Original Posted By: "Jack Phillips"
I have to go measure which thickness tubing I used, but either way, I had anidea for a lightweight method of beefing up a straight axle.Why couldn=92t one transform the tube into a truss by drilling a series ofholes and running some 4130 tubing, say =BC or 5/16ths diagonally through theholes and welding them where they protrude. This would add a TON ofstiffness and strength without much weight. As long as your welds werereally good, I can=92t see why this wouldn=92t work. Besides being laborintensive.Thoughts?Douwe________________________________________________________________________________
Pietenpol-List: axle bending
Re: Pietenpol-List: axle bending
Original Posted By: Douwe Blumberg
Is a slight bending of the straight axle inherently bad? I can't remember which thickness I used, but after all the welding I had it magnafluxed. And then last year I did some additional welding of those bungee "dams" that I added. After that I noticed the wheels are canted a bit inward, caused by the warping from the heat. This did not seem to affect performance at all with all those rides I gave at Brodhead last year. Any thoughts?Dan HelsperPuryear, TN-----Original Message-----
Is a slight bending of the straight axle inherently bad? I can't remember which thickness I used, but after all the welding I had it magnafluxed. And then last year I did some additional welding of those bungee "dams" that I added. After that I noticed the wheels are canted a bit inward, caused by the warping from the heat. This did not seem to affect performance at all with all those rides I gave at Brodhead last year. Any thoughts?Dan HelsperPuryear, TN-----Original Message-----
RE: Pietenpol-List: Re: axle bending
Original Posted By: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
I wish you had asked this question yesterday. I changed my bungeesyesterday as part of my annual Condition Inspection and could have easilymeasured the guide pins and guide tubes. Not so easy with the bungees inplace.As I recall, I made the guide tubes out of .045" wall tubing, welded to.090" sheet V-fitting. There is substantial slop between the tubes and theguide pins to allow for axle motion. It works well enough and I've neverhad the axle bind in the guide tubes.Jack PhillipsNX899JPSmith Mountain Lake, Virginia-----Original Message-----
I wish you had asked this question yesterday. I changed my bungeesyesterday as part of my annual Condition Inspection and could have easilymeasured the guide pins and guide tubes. Not so easy with the bungees inplace.As I recall, I made the guide tubes out of .045" wall tubing, welded to.090" sheet V-fitting. There is substantial slop between the tubes and theguide pins to allow for axle motion. It works well enough and I've neverhad the axle bind in the guide tubes.Jack PhillipsNX899JPSmith Mountain Lake, Virginia-----Original Message-----
Pietenpol-List: Re: axle bending
Original Posted By: "Chris Rusch"
Corky,Best wishes on the "whittlin'", and I fully expect to hear more about the businesslong past the 8th or 9th.Keep us posted!--------Semper Fi,Terry HandAthens, GARead this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ___Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: axle bending
Corky,Best wishes on the "whittlin'", and I fully expect to hear more about the businesslong past the 8th or 9th.Keep us posted!--------Semper Fi,Terry HandAthens, GARead this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ___Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: axle bending
Original Posted By: Craig Aho
I made my anti rotation tubes from 3/4 x .120 wall 4130, but i drilled THRU thecomplete axle and welded in the tube top and bottom. Is that how you did yours?completely thru or just welded to the outside?jack(at)bedfordlandings.c wrote:> I wish you had asked this question yesterday. I changed my bungees> yesterday as part of my annual Condition Inspection and could have easily> measured the guide pins and guide tubes. Not so easy with the bungees in> place.> > As I recall, I made the guide tubes out of .045" wall tubing, welded to> .090" sheet V-fitting. There is substantial slop between the tubes and the> guide pins to allow for axle motion. It works well enough and I've never> had the axle bind in the guide tubes.> > Jack Phillips> NX899JP> Smith Mountain Lake, Virginia> > ----------NX321LRFully AssembledTail assembly and ailerons covered and painted.Wings covered and primed, one paintedMitsubishi PoweredRead this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... __________
I made my anti rotation tubes from 3/4 x .120 wall 4130, but i drilled THRU thecomplete axle and welded in the tube top and bottom. Is that how you did yours?completely thru or just welded to the outside?jack(at)bedfordlandings.c wrote:> I wish you had asked this question yesterday. I changed my bungees> yesterday as part of my annual Condition Inspection and could have easily> measured the guide pins and guide tubes. Not so easy with the bungees in> place.> > As I recall, I made the guide tubes out of .045" wall tubing, welded to> .090" sheet V-fitting. There is substantial slop between the tubes and the> guide pins to allow for axle motion. It works well enough and I've never> had the axle bind in the guide tubes.> > Jack Phillips> NX899JP> Smith Mountain Lake, Virginia> > ----------NX321LRFully AssembledTail assembly and ailerons covered and painted.Wings covered and primed, one paintedMitsubishi PoweredRead this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... __________
> Pietenpol-List: Re: axle bending
Original Posted By:> rmdinfo(at)rmdbenders.com
I was noticing on my wood gear plan from Don Pietenpol and 1932 FGM that the axel is 12 guage wich is .109 wall so .120 is already larger. On my plan from Don he included a stickum note saying "Don't use this" I guess he was not a fan of the wood gear. I spent the morning trying to find out if I could straighten out my old Axel so I could use my old brake setup etc. but it looks like it is not at all practicle so I will put my order in for the new axel. My Vee fittings are the 16 guage per the plan which is kind of (1/16") thin. I plan to use the vertical Pin setup like so many are now using and I first saw on Mike Cuys ship. Thanks for the feedback on the pins etc. I was thinking that the receiver tube welded to the V fitting would only be as strong as the thickness of that fitting so I hope that the setup will work for me. I like the looks of the system. still deciding on the brakes allthough my wheels are setup for the 4.5" drums which seemed to work ok. I keep trying to remember what my train of thought was back 20 years ago when I started my first Air Camper because I seem to have so much more to think about with many details I dont think I considered back in the past. I just followed the plan and 2 yrs later I was completed and ended up with a nice Piet. I hope this one turns out even better. Craig > Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: axle bending
I was noticing on my wood gear plan from Don Pietenpol and 1932 FGM that the axel is 12 guage wich is .109 wall so .120 is already larger. On my plan from Don he included a stickum note saying "Don't use this" I guess he was not a fan of the wood gear. I spent the morning trying to find out if I could straighten out my old Axel so I could use my old brake setup etc. but it looks like it is not at all practicle so I will put my order in for the new axel. My Vee fittings are the 16 guage per the plan which is kind of (1/16") thin. I plan to use the vertical Pin setup like so many are now using and I first saw on Mike Cuys ship. Thanks for the feedback on the pins etc. I was thinking that the receiver tube welded to the V fitting would only be as strong as the thickness of that fitting so I hope that the setup will work for me. I like the looks of the system. still deciding on the brakes allthough my wheels are setup for the 4.5" drums which seemed to work ok. I keep trying to remember what my train of thought was back 20 years ago when I started my first Air Camper because I seem to have so much more to think about with many details I dont think I considered back in the past. I just followed the plan and 2 yrs later I was completed and ended up with a nice Piet. I hope this one turns out even better. Craig > Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: axle bending
RE: Pietenpol-List: Re: axle bending
Original Posted By: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
I drilled completely through and passed the tube through and welded top andbottomJack PhillipsNX899JPSmith Mountain lake, Virginia-----Original Message-----
I drilled completely through and passed the tube through and welded top andbottomJack PhillipsNX899JPSmith Mountain lake, Virginia-----Original Message-----
Pietenpol-List: Re: axle bending
Original Posted By: Jim Boyer
Re: Pietenpol-List: Re: axle bending
Original Posted By: Jack Phillips
Me too.Dan HelsperPuryear, TN-----Original Message-----
Me too.Dan HelsperPuryear, TN-----Original Message-----
Pietenpol-List: Re: axle bending
Original Posted By: "tools"
Wow, must have been totally out of it when I wrote that post yesterday.=C2- I am not getting more =9Csimple tape=9D from =9CAce=9D I=99m ordering more =9Cdimple tape from ACS=9D (aircraft spruce).=C2-And, even that is wrong.=C2- =9Cdimple tape=9D is not longer available (unless from sign printers, I hear but have not researched it).=C2- One can buy =9Cvortilator tape) from a number of sailplane suppliers and from Aircraft Spruce.=C2- They sell enough to do a prop for $39.=C2- It looks like =9Czig zag=9D tape and works the same as dimple tape.=C2-I hear it works, but the jury is still out until I try it.=C2- With a C-90 up front, anything I can do to save a little fuel is a good thing.=C2- I find I can still climb (one person) at 2,000 rpm and I=99ve really been enjoying chugging around the countryside at 60kts.=C2- It=99s super quiet and is getting me ready to fly formation with those Fords this July!!!=C2-Douwe________________________________________________________________________________Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: axle bending
Wow, must have been totally out of it when I wrote that post yesterday.=C2- I am not getting more =9Csimple tape=9D from =9CAce=9D I=99m ordering more =9Cdimple tape from ACS=9D (aircraft spruce).=C2-And, even that is wrong.=C2- =9Cdimple tape=9D is not longer available (unless from sign printers, I hear but have not researched it).=C2- One can buy =9Cvortilator tape) from a number of sailplane suppliers and from Aircraft Spruce.=C2- They sell enough to do a prop for $39.=C2- It looks like =9Czig zag=9D tape and works the same as dimple tape.=C2-I hear it works, but the jury is still out until I try it.=C2- With a C-90 up front, anything I can do to save a little fuel is a good thing.=C2- I find I can still climb (one person) at 2,000 rpm and I=99ve really been enjoying chugging around the countryside at 60kts.=C2- It=99s super quiet and is getting me ready to fly formation with those Fords this July!!!=C2-Douwe________________________________________________________________________________Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: axle bending
Re: Pietenpol-List: Re: axle bending
Original Posted By: Gary Boothe
I'm just a simple woodworker so I probably shouldn't be trying to engineer anythingbut just another thought. What if You were to take a piece of white oak,ash or doug fir say rectangular and with a snug fit set it into the tube verticleto help the tube resist bending, since the axels are just over time bendingor saging in the middle would that not help reinforce it.?Read this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ___Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Re: axle bending
I'm just a simple woodworker so I probably shouldn't be trying to engineer anythingbut just another thought. What if You were to take a piece of white oak,ash or doug fir say rectangular and with a snug fit set it into the tube verticleto help the tube resist bending, since the axels are just over time bendingor saging in the middle would that not help reinforce it.?Read this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ___Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Re: axle bending
Pietenpol-List: Re: axle bending
Original Posted By: "Don Emch"
I'm 20 miles WNW of Fort Dodge,IA. N6636B 65 hp Cont, Piet. Where are you located?Dennis Vetter, minimax103(at)hotmail.com
Read this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ttachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/piet ... ___Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: axle bending
I'm 20 miles WNW of Fort Dodge,IA. N6636B 65 hp Cont, Piet. Where are you located?Dennis Vetter, minimax103(at)hotmail.com
Read this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ttachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/piet ... ___Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: axle bendingPietenpol-List: Re: axle bending
Original Posted By: "tools"
Craig,I think that was fairly common back in the day on straight axle ships... to pounda piece of oak or ask into the axle tube.Don EmchNX899DERead this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ___Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: axle bending
Craig,I think that was fairly common back in the day on straight axle ships... to pounda piece of oak or ask into the axle tube.Don EmchNX899DERead this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ___Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: axle bending
Original Posted By: "Jerry Grogan"
Something to consider is that it would trap moisture in there (as nearly all woodhas some moisture content) promoting corrosion. When I disassembled the gearon the J1 Standard, there was wood inside of the anti rotation mechanism tostiffen it up, and it was pretty corroded. My guess is that the anti rotationmechanism was added in the mid '70's. The axle isn't very open to allow circulation, and it gets doused in water regularly(even dew on the grass in the evening). When I took all the gear fittings (fuse and down by the axle) off of 2RN, therewas evidence of corrosion and it's a pretty new plane, ALWAYS hangared. Even though it might take so long to cause strength problems in the metal, it probablywouldn't take long to compromise the wood itself to where it really isn'tuseful. Now, if it were replaced at every annual or two... If you were to to it, white oak is probably the best to use considering its strengthand rot resistance. Just food for thought.Read this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... __________
Something to consider is that it would trap moisture in there (as nearly all woodhas some moisture content) promoting corrosion. When I disassembled the gearon the J1 Standard, there was wood inside of the anti rotation mechanism tostiffen it up, and it was pretty corroded. My guess is that the anti rotationmechanism was added in the mid '70's. The axle isn't very open to allow circulation, and it gets doused in water regularly(even dew on the grass in the evening). When I took all the gear fittings (fuse and down by the axle) off of 2RN, therewas evidence of corrosion and it's a pretty new plane, ALWAYS hangared. Even though it might take so long to cause strength problems in the metal, it probablywouldn't take long to compromise the wood itself to where it really isn'tuseful. Now, if it were replaced at every annual or two... If you were to to it, white oak is probably the best to use considering its strengthand rot resistance. Just food for thought.Read this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... __________
> Pietenpol-List: Re: axle bending
Original Posted By:> n0kkj(at)yahoo.com
It is nice to know that the idea has some merrit and was used back in the day so I dont have to feel embaresed. I handn't thought about the moisture aspect=2C How about Teak:). I like to use wood whenever possible being a woodworker and my other aircraft project is an Emeraude which is another very nice wood aircraft. > Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: axle bending
It is nice to know that the idea has some merrit and was used back in the day so I dont have to feel embaresed. I handn't thought about the moisture aspect=2C How about Teak:). I like to use wood whenever possible being a woodworker and my other aircraft project is an Emeraude which is another very nice wood aircraft. > Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: axle bending
Original Posted By: Jim Boyer
Oh ya, I think it's got great merit. I, too, started down this path as I was awoodworker. The airplane I first started researching was a GP-4, another allwood aircraft, but then found the Piet and decided that was a better first project.Teak would work as well, but white oak is nearly as rot resistant and WAAAY cheaper(as I'm sure you know). I just think it would be a good idea to put thatsort of thing on a regular inspection cycle. After seeing the corrosion under the other metal fittings, I'm about to the pointI think airplanes should be uncovered and redone every 10 to 15 yrs anyway.Read this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ______Date: Wed, 1 May 2013 19:42:40 +0000 (UTC)
Oh ya, I think it's got great merit. I, too, started down this path as I was awoodworker. The airplane I first started researching was a GP-4, another allwood aircraft, but then found the Piet and decided that was a better first project.Teak would work as well, but white oak is nearly as rot resistant and WAAAY cheaper(as I'm sure you know). I just think it would be a good idea to put thatsort of thing on a regular inspection cycle. After seeing the corrosion under the other metal fittings, I'm about to the pointI think airplanes should be uncovered and redone every 10 to 15 yrs anyway.Read this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ______Date: Wed, 1 May 2013 19:42:40 +0000 (UTC)
Pietenpol-List: Re: axle bending
Original Posted By: "AircamperN11MS"
First off, the axle as shown in the plans should be sufficient. But the key is"as shown in the plans"; i.e. no brakes (or, more precisely, no extended axlerequired due to space needed for brakes). If the space required for the brakearrangement you choose is relatively small, just beef up the wall thicknessto 3/16", as has been successfully done by Mike Cuy and others. If your brakesystem needs more space, use the heavier wall and also get the tube heat treated,like Jack Phillips did.Shoving a piece of wood inside the axle doesn't seem to be a wise approach. Aswas mentioned, the wood will retain moisture, and almost certainly result incorrosion. And the wood will add very little in strength. Just because somethingwas an accepted practice many years ago, doesn't mean it is/was a good idea.And finally, I can't see adding a bunch of diagonal tubes being a viable option.It would be a lot of work. It would add minimal strength. All the additionalwelding will likely warp the axle. Douwe, if you feel the need to stiffenyour existing axle, you may be able to simply weld a steel bar onto the top andbottom surfaces of your current axle. Since your axle is already hidden insidea fairing, the added bars likely would not even be visible. Of course, carewould need to be taken in your welding procedure to ensure that distortionis minimized.Bill C.Read this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ___Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: axle bending
First off, the axle as shown in the plans should be sufficient. But the key is"as shown in the plans"; i.e. no brakes (or, more precisely, no extended axlerequired due to space needed for brakes). If the space required for the brakearrangement you choose is relatively small, just beef up the wall thicknessto 3/16", as has been successfully done by Mike Cuy and others. If your brakesystem needs more space, use the heavier wall and also get the tube heat treated,like Jack Phillips did.Shoving a piece of wood inside the axle doesn't seem to be a wise approach. Aswas mentioned, the wood will retain moisture, and almost certainly result incorrosion. And the wood will add very little in strength. Just because somethingwas an accepted practice many years ago, doesn't mean it is/was a good idea.And finally, I can't see adding a bunch of diagonal tubes being a viable option.It would be a lot of work. It would add minimal strength. All the additionalwelding will likely warp the axle. Douwe, if you feel the need to stiffenyour existing axle, you may be able to simply weld a steel bar onto the top andbottom surfaces of your current axle. Since your axle is already hidden insidea fairing, the added bars likely would not even be visible. Of course, carewould need to be taken in your welding procedure to ensure that distortionis minimized.Bill C.Read this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ___Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: axle bending
Original Posted By: Isablcorky(at)aol.com
Here is a pic of my planes front view. The axle is 1.5 inches by 0.125 wall andis original to the plane. It does not have anything extra in the center of it.At times I do have a little bow in the axle when loaded to gross weight. I do not have any brakes which means that the axle is full floating and can rotateshould a wheel run low on grease. Ask me how I know. It is hard on thebungee cords when that happens. My feeling is to just use the heavier wall tubeand don't worry about it. When it does bend or flex a little it add some camberto the wheels. I think that would make for a little better handling qualities.My 3 cents. (adjusted for inflation)--------Scott LiefeldFlying N11MS since March 1972Steel TubeC-85-12Wire WheelsBrodhead in 1996Read this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ttachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/piet ... __________
Here is a pic of my planes front view. The axle is 1.5 inches by 0.125 wall andis original to the plane. It does not have anything extra in the center of it.At times I do have a little bow in the axle when loaded to gross weight. I do not have any brakes which means that the axle is full floating and can rotateshould a wheel run low on grease. Ask me how I know. It is hard on thebungee cords when that happens. My feeling is to just use the heavier wall tubeand don't worry about it. When it does bend or flex a little it add some camberto the wheels. I think that would make for a little better handling qualities.My 3 cents. (adjusted for inflation)--------Scott LiefeldFlying N11MS since March 1972Steel TubeC-85-12Wire WheelsBrodhead in 1996Read this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ttachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/piet ... __________
> Pietenpol-List: Re: axle bending
Original Posted By:> Scott.liefeld(at)lacity.org
Sounds good to me=2C since I have to replace my bowed axel anyway Im going to the heavier wall. But the discussion was kind of interesting. > Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: axle bending
Sounds good to me=2C since I have to replace my bowed axel anyway Im going to the heavier wall. But the discussion was kind of interesting. > Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: axle bending
Re: Pietenpol-List: Re: axle bending
Original Posted By: helspersew(at)aol.com
Corky,When looking at my plans, I see the chord as being 60 inches. If you add the distances(6 3/4 + 1 + 27 3/4 + 1 + 11 3/4 + 11 3/4) it equals 60 inches.I don't have the full size rib drawing with me, but does it show a different sizespar than the 1 inch? Like maybe a 3/4"? That could be your missing 1/2" 1/4"less on each spar. I may be talking out my backside, but just trying to help.--------Semper Fi,Terry HandAthens, GARead this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ttachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/scre ... ___Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Re: axle bending
Corky,When looking at my plans, I see the chord as being 60 inches. If you add the distances(6 3/4 + 1 + 27 3/4 + 1 + 11 3/4 + 11 3/4) it equals 60 inches.I don't have the full size rib drawing with me, but does it show a different sizespar than the 1 inch? Like maybe a 3/4"? That could be your missing 1/2" 1/4"less on each spar. I may be talking out my backside, but just trying to help.--------Semper Fi,Terry HandAthens, GARead this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ttachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/scre ... ___Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Re: axle bending
Original Posted By: Bill Church
Bill,I hear you. All this talk about axle bending.....but a little bending (flexing) is OK. Its the "breaking" part we want to avoid. My axle is warped from all the welding. I agree that when welding in all those diagonals, warping would be difficult to avoid. But if anyone could do it, Douwe certainly could with his experience and skill.Dan HelsperPuryear, TN -----Original Message-----
Bill,I hear you. All this talk about axle bending.....but a little bending (flexing) is OK. Its the "breaking" part we want to avoid. My axle is warped from all the welding. I agree that when welding in all those diagonals, warping would be difficult to avoid. But if anyone could do it, Douwe certainly could with his experience and skill.Dan HelsperPuryear, TN -----Original Message-----
Original Posted By: shad bell
> To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com> > > Something to consider is that it would trap moisture in there (as nearly all wood has some moisture content) promoting corrosion. When I disassembled the gear on the J1 Standard=2C there was wood inside of the anti rotation mechanism to stiffen it up=2C and it was pretty corroded. My guess is that the anti rotation mechanism was added in the mid '70's. > > The axle isn't very open to allow circulation=2C and it gets doused in water regularly (even dew on the grass in the evening). > > When I took all the gear fittings (fuse and down by the axle) off of 2RN=2C there was evidence of corrosion and it's a pretty new plane=2C ALWAYS hangared. > > Even though it might take so long to cause strength problems in the metal=2C it probably wouldn't take long to compromise the wood itself to where it really isn't useful. Now=2C if it were replaced at every annual or two... > > If you were to to it=2C white oak is probably the best to use considering its strength and rot resistance. > > Just food for thought.> > > > > Read this topic online here:> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... 784#399784> > > > > > > ============================================> > > ________________________________________________________________________________Date: Wed, 1 May 2013 12:02:58 -0700 (PDT)
> To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com> > > Something to consider is that it would trap moisture in there (as nearly all wood has some moisture content) promoting corrosion. When I disassembled the gear on the J1 Standard=2C there was wood inside of the anti rotation mechanism to stiffen it up=2C and it was pretty corroded. My guess is that the anti rotation mechanism was added in the mid '70's. > > The axle isn't very open to allow circulation=2C and it gets doused in water regularly (even dew on the grass in the evening). > > When I took all the gear fittings (fuse and down by the axle) off of 2RN=2C there was evidence of corrosion and it's a pretty new plane=2C ALWAYS hangared. > > Even though it might take so long to cause strength problems in the metal=2C it probably wouldn't take long to compromise the wood itself to where it really isn't useful. Now=2C if it were replaced at every annual or two... > > If you were to to it=2C white oak is probably the best to use considering its strength and rot resistance. > > Just food for thought.> > > > > Read this topic online here:> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... 784#399784> > > > > > > ============================================> > > ________________________________________________________________________________Date: Wed, 1 May 2013 12:02:58 -0700 (PDT)
Pietenpol-List: Re: axle bending
Original Posted By: "Bill Church"
=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0AAbsolutely!! The more touching the better. =0A:-)=0A =0AClif=0A=0A After reading that post a couple =0A weeks ago about the broken gear leg=2C it seems a good thing to make it a =0A priority that the gear legs actually touch both the fuselage longerons and =0A eachother at the bottom=2C so shock isn=92t all taken up by the =0A bolts.=0A =0A =0A $.02=0A =0A Douwe=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A============0A============0A============0A============0A=0A ________________________________________________________________________________Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: axle bending
=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0AAbsolutely!! The more touching the better. =0A:-)=0A =0AClif=0A=0A After reading that post a couple =0A weeks ago about the broken gear leg=2C it seems a good thing to make it a =0A priority that the gear legs actually touch both the fuselage longerons and =0A eachother at the bottom=2C so shock isn=92t all taken up by the =0A bolts.=0A =0A =0A $.02=0A =0A Douwe=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A============0A============0A============0A============0A=0A ________________________________________________________________________________Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: axle bending