Original Posted By: VAHOWDY(at)aol.com
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Aerolite glue>I just want to be sure>i'm not hanging my _ss out on a limb with the aerolite>glue that was used in the construction of my bipe.>sincerly>shad bellShad, it aint the glue it's the gluee. Junk the project.Nothing wrong with aerolite. My Piet is all aerolite. It is flying since1988.Mike B Piet N687MB ( Mr Sam )________________________________________________________________________________
Pietenpol-List: Clamping laminated spars
Pietenpol-List: Clamping laminated spars
Original Posted By: "Lou Larsen"
You might try Mike Cuys' method of using electrical tape around the spars toput some pressure on the spars. This was shown in his very informativevideo.________________________________________________________________________________
You might try Mike Cuys' method of using electrical tape around the spars toput some pressure on the spars. This was shown in his very informativevideo.________________________________________________________________________________
Re: Pietenpol-List: clamping laminated spars
Original Posted By:
Laminating Spars:I laminated my spars for a three piece wing with a jig , using wooden wedgesfor clamping pressure and hold down strips to keep the strips aligned (andflat in the jig). I began by making a flat surface to layout and fabricate the fuselagesides, the tail feathers and othe stuff. Made my table by using metal studsand metal stud plates as used in steel framed stud walls. These members arestraight, won't warp and are cheap. I doubled them, i.e. butted two studsend to end and lapped them with a plate to make a frame about 2' x14'. Puta few 2x4 wood cross members inside and placed a surface deck made u p outof doubled 1/2" particle board ; the pieces I got happened to be 34" widex 8' long and I lapped them to gain some stiffness. This made a flat worktable about 3' x 14' and it was a flat plane surface; the table was placeon 3 sawhorses. Used sheet metal screws on the metal parts and drywallscrews on the wood and particle board parts. This makes it nice fordisassembly and reuse.For the spar jig I screwed down two 1"x3"s aligned the base strip to astretched wire. I made my spars out of Douglas fir strips cut from clearfir 2x4s, 14' long ripped into 8 strips per piece giving a strip about11/16ths by 13/16ths in cross section. I laminated thse in a progressionof twos. Laminated the 32 strips into 16 sticks of two, then made the nextset 4 sticks of four, then adding a two strip stick to get four six stripsticks and finished by adding the last 2 strip stick to get four 8 stripspars that were a little over 5" high.The process required that the jig be reset for each successive operation andthis is easy since the 1x3s were fasten ed to the deck with dry wall screws.I left the base 1x3 in place and moved the backer 1x3. Spaced the firstset up to about 1 7/8th spacing, (the thickness of two 11/16th strips and1/2' for the clamping wedges. I made a bunch of wooden wedges 2" long andabout 1/8" thick tapering to 1/2" thick.The process started with placing two of the strips side by side with thewide face up (used spring clamps to hold them while coating the faces withadhesive, ( T-88). Then mated the two glued faces and placed them in thewaxpaper lined jig. I used 30 pairs of wedges spaced about 5" apart andused a pair of waterpump pliers to press the wedges together. (This worksto loosen the wedges as well) after the initial pressure, (not too tight)I put hold down strips accross the top of the laminate sticks screwed downto the jig 1x3s with drywall screws. Put in a hold down strip, (1x2)about every foot. The went back and put the final squeeze on the wedges. Igot hairline glue lines and the spars were flat and true with out a lot ofexpense for C clamps, etc.The jig is opened up an additional 1 3/8th inch for each successive group..My rough spars were a little thicker that the desired 3/4" but that was bydesign as it allowed for the thickness planer to do its thing withoutgetting the spars too thinAll I can say is that there may be a better way to laminate spars, but thissystem worked for me.Lou Larsen(stretched fuselage, A powered with stiff gear and 21" wheels.)----- Original Message -----
Laminating Spars:I laminated my spars for a three piece wing with a jig , using wooden wedgesfor clamping pressure and hold down strips to keep the strips aligned (andflat in the jig). I began by making a flat surface to layout and fabricate the fuselagesides, the tail feathers and othe stuff. Made my table by using metal studsand metal stud plates as used in steel framed stud walls. These members arestraight, won't warp and are cheap. I doubled them, i.e. butted two studsend to end and lapped them with a plate to make a frame about 2' x14'. Puta few 2x4 wood cross members inside and placed a surface deck made u p outof doubled 1/2" particle board ; the pieces I got happened to be 34" widex 8' long and I lapped them to gain some stiffness. This made a flat worktable about 3' x 14' and it was a flat plane surface; the table was placeon 3 sawhorses. Used sheet metal screws on the metal parts and drywallscrews on the wood and particle board parts. This makes it nice fordisassembly and reuse.For the spar jig I screwed down two 1"x3"s aligned the base strip to astretched wire. I made my spars out of Douglas fir strips cut from clearfir 2x4s, 14' long ripped into 8 strips per piece giving a strip about11/16ths by 13/16ths in cross section. I laminated thse in a progressionof twos. Laminated the 32 strips into 16 sticks of two, then made the nextset 4 sticks of four, then adding a two strip stick to get four six stripsticks and finished by adding the last 2 strip stick to get four 8 stripspars that were a little over 5" high.The process required that the jig be reset for each successive operation andthis is easy since the 1x3s were fasten ed to the deck with dry wall screws.I left the base 1x3 in place and moved the backer 1x3. Spaced the firstset up to about 1 7/8th spacing, (the thickness of two 11/16th strips and1/2' for the clamping wedges. I made a bunch of wooden wedges 2" long andabout 1/8" thick tapering to 1/2" thick.The process started with placing two of the strips side by side with thewide face up (used spring clamps to hold them while coating the faces withadhesive, ( T-88). Then mated the two glued faces and placed them in thewaxpaper lined jig. I used 30 pairs of wedges spaced about 5" apart andused a pair of waterpump pliers to press the wedges together. (This worksto loosen the wedges as well) after the initial pressure, (not too tight)I put hold down strips accross the top of the laminate sticks screwed downto the jig 1x3s with drywall screws. Put in a hold down strip, (1x2)about every foot. The went back and put the final squeeze on the wedges. Igot hairline glue lines and the spars were flat and true with out a lot ofexpense for C clamps, etc.The jig is opened up an additional 1 3/8th inch for each successive group..My rough spars were a little thicker that the desired 3/4" but that was bydesign as it allowed for the thickness planer to do its thing withoutgetting the spars too thinAll I can say is that there may be a better way to laminate spars, but thissystem worked for me.Lou Larsen(stretched fuselage, A powered with stiff gear and 21" wheels.)----- Original Message -----
Pietenpol-List: clamping laminated spars
Original Posted By: shad bell
Re: Pietenpol-List: Aerolite glue
Original Posted By: "shad bell"
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Pietenpol-List: Aerolite glue
Original Posted By: JOEL CARROLL
RE: Pietenpol-List: Aerolite glue
Original Posted By: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
If a couple are coming apart,,, I hate to think what the rest will do at acouple thousand feet with all the forces up there on them.I would think that you could start over and know it's right or make sureyour house is in order and you're ok with God before taking it up.CarlPlease visit my website atwww.megsinet.net/skycarl-----Original Message-----
If a couple are coming apart,,, I hate to think what the rest will do at acouple thousand feet with all the forces up there on them.I would think that you could start over and know it's right or make sureyour house is in order and you're ok with God before taking it up.CarlPlease visit my website atwww.megsinet.net/skycarl-----Original Message-----
Re: Pietenpol-List: Aerolite glue
Original Posted By: shad bell
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Re: Pietenpol-List: clamping laminated spars
Original Posted By: "Merrill"
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: clamping laminated sparsMark, I almost let this C-clamp problem stop me from building. As you said buying 20-30 clamps I a very large cash outlay. I solved the problem by making my own (if I was to build an aircraft, surely I could make some clamps). I used 1/4 inch threaded rod for the screws and 1/2 inch rod that was cut into 1 inch lengths and then tapped. The rod ends were turned 90 deg. with a stub for use as the handle. They work a little different then the real thing, but they are cheap and they work. Howdy________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: clamping laminated sparsMark, I almost let this C-clamp problem stop me from building. As you said buying 20-30 clamps I a very large cash outlay. I solved the problem by making my own (if I was to build an aircraft, surely I could make some clamps). I used 1/4 inch threaded rod for the screws and 1/2 inch rod that was cut into 1 inch lengths and then tapped. The rod ends were turned 90 deg. with a stub for use as the handle. They work a little different then the real thing, but they are cheap and they work. Howdy________________________________________________________________________________