Original Posted By: Steve Ruse
Howdy again, Pieters;Hate to be a pest here, but this is the best place for me to find the answers I need. Anybody know what the recommended torque is for the nuts holding the exhaust stacks to the studs on the Cont. A-65?Thanks.Oscar ZunigaSan Antonio, TXmailto: taildrags(at)hotmail.comwebsite at http://www.flysquirrel.net________________________________________________________________________________Date: Wed, 06 Jul 2005 14:49:21 -0400
Pietenpol-List: A-65 exhaust studs
Re: Pietenpol-List: A-65 exhaust studs
Original Posted By: Steve Ruse
> Pietenpol-List: Cont. A-65 runup
Original Posted By: Harvey Rule
Re: Pietenpol-List: A-65 exhaust studs
Original Posted By: Rcaprd(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: A-65 exhaust studsIn a message dated 7/6/2005 10:50:07 AM Central Standard Time,taildrags(at)hotmail.com writes:Hate to be a pest here, but this is the best place for me to find theanswers I need. Anybody know what the recommended torque is for the nutsholding the exhaust stacks to the studs on the Cont. A-65?I just removed my exhaust pipes for sandblast & paint. The ContinentalOverhaul Manual calls out Torque Limits on 5/16 - 24 nuts & screws to be 180 -220in. lbs., which works out to 15 to 18.3 ft. lbs. I've never found anything=20tolast on exhaust pipes. This time I'm using VHT Flame Proof Coating (SP-101)Flat White, and supposed to be good to 1500=BA for painting exhaust pipes &headers. I bought it at the local Hot Rod Shop. It specs sand blasting, andbaking in the oven at 600=BA to 650=BA. I suggest the use of the tall brass exhaustnuts for this install. It was no problem to break them loose with 1/4" drivetools, and came off with my finger. I used the thin metal gaskets, with thebead around the big hole. A couple of small areas I noted black carbon traces,like they were leaking, but saw no evidence of leaks up against the head. There wouldn't be enough back pressure, with the short 2 into 1 pipes, for it toleak very much. Another thing I always do, when dealing with exhaust, is toplane the top of the flanges (gasket surfaces), with a long fine bastard file.You need a long enough file to reach both flanges at the same time. It showsthe high and low spots where I dress independently, then finish again withstrokes across both flanges, to be sure they are on the same plane, and nostresses are induced when the nuts are torqued. When I assembled them 2 yearsago,I coated both sides of the exhaust gaskets with 'Copper Coat', but when I tookit apart yesterday, I found no evidence of the copper coat.Chuck G.________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: A-65 exhaust studsIn a message dated 7/6/2005 10:50:07 AM Central Standard Time,taildrags(at)hotmail.com writes:Hate to be a pest here, but this is the best place for me to find theanswers I need. Anybody know what the recommended torque is for the nutsholding the exhaust stacks to the studs on the Cont. A-65?I just removed my exhaust pipes for sandblast & paint. The ContinentalOverhaul Manual calls out Torque Limits on 5/16 - 24 nuts & screws to be 180 -220in. lbs., which works out to 15 to 18.3 ft. lbs. I've never found anything=20tolast on exhaust pipes. This time I'm using VHT Flame Proof Coating (SP-101)Flat White, and supposed to be good to 1500=BA for painting exhaust pipes &headers. I bought it at the local Hot Rod Shop. It specs sand blasting, andbaking in the oven at 600=BA to 650=BA. I suggest the use of the tall brass exhaustnuts for this install. It was no problem to break them loose with 1/4" drivetools, and came off with my finger. I used the thin metal gaskets, with thebead around the big hole. A couple of small areas I noted black carbon traces,like they were leaking, but saw no evidence of leaks up against the head. There wouldn't be enough back pressure, with the short 2 into 1 pipes, for it toleak very much. Another thing I always do, when dealing with exhaust, is toplane the top of the flanges (gasket surfaces), with a long fine bastard file.You need a long enough file to reach both flanges at the same time. It showsthe high and low spots where I dress independently, then finish again withstrokes across both flanges, to be sure they are on the same plane, and nostresses are induced when the nuts are torqued. When I assembled them 2 yearsago,I coated both sides of the exhaust gaskets with 'Copper Coat', but when I tookit apart yesterday, I found no evidence of the copper coat.Chuck G.________________________________________________________________________________
Re: Pietenpol-List: Cont. A-65 runup
Original Posted By: Rcaprd(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Cont. A-65 runupIn a message dated 7/6/2005 1:52:53 PM Central Standard Time, steve(at)wotelectronics.com writes:What static RPM do you guys usually see, and with what prop? I get about2,400rpm static, and only 2,450-2,500 flat out (full throttle level flight).I have a Cont A 65, with my home built 72 X 42 prop, and I get about 1900 RPM, full power static run up (in the chalks), or on take off roll. At full power level flight, when the prop unloads, I see 2150 RPM indicated. Like I saidon a previous post, my tach reads 100 RPM too low, so those numbers are actually 2000 and 2250 respectively. The ASI indicates about 72 to 75 MPH, butit also reads about 10 MPH too low, so I'm doing somewhere close to 85 MPH, on a full power level flight run. I pull power for cruise flight between 1800 and 1900 RPM, and indicate about 65 MPH. I think fairing the gear legs helped a little. The A65's rated power is 2300 RPM, so I consider mine to be a cruise prop. I think I'm well with acceptable range.Chuck G.NX770CG________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Cont. A-65 runupIn a message dated 7/6/2005 1:52:53 PM Central Standard Time, steve(at)wotelectronics.com writes:What static RPM do you guys usually see, and with what prop? I get about2,400rpm static, and only 2,450-2,500 flat out (full throttle level flight).I have a Cont A 65, with my home built 72 X 42 prop, and I get about 1900 RPM, full power static run up (in the chalks), or on take off roll. At full power level flight, when the prop unloads, I see 2150 RPM indicated. Like I saidon a previous post, my tach reads 100 RPM too low, so those numbers are actually 2000 and 2250 respectively. The ASI indicates about 72 to 75 MPH, butit also reads about 10 MPH too low, so I'm doing somewhere close to 85 MPH, on a full power level flight run. I pull power for cruise flight between 1800 and 1900 RPM, and indicate about 65 MPH. I think fairing the gear legs helped a little. The A65's rated power is 2300 RPM, so I consider mine to be a cruise prop. I think I'm well with acceptable range.Chuck G.NX770CG________________________________________________________________________________
Pietenpol-List: A-65 exhaust studs
Original Posted By: "Oscar Zuniga"
Thanks to all who offered tips on the exhaust stacks. I was looking at the different gaskets at the Sacramento Sky Ranch website and noted that there are two different types, but Corky had the "blow proof" ones on it originally so that's what I'm going with (not the plain flat ones). I have new brass nuts to go on the studs and wanted to get the torque correct. I will also be applying VHT flat white to the stacks but NOT on the part that is inside the heat muff... my concern is to avoid adding any insulation that may reduce the heat transfer for carb heat. I realize that leaves the part inside the muff vulnerable to corrosion and will require inspection during annual, but after the carb ice incident I'd rather have all the temperature rise I can get and deal with the corrosion issue as one more inspection item.One other item of interest noted from the torque charts from Continental. They specify the use of clean 50w. aviation oil on all threads prior to torqueing and caution that their table values are not for dry torqueing. They also have some footnotes regarding lube for the spark plugs and a few other things that are good to know. My thanks to Steve Ruse!Oscar ZunigaSan Antonio, TXmailto: taildrags(at)hotmail.comwebsite at http://www.flysquirrel.net________________________________________________________________________________
Thanks to all who offered tips on the exhaust stacks. I was looking at the different gaskets at the Sacramento Sky Ranch website and noted that there are two different types, but Corky had the "blow proof" ones on it originally so that's what I'm going with (not the plain flat ones). I have new brass nuts to go on the studs and wanted to get the torque correct. I will also be applying VHT flat white to the stacks but NOT on the part that is inside the heat muff... my concern is to avoid adding any insulation that may reduce the heat transfer for carb heat. I realize that leaves the part inside the muff vulnerable to corrosion and will require inspection during annual, but after the carb ice incident I'd rather have all the temperature rise I can get and deal with the corrosion issue as one more inspection item.One other item of interest noted from the torque charts from Continental. They specify the use of clean 50w. aviation oil on all threads prior to torqueing and caution that their table values are not for dry torqueing. They also have some footnotes regarding lube for the spark plugs and a few other things that are good to know. My thanks to Steve Ruse!Oscar ZunigaSan Antonio, TXmailto: taildrags(at)hotmail.comwebsite at http://www.flysquirrel.net________________________________________________________________________________