getting an optimum glue bond. I know T-88 users may disagree...but ...I remember testing glued wood joints in College and we proved that there is an optimum moisture content for bonding. I think after you work with wood for awhile...you will acquire a feel for this kind of thing. I think you can tell if a wood is too dry or too wet just by handling it. Read some of Bernard's comments on wood splitting and you'll see what I mean.________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 9/24/99 11:30:59 AM Central Daylight Time, farmerdel(at)rocketmail.com writes:>DEL,Read my post titled "Stapling Gussets" for my opinion on staples. As for splitting the wood....that shouldn't happen if the moisture content of the wood is above 10 % or so....(guess that depends on the type of wood) But I am referring to Spruce, Douglas Fir, or Red cedar. Also....testing shows that 12 to 15 % moisture content is best for getting an optimum glue bond. I know T-88 users may disagree...but ...I remember testing glued wood joints in College and we proved that there is an optimum moisture content for bonding. I think after you work with wood for awhile...you will acquire a feel for this kind of thing. I think you can tell if a wood is too dry or too wet just by handling it. Read some of Bernard's comments on wood splitting and you'll see what I mean.________________________________________________________________________________
Pietenpol-List: Re: holy moly
Original Posted By: fishin
del magsam wrote:> charlie doesnt nail anything, staples do not make any> sense to me if your just pulling them out. besides> always running the risk of weakening the structure> from splitting the wood with staples.> been using an office stapler layed flat on the rib gusetts, easy to> align, very small diameter staple wire, no splitting at all and a> breeze to remove after glue sets upJoeCdel magsam wrote:charlie doesnt nail anything, staples do not makeanysense to me if your just pulling them out. besidesalways running the risk of weakening the structurefrom splitting the wood with staples.been using an office stapler layed flat on the rib gusetts, easyto align, very small diameter staple wire, no splitting at all and a breezeto remove after glue sets upJoeC________________________________________________________________________________
del magsam wrote:> charlie doesnt nail anything, staples do not make any> sense to me if your just pulling them out. besides> always running the risk of weakening the structure> from splitting the wood with staples.> been using an office stapler layed flat on the rib gusetts, easy to> align, very small diameter staple wire, no splitting at all and a> breeze to remove after glue sets upJoeCdel magsam wrote:charlie doesnt nail anything, staples do not makeanysense to me if your just pulling them out. besidesalways running the risk of weakening the structurefrom splitting the wood with staples.been using an office stapler layed flat on the rib gusetts, easyto align, very small diameter staple wire, no splitting at all and a breezeto remove after glue sets upJoeC________________________________________________________________________________
Pietenpol-List: Re: holy moly
Original Posted By: Gary Meadows
Gary, My own way to work it is to try to let glue see both surfaces for afew minutes before final nailing. like for rib gussets, I put in two nailsto set in glue without squeezing out too much. after attaching all gussetsfrom left to right, THEN go left to right for final nailing, which givesthe gussets about 5 min. to absorb, before nailing.walt-----Original Message-----
Gary, My own way to work it is to try to let glue see both surfaces for afew minutes before final nailing. like for rib gussets, I put in two nailsto set in glue without squeezing out too much. after attaching all gussetsfrom left to right, THEN go left to right for final nailing, which givesthe gussets about 5 min. to absorb, before nailing.walt-----Original Message-----
Pietenpol-List: Re: holy moly
Original Posted By: Howard Wilkinson
an office stapler would be much better then aconstruction type stapler, sure enough.--- fishin wrote:> > > del magsam wrote:> > > charlie doesnt nail anything, staples do not make> any> > sense to me if your just pulling them out. besides> > always running the risk of weakening the structure> > from splitting the wood with staples.> > been using an office stapler layed flat on the rib> gusetts, easy to> > align, very small diameter staple wire, no> splitting at all and a> > breeze to remove after glue sets up> > JoeC> > ________________________________________________________________________________
an office stapler would be much better then aconstruction type stapler, sure enough.--- fishin wrote:> > > del magsam wrote:> > > charlie doesnt nail anything, staples do not make> any> > sense to me if your just pulling them out. besides> > always running the risk of weakening the structure> > from splitting the wood with staples.> > been using an office stapler layed flat on the rib> gusetts, easy to> > align, very small diameter staple wire, no> splitting at all and a> > breeze to remove after glue sets up> > JoeC> > ________________________________________________________________________________
Pietenpol-List: Re: holy moly
Original Posted By: VAHOWDY(at)aol.com
Howdy,What you're saying I've never run into. This is my second project and amcompletely satisfied with T88. Even to this day, I'll do joints that Ithink will finally be a joint that I'll be disappointed with. But in themorning I come down to a beautiful joint, with a good fillet andpenitration.Just one thing.....you do have to "butter" the ends of the rib pieces, andalso the points on the rib caps where the verticals will meet. After youdry fit the rib,,,remove all the verticals , and one by one apply the glueand fit in place. You can't just put the rib in the jig dry and pour T88over the joints like pancake syrup. It won't soak in or saturate any woodthat it is not applied to.walt-----Original Message-----
Howdy,What you're saying I've never run into. This is my second project and amcompletely satisfied with T88. Even to this day, I'll do joints that Ithink will finally be a joint that I'll be disappointed with. But in themorning I come down to a beautiful joint, with a good fillet andpenitration.Just one thing.....you do have to "butter" the ends of the rib pieces, andalso the points on the rib caps where the verticals will meet. After youdry fit the rib,,,remove all the verticals , and one by one apply the glueand fit in place. You can't just put the rib in the jig dry and pour T88over the joints like pancake syrup. It won't soak in or saturate any woodthat it is not applied to.walt-----Original Message-----
Pietenpol-List: RE: holy moly
Original Posted By: Craig Lawler
Subject: Pietenpol-List: RE: holy moly>>... So I looked for the "Elmers" on the shelf, but spotted the " yellow>furniture glue" first. It was Titebond ll. Holy moly, this is what people>are going to build a plane with? First of all if you look on the label it>says not to use below waterline. What if you get rain at a flyin and a>little puddle lays back near the sternpost of the fusela> ....>>You forget something:>>I supose that you going to use at least barnish... Remember that withthis>new generation of barnish, the wood (and Glue) is really waterproff. Well>only if you plan to build a pietsubmarine?
>>>Remember also that there are still flying wooden airplanes (80+ years old)>with Casein Glue and plain ol'barnish....>>These new generation of glues and Poliuretane (sp?) barnishes sure are>better.>>If my wooden airplane was by accident in any ocasion "under the waterline">(read sunk), even if it was built with Resorsinol or T-88 or name it...I>will not fly it again. but plain rain and moisture will be perfectlyhandled>by the Poliuretane (sp?) barnish.>>Saludos>>Gary Gower>________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Pietenpol-List: RE: holy moly>>... So I looked for the "Elmers" on the shelf, but spotted the " yellow>furniture glue" first. It was Titebond ll. Holy moly, this is what people>are going to build a plane with? First of all if you look on the label it>says not to use below waterline. What if you get rain at a flyin and a>little puddle lays back near the sternpost of the fusela> ....>>You forget something:>>I supose that you going to use at least barnish... Remember that withthis>new generation of barnish, the wood (and Glue) is really waterproff. Well>only if you plan to build a pietsubmarine?
>>>Remember also that there are still flying wooden airplanes (80+ years old)>with Casein Glue and plain ol'barnish....>>These new generation of glues and Poliuretane (sp?) barnishes sure are>better.>>If my wooden airplane was by accident in any ocasion "under the waterline">(read sunk), even if it was built with Resorsinol or T-88 or name it...I>will not fly it again. but plain rain and moisture will be perfectlyhandled>by the Poliuretane (sp?) barnish.>>Saludos>>Gary Gower>________________________________________________________________________________Pietenpol-List: RE: holy moly
Original Posted By: Gary Gower
... So I looked for the "Elmers" on the shelf, but spotted the " yellowfurniture glue" first. It was Titebond ll. Holy moly, this is what peopleare going to build a plane with? First of all if you look on the label itsays not to use below waterline. What if you get rain at a flyin and alittle puddle lays back near the sternpost of the fusela> ....You forget something:I supose that you going to use at least barnish... Remember that with thisnew generation of barnish, the wood (and Glue) is really waterproff. Wellonly if you plan to build a pietsubmarine? Remember also that there are still flying wooden airplanes (80+ years old)with Casein Glue and plain ol'barnish....These new generation of glues and Poliuretane (sp?) barnishes sure arebetter. If my wooden airplane was by accident in any ocasion "under the waterline"(read sunk), even if it was built with Resorsinol or T-88 or name it... Iwill not fly it again. but plain rain and moisture will be perfectly handledby the Poliuretane (sp?) barnish.SaludosGary Gower________________________________________________________________________________
... So I looked for the "Elmers" on the shelf, but spotted the " yellowfurniture glue" first. It was Titebond ll. Holy moly, this is what peopleare going to build a plane with? First of all if you look on the label itsays not to use below waterline. What if you get rain at a flyin and alittle puddle lays back near the sternpost of the fusela> ....You forget something:I supose that you going to use at least barnish... Remember that with thisnew generation of barnish, the wood (and Glue) is really waterproff. Wellonly if you plan to build a pietsubmarine?
Remember also that there are still flying wooden airplanes (80+ years old)with Casein Glue and plain ol'barnish....These new generation of glues and Poliuretane (sp?) barnishes sure arebetter. If my wooden airplane was by accident in any ocasion "under the waterline"(read sunk), even if it was built with Resorsinol or T-88 or name it... Iwill not fly it again. but plain rain and moisture will be perfectly handledby the Poliuretane (sp?) barnish.SaludosGary Gower________________________________________________________________________________Pietenpol-List: Re: holy moly
Original Posted By: Gary Gower
Gary,I'm not sure what Barnish is.My Point was that if you can get T88 for about the same price as Tightbondll, why wouldn't you use T88?walt evans-----Original Message-----
Gary,I'm not sure what Barnish is.My Point was that if you can get T88 for about the same price as Tightbondll, why wouldn't you use T88?walt evans-----Original Message-----